Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 33

Thread: '70 F100 Short Bed Styleside

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jenks, OK
    Posts
    2,375
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)

    Default

    And on that note I ran a cross a big brake kit for the Crown Vic IFS that will be installed in the truck. A couple of the guys on the Mercury Marauder forum (https://www.mercurymarauder.net/foru...ad.php?t=94024) came up with an adapter (one of the guys machines them), a custom set of SS braided hoses (TCE Performance), and the rest of the parts come from parts houses i.e. OEM parts. I like the idea in that the calipers, pads, and rotors are readily available. So last night I emailed the guy that makes the adapters and asked if I could buy a set even though I am not a member on the forum. Once I know I can get them then the rest of the parts list is as follows:

    (2) 2007-2009 Mustang GT 500 front rotors
    (2) 1997-2004 (including the 2001-2004 Z06) front calipers with bracket
    (1) Front caliper brake pads of your choice
    (1) TCE Performance SS Braided brake lines (Mercury Marauder - Zack front only kit)

    So after reading that parts list you may infer that Zack is the guy that designed the kit and the guy that makes the adapters is Jerry. Zack looked at the $1500 Bear kit and figured out what caliper and rotor they were using and then enlisted Jerry to help him with the adapter. Todd over at TCE is on the Marauder forum quite a bit and dropped in on the 60 page thread to offer advice. About half way though the thread he and Zack got together and designed custom brake hoses for the swap which truly made it a kit.

    If I get the adapters I am going to spend the $$$ and get the EBC RK rotors (plain, no slots and not drilled...gimmicks for the street) and some of their Ultimax 2 pads. Two reasons here, one is the rotors are not made in China (just about every brand out there is now) and two is the rotors are coated to prevent corrosion so I don't have to fuss with painting them.

    I may have the outboard face of the calipers machined with F100, SVT, or something else as there are companies that provide that service but that is a long way off. Right now I am just hoping I can get the adapters so I can buy the rest as steel prices are going to go up next year (so my pipe sources tell me) and this entire kit will run about $680 right now. There are a couple of places offering discounts being that is it Christmas which will offset the core charges for the calipers.
    Last edited by Aerocoupe; 12-21-2017 at 10:40 AM.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jenks, OK
    Posts
    2,375
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)

    Default

    Snagged some pics of Jerry's conversion on his Marauder...huge difference.



    The calipers are very close to the wheel and some have had to grind the cooling fins and relocate the stick on wheel weights but these are 17" wheels. Right now the plan on the F100 is to have 18's on the front and 20's in the rear so this should be a moot point for me.



    You will notice the "MARAUDER" logo in the caliper which Jerry had done as these are Corvette C5 calipers. With my truck going pearl white, black frame and black suspension I think the calipers will be black with silver letters if I decide to do the letters.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jenks, OK
    Posts
    2,375
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)

    Default

    Found a picture of the caliper to spindle adapters which make all of this work:



    Adapter mounted to spindle:



    And with the caliper and rotor installed:


  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    10,796
    Feedback Score
    17 (100%)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Aerocoupe View Post
    I am guessing the brodozer guys are the lifted trucks with the super swampers that are never dirty? We have them here as well. They all got upset when I too the 1-1/2" factory lift blocks out of the rear of my F150. I thought it made the truck look like shit with the ass end about 4 inches higher than the front.
    Yup. Always clean trucks. If diesel they love rolling coal. Live in the suburbs/housing development. The only off-roading they do is occasionally driving on grass next to a shopping center.

    Nice to know you have them by you as well.

    BTW those are some big brakes. Should haul the truck down nicely.
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Pensacola, Florida
    Posts
    950
    Feedback Score
    8 (100%)

    Default

    Nice, my buddy has pulled his cab off frame and his doing work on it. He is using the 4.6 with a 5 speed. He has the front from a crown vic and the rear from a mark viii already installed and was driving around before pulling the cab. I will text you some pictures when I go by there.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jenks, OK
    Posts
    2,375
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)

    Default

    I was able to buy the brake adapter from the guy over on the Mercury Marauder forum so my big front brakes will be slowly purchased as funds allow.

    Ended up joining the forum due to a technical question with regards on how front end alignment is done Panther platform cars. You may wonder why the hell I would want to know this so here we go. Standard SLA (short long arm) front end geometry is a long LCA and a short UCA with the bottom of the shock/spring attached to either the LCA or the UCA and then the top of the shock/spring attached to the frame. This is a pretty typical SLA setup:


    And this is how you would shim one of the control arms (typically the UCA) to adjust camber and caster:


    The 03-09 Panthers have the shock/spring attached to the LCA and then attaches to the k-member between the mounting points of the k-member. Here is what one looks like removed from the donor car:


    So now you can see how the SLA is set up on these cars and how on this particular suspension the rear mount of the LCA is attached further back on the chassis than a typical SLA. The other thing you will notice is that with the way the shock/spring mounts to the k-member it does not allow for the shaft between the UCA mounts and thus you cannot do the typical caber/caster adjustments on the UCA. So on this suspension you do the camber adjustment through the front mount of the LCA and the camber adjustment through the rear mount of the LCA. The front mount bolt is just a bolt with a offset washer welded to it and then you put an offset keyed washer on the other end and a nut. Looks like this:


    The picture above is from SPC and they make a camber kit for these cars as they need more camber adjustment with wider wheels up front. I will be installing SPC's kits (one per side) on my truck as I plan on stuffing as much under the front fenders as I can get. Most likely an 18 x 9 wheel. They have a YouTube video on how you modify the k-member so these will work:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCen...ature=youtu.be

    And here is one for another company's camber kit that shows it a little better but they have the k-member on a bench (two parts):

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xs09So1sqpg&sns=em

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agJ1X10spDI&sns=em

    As depicted in the second picture of this post you create caster on a typical SLA by shimming the front or rear mounts of the UCA unequally which moves the upper ball joint in front of or behind the centerline of the bottom ball joint thus creating negative or positive caster. With a Panther platform car you move the rear mount of the LCA inboard or outboard to create negative or positive caster. I also learned that with wide tires on the front of these cars the optimum caster setting is 5.5 to 6.5 degrees positive caster. This makes sense as the Fox platform cars respond to this just as favorably with wide front tires. For those that do not know caster helps the steering return back to center.

    What sparked all of this was learning that a couple of the builders rotated the LCA rear mount inside the body of the mount. I could not understand why they were doing this and posed that question on the Mercury Marauder forum. I asked if the mounts were at an angle on the cars and did some digging and finally found a couple of pictures showing how they mount on the Panther platform. The LCA rear mount that is attached to the Panther frame is attached at an angle and on the inside of the frame.

    In this shot you are looking from the back of the car and obviously underneath it. The LCA rear mounts are directly across from the exit if the pre-cats.


    In this shot you are looking from the front of the car and again underneath it. Again, the LCA rear mounts are directly across from the exit of the pre-cats.


    So when you install this suspension on an F100 the LCA rear mount ends up just about directly under the frame as you can see here:


    So until the other day what I found was most were just welding them up as they contacted the frame. The very back of the rear bushing touches the frame and then they boxed the rest of it in like this:





    The problem with this is that the bushing needs to be rotated inside the housing so that the slot is parallel to the ground. Since the Panther cars mount at an angle they compensated for this by installing the bushing at that angle in the housing. This can be seen here:

    Stock:


    So the two ways I have run across to rotate the bushing in the housing are as follows:
    1) Cut the housing, rotate the bushing, and then weld the housing back up
    2) Cut those welds on either side of the housing where it is welded to the flat plate, rotate the housing, and then weld it back down

    I am going to split the housing as I can do this where there is a void in the rubber and not run the chance of overheating it. Should look like this when I am done:



    With it parallel to the ground I will have maximum adjustment on the caster. I am going to set it up with 6 degrees of caster with the LCA rear mount bolt in the middle of the slot. This is going to be a little more work than I was originally thinking but this is the right way to do it so the truck will drive right when I am done.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Bloomfield, IN
    Posts
    2,891
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)

    Default

    Awesome project man! I love those trucks. One day I'll have a 73-79 F100 to add to the stable. I learned to drive in a 78 F250.
    '88 'bird, 1-family owned, original 302 converted to HO, T-5 swap, CHE upper/lower control arms, weld-in SFC's, BBK shorty headers & O/R H-pipe, Dynomax mufflers, fox GT tailpipes, Turbo Coupe 8.8 w/3.73's, 11" front brakes, lowered, Tokico Blue shocks/struts, Chuck W shock adapters and motor mounts, 15:1 rack & PS pump, custom alum. driveshaft, chrome '93 Cobra wheels, Falken tires, 20% tint, close to 190,000 miles!


  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    8,501
    Feedback Score
    14 (100%)

    Default

    The bumpside trucks are the sex.

    Dad has a '72 F100. I've been bitching about restoring/restomodding it for years. Someday...

    I have a thing for trucks, Ford trucks, particularly. Got a '94 Flareside inbound to me right now, though it won't be nearly as wild as yours.
    '84 and '87 Mustangs
    '98 Explorer

    FORD forever!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jenks, OK
    Posts
    2,375
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)

    Default

    I got the bed back from metal work and my paint & body guy sprayed it with some self etching primer and undercoated the bottom. We got it back to the house and put the bed on the truck...holy crap now I have to find some tires to fill the wheel wells.





    Hoping to get to work on the Crown Vic IFS this weekend if the weather is as nice as they say it will be (60's).

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    8,501
    Feedback Score
    14 (100%)

    Default

    Lookin' good man!

    Not to get sideways, but what's the scoop on the car?
    '84 and '87 Mustangs
    '98 Explorer

    FORD forever!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •