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Thread: Back in a fox. 1988 Turbo Coupe. The life journal.

  1. #101
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    The under hood clean up went great. Every time I see a Teves unit I remember how cool they look, for 80's tech. Then I remember how expensive parts are for them now and they seem less appealing.

    Do you plan on eventually replacing the door moldings with regular, non TC ones, and then changing the chrome strip to a red strip?

    For headlamp polishing I've found this stuff to work great after the last 1500 grit sanding: https://www.meguiarsdirect.com/megui...ound-32oz.html It also works great for paint blemishes/scuffs. Be forewarned it leaves a lot of dust.
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aerocoupe View Post
    You probably already know this but my bet is the accessory brackets have oxidized to the point they will need to be bead blasted. You can try some wheel (mag) cleaner on them and a stiff brush to see what that does but I think they have sat so long (typically what happens when a vehicle is not driven and the grim and crud helps with the oxidation process) you are past that. I just cleaned up the '07 Crown Victoria engine cross member and the spindles for my F100 project with mag cleaner and the cross member turned out awesome but the spindles did not. They are now down at the powder coaters getting bead blasted and will be coated a satin black. I opted for the satin black over a clear coat as the control arms are also satin black. I have this posed in the "Other vehicles" section if you want to see the results on the cleaning.

    Other than that gibberish the car looks great! Cannot wait to see what your choices are suspension wise.
    Of they certainly are oxidized. I intend on spending more time on the brackets and getting the power coated, but I at least wanted them clean to where I'm not getting dirty every time I handle them. I did see your thread and was thinking about grabbing some of the wheel cleaner you used.

    Suspension will be a long process with a few odd choices at first. I have to use the stuff I have laying around first, before I spend the big money.

    Quote Originally Posted by thunderjet302 View Post
    The under hood clean up went great. Every time I see a Teves unit I remember how cool they look, for 80's tech. Then I remember how expensive parts are for them now and they seem less appealing.

    Do you plan on eventually replacing the door moldings with regular, non TC ones, and then changing the chrome strip to a red strip?

    For headlamp polishing I've found this stuff to work great after the last 1500 grit sanding: https://www.meguiarsdirect.com/megui...ound-32oz.html It also works great for paint blemishes/scuffs. Be forewarned it leaves a lot of dust.
    The Teves unit will be coming out at some point. I do love the technological advancement for the time, but it's terrible by todays standards. The pedal feel is horrible.

    I'm fairly undecided as to what I'm going to do with the door moldings and the overall appearance of the car. The paint is shot and there is some rust. I have a co-worker that just came out of a body shop that is very willing to do the rust and mud repairs. After that, I'm not sure my plan. I've considered putting LX molding on it, and then going monochromatic. I've thought about putting the LX trim and swapping the red stripe. I've also thought about leaving the door moldings off and going monochromatic. There are also options like vinyl wrapping and Plasti-Dip. I'll figure it out when I get to that point.

    So the Meguires 105 and 205 are compounds I was thinking of using. They are super popular in the detailing scene. Most of the time, the car will get clay bar, then 105, 205 and a wax or sealer. Those are products I intend on buying, aalong with a buffer.
    It's Gumby's fault.

  3. #103
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    The 105 should work great after the last wet sand (1500 then 2000). Using a foam pad it'll take out all the sanding scratches. Meguiars Ultimate Compound is pretty darn close to the 105 and will get almost the same results with the lenses. So you can use that, as it's usually easier to find than the 105 at most auto parts stores.
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

  4. #104
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    I don't have a whole lot to report. I have been taking some opportunity to drive drive the car for the most part. The weather has gotten a bit more cool, and the little IHI has been eating it up.

    About 10 minutes into one drive to work, I smelled oil and noticed some smoke out of the hood scoops. Oh well, nothing I could do about. I went to work and looked at it before I left. The entire right side of the engine block was coated in oil. My co-worker and I were looking at it, and found the valve cover gasket is the culprit. It's leaking from the front corner, and blowing back over the block. While looking at it, I found that it has a CORK gasket. I haven't seen a cork gasket used in probably 15 years now. Blew my mind. I have a Ranger gasket sitting in the garage. I just haven't felt like messing with it yet.

    I have had a head unit sitting in a bin since I parted out my red 87 however many years ago. It came in a friend's 4 runner back when we were just out of highschool, and he replaced it with a nicer one. He gave me this one, and it suited the car fairly well. It was from 1998 or so. I ordered up the harness, and sat and soldered every damn wire and used heat shrink. I also learned that premium sound cars don't ground the head unit through the harness, they ground through the case. After resolving that issue, and having some other dumb drama with the head unit, that is installed and working well. The best thing was when I turned it on, a CD started playing. It was the last CD I was listening to when I decided to pull the red bird off of the road. Brought back a tidal wave of memories and emotions.



    It didn't photograph well, but the green matches the green in the car fairly well. I'm happy with it for now.

    I've also realize that I haven't really taken pictures of the car. I haven't really felt that desire to just run around and take pictures like I used to. I did randomly decided to take a picture while I was at work.



    It makes the car look a bit nicer than it is, but I'll take it.
    It's Gumby's fault.

  5. #105
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    Did the car have Premium Sound without the EQ?
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by thunderjet302 View Post
    Did the car have Premium Sound without the EQ?
    The car did have an EQ. For some reason, I stashed a spare dash cubby in a bin with a bunch of various interior pieces. It was almost as if I planned on doing this conversion 10+ years ago.
    It's Gumby's fault.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tbird232ci View Post
    The car did have an EQ. For some reason, I stashed a spare dash cubby in a bin with a bunch of various interior pieces. It was almost as if I planned on doing this conversion 10+ years ago.
    I ended up wiring a modern Bluetooth/CD head unit into the stock Premium Sound system so the EQ would function, because it looks cool....

    Only issue is I still run the stock amp (but with modern Polk speakers, 6.5" in the door, 3.5" in the dash, and 6"X9" in the rear deck). It sounds ok but I really want to upgrade to a modern amp for some more punch.
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by thunderjet302 View Post
    I ended up wiring a modern Bluetooth/CD head unit into the stock Premium Sound system so the EQ would function, because it looks cool....

    Only issue is I still run the stock amp (but with modern Polk speakers, 6.5" in the door, 3.5" in the dash, and 6"X9" in the rear deck). It sounds ok but I really want to upgrade to a modern amp for some more punch.
    I intend on putting some gauges in place of the EQ, so it had to go. I may end up putting some aftermarket speakers in it at some point. I haven't been too concerned. I drive the car once a week on average.

    I haven't done much in the way of progress. I did get an odd bit of desire to mess around with the front control arms I have. I spoke with Jack Hidley on another forum, and he informed me that the control arms that I picked up were not Maximum Motorsports, but a product of Granatelli. Anyone who has been around the scene a while knows that Granatelli likes to rip off designs, have them made overseas, and sell them at a cheap enough price to entice people. There are threads upon threads of failures and complaints. Luckily for me, I haven't found anyone who has had failures with these particular control arms. Jack is pretty confident that their Delrin bushings will fit in these arms.

    So there are a few tack welds holding the ball joint in. I used a pencil grinder and ground the welds out. A few smacks with a hammer and the ball joint slid out. I'm not the happiest with that, but there is no reason that it won't work properly. I really hoped to not have to tack the new ball joint in.
    It's Gumby's fault.

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