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Thread: 87 "coug" resto winter project

  1. #81
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    not too bad,, It appears worse than what it could be.

    so here are a few progress pics with fiberglass

    I had to peck the surfaces low to come back in with fiberglass and plan in some degree of a thin layer of bondo.

    the last picture is looking into the pointy out part that as a hole in it.
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  2. #82
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    here is some touch up I did with fiber to fill the passenger and driver drainage up near the back window
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  3. #83
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    Have fun. Body work is my least favorite thing to do. Next to suspension work.
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

  4. #84
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    I don't mind it,,
    basically when I find an area of concern, blast off the rust then protect the metal, it makes me feel good knowing "I saved it" ~ for a little while more.

    Taking things in small manageable chunks helps a lot, that way you make progress on small pieces that add up.

  5. #85
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    progress on the tail section

    first layer of bondo,, back with a second coat and should be good enough to blend with the rest of the car paint
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  6. #86
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    sub frames started
    47 3/4'' long per side
    steel is 1/8'' thick, sized 1'' x 2''

    passing through the front floor pan with 1/2'' carriage bolts w/ silicone on the inside and completely through the frame ,qty 2 connections up front per side

    passing through the rear sub frame with 1/2'' carriage bolts and through the over lapping sub frames to connectors on the rear, qty 3 in the rear per side

    this sub frame inserts into the front frame about 12'' or so and lays under the rear frame directly underneath the 2 conveniently provided 3'' spaced square holes I plan to use for the rear connection point,

    the angle of the bend is 175deg even
    this layout does not obstruct the Ebrake cable either.

    this will come together over the next week or so.
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  7. #87
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    oh yeah,, and the trunk is re-silicone treated to all disturbed areas.
    I need to use up a second tube on areas I think the factory neglected and improve the drain holes inside the trunk along the rear lower qtr panels.

  8. #88
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    I'd weld those SFC's if I were you guys...if a welder was available.

    Think it was Jerry (daminc) that notched his floor pans, ran his through the cuts, welded it all up, and hid it with carpet afterward. Put a bend in the tube, it's going to weaken it, no?

    But then for just a street driven car, it's probably not that big of a deal, and removable if you ever want or need to.
    '84 and '87 Mustangs
    '98 Explorer

    FORD forever!

  9. #89
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    thought up a different plan,, welding is going to happen, it will be easier to do it that way with this new plan
    the bend was required to dodge the floor pan,

    also the front frames are not the same distance apart as the rear frames.
    the front is wider apart than the rears, I would have assumed the opposite would be true but its not.
    the rear frames are about 1'' inboard more than its respective front frame.

    interesting the things you notice when you do other things that cause you to notice them.

  10. #90
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    there will be a very very wide triangle steel plate on each side of the bent area to brace that bend

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