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Thread: 87 "coug" resto winter project

  1. #401
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    size wont matter but 19gal is one,, then 22gal was another.

    i was able to replace my old 19gal tank with the 22gal and the original straps worked fine.
    the 22gal is taller.

    the fuel sending unit wont care much about how deep your tank is,, the wire to the float can accomodate a farily deep tank and from that point its a matter of bending the float wire to get it graduated properly.

    the original sender is designed good but, has its issues. It does have a boat load of more resistive graduations than the Summit unit but, ohms is ohms and voltage drop is voltage drop, it wont matter, your analog guage will work out fine with the summit unit.

    if anyone wants to buy that summit unit but doesnt feel comfortable with the modification, i can do the mod no charge, you just need to have it shipped to me, then cover shipping to you when im done.

  2. #402
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    i couldnt stop, i had to solve an access issue ive had trouble with in the past on our cars OEM stock fuel presure regulator.

    here i am using a stock adjustable regulator but moved all the mounting hardware to the top so its easy to get to.

    i can provide a template if there is interest from others.
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  3. #403
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    Does that regulator have the vacuum nipple on it?

  4. #404
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  5. #405
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    Are you sure you want to use that on an EFI engine?

    The vacuum control adjusts the fuel-rail pressure based on the amount of vacuum.
    The objective is to keep the difference in pressure between the fuel-rail and the manifold the same.

    The EEC controls the amount of fuel by varying how long it keeps the injector open.
    If the pressure difference stays the same, you get the same amount of squirt per millisecond of time.

  6. #406
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    if you have clips that are for thicker guage metal, you would not need the adaptor.

    this fpr is for the mock up, vac one going on now.

    I only have one 3 hole mount vac type FPR. since you have to drill out the threads in the fpr to pass hardware through, i used an FPR i would not need.

  7. #407
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    I'm not quite clear on how you're mounting the speed nuts in this situation.
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

  8. #408
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    clips (flat side facing the bottom of the fpr mount pad) slip on the metal u shaped bracket i made.

    now you drop in your screws from the top.

    i am redoing this again, stand by.... i want to use the 94 version FPR since it has only two mounting bolts.
    the one mounting bolt closest to the upper intake is still very hard to get to even in this design.

    on the explorer design there is a rear and front mounting bolt. I want to use our 3 bolt fuel rail but use a two bolt FPR for even more ease of access.

  9. #409
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    so i changed things.
    Using our stock style fuel rail, i was able to settle on a 94 fuel pressure regulator which only requires two points of hardware.

    I took a long skinny bolt that probably came from a large wood wire spool and shaped it to something similar to a "U" bolt.
    The shape is following the profile of the bottom of the FPR fuel rail mounting pad somewhat using a spare old fuel rail to mock up.

    I taped threads on each end and test fitted it.
    the shape i have somewhat causes you to tighten but the homemade mounting bracket itself gets in a bind and forces the FPR down as you tighten the top.
    The pic shows that it "appears there is a lot of slack in the elbows i made , these elbows serve as a "springyness" type effort always applied. Its good and tight now.

    got the intake on and took a shot of access to the FPR which will be super easy. The newer fuel rails solve this problem of too many man hours to change out an FPR, so , I feel like its justifiable to solve it on our cars as well.

    also, the 94 FPR solves another problem with the location of the mounting hardware. the FPR mount itself puts the mounting holes further away from the cylindrical base of the FPR housing itself to allow for tools to drop in more easily for R&R.

    our stock FPRs hardware come in from the bottom via allen head screws and the removal causes you to have to touch so many other things not having to do with the FPR, that being said, this should be something easy to change out now. Chance just has to remember this is an explorer FPR and not a stock unit. if for some reason he ends up getting the stock style FPR with 3 mounting holes, he's not screwed because it will also be downward compatible, he just needs mounting screws.
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    Last edited by jcassity; 03-17-2018 at 09:16 AM.

  10. #410
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