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Thread: My 85 TBird

  1. #121
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    I was going to measure the Maximum Motorsports strut tower brace I have on my 93 Coupe but it does not pass over the top of the intake. Rather it pushed forward from the strut towers a couple of inches and then goes in front of the intake and across the top of the distributor but towards the back of the cap.

    Could you rework it to be more like what they install on the Cameros? By running the bar to the back of the motor it may give you more clearance and be easier to work on things but I am just guessing here.

    Camero Strut Tower Brace.jpg

    Darren

  2. #122
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    Could you rework it to be more like what they install on the Cameros? By running the bar to the back of the motor it may give you more clearance and be easier to work on things but I am just guessing here.

    Attachment 35711

    Darren
    That's not a bad idea. I held one of my conduit test runs in place and it has potential. If in the end what I am doing doesn't work I will have to give this route a try.

    I am not ready to give up on what I have just yet though. I found a few posts of guys with newer mustangs running about 3/8" clearance between their intake cover and the strut tower brace. Couple of them say that it does touch under hard acceleration, they can just see where it rubs. That being said, there is a difference between a intake cover hitting and the case of the blower. It also seems that most that have installed polyurethane motor mounts claim that it will raise the motor at least 1/2", so that's not going to work either. I went ahead and marked the tube 7/8" above the blower, cut it out and welded it up. This looks like plenty of clearance, tempted to weld in another 1/8" strip. I have no idea how much this weakens the tube, but it still seems plenty stout. When it's all said and done I will have to use some clay and check the clearance after a good launch or two.

    Filler metal is same thickness as the tube





  3. #123
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    If the shock towers ever push in towards each other it may kink it but I say in your case it's worth a shot. If it was me and my no welding ass then I would persue the other option just because it would take me a week to get my buddy to weld up another one plus he doesn't work for free. He doesn't charge me full boat but it just sucks I cannot weld. Anyhow, give it a shot and see what happens. Maybe don't paint it until it proves out?

    Darren

  4. #124
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    Aerocoupe


    If the shock towers ever push in towards each other it may kink it but I say in your case it's worth a shot. If it was me and my no welding ass then I would persue the other option just because it would take me a week to get my buddy to weld up another one plus he doesn't work for free. He doesn't charge me full boat but it just sucks I cannot weld. Anyhow, give it a shot and see what happens. Maybe don't paint it until it proves out?

    Darren
    I am fairly confident that it won't kink. Have been over at the corner carvers site reading up on some of their opinions on how much force, or lack of force, is actually put on the strut tower brace. There is also some good info on the fox body rear suspension over there that is a good read. Here is what Jack Hidley had posted about the strut tower brace.

    I can't give out numbers, but I can tell you what the general deflections are like.

    The most extreme strut tower deflection occurs under hard braking. The strut towers move towards the firewall. There is some deflection outwards, but not much. Most people seem to get overly concerned about STBs keeping the camber from changing dynamically. We've seen no evidence that they have any positive effect on this.

    From a handling standpoint, I think the main benefits are this: When the strut towers move rearwards or outwards, the toe changes quite a bit. This is going to occur primarily under braking or trail braking, times when you want a stable front end. Is the difference going to drop your lap times 0.5 seconds? I seriously doubt it, but good handling has as much to do with predictability as it does with grip.

    From an NVH standpoint, there is definitely an improvement as the center of the firewall is triangulated to the strut towers, which reduces cowl shake. In my opinion, the car also becomes more response during high rates of steering yaw.

    Obviously, all of these comments only apply to an STB design that is good enough to actually brace the nodes that it is attached to. I've used STBs that had no effect because they weren't well designed.

    I know there are plenty of people on this board that are skeptical. For them, I have one piece of evidence that I think is too difficult to refute. Why would Ford add a $20 part (STB) to the SN95 Mustang if it had no positive benefit to the car? If it didn't have some significant positive benefit, Ford would view this as throwing away $20 of profit in each Mustang made. Why did they stop putting them on? I don't know, but my guess is someone did a cost/benefit analysis where the increased build and warranty cost of having to work around the STB was weighed against the increased sales volume of Mustangs due to the improved driving experience, and the STB lost. I'm intentionally making this comparison as simple as possible.
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    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support
    Almost finished fabricating, just a few more welds and some more clean up.




  5. #125
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    With Jack's 0.02 I would say your design is good to go. After reading what he said and thinking of how the towers would want to move under hard cornering and braking it makes sense. Always learning something new is a great thing!

    I like the gussets for the firewall to shock tower struts. How do the struts attach to the firewall? The Maximum brace on my Coupe uses a piece of pipe welded perpendicularly to the struts and a large diameter bolt passes through them and bolts it to the factory tabs on the firewall.

    Anyhow, good looking brace man!

    Darren

  6. #126
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    Thanks Darren

    If MM offered a STB for this application I would have certainly purchased it. I probably have 12 hours in this and it's still not quite done.

    It is attached to the firewall at the pinch weld with a 1/2" bolt at that factory tab location. I used a 1/2" bolt because that's what fit nicely thru the hole in that tab. I used a press and just flattened the tube. I looked at many photos of the MM bar while building mine and did notice the perpendicular pipe at that location, but took the easy way out.

  7. #127
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    Spent the last couple of evenings and most of Sat making a air intake box. The front and the side are both open. After painting I will put on some sort of rubber edging and maybe a heat barrier on the inside.





    Had to rework the rear lower corner to clear the ac tube

  8. #128
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    Got around to pulling the motor back out this weekend. At the top of the list was the steering shaft and header issues. So I cut into the header tube some more and bent it in thinking that it would be more than enough. Reinstalled the motor and it still touched. Motor came back out and decided that the tube was already restricted too much to go any further. Ended up rerouting the tube to the other side of the steering shaft. This better work.

    Crushed tube moved in more than 1/4", still needed at least that much more. Would have ended up less than half the original diameter.


    Tacked into place, going to reinstall and check for issues before fully welding

  9. #129
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    Nice work on the air box and headers. May I suggest some Lizard skin thermal barrier on the inside of the box, that way you can paint the outside to match.


    86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
    16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo
    17’ Peterbilt 389 600hp 1850ftlb Trq 18spd



    “Heavy Metal Mistress”

  10. #130
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    1BadBird

    Nice work on the air box and headers. May I suggest some Lizard skin thermal barrier on the inside of the box, that way you can paint the outside to match.
    Thanks. Was thinking about a heat barrier on the inside, will have to check into the Lizard skin, never heard of it.

    Did you get back up north yet for that Bird? I am gaining on ya. lol.

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