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Thread: LED Bulb Conversion (Whole Car)

  1. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tbird232ci View Post
    It's an option, but the light scatter would be similar to using HID bulbs in our housings. The best way to do it is projectors. Brian Larkin has done it on his car, and while it looks a little out of place, it works pretty damn well for a projector behind the fluted lens.
    Seek has done that too.

    Projectors are the only 'good' way to do it as HIDs and LEDs will never match the light source location as the original halogen bulb and will put out wonky light patterns. Have a link for Brian Larkin's project? I found a guy who made his own polycarbonate housings like Seek, but he was dead to the world when I looked him up.

  2. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tbird232ci View Post
    It's an option, but the light scatter would be similar to using HID bulbs in our housings. The best way to do it is projectors. Brian Larkin has done it on his car, and while it looks a little out of place, it works pretty damn well for a projector behind the fluted lens.
    I really hate that light scatter when people put HID bulbs in housings. Blinds the shit out of everyone on the road. Best bet in our case is to stick with the stock style bulbs, if you don't want to modify the light housings.

    Actually people who put LED/HID bulbs on their POS cars drove me to put an Autodim mirror in my Thunderbird. So I'm not blinded from behind at night.
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
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  3. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeremyB View Post
    Seek has done that too.

    Projectors are the only 'good' way to do it as HIDs and LEDs will never match the light source location as the original halogen bulb and will put out wonky light patterns. Have a link for Brian Larkin's project? I found a guy who made his own polycarbonate housings like Seek, but he was dead to the world when I looked him up.
    I'll have to dig through Facebook, or see if I can get him to post about it here. He is a member of the forum here but not very active. Essentially, he pulled the lens off of the headlight, used a retrofit projector and put it back together. The cutoff isn't too bad and the light output is leaps and bounds over what we have with a normal 9004 light.
    It's Gumby's fault.

  4. #74
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    Oh look!

    Sylvania has changed.suppliers for the LED bulbs.... They also look drastically different!

    20181121_160247.jpg

    Older bulbs are made in Italy. It appears the current ones are now being made in Taiwan. I'm gonna do an 1157 comparison between the two in the tail lamps...
    -- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !! -- 87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's! http://www.fquick.com/V8Demon

  5. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeremyB View Post
    Seek has done that too.

    Projectors are the only 'good' way to do it as HIDs and LEDs will never match the light source location as the original halogen bulb and will put out wonky light patterns. Have a link for Brian Larkin's project? I found a guy who made his own polycarbonate housings like Seek, but he was dead to the world when I looked him up.
    My ears are burning.

    Yeah, the projectors are still working great today. After a hiatus of nearly 5 years, about to resume tinkering on projects that were long put on hold. Just today finished sealing my modified tail lights, after having cut them open years back for the LED project. Will be nice to not worry about water getting into the clean lights in any rain or even washing the car...

    Dropping bulbs into the reflector housings will not do anything productive. I have a thread over on f150forum where I spent a week doing testing for people, to try to demonstrate why such mods are useless. You get less light on the road, and if you aim them down, you just flood the first few feet in front of the vehicle. You get no light down the road for driving anywhere close to highway speeds - somewhat like most foglights, of which on most vehicles don't normally do anything productive, even in fog. Exception - I did try a few HID products in my 2013 Volt's halogen projectors, and found one product that keeps the same beam characteristics and cutoff, but with better output. It's not common to find a good drop in bulb that works in a factory halogen projector.

    https://www.f150forum.com/f83/drop-r...r-info-318095/

    Hopefully soon I can start my single piece headlight assembly project, now that I have an AC Tig welder and have been practicing on 1/16" aluminum during 2018. Some prototyping has already been completed. The large headlight area on these cars will allow a lot of aluminum/heatsinking. Project coming soon with 5x XHP70.2 per side on lowbeam alone, through projector optics, along with more XHP70.2 in the cornering lamps and fog lights. Making the lenses will be the most difficult part, but my new headlights will also not have the beam width of the Acura TL projectors.

  6. #76
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    With regards to the difference in the the styles of 1156 Sylvania LED bulbs I cannot notice any discernable difference in light output within the tail lamp housing.


    I have a relay harness on order. It comes soldered. Something I am not to good at is using a soldering iron, yet for some reason I can solder good joints with a propane torch. Go figure.... I wanna see just how different the 9004 bulbs I currently have are with the relay harness and without.


    Other than that I have 4 bulbs left..... 3 type 89s and whatever the glove box bulb is. The 89s have the same base as an 1156 so the LED equivalent is the same. Other than that I have to find out the bulb type for the factory EQ and if it even has an LED equivalent for the lights on the adjustment levers.
    -- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !! -- 87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's! http://www.fquick.com/V8Demon

  7. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Demon View Post
    With regards to the difference in the the styles of 1156 Sylvania LED bulbs I cannot notice any discernable difference in light output within the tail lamp housing.
    OK, good to know. Those are the same ones I used in mine. I was wondering about the difference but that makes things a lot easier.


    Quote Originally Posted by V8Demon View Post
    Other than that I have 4 bulbs left..... 3 type 89s and whatever the glove box bulb is. The 89s have the same base as an 1156 so the LED equivalent is the same. Other than that I have to find out the bulb type for the factory EQ and if it even has an LED equivalent for the lights on the adjustment levers.
    Some of the oddball bulbs either won't be available at all, or won't be a name brand. I had to go to eBay for a few of them. I'm not sure about the inside of an EQ...I've never had one apart.

    But I'm happy things are going well for your conversion. Can't wait to see pix.

  8. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Demon View Post
    I have a relay harness on order. It comes soldered. Something I am not to good at is using a soldering iron, yet for some reason I can solder good joints with a propane torch.
    Properly tinned iron and flux should fix you right up. Also, using a soldering iron (station) with selectable temperature instead of the dumb always on irons makes a world of difference.

  9. #79
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    One thing's for certain..... I need to ditch the bulbs in there.


    IIRC the ones in there are lots g liges, which according to what I can find, seem to have a much warmer color temp than even stock halogens which hover around 34-3500 normally. Many of the "Super white" or bluish light halogens are simply tinted bulbs with poor light output. A glaring exception to that rule is the PIAA Xtreme White Plus. Color temp is right at 4000 whichis exemplary for a halogen and they apparently are much brighter than a standard 9004. They're stupid expensive though. 70bux for a pair of 9004s.... Not to mention what happens when you have a hotter filament; shorter bulb life....

    This attached pic exaggerates the color difference, but you get the idea. The headlamp housing is 6 years old, was NOS and unused when I installed it, and cleaned/waxed prior to the picture. If I had to guess, the color temp on this bulb is under 3k, part of which is age, another part most likely voltage drop through the stock harness and switch.

    20181129_183550_HDR~2.jpg
    -- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !! -- 87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's! http://www.fquick.com/V8Demon

  10. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Demon View Post
    With regards to the difference in the the styles of 1156 Sylvania LED bulbs I cannot notice any discernable difference in light output within the tail lamp housing.


    I have a relay harness on order. It comes soldered. Something I am not to good at is using a soldering iron, yet for some reason I can solder good joints with a propane torch. Go figure.... I wanna see just how different the 9004 bulbs I currently have are with the relay harness and without.


    Other than that I have 4 bulbs left..... 3 type 89s and whatever the glove box bulb is. The 89s have the same base as an 1156 so the LED equivalent is the same. Other than that I have to find out the bulb type for the factory EQ and if it even has an LED equivalent for the lights on the adjustment levers.
    The adjustment levers are already LED. They are rectangular LEDs.
    It's Gumby's fault.

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