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Thread: DIY stuff

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Gap Mills WV 24941
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    Default DIY stuff

    UPDATED 31dec2016
    if any questions call 304 772 3411

    Treasure box of factory Brochures~american cars - thanks softtouch~~!
    Various forum topics i feel are important and useful for troubleshooting or parts locating

    fuel pump
    255 lph Ford Focus SVT pump is what you need and it drops right in.

    Various Mods by Tom Renzo..... THE RENZO FILES

    affordable *****WAY BETTER THAN stock bolt on brake parts replacement - thanks V8Demon
    Get a set of 11 inch spindles, followed by this.....
    thread is here>

    I have that very kit on my front end minus the master cylinder. It uses the 73 mm calipers as opposed to the fox Mustang's 60's. I have 10 inch drums out back. Personally I'd use a master that has a reservoir and low fluid switch. You could always call SSBC and see what they would sell the kit without the master for....

    Brake booster replacement stuff - thanks KitzKat & V8Demon
    kitzkat=It sounds like your current master cylinder is a bit wore out
    If you plan to swap it out I would also consider swapping in a 93 cobra brake booster, it will give you that extra braking power you need

    You can pick one up for about $100 from most places. You will need a 2 port to 3 port line addapter setup. I know you're quite resourceful and could most likely make your own if needed. MM sells a setup as well.

    Cardone apparently carries a remanufactured version, however you would need to supply the reservoir. The reservoir carries a different part #, but I THINK you can use one from a standard fox Cougar/T-bird/Stang.

    Dorman makes one as well. I believe it's new. It DOES come with the MC. Part # M390125
    Best price I can find is Summit.

    $60 isn't bad at all.

    Brake line mod !~ a must do for corrosion control and long life

    2.3L build and all kinds of neat little tricks

    Explorer code 13 solved, with a surprising but simple ending.... your average Mech would never find this problem.

    The throttle body with a riveting outcome!!!!&highlight=

    Stuff I have linked

    Re-Chrome plasic stuff with these guys - thanks Vinnie!!!

    The amazing Spark plug wire thread, forever change your perspective on plug wire quality ~thanks Seek!

    GT40 or otherwise good headers ~thanks thunderjet302
    You need these:
    Ran them with GT40P heads and I'm still running them with the Edelbrock heads I have now. Nice quality and won't rot out like other headers.

    Ignition module relocation

    speedo speed sensor drive gear calculator ~ thanks aerocoupe~

    Moon Roof information, pages from shop manual , all you need to know , thread about doing a new seal. ~ by ChristmasGT, Jcassity & StenholmEngineering

    Restoration parts for your bird / coug and remember to use the stang as your base search for harder parts to find

    Sunroof / moon roof seal replacement diy with pictures and gasket resource ~ thanks christmasGT!
    the instructions:
    The seal / gaset resource

    EEC computer resources!!

    Control Arm Bushing relacement
    this includes a home made spring compressor that worked really great

    Control arm bushing part numbers for replacements from Napa with inner & outter diameters

    Fog Lamps
    83-86 fox came with marchall lamps
    87-88 fox came with Hella
    link to parent company that makes the Hella fog lamps still available today~still pricey

    Mass Air Meter compatability with other existnig vehicles to your fox ~thanks thunderjet302~!!!!
    thunderjet302~~Besides the stock Mustang 55mm units the following 70mm units will work with an A9P. Before I got my 73mm C&L MAF and 24lb injectors I used a 70mm MAF from a 1994 Lincoln Town Car. You need the MAF sensor from one of the Following Ford vehicles:

    List of EEC-IV Processors for MAF Conversion

    1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
    1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
    1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
    1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
    1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A

    1985 5.0 CFI info ~ thanks Softtouch!

    seat cover and removal of covers shop manual pages

    Instrument Cluster, do your analog guages Lie? Integrated Voltage Regulator
    with analog guages / idiot lights and electronic speedo or with full analog cluster
    another IVR thread

    oil pan drain plug repair ideas

    ABS troubleshooting ~ thanks Chuck Warren

    199mph electronic speedo modification- by bondocougar

    Mileage correction electronic speedo-by bondocougar resources and confirmed by Thefoeyouknow

    Lift point upgrade, ever had someone lift your car wrong?!!!&highlight=

    center of molding mod, repair the gold, red or chrome look

    Heater core change so its always an easy job **FROM NOW ON

    Relay adds to remove heat from headlamp and ignition switch

    results of my headlamp modification

    HIGH BEAM *with * low beams on modification ~just an easy jumper wire. ((applicable to those with auto lamps only))

    headlamp rework and remirror the insides, clear coat the outter lense

    Headlamp HID stuff > thanks THEFOEYOUKNOW
    HID mod> Thanks TbirdX3

    Convert your not so accurate amp meter to a volt meter easily

    Cool down that big resistor on the back of your analog instrument cluster.
    This also applies to those with digital clusters except the resistor is smaller.

    Pull this thing out and throw it in the garbage (5.0 engines only)

    EEC types and probably the only resource you need to figure out what computer you need!!

    door armrest repair

    Window getting off its track? why is this? here is what we found

    where the water flows, rear wheel well inexpensive mod to prevent rear frame rust

    Leaky trunk? stuff getting wet?

    door pocket repair

    Need a new electrical connector?

    Fuel sending unit (analog and digital cluster)

    Electronic Climate Control PM – thanks to “tr guy79”

    Casting numbers resource= by TurboCoupe5.0

    Seat swap info
    The Fox Stang,earlier Escorts,Fox Birds and Cougars....they all bolt in,but the tracks have to come from the Cats and Birds. SN-95 Mustang seats will also bolt to the Tbird/Cougar seat tracks.

    Vent Visors and Smoke Headlamp covers > thanks 88turbo!!
    83-86 smoke
    83-86 clear
    87-88 smoke
    also vent visors!!!!

    Fan Clutch vs Electric fan study> thanks SEEK

    replacement severe duty fan clutch >>>>> thanks V8Demon
    Wanna upgrade on the cheap without hunting for an SSP?

    Hayden part #2783 or Imperial part #215130. It's a "severe duty" unit. They're spec'd for a 1991 Dodge Dakota 4WD with the 5.2 V8. Advance auto carries the Imperial brand. Both Imperial and Hayden are the same company.
    Should run under $60......

    Low fuel warning layout

    Heater Core coolant RESTRICTOR inside the feed line

    Power Antenna

    TV Cable adjustment (throttle valve) , aka> kick down cable, transmission kicker cable, passing gear cable ect.
    Thanks V8Demon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Seat and cover sources from the Pony

    Trunk lid struts < yep you heard me right

    Very good VSS (vehicle speed sensor) thread with respect to a HO Mark7 EEC

    TFI / stator troubleshooting

    speed sensor gear source (at the transmission tailshaft)

    Door Lock actuator source

    Fuel Injector Indentification post #28

    headlamp resources
    cougs & bird headlamps match up with 89>94 linc continental, per Vinnie- he doesnt see linc headlamps as dull as coug or birds
    NEW HEADLAMP Assembly resource (tbird only) _thanks V8Demon

    OEM linc cont equal for
    This is a Pair of Lincoln Continental 1989-1994 or Mercury Cougar 1987-88 Headlamp housing units. Application: 88-94 Lincoln Continental
    87-88 Mercury Cougar
    Ford Part # E80Y-13007-A and E80Y-13007-B
    OEM List Price: $190.00 EACH
    This is the lens housing only, NO mounting plate or bulb and socket.

    Other active resources for HEAD LAMPs ~ thanks Kafer 79!!

    The RARE 83/84 full electronic instrument cluster by lumpycheesman

    Transmission fluid, what to use?

    Vaccuum diagram on your 5.0 fan shroud (including belt routing alternatives)

    Torque Converter conversation. very informative

    BATTERY draining over night (how to find the drain)

    NEED a shop manual? with all the wiring diagrams? (thanks mwitkowski!!!)
    or one for free...

    WHAT MOTOR OIL ??? for the best amount of ZDDP (zink) to protect your engine and cam.
    Rotella and Amsoil for the win! THANKS to dw85745, V8 Demon ,Turbo 88 and Amsoil dealer Turbot-bird

    Much information on various EVTM pages / sensors / Vac layout and lots of goodies THANKS 88 Blackbird 5.0!!!
    lots of actual wire harness info including mustangs, bronco ect.

    Headlamp lense cleaning (yellow to clear again!!) thanks Cougar5.0!!!!
    1988-93 Continentals use the same headlamps as 87/88 cougs> thanks watchdevil

    1988 EVTM by "thefoeyouknow"

    Full blown manual including front/rear covers and color schematics.

    1986 EVTM by "trinom"

    Various sensors and understanding how they work (THANKS ISPD!!)

    Mileage change to zero on analoge speedo by "masterblaster"

    Fuse panel for the Ford Thunderbird or Mercury Cougar 1983-1987

    Smog Bypass 5.0L "SHORT BELT"
    77’’ belt install on stock 5.0 with smog bypass

    Power Door Locks

    Great resource for headlamps and lense body parts (thanks JermemyB and V8demon)

    EATC wiring diagrams along with code 88 and 02

    Duraspark wiring info

    Base dash cluster with digi speedo and Full digi cluster wiring

    EEC wiring 5.0L SEFI

    Blower motor relay modification to take heat off the selector switch and the speed control switch.
    *be sure to read post 24 about our factory switches ~thanks tom renzon~!!

    Blower motor troubleshooting Blower has HIGH speed only and wiring diagram

    Blower motor troubleshooting and wiring diagram

    Various rear end info,, thanks Jim Miller , JeromeyB and ChuckW

    Engine Codes, pulling codes and how to do it.

    Radio ect wiring diagrams

    Cruise Control troubleshooting (my personal experience)

    Cruise Control Problems

    Guages / indicators fuel pump , temp, oil, low fuel , brake

    Power Seats

    3g alternator upgrade 3.8, 5.0, 2.3

    please read this if you own a 2.3 and consider a 3g swap "death of a tbird

    Auto Lamp info

    Rear end 7.5 and 8.8 change out (this thread covers it all!!!)

    2.3 Turbo Starting circuit

    5.0 Starting circuit

    Power seats

    Electric fan with relay and toggle switch

    MasterBlaster’s neat crap link

    EECIV self test connector and info

    Main light switch info

    Headlamp wiring

    Wiper system

    Illuminated Entry

    Multifunction switch continuity test

    Turn Signal / Hazard lamps

    Power windows

    __________________________________________________ _


    interesting quote from Thunderchicken indicating you can never get rid of your car even if you sell it.

    "Fox Birds and Cougars are like herpes. You can never get them totally out of your system. No matter how long you go without showing any symptoms, they will flare up again at some point"


    What ho EEC options are there by the code on the lable? By -infamouspa
    Electronic Climate Control PM – thanks to “tr guy79”
    87-88 bird differences- turbocoupe5.0
    Ignition switch defects
    BALL JOINTS done without a press..
    3g alternator upgrade 3.8/5.0 only..
    Is the 5.0 a roller engine or not
    302 intake differences MUST READ!!
    fuel sending unit info
    Blower Motor HVAC only runs on HIGH
    Keyless Entry tid bit
    EATC or ATC codes and troubleshooting
    Web based resources
    Squeeks, find em quickly
    Diagnostic testing with codes 3 step method with 2 and 3 digit codes
    drive shaft compatability
    Distributor check and reset
    Power Window troubleshooting
    Fuel pump testing (intermittant or no pump sound)
    Fuel pump, Want an external one?
    Head gasket tid bits
    Door weather striping
    head gasket repair
    valve cover repair
    Cruise control slip ring test
    Instant test light
    Injector balance test
    Idle control motor (ISC adn idle tracking switch check) 3.8 and some 5.0 engines
    fuel pres test
    EGR/emissions solenoids
    EGR test and EVP sensor test
    ECT sensor test
    smog pump delete and some other goodies
    Coolant Temp sensor (2wire)
    Trip minder conversion
    Fuel injection configuration Batch vs Bank fire
    trottle body cleaning (cfi)
    fuel injector cleaning
    timing chain slack measure
    Dash cluster removal
    tps test throttle position sensor
    leak down tester
    speedo mod (beyond 85mph)
    Digital Speedo Troubleshooting
    Tach/Multi guage diagnostic
    O2 sensor check
    Map sensor check
    No Spark
    No spark, TFI CONN check
    Coil Check
    stator check
    fuel injector id
    Spindal wear and tear
    Camshaft engineering info
    Torque converters
    Rack/pininon removeal and tid bits
    Tie rod end inspection and inner tie rod end adjustment (adjustment in the knuckle also)
    Ball joint replacement
    Tailshaft bushing check and replacement (including the quick replacement By TurboCoupe50 ,this is cool!)
    Checking the fuel pump relay (in/out of car test)
    misc speedo gear info
    309/406/427 tid bits
    misc engine info (various cubic inch blocks and specs)
    misc casting number info

    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    mass air eec identification ~ Thanks Aerocoupe~~~!!!!!!!!!!
    I am pretty sure this list is complete but if any corrections are needed let me know and I will revise. I scoured several Mustang sites and several tuner sites and finally started seeing enough of the same thing here and there that I feel comfortable with publishing the list. I am not saying it is 100% correct but it is as far as I know.

    Manual Transmisstion EEC-IV's:
    A9L - 88-92 5.0 Mustang
    A9M - 89-93 5.0 Mustang
    D3D1 - 89-93 5.0 Mustang
    S0Z - 89-93 5.0 Mustang
    A3M - 93 5.0 Mustang
    A3M1 - 93 5.0 Mustang
    A3M2 - 93 5.0 Mustang

    Automatic Transmission EEC IV's:
    A9P - 89-92 5.0 Mustang
    A9T - 89-93 5.0 Mustang
    C3W - 93 5.0 Mustang
    C3W1 - 93 5.0 Mustang

    California Mustang EEC-IV's:
    A9S - 88-93 5.0 Mustang
    8LF - 88-93 5.0 Mustang
    8LD - 88-93 5.0 Mustang

    Cobra Mustang EEC-IV:
    X3Z - 93 5.0 Mustang (24lb injectors with OEM calibrated MAF)

    With that I would strong caution that the California EEC be not used unless you are going to use an editor as they have some inherent programming in them to deal with CA's emissions laws. The same goes for the Cobra's EEC as it was specifically meant for that car unless you can come up with the matching OEM MAF and 24lb/hr injectors.

    Under the manual transmission list you will see the A3M family and under the Auto list you will see the C3W family which show 93 only. This is due to them being the replacement EEC offered by the dealerships. So for example, if you would have brought in a 1991 5.0 Mustang with a T-5 and the A9L EEC was fried the Ford dealer would have most likely replaced it with an A3M processor.

    I did this as I see a few guys going MAF and it seems like everyone thinks that the only processors out there are the A9L and A9P and those that have them want a mint for them. We still should not be paying over $100 for a working unit and yes they can be found for this on the Mustang forums. I typically have much better luck on the "local" Mustang forums than on the "national" ones like the Corral as those get jumped on really fast.

    __________________________________________________ ____________________________
    What ho EEC options are there by the code on the lable? By -infamouspa

    Hmmm..I am positive i bought it from a Fox Body mustang parts dealer..On cool cats main website..Go to ? Um never mind..Here it is
    EEC-IV 5.0 HO Computer
    Here's the brains of it all, literally—the stock Mustang 5.0 computer. You should be able to find one at a salvage yard, swap meet or online for a reasonable price. Beginning in 1987 Ford began using a calibration code on each computer, with the code stamped on the top. For speed density, these are the computers that you can use (all listed for automatic transmissions):
    ■DA1 (1987-88 Mustang)
    ■DB1 (1987-88 Mustang)
    ■DX3 (1987 Mark VII)
    ■VL2 (1987 Mark VII)
    ■DY3 (1988 Mark VII)
    ■D9S (1988 Mark VII)

    Electronic Climate Control PM – thanks to “tr guy79”
    To fix the lighting.

    Remove dash fascia (varies by model)
    Remove 4 screws securing EATC module
    Unplug 3 plugs from back (One is on the side for Rear Defrost)
    Remove (2) 1/4" bolts from defrost plug
    Remove (4) Phillips screws from housing. Two in bottom rear, Two in back side of the front lip
    Slide rear housing off of EATC module

    This is where things vary... If you'd like, just remove the two bulbs and replace (194 I think)

    If you dont want to risk breaking the bayonet mount, and/or want to clean it while its out, read on.

    Remove (5) black Phillips head screws, holding circuit board to the front panel
    If you are JUST replacing the bulbs, pull them out and replace

    If you want to clean the buttons, remove the (2) Phillips screws holding the light bar, and then tip the face over and the buttons will fall out.

    While you have everything apart, if any of your buttons are getting hard work, try gently rubbing an eyeglasses slotted screw driver between the rectangular contacts, and the dimple that they connect with. You want to scrape any build up off of the dimple and metal contacts without damaging it. I have also used the end of a round tooth pick. You actually have to be pretty darn rough with it to break the metal contacts off of the board.

    If anyone wants this done, but doesnt want to deal with it, or is worried about breaking something, pull you module, and ship it to me with $20 and return postage... I will fully clean, and replace lighting.

    (I actually just did that all from memory...)


    PS... Make sure you put your rear defrost switch back in the right way, or you will be really confused when you try to use it, and "ON" is towards the bottom (Squiggly arrows point up)

    __________________________________________________ __
    87-88 bird differences- turbocoupe5.0
    The '87 uses a Ford alt while the '88 uses a Hitachi alt... The 5 speed computers are different, on the factory setup, the '87 only has full boost in 1st & 2nd... The trim pieces on the inside door handle pulls are different, 88's have some plastic chromed trim, the '87 are all interior color... EATC control buttons are labeled slightly differently, but that's all '87 to '88 models... The engine identifier code in the VIN, switched from "W" in '87 to "T" in '88... Lastly the '87s all had metal trim around the back window, early '88s built prior to about about mid Nov '87, have the metal as well...
    __________________________________________________ ____
    Ignition switch defects

    Ford stated the problem with the '88-'92 switches was the contacts inside were so closely spaced, the the grease could conduct electricity between the contacts and catch fire(electricity + resistance = heat)... This is why they sometimes burn in the middle of the night, for no apparent reason... The problem started occurring when the switches were only a few years old and the grease had been subject to the switch arcing when turned through its positions... The '87-earlier switches had a larger spacing between contacts that was wide enough to supposedly prevent the "arc across" issue... The newer switches went back to a larger contact spacing...

    The new switches are identical to the old ones. The only difference would be the part number stamped on the switch - the original switch would have a part number that starts with "E", while the new one would have a part number that starts with "F".

    You won't see any exterior signs of problems unless the switch has actually burned (I had one burn a hole right through the side). The problem with the switches is in the contacts (plates) inside the switch. They wear over time and the copper filings that wear off them builds up between the plates, causing shorts. At the same time the wearing plates make poor contact with the slider (the thing that moves when you turn the switch on), and poor contact causes heat.

    Regardless whether your current switch is an E (old) or F (new), if you're having symptoms of a bad switch, replace it. Don't cheap out with a used one, get a new one.

    As for what problems to look for when a switch fails, you've already experienced one of the early symptoms. Another common symptom is an engine that starts but the heater, gauges and turn signals don't work. Basically, any time you have multiple systems fail at the same time (such as heater, turn signals and gauges) it's usually the switch.

    There is nothing you can do to prevent the problem altogether, aside from rewiring the "power distribution" circuits that feed the accessories in the car (which I have done in my car, but it is not a job for a novice). A new switch still has the inherent flaw, but it should still last many years before failing again.
    BALL JOINTS done without a press
    Remove Balljoint
    -loosen lug nuts
    -jack up car on sub frame
    -insert jack stand in place of jack
    -remove wheel,caliper,rotor
    -remove tie rod end (loosen nut till nut is flush with tie rod end stud, beat on nut till tie rod end pops out, remove nut all the way and swing tie rod out of the way.
    -rotate strut to access balljoint nut
    -loosen balljoint nut leaving nut on by a two or three threads
    -Beat on nut with hand sledge
    -control arm will pop down be stopped by nut.
    -jack up control arm from the side about 1/2'' or so
    -insert jack stand on the outter most part of control arm (sort of use the top hook part of jack stand to grab the outter round part of jack stand
    -lower control arm onto jack stand
    -remove nut on ball joint
    -lift spindal/strut assembly up and out of the way
    **all control arm presure is now on the jack stand
    -beat on ball joint until it pops out.

    Install Balljoint
    -do not install zerk fitting yet
    -place balljoint in hole and tap into place getting it centered lined up. dont be a panty wuss, just a few good hard strikes on opposite sides alternating will get it started. just feel and look at the "ball joint stop lip" keeping it from getting cantered one way or the other.
    -jack up side of control arm taking presure off jack stand
    -relocate jack stand to side of control arm and lower
    -center block of wood with small / thick metal shim under ball joint.
    -lower arm till ball joint bottom makes contact with shim only when jack is removed.
    -using hand sledge, beat on outter most part of control arm. you are beating the arm down over the ball joint.
    -inspect to see progres and repeat above process.
    -you will see the ball joint "stop lip" gap decreasing as it seats.
    -once satisfied the ball joint is in, you might have a 1/16'' gap between the control arm and the ball joint "stop lip".
    -install ball joint boot making sure it snaps all the way around
    -grab spindal assembly and lift up and set on ball joint stud.
    -install nut and tighten
    -remove wood block
    -beat on bottom of ball joint a couple more times
    -check ball joint nut again
    -install zerk fitting and grease till you feel/see the boot swell
    -the rest is reverse order on the rotor,caliper and tie rod end.
    -remember to debur tie rod end stud / nut and test fit tie rod end nut prior to putting it on.

    3g alternator upgrade step by step (3.8 and 5.0 only)
    -96 ford Taurus for voltage regulator or brush kit.
    At this point you have a 3g alt and have made it fit as well as trim work done to the mounting ect.
    Cut off the connector that has the wh/bk and two bk/or leads leaving 2'' of slack incase you mess up.
    Add a connector to the end of the wht/bk lead and hook that up to the sense part of the alt.
    Cut and add a ring lug to the end of the y/wht wire and connect to alt output
    Remove yellow wire from the battery side of the starter relay.
    Cut off the two headlamp harness leads (they have fuse links) that splice into the yellow side of the splice.
    Connect the headlamp wires up to the starter relay on the battery side via a couple or one ring lug.
    You now should be holding a harness that has two black/org and one yellow wire, keep it for spare parts.
    Connect and ring lug a 6awg or better flex power cable from the alt output to the battery side of the starter relay.
    Plug in the small "D" shaped connector with the Grn, Wht and yel wires. The green wire remained the same.

    Is the 5.0 a roller engine or not??

    pull a push rod out
    a roller 5.0 engine will have 6.27" pushrods
    a non roller will have 6.9" pushrods
    >>>> turbocoupe50
    302 intake differences (thank you user name "jim Miller"
    first off, visit this site with pics included.

    The way to identify the vast majority of lower intakes is to look at the rear driver’s side flange and find the cast in name of the supplier. You will find names such as SAC, SAC 1, SAC 2, SAC 3, SAC 4, ALCAN, and CAE

    . The SAC casting are sand mold castings which have a rough sand finish and use only one mold per intake. The CAE and ALCAN lower intakes are investment cast which re-uses the mold and results in a smoother finish on the intake with less core shift. The ALCAN has a distinctive wire mesh pattern in the top flange valleys (see above and below photos).

    When ported properly to a stock replacement gasket size the SAC, ALCAN, or CAE intakes will flow over 200cfm average:

    There is another supplier of lower intake to Ford and I still do not know what model cars Ford installed these intakes on from the factory. The casting mark is not on the back driver’s side flange like all the others. If you turn these intakes over and look at the bottom of the cooling water crossover passage, you will find an “M 3” or "M 2" cast into the bottom of the passage. See the picture. The part number of this intake is RF-E6SE-9K461-D2A with the D2A indicating this intake. ALCANs and CAEs have D3A and the SACs have D5A. Knowing these numbers can make finding the intakes much easier in the junk yard as the part number is on top the cooling water passage at the front of the intake.

    The significance of these various intakes is in their potential for porting. The #1, #5, #2, #3, #6 and #7 runners tend to get thin on the short side (back of the “knee” of the curve) and if you’re not careful, you can break through the casting on the top exposed surface of the runner while porting. So, the more material that is cast into the exposed top of the runner, the less chance you have of breaking through the casting. Of course you can TIG weld a puddle of aluminum in the area to avoid breaking through, but you loose the 100% stock look of the intake. Granted it is not easy to see the welds if you don’t get carried away but it is detectable upon inspection.
    If you want the best lower intake to port for a stock intake application, you need to find one of the M3 castings. Their runner cross section at the head flange is smaller and more restricted than the other 5.0 lower intakes, but they have much more meat in the casting for porting. This is easily seen when you look at a runner such as the #5 runner where it meets the head flange. See the picture of a SAC, ALCAN and M3 intake casting.

    The SAC intakes have the least amount of material, the ALCAN and CAE have more, and the M 3 intake has the most. The M3 has enough material to produce a 1250 size cross section at the head flange without having to weld the top of the runner. It holds potential to produce the best flow un-welded. Happy Hunting!

    Fuel sending unit info

    Conventional "analog cluster"
    87 Evtm page 127 or 129 shows
    Empty - resistance - 60 to 86 ohms
    Full - resistance - 8 to 12 ohms

    Fully Electronic cluster
    87 shop manual 33-05-23 troubleshooting step TJ6 shows
    Empty- resistance-9-12ohms
    Full-high resistance - 154-160ohms

    88 turbo was able to verify his fuel guage was working properly. Just unplug the gray two wire connector "C491" under the package shelf accessable in the trunk. The two wires are yellow/white and a black. Insert a 10 ohm resistor in tehplug crossing the yellow/white and black wire. Make sure you have jumpered the fuel guage side of the wiring harness with this 10ohm resistor. Turn on your key and the needle should peg showing a full tank. This test was performed on a thunderbird turbo version. I wouldnt think it would be different for 3.8 or 5.0 engines but one never knows.

    lay on your back under the tank
    look to the right
    find a two wire harness
    one wire is yellow / white
    the other is likely black.
    this should be the sender harness

    grab harness and follow its path up
    it should be going up and finally under your package shelf in the trunk
    package shelf-in trunk up near speakers

    get in trunk
    look for a connector with yellow white wire and a black
    unhook connector
    one end goes to your dash guage
    the other goes to the sender

    disconnect sender connector
    connect red meter lead to the yellow white
    connect black meter lead directly to the metal tank***
    do not deviate from the above two steps or reading may be wrong
    set meter to resistance and read
    jot down that number you get
    add 5gal of gas
    read sender
    jot down that number

    if there is a change then the sender is assumed to be good.

    To test the guage, insert a paper clip in the connector (C491)
    This connector is the other end you disconnected leading to the guage
    turn on key
    gas needle will peg if its good
    gas needle will peg if its a conventional cluster
    gas needle will go to empty if its a digital cluster sender

    go to my diy link below for details.
    go to my electrical tech sticky "1987 evtm" page 129 for wiring diagram.
    post your results

    You can define what sender you have based on your readings as well as determin if it works.

    I have often thought that if one puts a digital cluster sender in a conventional dash car, the leads on the guage can be flipped there to compensate for the tank circuit,,,,,,,,,,(you getting this daminc?)
    Blower Motor HVAC only runs on HIGH
    **warning, after this repair, do not touch internal parts, BURN HAZARD***
    Remove the glove box
    locate the resistor mounted in the air box
    It will have one connector and is mounted by two screws
    pull it out and stare at it real close
    there will be small springs mounted to clips
    These springs are the resistors which limit fan speed
    There will be another tiny tiny device that looks like a electronics part
    This would be a fuse and you will remove it now
    Insert in a section of 30awg wire or smaller in place of the fuse
    This thin section of wire will act as the "new" fuse
    Test fan
    all speeds should work
    When debris gets built up inside the fan causing it to be "heavy", the fuse will blow again.

    Keyless Entry tid bit
    Pushing 7,8 and 9,0 together signals the "Lock" function according to user billyF17.

    EATC or ATC codes and troubleshooting

    ATC Codes
    possible of codes 1-15, code 88 is system passes test

    Code trouble code 2 displayed
    **assume first off that your Floor Panel is jammed with debris from buildup ect which may prevent the door from moving freely and cause this code.
    **we are going to bypass the EATC system in the following steps
    1 Disconnect the two identical 14 pin conn's at rear of ATC
    2 Turn Ign switch to Run
    J1= (or conn C124) pass side control assembly, pin 11 should be blank, pin 1 should be BR/LG
    J2= (or conn C126) driver side control assembly, pin 12 should be blank, pin 1 should be LB/RD

    **verify you have a good ground on J2 pin 4 via continuity check from vehicle chassis to the conn.

    3 Supply yourself with two jumper wires and perfrom the two tests.
    *caution, you are going to supply Direct battery voltage to the Floor panel via pin J2-8 to test that it moves. Make sure you have power on this pin. The door should move when the J2-4 is made which is ground.

    4 jumper J1-6(pink) to J2-8(+bat LB/Pk AND J1-9(wh/y) to J2-4(bk)
    *******The book says to do this test quickly, as in no more than one second or you may burn something up.
    If door swings fully in one direction the proceed to next step by reversing the polarity to swing door in opposite direction

    5 jumper J1-9 to J2-8 AND J1-6 to J2-4.
    if door swings opposite driection fully, proceed on.

    Resistance check of Floor Panel sensor **J1 only***
    the sensor is nothing more than a variable resistor with three legs.
    Pin 4 is one side of the resistor, pin 5 is the other side of the resistor, pin 13 is the moving center tap.

    6 total resistance of sensor at J1 pins 4 to 5 should be about 500-600ohms

    7 This step is kinda tricky and really depends on which position your door is in at this moment in time, especially if there is debris in the duct work that prevents the door from moving fully.
    anyway, resistance from J1 pins 13(R/lg) to 4(BK/W) should be 70-550ohms
    Resistance from J1 pins 13(R/lg) to 5(LG/O) should be 200-500 ohms.

    8 Here is what i would do if you can manually move the door with your hand or something. Treat this sensor like it were a throttle position sensor.
    from J1 pins 13 to 5 with an ohm meter, measure resistance and manually move the door slowly watching the resistance scale increase and decrease smoothly.

    from J1 pins 13 to 4 with an ohm meter, measure resistance and manually move the door slowly watching the resistance scale increase and decrease smoothly.

    Squeeks, find em quickly
    get a couple cans of wd40 and toss them in the car with you
    plan out a decent drive that you know for a fact will produce the squeeks you hear
    before you take off, spray down on suspension piece part in the area you hear the noise
    go for a drive, if the problem is still there, stop the car and spray a new area or connection
    when the problem goes away, you just located your squeek.

    Web based resources
    **my favorite>>

    Diagnostic testing with codes 3 step method

    **For more detailed info and other options to pulling codes, visit the Tech library at Scroll down on the left and click on EEC-IV Diagnostics under the "computer" section.
    To pull codes, locate your diagnostic connectors usually on the driver side engine bay.
    There are two connectors, one large female one has 6 pins sort of triangle shaped. 4 pins along the bottom row and 2 on the top row. Count these pins by looking into the connector and counting each row left to right.
    The second connector will be a single wire female plug as well located near the 6 pin female plug.

    Below will be instructions on how to use a jumper wire to connect the "sig rtn" lead to the "sti". Here is where you would use a paper clip to make this jumper. The SIG RTN connetion is on the large connector , top row , right hand pin. (top row has two pins). The "STI" conneciton is the single wire lead near the diagnostic large connector. Read below and install the jumper when told to.

    Memory codes are problems that the computer has noticed in the past. If for example there was a loose wire to a solenoid that only lost contact while driving but was making contact while testing the system there would be NO HARD FAULT CODE. The code would show up IN MEMORY. The same would happen for a sensor that only went out of range occasionally. Memory codes come out AFTER the separator pulse.

    NOTE: The computer will erase the memory after a certain number of engine re-starts if the problem does not repeat itself. The number of re-starts varies from 20 to 80 depending on the year of the vehicle. The later models keep memory longer.

    Clearing Codes
    These codes are kept in memory for 40 warm up cycles. To clear the codes for purposes of testing or confirming repair, perform the code reading procedure. When the fault codes begin to be displayed, de-activate the test by either disconnecting the jumper wire or releasing the test button on the hand scanner. Stopping the test during code transmission will erase the continuous memory. Do not disconnect the negative battery cable to clear the codes; the keep alive memory will be cleared and a new code (19) will be stored for loss of PCM power.

    Below will mention using a test light instead of the check engine light during the instructions you will read. If you would like to be up near the engine and pull the codes then hook up the jumper wire when instructed and as described above. NOW, hook up a professional or riged up test light from the positive batter terminal to the large test connector , bottom row 2nd pin (STO pin) counting left to right looking into the plug. When you follow the steps below, the test light will strobe codes and how to decode them will follow below. I have used a 12dc buzzer i got out of an old microwave that gives me an audible tone. This makes it easier to focus on the paperwork end of the task so im not looking back and forth at a light and paper second guessing myself.

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>START HERE
    STEP 1
    Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Method OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT METHOD

    The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on the dash (Engine Light) can be used to retrieve the stored codes. This method does not allow for any system investigation. This should only be used in the field where quick checks are needed. Follow the directions previously given for the scan tool procedure. To activate the tests, use a jumper wire to connect the signal return (SIG RTN) pin on the diagnostic connector to the Self-Test Input (STI) connector. The self test input (STI) line is the separate wire and connector with or near the diagnostic connector. Codes are transmitted with a pause between flashes. Code 32 would be sent as 3-flashes, a pause and then 2-flashes. A slightly longer pause separates the codes. The only way to repeat the code is to recycle the system. The Continuous Memory Codes are separated from the other codes by 6-seconds, a flash and then another 6-second delay. Compare the 2-digit and 3-digit Diagnostic Codes with the appropriate chart.

    STEP 2

    NOTE: On 4.9L trucks with a manual transmission hold the clutch pedal in during this test.
    On Diesel engine trucks hold the throttle to the floor during this test.

    1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.
    2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual).
    3. Hook up light and jumper (or a tester if you have one). Turn key to ON (do not start engine).
    4. Fast Codes are output (ignore fast light flashes).
    NOTE: Unhook self test input jumper (or tester if used) at any time during code output to erase memory.
    5. Read hard faults.
    6. Separator Pulse.
    7. Read memory codes.
    8. See code explanations and check components as necessary.
    Use FIRST CODE OUTPUT and retest after any repairs are made.

    STEP 3

    1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.
    2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual).
    3. Hook up light and jumper (or tester if you have one).
    4. Make sure vehicle is safe to run and start engine.
    5. Engine I.D. should be output.
    6. Step on brake and turn steering wheel 1/4 turn. If the vehicle has an overdrive cancel switch, push it.
    7. If a "Goose" pulse is received, move throttle quickly 1/2 way down and release.
    8. Fast Codes are output (ignore).
    9. Read codes.
    10. See code explanations and check components as necessary. Use FIRST CODE OUTPUT and retest after any repairs are made.

    2 digit Code Definition

    11 System checks OK
    12 Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC
    13 (O) ISC did not respond properly (extends to touch throttle then retracts for KOEO) - ISC
    (R) Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high)
    (M) ISC sticking, open ITS circuit or TP sticking
    14 Ignition pickup was erratic - Ignition Systems
    E4OD Transmission diesel RPM sensor - Diesel RPM sensor
    15 (O) No Keep Alive Memory power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (Memory Test Failure)
    (M) KAM (pin 1) was interrupted (was battery disconnected ?)
    16 1.9L & 2.5L - Throttle stop set too high - IDLE or Idle Set Procedures
    2.3L - RPM's too low - IDLE
    (O) Electronic ignition - IDM circuit fault - Ignition Systems
    17 1.9L & 2.5L - Throttle stop set too low - IDLE
    18 (R) Check base timing & advance function - Timing Tests
    (M) Ignition TACH signal erratic - Ignition Systems
    19 (O) No Vehicle Power (pins 37 + 57) or bad PCM VPWR Diagnosis
    (R) Erratic idle during test (reset throttle & retest) - Idle Set Procedures
    Electronic ignition Cylinder ID sensor/circuit problem - Ignition Systems
    21 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
    22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range - MAP
    23 Throttle sensor out of range or throttle set too high - TPS
    24 Intake Air Temperature(ACT) (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range - IAT VAT
    25 Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS
    26 Mass Air Flow (MAF) or Vane Air Flow (VAF) out of range - MAF VAF
    Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range - Transmissions
    27 Vehicle Speed Sensor problem - VSS
    28 Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range - VAT
    2.3L w/Electronic Ignition - Cyl ID, IDM low or right coil pack failure - Ignition Systems
    29 Vehicle Speed Sensor problem - VSS
    EVP is for vehicles equipped with EGR solenoid(s), with or without an EVP sensor
    EVR is for vehicles equipped with an EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) and an EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor
    PFE is for vehicles with Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) sensor and and an EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR)
    If you don't know what type of system you have, go to the EVP heading, which is the first one.
    There are pictures under the different headings to help you identify the system.
    31 EVP - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was out of range - EVP
    EVR - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was low - EVR
    PFE - (O, R, M) PFE signal is/was low - PFE
    32 EVP - (R) EGR not responding properly during test - EVP
    EVR - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was low - EVR
    PFE - (R, M) PFE shows low pressure, EGR not seating or memory, not seating intermittently - PFE
    33 ALL - (O, M) EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently - EVP EVR PFE
    34 EVP - (R) EGR did not respond properly during test - EVP
    EVR - (O, R, M) EVP sensor is/was high - EVR
    PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor is/was out of range - PFE
    35 EVP - (R) Engine RPM's too low to test EGR system - EVP
    EVR - (O, R, M) EVP sensor signal is/was high - EVR
    PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor signal is/was high - PFE
    38 Idle Tracking Switch signal was intermittent - ISC
    39 Transmission Torque Converter clutch not engaging - Transmissions
    41 (R) System lean - Fuel control
    (M) System was lean for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching) - Fuel control
    42 (R) System rich - Fuel control
    (M) System was rich for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching) - Fuel control
    43 (R) HO2S sensor not reading (run at 2000 rpm's for 2 minutes and retest - check for HO2S switching)
    (M) Was lean at WOT for 3 seconds or more - Fuel control
    44 AIR system inoperative - Air Injection
    45 AIR not Diverting (AIRD) - Air Injection
    Electronic Ignition - coil primary circuit failure - Ignition Systems
    46 AIR Bypass (AIRB) not working - Air Injection
    Electronic Ignition - primary circuit failure coil 2 - Ignition Systems
    47 Low flow unmetered air (check for small vacuum leaks, injector o'rings, gaskets etc.)
    E4OD transmission 4x4 switch/circuit problem - Transmissions
    48 High flow unmetered air (check for large vacuum leak, inlet hoses etc.)
    Electronic Ignition - coil primary circuit failure - Ignition Systems
    49 Electronic Ignition - spout signal circuit problem - Ignition Systems
    Transmission 1/2 shift problem - Transmissions
    51 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor signal is/was too high - ECT
    52 Power Steering Pressure Switch/circuit open - PSP
    (R) Did you turn wheel during test ?
    53 Throttle Position sensor too high - TPS
    54 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) signal high - IAT VAT
    55 No or low (under 7.5 V) Key Power to PCM pin 5
    56 Vane Air Flow (VAF) or Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor high - VAF MAF
    Transmission Oil Temperature sensor too high - Transmissions
    57 Intermittent in Park/Neutral/ Switch or Neutral Pressure switch circuit - PNP or Transmissions
    1990 Scorpio - Octane jumper installed (information only code - to inform you if it is installed or not)
    58 Idle Tracking Switch (ITS) signal problem ISC
    Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range or open - VAT
    59 AXOD 4/3 circuit fault - Transmissions
    3.0L SHO - Low speed fuel pump circuit problem - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    Transmission 2/3 shift problem - Transmissions
    1990 Scorpio - Idle jumper installed (information only code - to inform you if it is installed or not)
    61 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is or was too low - ECT
    62 AXOD (KOEO only) 3/2 circuit short to ground - Transmissions
    AXOD (KOEO AND KOER) 4/3 circuit failure - Transmissions
    E4OD excessive converter clutch slippage - Transmissions
    63 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) signal too low TPS
    64 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) signal low or grounded - IAT VAT
    65 Check intermittent HO2S (signal or ground) - Fuel Control
    (R) E4OD truck - cycle OD cancel switch after engine ID is received - Transmissions
    1984 3.8L ONLY - O, M Battery voltage high (check for electrical system overcharging)
    66 Vane Air Flow (VAF) or Mass Air Flow (MAF) signal low - VAF MAF
    Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) signal low (possibly grounded) - Transmissions
    67 Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP
    Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit - Transmissions
    (M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault - PNP
    68 Idle Tracking Switch (ITS) circuit (possibly grounded) - ISC
    Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range or grounded - VAT
    3.8L AXOD -Transmission Temperature Switch (TTS) open - Transmissions
    Electronic Transmission - Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor was overheated - Transmissions
    69 AXOD transmission (O) 3/2 switch closed (possible short circuit) - Transmissions
    AXOD (M) 3/2 switch open (poss short to power) - Transmissions
    E4OD 3/4 shift problem - Transmissions
    70 (M) 3.8L AXOD - Data link to instrument cluster fault. Service any other EEC codes, erase memory and retest.
    If code is still present refer to instrument cluster diagnosis manual.
    71 (M) 1.9L TBI, 2.3L TBI, 2.5L TBI - ITS signal was grounded when throttle should have been opening ITS - ISC
    ISC motor problem or Idle Tracking Switch (ITS) signal wire shorted to ground - ISC
    (M) 1.9L MFI - PCM re-initialized. Possible electrical noise, case ground or intermittent VPWR problem - VPWR Diagnosis
    (M) 3.8L AXOD - Data link to instrument cluster fault - See code 70
    72 (R) No MAP or MAF change in "goose" test - retest, check for frequency or voltage change - MAP MAF
    (M) 1.9L MFI - VPWR circuit to PCM was intermittent - VPWR Diagnosis
    (M) 2.3L T/C - PCM re-initialized. Possible electrical noise, case ground or intermittent VPWR problem - VPWR Diagnosis
    (M) 3.8L AXOD - Message center data link circuit fault - See code 70
    73 (O) Rerun test, if 73 is still output replace TPS
    (R) No Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) change in "goose" test. Must get at least 25% throttle rotation - TPS
    74 Was brake depressed after engine ID was received ?
    Brake On Off (BOO) signal open or short to ground - BOO
    75 Brake On Off (BOO) signal shorted to power - BOO
    76 Vane Air Flow (VAF) did not respond to "goose" test - VAF
    77 System did not receive "goose" test - see TESTS
    78 (M) VPWR circuit to PCM was intermittent or the PCM is bad VPWR Diagnosis
    79 A/C is on or pin 10 is shorted to power
    81 Boost control solenoid - Solenoids
    AIRD solenoid - Solenoids and Air Injection
    3.0L SHO - Inlet Air Solenoid - Solenoids
    82 2.3L TC - Fan Control wire shorted to ground - A/C and Fan Circuits
    AIRB solenoid - Solenoids and Air Injection
    3.8L SC - Super Charger Bypass Solenoid - Solenoids
    83 High Electro Drive Fan circuit fault - A/C and Fan Circuits
    EGR Control solenoid - Solenoids
    3.0L SHO - Low Speed Fuel Pump Relay circuit - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    84 EGR Vacuum Regulator - Solenoids
    EGR cutoff solenoid - Solenoids
    EGR Vent solenoid - Solenoids
    85 2.3L T/C Automatic - 3/4-4/3 Shift solenoid - Transmissions
    CANP solenoid (ALL 1989) - Solenoids
    (M) 1.9L MFI - System has corrected rich condition - Fuel control
    86 2.3L or 2.9L Truck - A4LD 3/4 shift solenoid - Transmissions
    (M) 1.9L MFI - System has corrected lean condition - Fuel control
    87 (O) Fuel pump circuit fault (check inertia switch) - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    Vehicles with 2BBL carb - Temperature Compensated Accelerator Pump Solenoid - Solenoids
    (M) intermittent in fuel pump primary circuit - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    NOTE: On some Escorts with automatic seat belts this code is normal IN MEMORY due to the wiring
    88 Throttle Kicker Solenoid - Solenoids
    Variable Voltage Choke relay circuit fault - VVC
    Fan Control circuit fault - A/C and Fan Circuits
    A4LD - Converter Clutch Override solenoid - Transmissions
    Electronic Ignition - IDM, DPI or spout circuit fault - Ignition Systems
    89 A4LD - Converter Clutch Override solenoid - Transmissions
    AXOD Torque Converter Control solenoid circuit - Transmissions
    Exhaust Heat Control (heat riser) solenoid circuit - Solenoids
    91 (R, M) System running lean - Fuel control
    Transmission SS 1 circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
    92 (R) System running rich - Fuel control
    Transmission SS 2 circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
    93 (O) Throttle linkage binding or bad ISC motor ISC (R) HO2S not reading - Fuel control
    Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
    94 AIR system inoperative - Air Injection
    Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
    95 (O) Fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    (R) AIR not Diverting (AIRD) - Air Injection
    (M) Possible bad fuel pump ground or open between fuel pump and pin 8 at PCM (Fuel Pump Monitor signal) - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    96 (O) Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    (R) AIR Bypass (AIRB) not working - Air Injection
    (M) (Service 87 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    97 E4OD OD cancel light circuit failure - Transmissions
    98 (R) Did not pass KOEO yet (Get 11 in KOEO first)
    Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure - Transmissions
    99 (R) ISC needs to learn (Let idle for 2 minutes; Erase memory and retest)
    Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure - Transmissions

    ACT Air Charge Temperature Sensor / BP See MAP /
    EEC Electronic Engine Control System
    ECT Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
    EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve
    -- EVP Valve Position Sensor
    EGR / HEGO Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor
    KOEO Key On Engine Off
    KOER Key On Engine Running
    MAF Mass Air Flow Sensor
    MAP Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
    MLP Manual Lever Position
    PCM Powertrain Control Module
    SPOUT Distributor Jumper to Allow Initial Timing
    TP Throttle Position Sensor

    3 digit Code Definitions

    111 System checks OK
    112 (O,M) Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is/was low or grounded - IAT
    113 (O,M) IAT sensor is/was high or open - IAT
    114 (O,R) IAT sensor out of range - IAT
    116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
    117 (O,M) ECT sensor is/was low or grounded - ECT
    118 (O,M) ECT sensor is/was high or open - ECT
    121 (O,R,M) Throttle Position (TP) sensor out of range - TPS
    122 (O,M) TP low (possibly grounded or open circuit) - TPS
    123 (O,M) TP is/was high or short to power - TPS
    124 (M) TP voltage was higher than expected - Fuel control
    125 (M) TP voltage was lower than expected - Fuel control
    126 (O,R,M) MAP or BARO sensor out of range - ">MAP
    128 (M) MAP vacuum has not been changing - check vacuum lines - ">MAP
    129 (R) No MAP or Mass Air Flow sensor change during "goose" test - MAP MAF
    136 (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
    137 (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system rich Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
    138 (R) Fault in Cold Start Injector circuit - Fuel control
    139 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
    144 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
    157 (R,M) Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded - MAF
    158 (O,R,M) MAF sensor is/was high or short to power - MAF
    159 (O,R) MAF sensor is/was out of range - MAF
    167 (R) No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) - TPS
    171 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was at adaptive limits - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
    172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
    173 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was rich - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
    174 (M) Oxygen sensor was slow in switching Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
    175 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was at adaptive limits - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
    176 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
    177 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was rich Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
    178 (M) Oxygen sensor was slow in switching Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
    179 (M) Fuel system was rich at part throttle Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
    181 (M) Fuel system was lean at part throttle Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
    182 (M) Fuel system was rich at idle Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
    183 (M) Fuel system was lean at idle Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
    184 (M) Mass Air (MAF) output higher than expected - Fuel control
    185 (M) Mass Air (MAF) output lower than expected - Fuel control
    186 (M) Injector pulse width longer than expected or Mass Air Flow (MAF) lower than expected - Fuel control
    187 Injector pulse width shorter than expected or Mass Air Flow (MAF) higher than expected - Fuel control
    188 (M) Fuel system was rich at part throttle - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
    189 (M) Fuel system was lean at part throttle - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
    191 (M) Fuel system was rich at idle - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
    192 (M) Fuel system was lean at idle - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
    193 Failure in Flexible Fuel (FF) sensor circuit - Fuel control
    194 (M) Perform cylinder balance test to check for inoperative injectors
    195 (M) Perform cylinder balance test to check for inoperative injectors
    211 (M) Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing - Ignition Systems
    212 (M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault - Ignition Systems
    213 (R) Ignition SPOUT or SAW circuit open or shorted - Ignition Systems
    214 (M) Error in Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal - Ignition Systems
    215 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 1 - Ignition Systems
    216 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 2 - Ignition Systems
    217 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 3 - Ignition Systems
    218 (M) IDM signal open or high or left coil pack failure - Ignition Systems
    219 (M) SPOUT circuit failure, timing defaulted to 10 degrees - follow code 213 diagnosis
    222 (M) IDM open or high or right coil pack failure - Ignition Systems
    223 (M) Dual Plug (DPI), SPOUT or IDM circuit fault - Ignition Systems
    224 (M) Failure in ignition coil primary circuit - Ignition Systems
    225 (R) Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS
    226 (O) Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal fault - Ignition Systems
    232 (M) EI primary coil circuit failure - Ignition Systems
    238 (M) EI primary circuit failure - ignition coil 4 - Ignition Systems
    311 (R) AIR system not working - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Air Injection
    312 (R) AIR not diverting - Air Injection
    313 (R) AIR not bypassing - Air Injection
    314 (R) AIR inoperative, Left or Front HO2S - Air Injection
    326 (R,M) Pressure Feedback EGR shows low pressure EGR not seating or not seating intermittently - PFE
    327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE
    328 (O,R,M) EGR Valve Position (EVP) is/was low - EVR
    332 (R,M) EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly - EVR or PFE
    334 (O,R,M) EVP sensor is/was high - EVR
    335 (O) EGR feedback signal is/was out of range - EVR or PFE
    336 (O,R,M) PFE sensor signal is/was was high - ">PFE
    337 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was was high - EVR
    338 (M) Cooling system did not heat up (check cooling system / thermostat operation)
    339 (M) Cooling system overheated (check cooling system / thermostat operation)
    341 (O) Octane jumper installed (information only code to notify you if it is installed)
    411 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high) - ISC
    412 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC
    452 (M) Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) problem
    511 (O) No power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (processor)
    512 (M) Memory power (PCM pin 1) was interrupted - Was battery disconnected ?
    513 (O) Replace processor (PCM) (internal failure)
    519 (O) PSP switch/circuit open - PSP
    521 (R) Wheel not turned during test or PSP problem - PSP
    522 (O) Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault - PNP
    transmission MLP sensor out of range in park - Transmissions
    524 Problem in low speed fuel pump circuit - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    525 (O,M) Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault - PNP
    528 (M) System shows voltage at pin 10 (is A/C on ?) or pin 30 (PNP, CPP switch) - PNP
    529 (M) Data Communications Link to processor failure
    Service any EEC codes, erase memory and retest. If code is still present refer to instrument cluster diagnosis manual.
    533 (M) Data Communications Link to instrument cluster failure - see 529
    536 (O,R,M) Brake On Off open or shorted to ground - BOO
    538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test - TESTS
    539 (O) System shows voltage at PCM pin 10. Is A/C on ?
    542 (O,M) Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    543 (O) Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    (M) (Service 556 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    551 Problem in Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) solenoid/circuit - Solenoids
    552 (O) AIRB solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids
    553 (O) AIRD solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids
    554 (O) Fuel Press Regulator Control solenoid/circuit fault - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    556 (O,M) Fuel pump relay primary circuit fault - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    557 (O,M) Low speed pump relay primary circuit fault - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    558 (O) EGR vacuum regulator solenoid/circuit failure - EVR or PFE or Solenoids
    559 (O) A/C relay primary circuit fault - A/C and Fan Circuits
    563 (O) High Fan Control (HFC) circuit failure - A/C and Fan Circuits
    564 (O) Fan Control (FC) circuit failure - A/C and Fan Circuits
    565 (O) Canister Purge 1 solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids
    566 (O) transmission 3/4 shift solenoid/circuit - Transmissions
    569 (O) Canister Purge 2 solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids
    578 (M) A/C pressure sensor VREF short to ground - A/C and Fan Circuits
    579 (M) ACP sensor did not change with A/C on - A/C and Fan Circuits
    581 (M) Cooling fan current was excessive - A/C and Fan Circuits
    582 (O) Open cooling fan circuit - A/C and Fan Circuits
    583 (M) Fuel pump current was excessive - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    584 (M) Open power ground circuit - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    585 (M) A/C clutch current was excessive - A/C and Fan Circuits
    586 (M) Open circuit in A/C clutch - A/C and Fan Circuits
    587 (O, M) Communication problem between PCM and Variable Control Relay Module (VCRM) - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
    617 (M) Transmission shift failure (1/2 shift) - Transmissions
    618 (M) Transmission shift failure (2/3 shift) - Transmissions
    619 (M) Transmission shift failure (3/4 shift) - Transmissions
    621 (O) Solenoid/circuit failure - shift solenoid 1 - Transmissions
    622 (O) Solenoid/circuit failure - shift solenoid 2 - Transmissions
    624 (O,M) Solenoid/circuit failure -Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) current is high - Transmissions
    625 (O,M) Solenoid/circuit failure - Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) current is low - Transmissions
    626 (O) Transmission Coast Clutch (CCS) Solenoid/circuit fault - Transmissions
    627 (O) Torque Converter Clutch circuit fault - Transmissions
    628 (M) Excessive converter clutch slippage - Transmissions
    629 (O,M) Torque Converter Clutch circuit fault - Transmissions
    631 (O) Overdrive Cancel Light circuit problem - Transmissions
    632 (R) E4OD - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test
    633 (O) 4x4L switch should be in 4x2 or 4x4 high for the test
    634 (O,M) Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault
    Electronic shift transmission - Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor out of range in PARK - Transmissions
    636 (O,R) Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range - Transmissions
    637 (O,M) TOT sensor is/was high or open - Transmissions
    638 (O,M) TOT sensor is/was low or grounded - Transmissions
    639 (R,M) Transmission Speed sensor (TSS) circuit fault - Transmissions
    641 (O) Transmission solenoid/circuit failure Shift Solenoid 3 - Transmissions
    643 (O)(M) Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) circuit - Transmissions
    645 (M) Transmission 1st gear failure - Transmissions
    646 (M) Transmission 2nd gear failure - Transmissions
    647 (M) Transmission 3rd gear failure - Transmissions
    648 (M) Transmission 4th gear failure - Transmissions
    649 (M) Transmission EPC system failure - Transmissions
    651 (M) Transmission EPC solenoid/circuit fault - Transmissions
    652 (O) Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) circuit fault - Transmissions
    654 (O) Transmission selector not in PARK - Transmissions
    656 (M) Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) slip - Transmissions
    657 (M) Transmission temperature was excessive - Transmissions
    998 (R) Did not pass Key On Engine Off test yet (Get 111 in KOEO first)
    (O) Transmission Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) solenoid/circuit fault - Transmissions
    Code Definitions:

    ACT Air Charge Temperature Sensor
    BP See MAP
    EEC Electronic Engine Control System
    ECT Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
    EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve
    EVP EGR Valve Position Sensor
    HEGO Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor
    KOEO Key On Engine Off
    KOER Key On Engine Running
    MAF Mass Air Flow Sensor
    MAP Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
    MLP Manual Lever Position
    PCM Powertrain Control Module
    SPOUT Distributor Jumper to Allow Initial Timing
    TP Throttle Position Sensor

    Drive shaft compatability
    Aerostar shafts are aluminum, use your existing yoke
    SN95 drive shafts will fit but are not aluminum.

    Distributor check and reset

    remove #1 plug
    insert a decent wad of tissue paper tightly in the spark plug hole
    quickly bump engine over until you hear the tissue paper pop out
    you are now on compression stroke for number one cyl but not tdc
    looking directly at the crank pully rotate the crank CW until pointer is on tdc
    as you trun your crank, use a narrow screwdriver in the plug hole and touching the piston
    as you rotate the crank, the screwdriver will rise as you hold it.
    you will feel a flat area where nothing happens then it changes
    go back to where you were and line back up to where the piston is tdc.
    if the pass valve cover is off, both #1 rockers should be kinda loose
    remove dizzy cap and rotor should be pointing directly at number 1 post
    if its ahead or behind, you are off and dizzy needs reset.
    **if its off by like a half inch or so, then dont pull the dizzy, just adjust by advance or retarding.
    The proper or typical look of a dizzy is the rotor point at number one post and the TFI pointing towards
    the drivers front corner. (this is just my opinion). After the dizzy is checked, you have room to advance either

    remove 1/2 bolt,keeper at the base of dizzy
    remove tfi plug
    the dizzy will be tight to get out at first cause of the oring at the base
    be careful if you do not know whos been in your motor before.
    its possible the oil pump shaft may not have the keeper on
    if it does not, the oil pump shaft may fall down into the timing cover/oil pan
    if this happens, your screwed.
    there is no way to tell if the little slip on keeper is installed or not.
    you can only tell if the motor is opened up.
    Gently rotate the dizzy back and forth while trying to lift it.
    lube up the oring with grease at the base of the dizzy and the hole
    when you get it out, guess / estimate your location/orientation of the rotor.
    its a good idea to look at other engines as to how their dizzy sits
    the orientation of the tfi is important for setting the timing later.
    drop the dizzy and fully seat it.
    check to see if it will be point to number 1 post
    if it does, snug on the keep / bolt and use your timing light to adjust.
    set timing to 10deg btdc or whatever you prefer.

    **sometimes you may have to nudge the crank either cw or ccw a wee bit to get the hex shaped
    oil pump shaft to mate up inside the dizzy shaft. this gets tricky and if you cant get the dizzy to seat,
    you gotta keep tinkering with the crank either direction while trying to seat the dizzy.
    Power Window troubleshooting
    these steps apply to driver side
    for pass side troubleshooting, substitute colors Yellow/Red(up) and Red/Yellow(down)

    you can back probe the console connector with a paperclip.
    remove console cover to get to the back of the switch.
    turn ing sw on
    jumper the red/light blue (fused lead)
    the yellow for "UP"
    ground the red "DOWN"
    this will make the window go up

    jumper the red/light blue (fused lead)
    the red for "down"
    ground out the yellow "down"
    this will make the window go down

    turn on ign
    check rd/lb wire for power using a meter or test light
    if yes, paperclip jumper the harness side rd/lb to yellow(up) and ground the red(down).
    paperclip jumper the harness side rd/lb to red(down) and ground the yellow(up)
    if no, proceed to step 2
    motor moves? yes? replace switch
    motor moves? no, proceed on to step 3

    no power to harness red/light blue wire?
    check circuit breaker, if power returns , go back to step 1
    to check circuit breaker , proceed to step 4

    unplug window motor at next avail conn like in the door
    if there is another conn prior to the door, undo it first and proceed with the following steps.
    if you fail, move to the actual window motor conn in the door and repeat these steps
    supply the motor with power and ground
    switch positions of pos / neg to reverse the motor direction
    does motor move?
    if yes, replace / repair harness from console to door such as moon gear area.
    if no, replace motor assembly

    remove circuit breaker
    set meter to ohms
    read continuity across both contacts?
    if yes proceed to step 5
    if no, replace circuit breaker and go to step 1

    apply power to one leg of the breaker
    have your meter close to you set on ohms
    apply a ground to the other breaker leg by quickly touching / removing
    read continuity on the breaker
    resistance should be high and is decreasing to a short as it cools off
    if it does, cool and return to continuity, the breaker is good possibly / likely good.

    possible faults
    faulty circuit breaker getting old due to heating/cooling
    faulty r/lb wiring from breaker
    faulty wiring leading to the door and up to the motor
    faulty switch
    moon gear in door is cutting into harness
    faulty motor

    Fuel pump testing (intermittant or no pump sound)
    (references are made to a schematic but are not shown,,leme know if you need em)

    1983 and 1984 model owners listen up!!
    Some cars got two pumps. One low presure electric pump in the tank and a high presure pump near the fuel filter. Make sure you know what you have and verify you have one or two.

    later models got one single high presure pump in the tank and im sure most cars with two pumps could delet the external one for a single in tank version.

    I could suggest what the Shop manual says to do and it might be in your best interest to do so cause it will verify if the pump is actually going bad or not. They say to install a fuel pres tester to the shrader valve and secure the guage to the windshield with tape. Drive your car and observe the fuel presure does not drop below 30psi during the "LABOR" of the engine between shifts. If it does fall below, replacement is gonna have to happen. Driving the car under a load is really the only way to simulate the problem.

    I does sound like an electrical issue but here are a couple diagrams to help out. Primary page to focus on is page 54. Page 55 shows that power splice "s532" on the top and is the source or "source splice" of power for your fuel pump relay located at lower right hand front of engine.

    Go to the test connector and ground out the tan/light green wire.
    turn the ign switch on, this supplies power energize the EEC Relay.
    The eec relay will now deliver power to the coil of the Fuel pump relay. (stare at it for a min and you'll see what i mean)
    the fuel pump relay will get its ground from the eec.
    the pump relay will energize if the inertia sw is closed and the eec pin 22 supplies the ground.

    The fp relay yellow fuse link wire will send power to the pump directly if all works as planned.

    Your best hope is that the fp is not working while you troubleshoot. This way you can isolate the issue without even getting dirty.
    Perhaps checking the fuse link connections up at the starter relay would also be an option while troubleshooting.

    With the tan/light green wire grounded and the ign sw on, you can hear the pump run.
    If you do not hear the pump run,, ground out the same color wire at the relay in the trunk.
    if the pump does run, the eec or the chassis wiring (tan/lg)leading to the relay is defective.
    If it does not run still, then apply a 12v power leg to the pink/black
    if the fp runs, the relay is defective.
    if the fp does not run, its the pump.

    ================================================== ================
    Fuel pump, Want an external one?

    1983 and 1984 model owners listen up!!
    Some cars got two pumps. One low presure electric pump in the tank and a high presure pump near the fuel filter. Make sure you know what you have and verify you have one or two.

    by: Megasquirt website
    OEMs usually place pump inside the fuel tank. In an EFI retrofit it is generally easier to use an external fuel pump. Ford used external fuel pumps on 1989 era 150 trucks which may be a candidate for use. These are high pressure [port EFI] pumps that will work in most applications. Econoline vans have these as well.

    The external pumps used in Ford F150 fuel injected trucks from the 89-93 model years are Delco EP286. At 12 volts, the operating pressure is 70-95 PSI with 36-40 gals per hour. The biggest Delco pump is the EP424, which is 75-90 PSI at 40 gals per hour. EP 268 is a GM# 25117086, EP 424 is a GM# 25176156."

    The Carter pump #P70199 (the outlet is 7/16 standard pipe thread and the inlet is 15/32 clamped hose type fitting or 3/4 standard thread. The specs are 95-PSI max, 68-93 G/Hr wide open). This is the highest flowing Carter external fuel pump in the book. It will produce up to 95 psi, and crosses over to EP7107 at Kragen for about $80 (unfortunately one end does not come off like the Carter). You might want the Ford style pump EP7109($80). You will need this if you want to be able to modify ends to be 3/8".

    Others have had luck using the external pump from various fuel injected VolksWagen models (87 VW Fox, for example). Part number is: Bosch 0 580 254 957 reportedly rated at 90 GPH@ 70PSI, you might find them for about $130 new from This pump consists of a fuel pump, filter, and an "accumulator". You can leave the accumulator in place since it does not affect the running volume or pressure, and on used pumps they are often rusted so you might not want to mess with it.

    Auto Performance Engineering has many high volume Walbro pumps (and their specifications) on their site.

    ================================================== ====
    Head gasket tid bits
    this applies to the 5.0 , 5.8 ect (the 3.8 is a little harder to verify cause of head design but same
    principle reguarding the headgasket shape applies.

    Which way is the correct way to install your heagasket?
    what if its already installed and you wanna know if its backwards?

    There are holes everywhere on a headgasket so just study it and youll see what each does.
    There are two large holes on the ends of each gasket. These two holes are to be always and
    forever assumed to go to the rear of the engine block. Your heads and block have two holes in the rear and front. Your headgasket does not match up with water ports up front.
    I have a theory on this and i may be wrong but here it is. A typical RWD engine sits in a car and rear part is slighty lower than the front. Water comes in the bottom, thru the block,, and up into the heads via the rear headgasket port,, moving through the heads,, then water crosses over the intake on the rear and front runner ,, then out the tstat housing then back around the radiator,,bla bla bla,, starts over again.
    long story short,, your water would infact have to jump an air gap to leap out of the block to get up into the head if the gaskets were backwards so it could make it to the intake.

    Verify your gaskets are on correctly by looking at the front of the motor both lower left and lower right. If you can see the headgasket(typically a 90deg tab), its in correctly. if you cant see a gasket sticking out then its on wrong.

    Some folks like to "port match thier headgaskets with relation to water port sizes. Some people like to add the other two water jacket holes to the front of the headgaskets for better circulation. Do what you want but be careful and take your time.

    The lower corner of the headgasket on each side is different. One being 90deg (located up forward) while
    the other being rounded (located to the rear)

    Door Weather Striping
    1992 topaz fits perfect according to member cougarcrager

    Head Gasket Remove (3.8 specific but applies in general)

    purchase list
    Felpro headgasket kit
    Felpro TTY bolts (torque to yield)
    CFI base plate gasket kit (not actually optional but its up to You)
    lifters (cheap so just get them)
    valve job (optional)

    skill level required (anyone who wants to give it a try)

    steps to remove/replace

    Number each connection with tape
    PCV fitting on rear of cfi will have a number "1" as well as a number "1" on the actual line. this allows you to mate up connections easier later on if your project gets stalled.
    take a couple digital photos of several angles of the engine bay

    unplug wiring harness(s) to pretty much everything on the top of engine
    undo plug wires (number them)
    drain most of the radiator fluid via the wing nut on radiator
    undo vac lines to rear intake/egr/pre heat valve
    unconnect heater / radiator hoses
    remove valve covers
    remove all your rockers/pushrods
    pattern them so they go back where they came from
    loosen up exhaust header bolts under the car where the meet the y pipe
    remove exhaust bolts
    remove cfi egr base plate
    remove intake preheat valve bolts on driver side intake
    rotate the preheat valve to access intake bolts
    remove all intake bolts
    lift intake off
    remove head bolts
    pry off heads
    locate alignment dowels (hollow tubes)
    install your dowels in the engine side if you can remove them
    sometimes the dowels will stay on the engine and sometimes on the head or both.
    clean off surface of block and head with putty knive
    sand it with what ever you can come up with but get it real clean
    stand a straight edge up on its edge from opposite corners of the head measuring diagonally.
    shine a light in the background
    use a feeler guage to measure warpage (.006 allowed)
    measure warpage from side to side or withdth (.003 allowed)
    *even brand new heads have warpage in the center***
    you will find your warpage to be concentrated in the center and thats normal.
    *the warpage is taken out when head is installed due to torque pattern
    *if you would like, mill the heads and get rid of the warpage all together

    install headgaset but pay attention to the pattern of how the water jacket holes are.
    some smaller water jacket holes are blocked off or slightly blocked off due to how the gasket is made.
    feel free to enlarge the "TRIANGLE" holes in between the cylinders using a metal chissel if you like. Use a piece metal on the backside, not wood. Wood gives and it will bend your gasket. The headgasket is pre stamped holes are normally to small and i consider this a water restriction.
    clean off surfaces and add your gasket to the engine block
    use your new bolts and snug down the bolts on the head working from the center outwards in a criss cross pattern. Snug means snug, not tighten.
    You will want to snug them down about three trips all the way around.
    torque to about 20ft/lbs on the first tightening sequence then to factory specs on the final go around.
    ***the key here is to work from the center moving outwards in a criss cross pattern. This takes out the warpage in the center.

    No sealer needed

    when you get the heads on, just simply tighten the rockers / pushrods to about 20ft/lbs.
    you will leave the valve covers off on your initial start and tweek in any noisy rocker arm anyway.
    No, the oil wont fly around if you tuck a towel in between the plug wires and the heads along each head.
    install everything in reverse order and look for leaks afterwards.

    i hope i didnt forget anything
    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> >
    some instances will require the distributor to be removed so here is that part as well

    locate and mentally note where cylinder number one plug wire is located on the distributor cap (should already be a "1" on it)
    remove distributor cap only
    rotate crank shaft with breaker bar till harmonic pointer is on the "0" degree mark
    does the rotor button point in the general direction of where Number 1 plug wire was?
    if it appears that is 180 degrees off or pointing the opposite, rotate the crank shaft again one full turn and get it back on zero degrees top dead center
    now your rotor should be pointing to number 1 plug wire post on your distributor cap
    to verify your on TDC combution stroke , remove number one plug
    insert a screwdriver in the hole and you will feel the piston is up top
    also note that both intake and exhaust valves are not pushed down
    there will be a little play in both rockers
    this confirms there is no tension on the pushrods and the piston is up.
    dont rotate anything anymore,,, dont touch,, just dont!!
    mark the edge of the dissy where the pointer is aimed. Your mark should be placed on the surface where the cap would normally sit.
    follow the dizzy shaft down to where it inserts into the timing cover
    clean off grease
    make a stright line mark on the base of the dizzy and on the timing cover
    remove dizzy holding bolt/clamp (1/2'' or 13mm)
    remove dizzy but be very slow
    rotate the rotor button CCW as you lift upwards
    if your oil pump shaft comes out, Live with it and deal with it later, just dont drop it inside the timing cover.
    reinstall your oil pump shaft
    get a long piece of vac hose and slip it just slightly over the end of the oil pump shaft
    slowly lower the shaft into the dizzy hole until you have landed the end into the oil pump gear "HEX" opening
    rotate the vac hose cw or ccw to loosen the hose fromt the shaft
    dont lift up as you do this , just rotate it slowly and it will release.

    wheeww,, that was the tricky part

    Valve Cover repair
    the reason why valve covers leak is because people dont notice the attention to
    detail required. The bolts get cranked down from time to time by the owner.
    after a while, the bolt holes in the cover will ***bevel*** downwards.
    Since the metal around the hole bevels downwards,, the the cover will bottom out
    to the head sooner. This makes you think you require a thicker than normal valve
    cover gasket.

    the fix..............

    inspect each hole on the cover and the downward bevel.
    Flip valve cover upside down and lay its flat edge on a 2x4
    tap on each hole with a flat metal object and a hammer
    after holes are flattened, the gasket should be smooshed evenly when installed
    it would be ideal to bevel the holes upwards slightly so more presure is put
    on the entire gasket

    check out the bone yard and you will find some GM engines have a "wing" shaped
    washer on each bolt hole. Find you some of these and install them. You wont need
    to fix the cover again cause the wing shaped washer covers a distance of about an
    1 1/2 inches on either side of each bolt/hole while increasing your presure more
    evenly around the cover.
    You could just make you a set like i did. I found me a frame work braket inside
    a microwave and decided to keep it for something one day. I hacksawed the basic
    shape and drilled the hole out then touched up with the bench grinder. I sprayed
    flat black on them and called it good.

    technically speaking, you should not need gasket sealer ,, its your choice.
    Install and snug the bolts
    Insure that the bottom three bolts get the most attention and snug down the top ones.

    __________________________________________________ ________________
    Cruise control slip ring test

    other associated possible faults are the horn relay or the fuse

    test the slip rings..............
    jack up the front end of your car (both wheels)
    unplug the eec from pass kick panel (this allows the entire harness to be checked)
    set meter to ohms
    prob the harness for pins ..
    50- feeder to all contacts normally open
    39- ground side of all contacts normally open

    rotate the steering wheel while you actuate the following switches for the
    below ohm value. (+- 5%)

    off - 0 to 4 ohms
    Resume-2200 ohms
    Accel -680 ohms
    Coast -120 ohms

    if values fluxuate while steering is rotated, relub contacts with conductive compound,
    observe wear marks and bend or tweek them as needed then retest.

    ***At the stearing column check only***
    If you wish to just check the slip rings themselves,, locate connector C113
    behind stearing column.
    find a connector with the following colors
    light blue/black- cruise feed , (same as eec pin 50)
    black- cruise ground (same as eec pin 39)
    *****the 1987 evtm says the above wire is black but my 1987 suppliment manual
    calls the above wire to be orange.
    yellow/light green- horn

    insert your ohm meter leads into the the light blue/black and the black wire
    check for the same resistance values. if values are much better or greatly improved,
    your wiring harness to the eec has damage or above normal resistance.
    Instant test light
    remove the single wire connector that feeds your bulb under the dash
    grab a jumper wire that will reach the area your working
    insert one end of the wire inside the plug you undid to the lightbulb
    now insert the wire where ever your looking for power
    if the light comes on,, the wire your tinkering with has power
    if not,, it has no power

    the under the hood bulb can also be used in the same manner for engine bay work
    but the hood must be up,,,,because of the mercury switch.
    Injector balance test
    I read up on this and it caught my eye
    you might want to disconect your Idle control motor assy prior to this test
    warm up your car
    shut down car and uplug ISC motor
    start engine
    unplug one injector at a time
    observe a TAC mounted somewhere that you have as stock or prefab'd
    there should be no less than 100 rpm of drop for any injector.

    Idle control motor (ISC adn idle tracking switch check) 3.8 and some 5.0 engines

    ISC motor>>>
    yellow/black{eec pin21}ISC+
    white/light blue{eec pin 41}ISC-
    add power and ground to either of the above wires to extand and retract motor plunger
    isc motor + to - resistance is to be about 5 ohms
    motor should extend greater than 2'' from mounting braket
    motor should retract less than 1.75'' from mounting braket and off the face of throttle linkage

    ITS (idle tracking switch)
    retract motor plunger and mesure resistance from the following
    light green/white {eec pin 28}ITS
    black/white {eec pin 46}(also at self test conn)SIG RTN
    resistance should be less than 5 ohms.
    fuel pres test
    I made up a real dandy fuel pres tester I got the fitting off a spare cfi and gutted the center pin out. i attached this fitting to the end of a hose. On the other end i got a water guage from an old well pump and clamped it on. VVWWAAALLLA,, instant fuel pres tester. you have to remove your stock cfi fitting and install the gutted one for the test.

    anyways,, hook up a fuel pres tester to the rt side of the cfi and turn the key forward. You should get about 38lbs or better at the guage if the reg is working ok.

    leave the guage on and drive the car with guage kind of taped to the windshield,, watch the guage as your tranny cycles thru gears,, this is sort of a load test. The pres guage will drop when rpm is at max on each gear but the drop should be temporary and no lower the 15 lbs or so.

    EGR/emissions solenoids (codes)
    Dual Thermactor Air control Solenoid Valve- both should read 51-108 ohms
    EGR Solenoid Vacuum Valve Assembly - both should read 32 to 64 ohms
    EGR Valve Position Sensor EVP (OR/W to brn/ltgrn resistance is 5.5k with no vac and 100ohms with vac)(4-6vdc on VREF or/wht)
    Electronic Vacuum Regulator EVR 30 to 70 ohms (koeo voltage is about 10.5vdc)

    EGR test and EVP sensor test
    apply vac pres to egr vac line fitting.
    if it holds the diaphram for a long time,, the diaphram is good
    remove carbon buildup on egr base as well as egr base plate assy for 3.8l engines

    EVP test (egr sensor)
    wire id...
    EEC PIN 26 "VREF" orange/white (parallels off to map)
    EEC PIN 27 "EVP SIGNAL" brown/light green
    EEC PIN 46 "SIG Return" black/white (parallels off to self test conn)

    disconnect vac line
    disconnect elec conn
    hook ohm meter up to the VREF adn EVP Sig contacts
    hook up vac guage or apply vac to egr
    ohm meter should start out at about 5.5k ohms.
    as vac is increased to max, resistance should bottom out to no less than 100ohms.

    key on, engine off
    cap off vac fitting on evp sensor
    measure for 4 to 6 volts dc between VREF and SIGNAL RETURN (ground)
    ECT sensor test feeds the computer
    Resistance test pin to pin of the sensor (this is a variable resister proportional to temperature including outside air temp if the motor is cold)
    at 50degF=58K ohms
    at 65degF=40K ohms
    at 180degF=3.6K ohms
    at 220degF=1.8K ohms

    next clean the end of the sensor with scotch brite ect and retest
    if high temps persist, replace coolant temp sensor and ECT as a matched set.
    if that does not work, start looking at your coolant system parts.
    ACT sensor test ,,,feeds the computer
    Resistance test pin to pin of the sensor (this is a variable resister proportional to temperature including outside air temp if the motor is cold)
    at 50degF=58K ohms
    at 65degF=40K ohms
    at 180degF=3.6K ohms
    at 220degF=1.8K ohms
    smog pump delete and some other goodies
    ok here goes

    If your interested in keeping the emissions ****LOOK**** for inspection purposes then do this.
    -Loosen smog pump bolts (three 10mm bolts)
    -remove old belt
    -remove by hand the three bolts you loosened up on smog pump pully
    -pry off by hand the plasic fan you find behind the smog pump pully
    -purchase a 77 1/2'' belt
    -install new belt.
    -you will notice this new belt barely misses hitting the face of you smog pump
    -start engine and you *might* hear the belts edge rub the face of the pump but this will only be for a minor moment in time.
    now you dont have to touch anything else anywhere other than the smog system. It still looks stock and passes the visual check for the emissions folks,,if they dont notice the belt drive system. the smog pump is kind of burried anyway so i dont think it would be noticed unless someone was looking for it.
    this is by far the easiest way if know to take the smog pump out of the picture.

    If your interested in removing all emission , do this.
    locate the black pvc vac line
    disconnect it and plug/spare back at the smog pump
    locate its far end behind the coolant fill tank and only unhook the solenoid switch for it.

    locate the tan pvc vac line
    disconnect it and plug/spare back at the smog pump
    locate its far end behind the coolant fill tank and only unhook the solenoid switch for it.

    locate the green pvc vac line
    locate it at the egr and plug / spare it back
    unplug the elec conn as well
    locate its far end behind the coolant fill tank and only unhook the solenoid switch for it.

    locate the org pvc vac line.
    locate it at the pre-heat valve on the driver side intake and plug/spare it back.
    locate its far end behind the coolant fill tank and only unhook the solenoid switch for it.

    locate the red pvc vac line
    locate it at the hex shaped distribution hook up on rear center of intake and plug/spare it back. tinker around till you end up not needing this connection any longer. this will aid in removing the hoses to the lid as well as the "t" is not needed anymore.
    locate this red line along the driver strut tower and there will be a red three way fitting. disonnect it somewhere along there and plug/spare it back. This red line gets its vac from the intake and triggers the solenoid bank black,tan,green,org for emissions operation.

    locate the HEX shaped vac distribution hook up on rear center of intake.
    again, tinker around in this area till your **RED** line is no longer feeding a vac signal to the solenoid bank behind the coolant fill tank.

    locate the vac lines that go to the air cleaner lid.
    again, delete these, you can appreciate this more and more in the future.
    locate the one way valve on the rear of intake pointing to pass side and the associated plumbing going to diverter valve
    remove the associated plumbing hooked to this one way valve on the intake and smog pump end. this will leave you with a one way valve that will be noisy when you start up. If you want, install a bolt in place of the valve. I decided to run a heater hose from this valve directly along the pass side of the car. I allow the other end of this hose to pass thru a convienient hole found in on the rear pass side of the strut tower. this is the exit spot for this one way valve to vent out into the world. I decided not to plug it off with a bolt because there is something very tricky about these 87 and down intakes that i dont quite understand yet. So for the sake of causing a possible clogging up of the pan on the underside of the intake,, i decided to leave atleast one area open for that once in a while burp the intake may need.

    locate the pipe that goes to the exhaust as well as associated plumbing that goes to the smog pump.
    remove the plumbing at both ends for this hose / pipe run.
    crimp off the exhaust with vise grips and bend it over. Better yet,, you have a chance to do what i wished i had done *************if you listen up. ......... run a section of heater hose from the one way valve on the rear of the intake to the metal pipe that is already installed on your exhaust. You can pull this pipe out of your exhaust and eyeball it for a while till you figure out a way to rebend it so it takes the curve you need and it finally mates up to the heater hose. This will allow your intake to vent out thru your exhaust system.,, gezz i wish i had thought of this when i was doing my smog delete.

    locate all the solenoids behind the coolant fill tank.
    unhook all the electrical solenoids, they no longer perform any emissions fuctions so save some money on your electic bill

    Next up would be the removeal of the CFI and cleaning out the carbon buildup that fuggers up your power but thats a different subject. if you feel froggy, go for it and you will find what im talking about directly up under the cfi where carbon builds up. Tinker around with the vac line that goes from the rear of the cfi(gold fitting) which lands over at you pvc valve. unhook the vac from here all together. You will need to move directly to this next step. Locate the Main vac line that comes from your plastic distribution section (driver side firewall) an runs to the "HEX" shaped diagonally installed thing a ma jig on the rear center of the intake i previouslyspoke of.
    Cut off about 2 1/2 inches of it at the intake end. Install a "T" right at the intake side. This will leave you with a third end free for use. Now hack/slice and dice around with the metal line that goes from the pvc valve. The other end is no longer hooked up to the cfi so cut the end off,,transition it to a rubber hose and hook it up to the third and final location on your newly installed "T" fitting.

    remove your belt
    remove your smog pump
    **********RE_INSTALL the long pivit bolt because it acts as a pivit for the smog but also is a support member for the bracket assy that holds your alternator. call my bluff on this if you want but i now have a broken bracket because i did not install it. This bolt should be the color blue for some odd reason. i think it passes thru the water jacket but i cant actually remember what the heck im talking about on this but anyways,,,, install it back or be sorry later.

    purchase a ****77 1/2 inch belt from advance for about 35 bux.

    if i missed something, im sure you'll figure it out.

    let us know if you **CAN*** pull codes now but **can not after you unhook all this crap. just curious

    continue on and you will also want to get rid of the metal pipe for your heater core that runs along the intake. Simply undo all that crap. run a heater hose from the far left passanger side of your heater core and hook it up directly to the water pump left pass side fitting. run a second hose from the heater core driver side fitting and run it directly to the coolant sending unit fitting. Its that freaking simple to get rid of the metal heater pipes!!!

    now that you have done all this , some strange objects will appear on the passanger side of your car. dont call 911 or anything like that cause these mysterious objects happen to be your spark plugs you can new see without any strain.

    Coolant Temp sensor (1 wire)feeds the dash display in parallel with dash resistor.
    resistance measurements are taken from the threaded stud to the housing
    With a bone cold motor the resistance should be high or open
    First , remove the single wire and ground it with key on
    you needle or guage should max out
    next unhook your oil presure switch and reconect temp sensor and retest
    next , with a hot motor, unhook the single wire
    your resistance should be very low approaching a short
    next clean the end of the sensor with scotch brite ect and retest
    if high temps persist, replace coolant temp sensor and ECT as a matched set.
    if that does not work, start looking at your coolant system parts.
    Trip minder conversion
    Its plug and play!!!
    remove clock and install trip minder
    Fuel injection configuration
    2.3 L engine (bank fire)
    inj 1, 2 pin 58
    inj 3, 4 pin 59

    1982 - 87 3.8 L engine CFI (Bank fire) including some earlier 5.0's
    (larger CFI which is a nice mod to a 3.8 and bolts right on)
    inj 1 , pin 58
    inj 2 , pin 59

    1988 3.8 L engine 6 injectors (bank/batch fire)
    inj 1,2,3, pin 58eec to cyl 1,2,4 respectively
    inj 4,5,6, pin 59eec to cyl 3,5,6 respectively
    *inj 1,2,4 fire on first shot
    *inj 3,5,6 fire on second shot

    1989+ 3.8 L engine 6 injectors (sefi)
    pinouts,, not sure

    5.0L 1986 + (sefi)
    inj 1 , pin 58
    inj 2 , pin 59
    inj 3 , pin 12
    inj 4 , pin 13
    inj 5 , pin 14
    inj 6 , pin 15
    inj 7 , pin 42
    inj 8 , pin 52
    trottle body cleaning
    the view i am writting is looking at the moter from the front of the car....

    better have a throttle body base plate gasket kit standing by.

    enjoy!!! this is real easy.

    remove the air cleaner,, one vac hose on top goes to the intake vac stem,, very important part of the crank case vac. Notice , just fyi,,that the other vac line goes up to the MAP sensor!!

    POP off the gas pedal linkage,, just pop it off.
    POP off the metal rod (TV ROD)that is hooked to the same linkage. it goes to the tranny and adjusts your shifting smooth or hard. (TV- Throttle Valve) some cars have a cable instead.

    undo the IDLE CONTROL motor conn , round gold looking thing on the right front side of the throttle body.

    undo the Trottle Position sensor conn,, little black vertical mounted device left side of throttle body, red/grn/blk wires. If you still have that little mounting braket,, just can it., worthless..

    Undo the vac line / elec conn that goes to the EGR valve,, big round sidways mounted device with a vac line and elec conn.
    It is mounted to the bottom plate of the throttle body left side sort of in the rear.

    Undo the 4wire conn,, red/brwn on the front center top of the trottle body that ends up at each fuel injector,, by the way what color are yours on top? green?

    undo the PVC pipe/hose that plugs to the gold looking fitting on the rear right side of the throttle body.

    Undo the presure test fitting cap on the very top right side of the throttle body,, innertube looking cap. Insert a pen or something to bleed off any fuel pres that may be still on the top side of the injectors. just push in on the little pin. this is where you can take a fuel pres reading,,, just fyi.

    Undo the two fuel lines that go to the throttle body. the left one is the feed, it pushes fuel up thru the unit,, overcomes the round gold BOSCH regulator on the very top of the Throttle body,puts about 40lbs on each injector at the same time and the excess travels down the right pipe and back to the tank.

    Undo the four nuts that hold the unit down.

    You have the CFI off!!! there are only 6 or 7 things involved,, i just get kind of windy.

    Flip it over and chip away at anything you think doesnt belong. Take a looksee at the tube that the pvc was hooked to

    for the egr base plate.
    unbolt the egr from the base plate,,, two nuts only. Test egr,, put some vac presure on the vac fitting and see if the egr opens and closes. The shade tree mech way is to suck on it,, if it makes noise ,, its good,, most all the time. You will hear the thing open and close as you do this.

    Undo the three bolts that hold down the egr base plate,, they will be pretty tight for some reason.

    lift it off the egr base plate,, aluminum plate with two holes for the throttle body butterfly valves.

    look for carbon,, clean up / remove / chip away the old gasket off the top of the intake manifold.

    Install everything in reverse,, use a real real thin layer of clear silicone to the egr base plate gasket,, the paper one. Helps seal incase there is a slight warpage to the plate or thorttle body. The thick one seals itself,, thick meaning about 3/8'' thick.

    hold off on the air cleaner install for a moment,,,
    Hook up the fuel lines
    undo the entire fuel pres test fitting and lay it to the side. rig up something to catch gas unless you dont mind the mess.
    You could lay a "white" bath towel just in that area to help absorb the gas.

    Turn the key forward **not start** and , fuel pump kicks in,, gas will rush out the fitting hole,,, you will have to listen to the fuel pump ,, when it stops,, turn the key off.,,, wait to hear a click,, turn the key forward again,, and more gas should come out,, repeat this several times, to flush out the top side of the fuel injectors and the throttle body. does the "white" towel have any little specs of dirt?

    connect everything back up and take it out for a ride. You should still have the high idle which may be a different issue all together but fixable.

    Make sure you tighten the trottle body in an "X" patern as you snug down each nut. snug them good but be carfull not to break one of the ears off like i did a long while ago. I tightened them too tight when the moter was cold,,, the heat must have swelled the gasket and put a ton of stress on the cfi .
    __________________________________________________ ___________
    fuel injector cleaning
    remove the cfi from intake
    split the cfi in half via three phillups bolts from the bottom.
    ,, removed the lower injector retainer (be careful on the screw or you will be taping a new hole).

    gently pull the injector out (keep track of your smaller orings).

    take a pointed tip screw start this screw into the brass bushing just at the top of the injector until it started to grab real good.

    grab the screw with pliers and pulled real hard and out pops the injector screen that is molded to the brass bushing.

    spray the injector screen assy down with starting fluid or something.

    Next, blast it with the air compressor.

    insert the screen assy back into the top of the injectors,, turn the injector upside down and tap it on the workbench which will seat the brass bushing part back in its seat.

    re-install the injectors and man does make a difference.

    the screen assy is only about a half inch long and about 3/16 in diameter. Pretty fragile looking also. I re-shaped the screen on one becase it was a bit sucked together. I re-shaped it with a small ink pen insert.

    timing chain slack measure
    a breaker bar, extention, socket is needed.
    rotate the crank the OPPOSITE direction it spins while running.
    rotate it until your harmonic lines up with ZERO deg TDC
    you have to be exact on where you stop so make sure its at zero.
    now, move the crank the the normal running direction very slowly
    this should be kind of where the easy / sweet spot is.
    continue moving the crank in the normal rotating direction slowly!!!
    suddenly it will get hard to move and you must have a good feel for it!!!
    this is the stop / go no further point!!!
    thats where the rotor button should start to move if you have the dist cover off.
    now,, look at the timing indicator and the harmonic
    jot down the number on the harmonic that the pointer is telling you.
    repeat the test a few times then average them up for the final slop reading.

    My car had 300k and the slack was present for 2/3 of that time so these 3.8's
    can take some abuse so its up to you.
    i dont know what is good or bad,,,just voice what you have found and
    determine if you need a new chain/gear set or not.


    dash removal
    I am sure by now you have the outter dash cover dressing off.
    you should have the clear face plate off to.
    you should now have 4 torx head scews out that hold the dash assy in place.

    The white chord thing is the column shifter indicator cable.
    you can either ...
    a. turn the dash face cover sideways and out of the way
    ***put the col shifter all the way down.
    ***your tilt wheel should be tilted down.
    b. remove the very small screw on the back that holds it.
    you will have to manage to unhook the cable loop
    attached to the selector on the rear,*watch out and
    dont loose that little spring.

    once the above is done you can reach in the back of the dash assy and squeeze the both ends of the conn which will release the conn keepers and let them pull out. I found it easier to bust a couple of factory zip ties / tape to allow the harness assy to pull further out. After all of the above,, the dash will come out and you can get to both bulbs on the top of the speedo. you can also take the time to test the rest of the bulbs. the sockets insert from the rear and are twist lock. If a bulb is intermittant, remove the socket,, pry up on each contact that you see looking into the the socket hole. If you just want to verify bulbs,, turn your head lights on and the dash will light up. some of the bulbs are hard to get to cause they are just that way. Use a rubber hose to slip over the bulb, pull straight out and insert bulb in an easy to get to location. Re-insert bulb into the old socket --if its good-- and twist your rubber hose CCW to get the hose off the bulb.

    good luck,, the hardest part is getting the dash cover off and to the side.

    tps test throttle position sensor
    1 location-- vertical mounted on pass side of CFI with org/blk/grn wires.
    Probe the green wire with positive lead of a meter and ground out
    the black lead of your meter.

    2 turn ign sw on ,, no start

    3 the voltage reading on your meter should be around .5-.9 vdc.

    4 operate the throttle linkage very very very slowly and note increase in voltage. Your increase should be smooth with no jumping and it should top out at around 4.6 vdc.

    It is best to use an analog (needle type) meter when doing this step because it will detect flat or open spots on the variable resiseter (tps) better than the digital types.
    you can bench test the tps buy hooking up to the green and black then black to org and measuring resistance and the two readings should match. The green wire is the center tap of the variable resistor. The resistance reading will be proportional to what you see in dc volts.

    if you find your low end voltage is at or above one volt,, use a chainsaw file to file out the mounting holes so that you can mount and adjust the tps CCw to achieve the "less than a volt" goal.

    when installing the tps,, lay it in place but slightly clockwise,, seat the tps then rotate it ccw to line up the mounting screws. There is a little pin up in the likage that will put your tps in a bind if you dont do this correctly. You cant just lay it on and bolt it down any old way.

    leak down tester
    cut the end off that cheap foot pump used on bike tires that already has a 0-100 guage on it already.

    snag that one long adaptor piece off the end of your compression tester (the longer metal adaptor that works on your car)

    find a hose that you can force over the hex end of that adaptor and clamp it.

    Now splice the bike hose to your compression adaptor hose and fill that cylinder with air. You could use the 12vdc type also if you lazy like me.

    watch the guage and see/compare how it drops in psi with reguard to time.

    __________________________________________________ _
    speedo mod
    remove dash trim (keep yoru shifter in low gear to access screws easy)
    remove the lower dash cover just below the column.
    remove covers on steering column
    have wheel tilt all the way down
    undo the plastic clear dash cover (a few 5/16 screws)
    remove the dash cluster assy (four torx screws-use log magnet to retrive uppper ones)
    undo two connectors on the rear of cluster(may have to pop zip ties to add cable slack)
    undo the little flat conn on the rt just below the amp meter
    pull cluster forward as far as you can
    there is a white looking cable going to the rear of the cluster
    follow white cable up to cluster and undo rt side of the little gear shift spring
    unhook the gear shift cable which is looped onto the a groove
    remove the tiny screw that holds the shifter cable to the cluster.
    remove cluster and relocate yourself to a work bench area
    remove a couple of bulbs so the center flex print circuit can be layed to the side
    remove three screws that hold speedo on the cluster
    pry speedo open at the two clips you see holding it together
    open speedo assy
    gently slip off the 2 left and 2 right circuit card jumper connectors (blue)
    look for a place on the lower board called "W2"
    W2 will be located in a row of other markings ,, RB1, RB2 ect.
    Add (solder)a wire jumper there at w2 and reinstall speedo assy
    reinstall cluster and temp hook up rear two connectors
    test the speedo,, could jack up the rear of the car and test speed that way.
    reinstall everything back to where it was.
    you now will be able to see the speedo increase past 85mph.

    Troubleshooting the Digital Speedo
    Hold the Trip Reset button in
    turn the ign switch to run
    advance through the tests by pressing trip reset
    a steady tone and a "P" on the display says it passed.
    first display will have
    54 in upper left and step number 1 in upper right, P in the center
    here are the displays for a passing speedo

    54 1 P
    78 2 P
    E4 3 P or F
    nothing 4 P or F
    nothing 5 P or F
    nothing 6 P or F
    nothing 7 P or F
    1p 8 P or F

    display test prove out is step 9
    Tach/Multi guage diagnostic

    all codes are Hexadecimal format and can range from 00 to FF (binary 0000 to 11111111)or (decimal 0 - 128) . While active in the various modes, they can be used as a "wiggle test" to check for shorts and intermittant circuits. Anyway,, display will be in hex format.

    hold the guages button in and turn the ign key to RUN
    Advance through the tests by pressing the guages button.
    A steady Tone and 8 bars lit is a passing test
    No tone with 24 bars lit is a fail

    To enter the Fuel computer self test
    Press and hold the Select button atleast 5 or so seconds until the test display appears then advance thru the tests by pressing on Select over again.

    O2 sensor check
    start car
    set meter to ******** AC ****** yep, i said AC.
    ground out black meter lead anywhere logical
    prob o2 sensor conn, should read about .3 to .5 volts ******* AC***
    with the meter lead somehow secure on the conn, increase the throttle by hand.
    the ac reading should increase to about .9 VAC.
    repeat test for the other o2 sensor.

    Gutting Catalytic
    disconnect main large car from exhaust sys
    pound a long pipe,pry bar or what ever with a hammer in side to bust out stuff.
    empty everything out.
    when you get to something that looks like wire mesh,,,,your pretty much done.
    re-install gutted cat and enjoy.
    3.8L v6 engines will experience minor back presure issues.

    Map sensor check
    Apply vac pres of about 15lbs to the map, if it holds vac, move on to next step

    Key on engine off test
    map sensor signal output is the DB/LG wire
    **compare output of like maps and average thier outputs if possible per the shop manual
    **your altitude is proportional to the barometric presure which the map works off of.

    altitude in ft / voltage

    If output is in range compared to other maps the move on

    Plug off map vac line
    apply a few lbs vac to map, like 5 to 8
    start engine
    slowly apply 15lbs vac and hold about 1500 rpm
    while in this test, run the KOER quick test
    are any map codes present? (ie-22) if no, then your problem is not the map, its another vac related issue.

    No Spark
    possible faults
    tfi, stator, coil, ballast or wire broken, ing switch, dizzy does not rotate, list goes on.

    pull all plugs and check gap, carbon and cracks ect and reinstall
    pull dizzy cap off and clean interior contacts with a not so agressive emery cloth
    do the same for the rotor button
    bend center rotor button tab upwards slightly so it makes contact with the dizzy cap button
    put things back together

    turn ign sw on and find 12v at the electrical conn on the coil.
    insert test light on primary of coil and ground other side of test light
    crank engine and look for a flashing light (indicates power and control of power from eec)
    remove coil wire from dizzy side only and insert a spark plug
    secure plug so no spark can damage electronics by tieing up with a string from the hood
    run a wire from the car frame and to the treads on the spark plug for a ground
    crank engine and look for "BLUE" spark.
    replace coil wire input to the dizzy
    remove any easy to get to plug wire from engine and tie up spark plug and wire with string
    ground the threads on the spark plug to the engine body
    crank engine and look for Blue spark,,, check a couple of wires to compare
    if you have failed to have spark, move on to TFI and STATOR check

    No spark, TFI CONN check
    *******(our count will be from the bottom up as the conn is in its normal
    mounted position for this test)***********
    disconnect "s" terminal of starter relay
    disconnect the TFI conn
    the pos meter lead will be inserted in the below terminals with the ground cliped to dissy base
    the ign switch will be rotated to obtain voltage readings
    voltage readings **must be** at least 90% battery voltage
    its obvious now why we disconnected the slip on boot red wire from starter relay : )

    terminal circuit ID ign sw position
    2 to ign coil (-) terminal RUN
    3 run circuit RUN and START
    4 start circuit START

    Coil Check
    meter set to ohms, car off, undo plug wire and input conn
    measure from small pin to small pin and expect .3 to 1.0 ohms
    ***things to remember when using your digital meter. when you turn on you meter and set it to ohms, your meter may have a reading without touching anything yet. Remember to subtact your UNCALIBRATED meter reading from your coil reading above. A properly calibrated meter should be all zero's upon selecting ohms. Since this is almost a direct short we are reading here,, you meter being off will only complicate your troubleshooting.***

    measure from on small pin to the plug wire post and expect 8000 to 11000 ohms.
    1987shop manual calls for these ..6500-11500 is a good coil
    less than 6500 or greater than 11500 is bad

    remove the electrical connection from the coil.
    remove the coil wire from the distributor and insert a spark plug in it
    ground out the spark plug threads to the one of the strut bolts (wire tie it down).
    run a jumper wire from the battery positve to the coil where the red wire was hooked.
    run a jumper from the battery ground and tap the other end to a strut tower bolt.
    just tap the ground wire to ground a few times and you will see spark happen on the plug.
    you might need to gap the plug a little narrower than normal to get a consistant spark.
    the coil may skip a spark here and there but its because of the charge your putting on it.
    as you tap the ground jumper and you see spark, you have confirmed the coil operates.

    ***it would be best to do this test as soon as you stop your car incase its
    a heat related type problem.

    stator check
    remove coil spark plug wire and ground it
    remove sprout conn
    ground neg meter lead to dizzy base
    connect pos meter leat to TFI side of sprout conn
    bump engine over to obtain voltage reading
    repeat several times
    for a digital meter, allow display to stabalize between tests

    does voltage average out to be at least 90% battery voltage? = stator good

    does voltage average out to be less than 90% battery voltage? = stator bad

    Its possible the tfi is bad and allow fuel to injectors. For 20 seconds a bad tfi will allow fuel injectors to pulse. after that they will not pulse if the tfi is bad.

    with the key off, there should be no voltage at any wires on the TFI connector. Prob with stick pin.
    with the key on,, there will be power on the 4th and 5th wire going from top down.

    remove the small red wire from starter solenoid on the fender well to prevent starting.
    while the key is held to the start position
    power is found on the wires 3,4 and 5 counting from top down.
    if no power is found at this point,, its a wiring problem.

    place the key in the run position and remove coil plug wire
    tap into the 5th wire down on the TFI with a stick pin/jumpe wire
    ground out the 5th wire just quickly enough to see spark, dont hold ground and damage a good TFI.
    If no spark is found on the grounded 5th wire, check for 12v at the input of the coil.
    if power is found,, then test or swap the coil.

    Hold your TFI module in your hand just as it were mounted in your Dizzy.
    There will three pins on the top pointing up. The large 6 pin conn will be to your right.
    the three pins on the top count from left to right *D1 D2 D3*
    the six pin conn count top down H1 H2 H3 H4 H5 H6

    (the 87 shop manual has the count starting from the bottom up, com tech
    section counts them from top down. use the top down method for this procedure)

    the metal base is called "base"
    now that the parts of the TFI are identified,, trouble shoot in ohms by the chart below

    D1 to H1 12.8K
    D1 to H2 17.4K
    D1 to H3 1000
    D1 to H4 11.5K
    D1 to H5 4.2K
    D1 to H6 0.0K
    D2 to H1 1.2K
    D2 to H2 5.8K
    D2 to H3 12.6K
    D2 to H4 100
    D2 to H5 15.8K
    D2 to H6 11.6K
    D3 to H1 100
    D3 to H2 4.7K
    D3 to H3 13.7K
    D3 to H4 1200
    D3 to H5 16.9K
    D3 to H6 12.7K
    D1 to D2 11.5K
    D1 to D3 12.6K
    D2 to D3 1100
    D1 to BASE 0.0K
    D2 to BASE 12K
    D3 to BASE 13.1K
    fuel injector id
    Per the '87 Ford Emissions manual the '84-'87 3.8 CFI uses a green top 37lb inj. The std 5.0 CFI got 46lb blue top inj. while the HO 5.0('84-'85 Mustang automatics)got a grey top 52lb inj. --- by turbocoupe50

    Spindal wear and tear on high mileage (symptom-vibration or noise with new front end parts)

    remove Tire, Caliper,Rotor
    Clean spindal off of any greese
    look for a circular wear pattern where the inner race of the inner bearing would be normally (the flat inner area just prior to the uphill tapper).
    If for some reason the inner race was able to freespin (as time goes on), it will wear down the spindal.
    no matter how much you tighten the spindal nut, the inner bearing "inner race" is not tappered so its not adjustable. If they were, your shaft is tappered to compensate for this but for some reason the inner race is fairly parallel with the spindal shaft.
    Under normal circumstances, the inner race of the actual bearing does not spin (meaning does not spin against the spindal / no friction) but it will eventually cut loose.
    If you reinstall your wheel without the caliper on and still feel side to side play, the spindal is worn.
    Use "shim stock" on the spindal assy or something real thin that will put the spindal and inner race in a bind when the rotor is installed.

    Here is what i did
    Shim stock is fairly easy to find and comes in .001 to .003 inches or so. I discovered that its pretty much like foil but better than aluminum foil. I found that the regular cooking aluminum foil is .001 and the thicker bar-b-que foil is about .003.
    I cut out a piece of the .003 foil in a piece that was 1/4'' wide and 1 inch long.
    I layed it on the spindal in the "wear band" area longways. There will be a tapper in the spindal right about in this area so you will sort of form it to the angle of the spindal. Dont wrap it around the spindal but lay it on so it ends up perpendicular to the inner bearing race.

    Reinstall your inner seal after you add new grease and such.
    slide your rotor up and you will feel the inner bearing get into a bind.
    When this happens, add your spindal nut/washer to finish pressing on the rotor.

    this worked perfect for me and its actually an accepted technique in machine shops for various "shaft" repair work.
    You should actually purchase some shim stock but i used this instead.
    you might have trouble getting this to work and your wear might require a larger or smaller piece so play around with it.

    Its my belief that if you ever wondered way the rotor nut seems to be going on further and further,, its probably because your spindal is worn. Ever notice that the force it takes to get the nut tight in order to install the cotter pin becomes easier and easier,? spindal wear for sure.


    head cam piston info


    The only really good 351 heads are the '69 & '70 heads. All the later ones are basically the same as their 302/5.0 brothers. As a fact the E7TEs are truck heads and were also used on the 351..

    Basically the SO 5.0 uses a different firing order(could rewire the inj to get around this), and cannot handle the extra fuel the HO computer and injectors would supply. It could be done with a computer from a '91 Calif Crown Vic. Those SO 5.0s did have mass air.


    The best stock heads for your car would be the GT40 or Gt40P heads, and then the E7TE's.
    The problem with the GT40 heads is that they are a bit hard to find (only found on 93-95 Mustang Cobras and a few mid-90's F-150's with the 351W engines) and command a good price, while the GT40P's can be had off any 97-2000 V8 Exploder/Mountainer, which should be a pretty easy and cheap score. Also, the Explorer/Mounty 5.0's have great-performing upper/lower intakes, and a 65mm throttle body that can be modified to work on the older 5.0's, if you are ever interested in getting into SEFI. A whole explorer engine would be one hell of a nice alternative that to finding a good Stang/Mark engine. The only problem with it is that it has the wrong oil pan, front timing cover, serpentine belt brackets, and a distributerless ignition. As long as you can find a roller cam distributer, and the front end accessories and timing cover off the older 5.0's (F-150 5.0 trucks of the late 80's had the same front accessory brackets as the 5.0 SEFI T-Bird engines; should be easier to find in the boneyards) you should be all set. The oil pan off your current 5.0 should be double hump, and can be used on the Explorer engine.

    The problem with the GT40P heads is that they require a special header, and the headers costs $270 from Ford Racing (mac also makes a set, but the Fords are Stainless Steel, which makes the extra $50 for them worth every penny). That makes the P head not so much of a steal as it is thought to be.

    Also, the GT40 and GT40P heads run larger valves than the E7TE's and your stock heads, which may require you to flycut or just replace your pistons in order to have proper piston-to-valve clearance. If that's the case, then perhaps the E7's are the best choice for you. They are truely a dime a dozen, and easy as hell to find (all 87-96 5.0 F-150s, all 87-92 Lincoln Mk7's, and all 87-93 Mustang 5.0's have them standard). Very good performers too. I use the E7's on my T-bird. They can support a very good amount of power when ported. Best of all, they shouldn't require any flycutting of the pistons or expensive exhaust upgrades.

    On a closing note, you say your engine is an 84 right? well, the crappy heads for the 5.0 engines have always been the "E6" heads (used on all 86 and up 5.0 SO engines). Since those heads were made in 1986, your car can't possibly have those heads, which leaves me to wonder what heads you do have. I wonder if your 5.0 uses the same head castings as the 85 mustang? If that's the case, then those old castings are just as good as the E7 heads. Perhaps you don't need a head upgrade. Can anyone verify this? Turbocoupe50? Anybody? --joefriday

    When I said $3k CDN wasn't going to do it, I meant for like 325hp. If you don't rush and wait for some deals, it should be possible to get 275+hp on a tight budget.

    To be able to use a decent HP cam/head combo you're gonna need pistons with valve relifs. The SO 5.0 has none, the only head that works with stock pistons(other than the E6s) are the Twisted Wedges (yea I have 'em). Is your engine really ready for a rebuild or do you just want to have a fresh base to start with?? I've seen many 5.0s with over 100K mi that were fine for another 100K. I personally know a guy with a '88 Bird that has 317K mi. with only a timing chain replacement(yea its getting tired).

    These heads are gonna require notched pistons(Possibly can use the E7s with a stock HO cam, but you hp is gonna be limited). To make any kind of real HP you're gonna need at least some PORTED E7 Mustang heads(do a web search for "Power Heads"). A step up are the GT40 irons, with a little porting they perform really well. Since aluminum heads are all the rage these days, they are usually available used for around $250-$350(US). Also get a set of roller rocker arms.

    Next up would be cam... I have the small Trick Flow cam in mine, but its a little much for the everyday driver. Something like the Ford Racing "E" cam will idle better(there are also a lot of other choices).

    Now you're gonna need a intake. Probably the best for the least money will be the Explorer unit(requires drilling for the ACT sensor). May be able to pick up a Cobra setup if you are lucky. Also get a 65mm throttle body while you are at it. Here you could use a Mustang HO upper and throttle body, then up grade later.

    You'll need better engine management with the engine mods, so you'll want a Mustang Mass Air Computer and 19 lb injectors. If you decide to just go stock HO, a Mustang Speed Densety setup would be fine.

    Exaust system is next.. aftermarket is best again, but you could get by with Stock Mustang headers and a 2 1/4" system(2 1/2" is better). Jegs has a Hooker system that works nicely, but as with all Mustang exaust will require a bit of massaging to make fit.

    Then there all the little pieces that add up in price, lifters, adj fuel pressure reg, better fuel pump, etc. Then there are things like better rear gears and higher stall converter for the tranny. Plain and simple...Horse Power ain't cheap. Keep a eye on the Corral and ebay for deals. ==turbocoupe50

    so is there a mark made in 87 with e7's? ==jcassity
    OK here's how it works... Only the LSC versions of the Mark-VII had the HO. A Bill Blass(or any other) version got the std 150HP SO 5.0(this is true up till '89 or so). Any LSC built in '87 that has the HO with E7 heads would be titled as a '88. The engine ID in the VIN number also changed from "M" ('86-'87) to "E" ('88-up). For the Mustang, HO engine code change from "M" to "E" beginnig with the '87 models... turbocoupe50

    To retain the speed densety system the '87-'88 Mustang EEC is a plug in, no other changes necessary. The LSC computer can also be used, but the '88 up has a speed limiter.
    The '87 SO 5.0 engine should already have a roller cam installed. No its not the same as the HO, so you'll still want to swap cams.
    The SO engine will have flat top pistons without valve relifs, so the HO cam and heads are the limit without notching the pistons. The Trick Flow Twisted Wedges work great without notching thiough.

    I'm not really sure what the chambers cc out at, but I'm thinkin' both HO and SO are in the 62-65cc range.-- turbocoupe50

    Camshaft Engineering Info (Special thanks to V8demon / thunder306 / Pauly on the board)

    """"Found this posted on another website. the site is
    Lots of good engine knowledge there. I totally disagree with their (and most peoples') misconceptions about Speed Density and that you cannot run a bigger cam and injectors (When in the name of all that exists will that MYTH end?). This is, however THE MOST THOROUGH camshaft article I've read when it comes to fundamentals. Here it is:"""""

    RAMPS The parts of a camshaft lobe that actually initiate the lifting and descending movement of the lifter are called
    “ramps”. Ramps include the lash ramp, the opening ramp, and the closing ramp. Camshaft lobe ramps are ground to
    have different rates of lifter movement in terms of velocity and degrees of duration, as measured in degrees of crankshaft

    The “lash ramp” of a camshaft lobe is a mid-point location between
    the opening ramp and closing ramp.
    The “opening ramp” of a camshaft lobe is the point where the
    lifter just begins to lift until the point that it reaches the nose of the

    The “closing ramp” is the point of the camshaft lobe from the nose
    back down to the lash ramp

    NOSE The “nose” of a camshaft lobe is the top or the highest maximum
    lift point for the valve. It is where valves are kept open for
    as long as possible before making the transition to the closing

    BASE CIRCLE The “base circle”, also known as the “heel”, is the
    lowest point of the camshaft lobe and is the place where the valve
    is in the closed position. The “base circle” is the point where all
    valve lash settings are made.

    SYMMETRICAL is a term that refers to the “profiles” of the opening
    and closing ramps of a camshaft lobe. All “early technology”
    camshafts were ground on a symmetrical design, meaning both
    sides are exactly the same. That is to say the profile of the closing
    ramp is a “mirror image” of the opening ramp.

    ASYMMETRICAL refers to a camshaft lobe profile where the opening
    and closing ramps are not exactly the same. The reason some
    camshafts are this way is to try to achieve an opening ramp profile
    that has a high velocity and a closing ramp profile that has a
    slower velocity. In this way the valve can be set down more “gently”
    than the rate at which it was first opened.

    A DUAL PATTERN camshaft has an intake lobe profile design that
    differs from that of the exhaust lobe profile design. For example,
    camshaft “A” has intake lobes of 260º duration while the exhaust
    lobes are 270ºduration. Camshaft “B”, has intake and exhaust
    lobes that are both at 260º. Camshaft “A” is referred to as a dual
    pattern, while camshaft “B” is referred to as a single pattern.

    With the advent of emissions laws and the widespread use of computer
    systems, more modern single and dual profile pattern
    designs have been developed. A dual pattern camshaft is ground
    to “bias” the duration of either the intake or exhaust lobe. For
    example, if an engine is restricted on the exhaust side, compared
    to the intake side, the camshaft designer would try to compensate
    by grinding in more lift and/or duration on the exhaust lobe.

    The following table defines the abbreviations
    the bottom or top of its stroke:

    TDC Top dead center
    BDC Bottom dead center
    ATDC After top dead center
    BTDC Before top dead center
    ABDC After bottom dead center
    BBDC Before bottom dead center

    Lift refers to maximum valve lift. This is how much the valve
    is “lifted” off its seat at the cam lobe’s highest point.

    How is it measured?
    Valve Lift is the amount (usually in inches) that the valve is
    lifted off of its seat. It is usually measured with a dial indicator
    at the tip of the valve. Lobe Lift is the amount (usually in
    inches) that the cam lobe increases in radius above the cam
    base circle.

    Tip: To quickly find maximum lobe lift, measure the base circle
    of the cam and subtract it from the thickness across the cam
    lobe’s highest point (see the diagram below).

    Tip: Maximum valve lift can be calculated by multiplying the
    maximum lobe lift times the rocker ratio. For example, a
    0.310” lobe lift cam yields 0.496” of valve lift when using a 1.6
    ratio rocker arm.

    Formula: valve lift = lobe lift x rocker ratio

    What does it do?

    The intake and exhaust valves need to open to let air/fuel in and exhaust out of the cylinders. Generally,
    opening the valves quicker and further will increase engine output. Increasing valve lift, without increasing
    duration, can yield more power without much change to the nature of the power curve. However, an
    increase in valve lift almost always is accompanied by an increase in duration. This is because ramps are
    limited in their shape which is directly related to the type of lifters being used, such as flat or roller.


    Duration is the angle in crankshaft degrees that the valve stays off its seat during the lifting cycle of the
    cam lobe.

    How is it measured?

    Advertised duration is the angle in crankshaft degrees that the cam follower is lifted more than a predetermined
    amount (the SAE standard is 0.006”) off of its seat. Duration @.050” is a measurement of the
    movement the cam follower, in crankshaft degrees, from the point where it’s first lifted .050” off the base
    circle on the opening ramp side of the camshaft lobe, to the point where it ends up being .050” from the
    base circle on the closing ramp side of the camshaft lobe. This is the industry standard, and is a good value
    to use to compare cams from different manufacturers. Both are usually measured with a dial indicator and a
    degree wheel.

    What does it do?

    Increasing duration keeps the valve open longer, and can increase high-rpm power. Doing so increases the
    RPM range that the engine produces power. Increasing duration without a change in lobe separation angle
    will result in increased valve overlap.


    Lobe separation is the angle in camshaft
    degrees between the maximum lift
    points of the intake and exhaust valves.
    It is the result of the placement of the
    intake and exhaust lobes on the camshaft.

    How is it measured?
    Lobe separation can be measured using a dial
    indicator and a degree wheel, but is usually
    calculated by dividing the sum of the intake
    centerline and the exhaust centerline by two.

    What does it do?
    Lobe separation affects valve overlap, which affects the nature of the power curve, idle quality, idle vacuum,

    Overlap is the angle in crankshaft degrees that both the intake and exhaust valves are open. This occurs
    at the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the intake stroke. Increasing lift duration and/or
    decreasing lobe separation increases overlap.

    How is it measured?
    Overlap can be calculated by adding the exhaust closing and the intake opening points. For example, a
    cam with an exhaust closing at 4º ATDC and an intake opening of 8º BTDC has 12º of overlap.

    But keep in mind that since these timing figures are at 0.050” of valve lift, this therefore is overlap at
    0.050.” A better way to think about overlap is the area that both lift curves overlap, rather than just the
    crankshaft angle that both valves are open. Therefore, one can see that decreasing the lobe separation
    only a few degrees can have a huge effect on overlap area.

    What does it do?
    At high engine speeds, overlap allows the rush of exhaust gasses out the exhaust valve to help pull the
    fresh air/fuel mixture into the cylinder through the intake valve. Increased engine speed enhances the
    effect. Increasing overlap increases top-end power and reduces low-speed power and idle quality.

    The intake centerline is the point of highest lift on the intake lobe. It is expressed in crankshaft degrees
    after top dead center (ATDC). Likewise the exhaust centerline is the point of highest lift on the exhaust
    lobe. . It is expressed in crankshaft degrees before top dead center (BTDC). The cam centerline is the point
    halfway between the intake and exhaust centerlines.

    Advancing or retarding the camshaft moves the engine’s torque band around the RPM scale by moving the valve
    events further ahead or behind the movement of the piston. Typically, a racer will experiment with advancing or
    retarding a cam from “straight up” and see what works best for their application. Lunati camshafts are ground to
    provide maximum performance and are designed to be installed to the specifications listed on the cam card.

    How is it measured?
    A cam with a 107º intake lobe centerline will actually
    be centered at 103º ATDC when installed 4º

    Some camshafts have a certain amount of
    advance “ground in. “Ground-in advance” can also
    be found by subtracting the intake lobe centerline
    from the lobe separation.

    What does it do?
    Advance improves low-end power and response. For a
    general summary of the affects of camshaft timing,
    refer to the following table:

    begins intake event sooner
    opens intake valve sooner
    builds more low-end torque
    decreases piston-to-intake-valve clearance
    increases piston-to-exhaust-valve clearance

    delays intake event
    opens intake valve later
    builds more high-end power
    increases piston-to-intake-valve clearance
    decreases piston-to-exhaust-valve clearance



    The cam lifter (also called a “follower” or “tappet”) is the component that makes direct contact with the
    cam lobes and “follows” the profile of the cam. There are generally four types of lifters:

    Hydraulic Flat Tappet

    The hydraulic flat tappet is self-adjusting, due to the valve controlled plunger within the tappet body. It
    operates to pre-load the push-rod by using the oil system pressure to maintain this pre-load in the closed
    valve position. Hydraulic tappets are quieter than mechanical tappet lifters since there is no lash or freeplay.
    However, it is generally agreed that they fall short of offering optimum performance above 6,000 -
    6,500 RPM. Many cheaper designs fall even shorter than this. This poor performance at high RPM is due
    mainly to the inability of the lifter to “bleed down” the excessive oil pressure , and thus does not allow the
    valves to seat.

    Mechanical Flat Tappet

    The mechanical (solid) tappet is essentially a solid “link” between the cam lobe, and the push-rod. In most
    cases it is a simple heat-treated cylinder with a radiused contact face. It allows more RPM potential than
    that of the hydraulic tappet since there are no worries about the inability of the lifter to “bleed down.”
    Solid lifters do, however require lash or clearance to allow for part expansion as the engine heats up.

    Mechanical Roller Tappet

    The mechanical (solid) roller tappet allows for the most aggressive lobe designs. Roller tappets allow faster,
    “steeper” opening and closing ramps. This allows the cam to produce more lift for a given duration. They
    are not limited to a particular lifter diameter to obtain higher cam lifts. They also contain a roller that
    reduces friction between cam and followers. Roller cams require the use of higher valve spring forces
    making high engine speeds (over 10,000 RPM’s) possible.

    Hydraulic Roller Tappet

    The hydraulic roller tappet camshaft can provide the best of both worlds. Diesel engines and some motor
    cycle engines have used this design for many years. They provide most of the virtues of a solid mechanical
    roller tappet while providing the benefits of quiet operation and ease of valve lash setting.
    This type of design still has the limitations of an oil bleed-off control type follower. If your application
    requires high RPM potential you should use a solid roller tappet design.

    Roller or Falt Tappet?

    Manufacturers and racers have used flat tappet camshaft systems over the years with great success. However,
    manufacturers and racers favor roller tappet cams (when rules permit their use) because roller cam designs have
    distinct advantages over flat tappet designs:

    Sliding frictional forces are higher than rolling frictional forces. Therefore, a roller cam takes less horsepower to
    turn and generally does not wear out as quickly. An added benefit is that roller tappets do not require replacement
    when changing cams. And, if “pop-up” solid roller tappets are used (such as P/N 72840), the camshaft
    can be swapped without removing the intake manifold.

    If a cam profile has more “area under
    the curve,” it has the potential to make
    more power. Roller profiles can be more
    “aggressive” and accelerate the tappet
    more than a flat tappet profile.

    Flat tappet profiles can only be shaped
    up to the point where the tappet “digs
    into” the profile. Roller tappet profiles
    are not limited by this condition-so
    much that even “inverted radius” profiles
    are possible.

    This benefits engine performance in two
    ways: more tappet lift can be achieved
    without the added duration that would
    normally be required to “ramp up” a flat
    tappet to the added lift-making the lift
    curve more “pointy”; the lift curve can
    be made “broader” without increasing
    lift. Of course, both of these benefits can
    be combined to create a profile that can
    easily outperform flat tappet cams.

    Unfortunately, roller camshaft systems
    cost more than a flat tappet cam and
    lifters. Much of the added cost is due to
    the lifters. However, roller tappets can be
    re-used, where as flat tappets cannot not
    be re-used. If you tear down your engines
    frequently, the rollers can be used over
    and over again provided they are not
    damaged or show signs of wear.

    Thats all for now

    Torque converters
    Guys here's the deal on converters. A higher stall speed increases you engine rpms(especially in the lower gears), so you in the power band quicker. Say you engine makes 50hp@1500, 70hp@2000, 95hp@2500, 110@3000, 125hp@3500 145@4000 etc. OK it has to lug its way up to get to the higher RPMs where its making more hp. If you increase the stall say 800 rpm from 1600 to 2400, then the off line acceleration is gonna feel like 90 hp instead of only 50(plus the torque is being mutliplied at a quicker rate which is really what a torque converters job is anyway). You don't want to go crazy with a big stall on a low revving engine, but about any stock car can be improved with a 500-800 higher stall.

    Now the lockup is a feature only on the AODs used in the Fox Birds/Cougs(and this is only for AODs, other OD trannys are different). What it does is provide a 60% lockup in third(direct drive), and full lockup in OD. What this means is there is only a 40% torque multiplication in third and none in OD. This is why low hp cars feel so lazy in the higher gears. The lockup feature can be deleted(non lockup converter) but for a 99% street car I'd recommend keeping it(I have) as the cruse ability will not be affected.

    Measure backlash of rear diff to axle
    lock pass wheel and raise driver rear wheel
    find a cheap ruler that has a hole on one end
    locate the CENTER of your wheel and lightly mark the spot
    slid a nail through the ruler and let the point touch your center mark
    hold the nail and let the ruler come to a stop as it acts as a pendulum and does not rub nothing
    12'' from the center of your wheel is the key here so a ruler makes things easy
    rotate the driver rear wheel CW till it stops
    mark the wheel in the background of the ruler looking directly onto the left edge of the ruler
    rotate the driver rear wheel CCW till it stops
    mark the wheel in the background of the ruler looking directly onto the left edge of the ruler
    now you should have two marks if you were able to not distrub the ruler and mark the wheel
    measure the distance between the marks,, ford calls out for no more than 1'' or 25.4mm

    Today I pulled the 8.8 out of my '88 TC parts car and put it on the bathroom scale
    (it's accurate) complete with brakes but no mooseballs. - 175 lbs.
    Then I weighed the 7.5 drum brake axle from an '85 stang that I threw
    in the car to keep it rolling. 145 lbs. Sure, there's no quad shock brackets and
    they're 1.5" shorter than a cougar axle but that's as close as I could come.
    Probably only a 3-5 lb difference between a stang 7,5 and a Cougar 7.5 due to the
    length and brackets anyway.
    That's a 30 lb difference, all day long

    i picked the f150 diff for a few reasons
    i'm useing a 8.8 mustang rear with a F150 31spline diff inside the housing..
    most of the other name brand diffs are a lot of money and most of them are very in the case of the alburn diff and alburn pro.. these are reasonably priced..but!! and i know what i'm about to say some people would parden the pun"beg to diff"anyway they are known to brake i have seen a number of them busted.. alburn and the alburn pro. and the funny thing is i've seen more busted alburn pro's i guess they can't get the temper in the steal right.. but i'm still not saying their junk but here are the reasons i did'nt go with the an alburn diff or any others..1 price price price 2 in the case of the alburn all of the ones i saw busted where in cars with motors that had the same or more horse power as mine..3 when a alburn is busted it can't be fixed you will need to buy a new one which again cost big money..
    now with the case of the F150 diff and why i picked it is.. 1 i spent only about $800.00 to have it set up parts inclued.and that allso inclued the moser axles and that is at New York prices and 2 when the diff needs to be rebuilt"clutch pack" it only cost about $100.00 for the parts..3 i can do it my can replace the clutchs with out taking out the whole diff and don't have to worry about reshiming it..
    so far it's bin two years and it's still going strong..

    I found something unexpected when I replaced my stock Ford T-Loc with an Eaton E-Locker this past year. The shims on either side of the differential carrier are one piece (for each side of the carrier) ground at the factory based on some statisics as to how the carrier tolerances are running at a particular time (best I can determine). The problem I found was that the material they make the shim pieces out of is some sort of cheap soft metal that is susceptible to permanent deformation by the shock forces normally applied by a good running motor with a nice snappy throttle response. What does this mean in reality? Well, my shims were worn more on one side of the carrier and they were worn such that they were NO LONGER parallel to the carrier (diagonal wear). This was due to the way the force during acceleration is applied to the carrier and then to the housing through the shims. It was obvious to me after taking the unit apart that the shim material from Ford was TOO SOFT and this clearly allowed EXCESSIVE SLOP in the differential carrier. I wont go so far as to say that this is why many of these units clunk, but I will say that what I saw was a CLEAR DESIGN FLAW and lead to a ton of play in my differential. I ground the stock Ford shims down and added the HARDENED STEEL shims that come with any differential rebuilding kit between the now thinner original Ford shim and carrier so that a nice hard piece of TRUE SHIM STOCK was seeing the shock forces from the carrier! I was SHOCKED at the 0.030" lash I was seeing when measuring gear lash, and was almost as stunned to find out that just reinstalling shims to the original thickness as installed by Ford removed all of the excessive lash and put the gearset back into spec without ANY OTHER ADJUSTMENTS!!!

    Perhaps I stumbled across the reason for the clunking of the Ford rearends? Let me state this clearly - the difference in thickness from one side of the factory Ford shim to the other (only 110,000 miles) was 0.010"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! For those of you familiar with these sorts of things, that a HUGH amount of distortion in what should be a hardened and stable shim.

    2. You can find one (7.5 trac loc) in an 83-86 Turbo Coupe, 84-86 XR7 Turbo, 87-88 T-Bird Sport V8
    and 87 Cougar XR-7 V8. Of course it was optional in all other trim levels,
    but the above ones had a 7.5" traction lock as standard equipment
    Rack/pinion removeal and tid bits
    **in advance,, yes i know the driver motor mount is in the way and i feel your pain : )**
    Loosen bolt just below your power booster on the steering rod assembly (telescope part)
    i could not get my telescope bolt loose so my situation was harder.
    locate and remove the nut that joins the rack to steering rod near the driver motor mount.
    Try your best to mark your rack/pinion to steering shaft near motor mount
    this helps to re-align the steering wheel afterwards
    dont remove steering knuckle assembly just yet.
    lock steering wheel,jack up car by lower control arms,remove both front wheels
    loosen up rack/pinion covers and slide them outwards.
    the covers might still have the factory "pinch" or "sinch" clamps and are easy to remove
    just slip a punch up in the pinched off part and spread it open
    measure and note the distance from the rack case to the beginning of the outter tie rod ends
    dont mesure up to the nut,,the brand nut may make it thicker or thinner.
    the distance to the outter tie rod end is critical for alignment as it was before removeal
    loosen up the two long rack bolts and pry forward a little bit
    undo all the power steering fittings you can get to at this time. Only two to do.
    you will undo the power steering feed and return lines, use a brake line wrench
    loosen outter tie rod end lock nut
    remove the outter tie rod end by loosening the castle nut till flush with the stud surface
    hammer on it till it frees up and undo it, just leave the outters on for now
    grasp the outter tie rod end and push it in and out to check for play on the inner.
    if you feel a bit of slack and your not replacing the inners,,then.
    ********move on to the next topic below called
    """""""Tie rod end inspection and inner tie rod end adjustment""""""""
    you can change the outters when the rack has more space on the floor.
    eventually you will get the second power steering line loose and the rack is read to come out
    remove the two long rack bolts and bushings and nuts
    the new bushings will probably be hard plastic,, its your choice to use them or not.
    remove rack out on the floor and take off your outter tie rod ends and trash them
    remove the covers and inspect the inner tie rod end for one or two allen head set screws
    the inner tie rod end is the large nut that you see on either side of the rack
    the set screw is located on the side of this nut.
    loosen set screw then undo the inner tie rod end knuckle nut.

    installing everything back is pretty much reverse order but there are a couple things to cover
    center up the rack/pinion full lenght rod that sticks out each end
    measure the distance fromt the rack case to the end of the rod till equal (critical)
    adjust this rod that passes through the rack by truning the thingamajig that hooks to steering linkage
    mount rack,add bushings,bolts,lines ect
    add inner tie rod ends (the inners are adjustable if you look up inside the knuckle nut)
    some have a metal disc which can be rotated using a 1/4'' exention
    for this type, loosen it, use a grease gun and shove some grease up in the 1/4'' hole
    rotate the disc till the knuckle is not floppy and rather stiff
    others have a plastic disc and cant be loosened for grease as far as i know
    to adjust the plastic disc type, just tighten the knuckle up to the rack till its stiff
    add your allen set screws to lock in your position
    refer to your outter tie rod end measurements to reinstall your outter tie rod ends
    now would be a good time to reattach the steering rod so you done hose up steering wheel alignment
    your about done now and you should be able to take it from here.


    Tie rod end inspection and inner tie rod end adjustment

    remove the outter tierod end cotter pin
    back outter tierod end castle nut till its flush with the stud
    smack the nut/stud with a hammer upward to loosen it
    remove nut
    if the outter knuckle seems to move easy, replace the outter tierod end.
    Locate your slop on the inner
    raise and lower the whole arm which is connected at the rack/pinion
    does it move easy up and down?
    move the entire assy parallel to the gound
    move it in towards the rack then pull it towards yourslef
    do you feel play?
    if so, you could try to adjust the innner tie rod end.

    slide rack/pinion dust shild to expose the inner tierod end knuckle
    locate a tiny lock or set screw in the big hex nut attached to the rack.
    loosen this set screw (probably an allen head
    use a cresent to remove the whole tierod assy both inner and outter off the rack
    look inside the inner tie rod end nut and there will be a round disc deep inside
    there are two types of inners i have come across.
    plastic disc
    metal disc

    plastic disc type
    use a grease gun to add grease up in the 1/4'' hole
    reinstall /*adjust* the entire arm assy till your whole assy does not flop around easy
    reconnect everything back up and lock it in via the set/lock screw.
    the plastic disc will be pressed further up into the knockle thus taking up slack.

    metal disc type
    use a grease gun to add grease up in the 1/4'' hole
    use a 1/4 drive fitting and insert it into the square hole in the knuckle
    turn the disc till its snug
    reconnect everything back up and lock it in via the set/lock screw.
    the metal disc needs rotated and must be manually done.

    Ball joint replacement

    jack up car in the center of the control arm (spring location)
    slide jack stand in towards the outter part of the control arm
    jack stand should be in close proximity to the ball joint but not in the way.
    lower jack onto jack stand
    remove wheel
    remove caliper and tie up with wire to keep stress off hose
    remove rotor (dust cap, cotter pin, adjustment nut,outter bearing)
    the inner bearing and rotor seal will stay put
    pull rotor off now
    remove tie rod end (cotter pin and castle nut)
    back tie rod end nut off till flush with the top threads
    hammer downward to dislodge it
    finish removing castle nut and lower out tie rod end slid out of the way
    *notice the compression still on the big spring
    *you are ok as long as the jack stand remains on the outter part of the conrol arm
    remove strut bolts and lightly hammer strut out of place and swing out of the way
    Pivit spindal assy outwards remove the keeper bolt
    you may have to spread out the flanges with a flat head/hammer
    lift up and remove the hub/spindal assy
    use a hammer to knock straight down on the ball joint.
    hammer on the ball joint stud as well as the control arm sides
    eventually it will come out.

    install ball joint---
    relocate jack to balljoint area
    *notice the lip on the ball joint where the seat is
    *notice how thick your control arm metal is (hole where ball joint goes)
    place balljoint up in hole
    jack up your jack under the balljoint to apply some presure
    your control arm will move up just slightly (about 3/4'')
    inspect and make sure the balljoint is started by hand evenly around the seat
    use a hammer to tap around the outter part of the control arm downwards
    this will start to seat the balljoint
    your control arm will lower as you do this
    you may need to jack up on the ball joint a little bit more to get some tension
    continue hammering around on the contol arm till you see the ball joint is seated
    inspect the underside of the control arm to verify this
    install spindal,strut,rotor,caliper,tierod end, ect ect and your done.

    Tailshaft bushing check and replacement (including the quick replacement)

    to check
    -grasp YOKE of the drive shaft at the ujoint where it enters the tranny
    -move or shake the driveshaft to feel for play
    -if you feel play, replace the tailshaft bushing
    -there can only be very very very little play here.

    quick replacement (by tom, turbocoupe50)
    -remove driveshaft and rear seal only
    -use a hacksaw to cut about 1/4 inch off your new bushing reducing its length
    -file rough edges
    -place new bushing on your driveshaft yoke and align the weep hole or groove as you like
    -side yoke back up into tranny till it stops against your new bushing
    -use your yoke to slap hammer the new bushing in starting gently at first
    -eventually your new bushing will scoot the old one deeper making room for the new
    -keep working your bushing in till its deep enough to allow the rear seal to go on.

    your old bushing shares the room with the new bushing but both are still attached.
    You cant do this twice, there aint enough room on the tailshaft bushing surface
    to hold three.

    -chock your rear wheels and set emergency brake
    -remove driveshaft blolts on rear and remove driveshaft
    -unplug speed sensor electrical connector
    -remove speed sensor via the single clamp down bolt assy
    -remove two bolts attaching tranny to tranny mount
    -jack and support tranny up an inch or so
    -remove one tranny cross member bolt and swing it down out of the way
    -remove rear seal with a flat head screwdriver ect ect
    -remove the bolts that hold the tailshaft on the tranny
    -slide off the tail shaft, there will be some fluid loss at this point
    -notice the design of the old bushing where the "weep hole" is located for lubrication
    -notice the copper look to the old one vs the silver look of the new one.
    -stand tailshaft on bench with the little end up
    -use a combination of the three knotches on the tailshaft to pound out the bushing.
    -get your new bushng started by hand but pay attention to the lubrication groove.
    -lay a piece of wood on bushing, tap with hammer till it seats.
    -be creative with other soft things lying around to finsh seating the bushing deeper.
    -install everything back in reverse

    Checking the fuel pump relay (in/out of car test)

    relay location-rt side of trunk beyond pass trunk hinge, remove covering.
    remove relay to a work area
    supply +12vdc power to where the Red wire hooks
    supply ground of the power supply to where tan/light green hooks
    (any old power supply will work from 9-18 or so volts dc. power supplys from printers , chordles phones,home computer , ect that plug into the house outlet and converts to dc is good enough, the higher amperage may be your only problem.)

    now, put your meter to ohms
    put the red lead and the black lead on the remaining contacts where the pink/black and yellow hooked up.
    There should be a path or continuity.
    remove the power from the coil
    the path should now be open.
    you should hear the relay click when power is applied and removed.

    Checking fuel pump relay (in the car test)

    power at red wire? yes (relay coil power from inertia switch and eec pins 37/57)
    ground at tan/light green wire? no (ground applied when key is forward from eec pin 22)(if you cant get a ground to the relay coil, the eec is bad or an open in the harness somewhere)
    power at yellow wire? yes (input relay contact from computer pin 1)
    power at pink/black? no (transfers yellow wire power to fuel pump)

    turn key forward
    power at pink black? yes (in put power to fuel pump)

    **tid bit
    the tan/light green wire is also located at the EEC self test conn. If you have a cfi system and need a gallon of gas to cut the grass, saw fire wood or something then unhook your pass fuel feed line on the rear of the cfi. place your gas container somewhere to catch fuel. ground out the tan/light green wire and turn your key forward. out comes the gas you need.
    For those of you who have installed 3.73 gears with your stock AOD you know how hard
    it is to find a speedo driven gear to make your speedo close to accurate. In reality a
    24 tooth gear would put it dead on but a 23 tooth gear makes it with in 1-3 mph of being
    correct. The only problem was that there was no 23 tooth auto trans driven gear avaliable
    from Ford. You either had to use a 21 tooth gear like I did and accept the 6-7 mph
    difference between what the speedo said and your actual speed or use a 23 tooth gear
    for a T-5 which would wear out fast. There is a solution though. I found a 23 tooth
    AOD driven gear at Mustangs unlimited. I ordered it and it looks just like my 21 tooth
    gear with 2 more teeth. I installed it and vola my speedo is almost right on. Here's
    the link if anyone is interested. ---thunderjet302

    Cool... But I have the later super coupe AOD with a 7 tooth output.
    A 21 works fine for me.--turbocoupe50

    309/406/427 tid bits
    does anyone Know if a FE series big block can be installed in a fox
    thunderbird? At the local junk yard theres a 65' t-bird with a 4-bolt (cross bolted from outside of block on FE's)
    main 406 FE. I did some research, and any FE with a 4-bolt main caps is either a 406 or a 427 high performance engine.we're talking over 400 hp.! I know theres a company that makes kits that will adapt a an AOD to the FE bell housing bolt pattern. The problem there is that an
    AOD that can handle that much power is not cheap. So what would work for a alternitive, and what about mounts? Custom made headers would have to be incorperated...

    If its a real 406/427 its worth big buckaroos.... You can sell it for enough to buy a 460 and all the pieces to swap it in..

    BTW NO Thunderbird ever came from the factory with a 406/427, 390/428s were it (neither had cross bolt mains, BUT it is possible to convert a std block). 406 production ended early '63 when the 427 was introduced, so it has to have been swapped in at a later point. But again if it has the cross bolt mains its worth big $$$$(Unless it is a converted 390, but a 428 is worth $$$$ either converted or not).

    I've seen one of those 406's in an early 70's LTD and that thing screamed. What did they come in from the factory?


    I'd say I doubt, it but anything is possible.... I've seen a '72 LTD 4 door with a BOSS 429 stroked and bored to 470cu in(got a couple of pictures somewhere). Now that thing screamed.

    The 406 was only built in '62 and early '63 and were only installed in full sized Fords and Mercurys.

    The 427s were available from mid '63 to '67 in the full size Fords and Mercs. The '64 Fairlane Thunderbolt got it, as did the '66 Fairlane and the '67 Fairlanes and Comets. Also a handfull of Shelby Mustangs got it. The 427s last hoo-rah was in the '68 Cougar GTE(I had one of those). It was supposedly available in other '68 models (Torino, Cyclone, Mustang), but to my knowledge a actual FACTORY built model has never been found. Marti Auto Works has all the original records on the later '60s models and he says none were ever built.

    BTW..... I almost forgot.... Only a few of the late 406s actually had the cross bolt main bearings(NASCAR blocks), but ALL the 427s had this feature.


    misc engine info
    Ford 90 Degree Family
    221 cubic inch
    Bore and stroke of 3.50 X 2.87.
    One of the rarest engines in its' class.
    Produced from 1962 to 1963
    Compression ratio of 8.7:1
    143 Horsepower

    260 cubic inch
    A hybrid of the 221.
    Bore and stroke of 3.80 X 2.87
    Larger intake and exhaust ports.
    164 Horsepower
    Was used in one of the first Cobra's.

    Bore and stoke 4.00 X 2.87
    200 Horsepower w/ 282 ft-lb torque
    Two barrel Ford carb
    Hydraulic camshaft
    In 1964, the 289 was available at 210 horsepower, four barrel carb, cast iron intake manifold and compression ratio of 9.0:1
    In 1965 the 289 became was now at 225 horsepower, larger four barrel carb and a compression ratio of 10.0:1 This engine was available till the 1967 model year.
    In 1968, the engine was reduced to 195 horsepower.

    289 HiPo
    Available from 1964 to 1967
    Higher nodularity content in block w/ larger two bolt main caps.
    Counter weight balanced crankshaft.
    3/8 inch rod bolts
    Screw in rocker studs w/mechanical lifter camshaft.
    Dual point distributor.
    Ford 480 cfm four-barrel carb atop a cast-iron intake manifold.
    271 horespower at 6,000 RPM w/312 ft-lb's of torque.

    Produced in 1968
    Cast iron crankshaft
    forged rods
    cast pistons
    hydraulic camshaft
    available with 2 or 4 barrell carburator
    horsepower varied from 210 to 230 depending on carburator.
    Standard 302 was equipped with 2 barrel from 1969 to 1983.

    302 Tunnel Port
    Did not see production for consumer market.
    Commonly referred to as the 302 TP for Tunnel Port
    Pushrods were fitted inside a sleeve
    Intake ports were oversized
    Intake/Exhaust was 2.12inches and 1.54inches
    Two versions available, one with conventional rocker arms for the Trans Am race series and the other using Nascar shaft mounted rocers.
    Engines were built by Ford foundry and not by the racing circuit

    302 Boss
    Top performer of the 90 degree family.
    Production from 1969 to 1970.
    Available in Mustang 302 Sportsroof and Mercury Cougar Eliminator only.
    Four bolt mains
    Screw in frost plugs
    Canted valves, 2.23 in. / 1.71 in.
    Cylinder heads from Ford's 335 Series family.
    Threaded rocker arm studs
    Push rod guide plates.
    Stamped steel sled-fulcrum rockers
    Mechanical lifter camshaft
    dual plane, single four barrell aluminum intake.
    Holley 780cfm carb.

    351 Windsor
    Not to be confused with the 351 Cleveland.
    A basic 302 with extended deck height with thicker cylinder walls
    Primarily the only interchangeable part are the heads with other small blocks from the 90 degree family.
    In 1969, the 351 Windsor reached its' highest horsepower rating of 290 at 5800RPM

    Ford MEL Series (mercury edsel lincoln)
    In 1958, came the introduction of the MEL series engines. These were some of the largest and heaviest V8 engines Ford had ever built.

    383 cubic inch
    Developed for the Mercury line of vehicles.
    Bore and stroke of 4.30 X 3.30 inches.
    Had a two year history starting in 1958 and lasting till 1960
    Most of these engines in the two years were known as the Marauder
    The Mercury Marauder engines of 1958 came with either 312 horsepower or 330 horsepower, both packed with a four barrel carburator.
    In 1959, the Marauder engine was considered a mid range of its' predecessor with a stock horsepower of 322.
    In its' last year, the 383 cubic inch Marauder was dropped to 280 horsepower.

    410 cubic inch
    Less common of the MEL series is the 410 cubic inch
    Bore and Stroke of 4.20 X 3.70
    10.5.1 compression
    Holley four-barrel carb and hydraulic lifters.
    475 pounds of foot torque
    Also be reffered to as the E-475 engine.
    In 1958, Edsel Corsair and Citation models used the 410 cubic inch as their only preference for engine types.

    430 cubic inch
    commonly referred to as the Bulldozer of the MEL series and lasted from 1958 to 1965
    In its' "suped up" version, the 430 was commonly referred to as the Super Marauder and came with three two barrel carburators.
    bore and stroke of 4.29 X 3.7 inches
    Compression rations started at 10.5.1 but soon began to decline late in 1959 to 10.0.1 at 350 horsepower.
    The higher horsepower versions of the 430 remained within its first year of production with horsepower of 365, 375 and of course 400.
    In 1959 the horsepower slowly began to reduce, yet hold a moderate 345 ponies even with a slightly less compression ratio of 10.0.1.
    In 1960, the big 430 cubic inch used a milder camshaft, producing 315 horsepower.
    1963 when the 430 got an overhaul with new pistons and a four barrel carb, pushing compression to 10.1.1 and a horsepower rating of about 345.
    It could be found in the 1958 Lincoln Continental Convertible, rating 400 horsepower and nearly 500 foot pounds of torque.
    Mercury also used the 430 cubic inch until 1960.

    462 cubic inch
    By 1966, it replaced its' predecessor the 430.
    bore and stroke of 4.38 X 3.83 inches.
    hydraulic lifters and a four barrel carb.
    the 462 was used for its' smoothness in large passenger vehicles.
    It lasted for only two years.

    Ford FE Series
    332 cubic inch (1958 - 1959)
    Compression ratio 9.5:1
    Bore and stroke of 4.00X3.30
    two-barrell @ 240 hp
    1958 series option w/four-barrell @ 265 hp
    mechanical camshaft w/machined combustion chambers
    last year of production, compression ratio 8.9.:1 @ 225 hp

    352 cubic inch
    bore and stroke of 4.00X3.50
    engine for the '58 T-bird
    four barrell carb @ 300 hp
    compression ratio 10.2.:1
    cast iron crankshaft
    forged steel rods, mechanical-lifter camshaft w/machined combustion chambers or cast chambers by 1959.
    By 1960, the 352 HP was available with an aluminum intake manifold producing approximately 360 hp.

    360 cubic inch
    Used in Ford trucks
    Lower compression engine with heavy duty internal parts

    361 cubic inch (1958 - 1959)
    Bore and stroke 4.0469X3.50
    10.5:1 compression ratio w/303 hp
    In 1959, the 360 cubic inch used cast chambers reducing compression and horsepower.

    390 cubic inch (1961-1976)
    Bore and stroke 4.05X3.78
    Three versions available
    1961-1963: 390 cubic inch with 9.6:1 compression ratio, four barrell carb @300 hp.

    406 cubic inch
    Introduced in 1962
    Bore and stroke 4.13x3.78
    Same block as 390 HP
    Few 1963 blocks came with cross bolt mains.
    Revised oil galleries.

    410 cubic inch
    This is a 390 block with a 428 crankshaft
    Four barrell carb.
    The stroke is increased .020 in for a total of 3.98 inches
    Only used in Mercury vehicles from 1966 to 1967

    427 Low Riser
    Available through 1963-1964
    Cast iron crankshaft and solid lifter camshaft
    Intake 2.04 (2.09 inch in 1964) with 1.66 exhaust valves
    Some of these engines had cross-bolt mains.
    Cast aluminum intake manifolds.
    Single and dual four barrell carburators.
    Horsepower varied from 410 to 425 depending on setup.
    11.5.1 compression

    427 Medium Riser
    1965 to 1967 all 427 blocks were side oilers.
    Forged steel crankshaft
    Cap screw connecting rods
    Cross bolt mains

    427 High Riser
    Introduce in 1964
    Tallest cyclinder ports and intake manifold allowed for greater air/fuel mixture
    Single and dual four barrell
    Cast iron crank
    solid lifter camshaft
    Cross bolt mains

    427 Tunnel Port
    Available in 1967
    Options included Tunnel Port cyclinder heads, four barrell aluminum intake or dual four barrell aluminum intake.
    Much like the 427 medium riser in all other regards.

    427 SOHC
    Available as an over the counter option only.
    Cast aluminum cyclinder heads
    hemi-spherical combusiton chambers
    stainless steel valves

    428 cubic inch
    Introduced in 1966
    Bore and stroke of 4.13X3.98
    Cast iron crankshaft
    forged-steel connecting rods
    cast iron intake manifold
    345 horsepower @ 10.5:1 compression ration
    Variations of the 428 existed throughout its' life span, including the 428 Police Interceptor, 428 Thunderjet and 428 Marauder.
    The Police Interceptor contained an aluminum intake, high performance camshaft and beefier connecting rods to produce 360 hp.

    428 Cobra Jet
    Standard was 2.09 inch intake and 1.66 inch exhaust valves.
    Cast iron intake manifold identical to the aluminum one on the police interceptor.
    Cast iron exhaust manifolds.
    Two-bolt main block
    Between 345-360 horsepower

    428 Super Cobra Jet
    Internal structure differences included Lemans type cap screw rods The capscrews were shorter than the 427's to clear the block
    Externally balanced
    External engine oil cooler

    Ford 385-Series Family
    Although there were several variations to the engines of the 385-series family, only two displacements were available---the 429 cubic inch and the 460 cubic inch. Both were introduced in 1968 and lasted until 1973. These engines were heavier and larger than Ford's predecessor---the FE Family.

    429 (Thunderjet)
    two-bolt main bearing cap
    Bore and Stroke 4.36x3.59
    cast-iron crankshaft
    forged-steel connecting rods with 3/8 inch rod bolts
    cast-aluminum pistons
    hydraulic lifter camshaft
    2.08 inch/1.66 inch intake/exhaust valves
    non-adjustable rocker arms
    cast-iron intake manifold
    4 barrel or 2 barrel carburator
    Was available in Ford and Mercury automobiles

    429 Cobra Jet
    Four-bolt main engine block (with exception to some early 1970 models).
    Larger cylinder heads---2.25 inches/1.72 inches intake/exhaust.
    Rocker arms were stamped steel 1.73:1 ratio with sled type fulcrums, threaded screw-in rocker studs and pushrod guide plates.
    The rocker arms on the 429 cubic inch Cobra Jet were also adjustable prior to 1969.
    Cobra Jet used a Rochester Quadrajet carburetor atop a spread-bore cast-iron manifold.

    429 Super Cobra Jet
    4 bolt main engine blocks
    Forged aluminum pistions
    Mechanical lifter camshaft
    Adjustable rocker arms
    780cfm Holley four-barrel carb

    429 Boss
    All aluminum cast cylinder heads
    Cresent type combustion chambers
    Intake/Exhaust valves of 2.28in and 1.90inch
    Exhaust valves are "D" shaped
    4 oil galleries
    Identified by casting 429HP on block
    Higher iron nodularity content with thicker cylinder walls
    2 Versions of the 429 Boss existed, they were 820-S & 820-T
    Forged steel cross-drilled crankshaft
    Forged aluminum pistons
    Aluminum dual plane manifold w/735cfm Holley four barrel carb

    429 Nascar
    Larger Outboard bolts in #1 main bearing cap.
    Deck height was grooved for O rings.
    Larger machined refliefs for exhaust pushrods
    Longer street rods, than the Boss 429-820S type
    Some blocks had full hemi design, others crescent type
    Stainless steel intake valves
    Magnesium valve covers and intake manifold.

    Produced from 1968 to 1996.
    Available in Ford, Mercury and Lincoln.
    Same as 429, but with longer stroke. (3.85 inch)
    During its earlier years, pre 1973, horsepower was rated at 365. After 1972 horsepower ranged from 208 to 275.
    Intake/exhaust valves are 2.08/1.66
    Intake/exhaust valves for the Police Interceptor 460 heads (from 1973-'74) measure 2.19/1.66

    Ford 335-Series Family
    The 335 Series consisted of versions of the 351 and 400 blocks. It lasted from 1970 to 1975.

    351 Cleveland
    canted-valve cyclinder heads.
    bore and stroke of 4.00 X 3.50.
    a light weight block to beat.
    one of the most desirable V8 engines Ford had to offer.
    a two barrel or four barrel setup.
    From 1970 to 1971 the 351 boosted between 250 to 240 horsepower.
    As time progress, the 351 Cleveland saw lessor horsepower until its' demise in 1975.
    the 351 Cleveland four barrel came with dual exhausts, a higher compressions ratio, larger intake/exhaust valves and four bolt mains during the first year of production.
    the 351 Windsor, which belongs to the 90 degree V8 family and bears no resemblance or connection to the 351 Cleveland.

    351 CJ
    Introduced in the fall of 1971
    mostly of four bolt mains, however there are some with two bolt mains.
    possessed a spread bore bolt pattern cast iron manifold
    Autolite carb 4300-D
    Horsepower varied from approximately 280 during the first year of production down to 265 by 1973.

    351 Boss
    Most desirable
    only available in the 1971 Boss 351 Mustang
    Four bolt mains
    high nodular iron crankshaft
    solid lifter camshaft with screw in studs
    adjustable rockers
    an aluminum four barrel intake

    351 HO
    In 1972, Ford rolled the 351 Boss over into the 351 High Output for the new year.
    Slighltly less desirable, the 351 High Output used the spread bore bolt pattern cast iron manifold
    Autolite 4300-D.
    With a milder camshaft, the output of the 351 HO was about 275 horsepower.

    351 M and 400
    By 1975 the 351 Modified was issued with Cleveland heads
    a two barrel carb.
    hydraulic lifters.
    a cast iron intake manifold.
    a two barrel carb.
    the 351 Modified and the 400 which was introduced since 1971, are virtually identical with very few exceptions.

    Ford Y Block Series Family

    239 cubic inch
    Cast iron crankshaft, intake and exhaust
    Cast-aluminum pistons
    Mechanical camshaft
    Aavailable in Ford cars in 1954 and 1955 Ford trucks

    256 cubic inch
    Used only on Mercury vehicles and in F-series Ford trucks
    Compression ratio of 7.5:1
    161hp at 4400RPM

    272 cubic inch
    Two versions available for 1955
    Two barrel carb with 7.6:1 compression and 162hp
    Four barrel carb with 8.5:1 compression and 182hp
    In 1956 horsepower varied with automatic or manual transmission
    In 1957, the 272 cubic inch reached 192 horsepower

    292 cubic inch
    First introduced in the T-bird and Montclair
    All used four barrel carb in 1955, but horsepower varied, but average around 200 depending with manual or automatic transmissions.
    Bore and stroke: 3.75x3.30 in.
    Following years were produce less horsepower, until its' demise in 1964

    312 cubic inch
    Largest Y Block of its kind
    Bore and stroke: 3.60x3.44 in.
    Two versions were introduced, both with four barrel carbs and dual exhausts.
    Introduced, once again in the 1957 T-Bird, it gained critical aclaim for producing horsepower over 300 while equipped with a Paxton supercharger

    Lincoln Family

    317 cubic inch
    Cast nodular iron crankshaft supported by five bearing journals at 2.62inch
    Rod journals measured 2.249 inches
    8.0:1 compression ratio and 205hp at 4200 RPM
    An improved Holley carb, high lifter cam, dual diaphram distributor and freer flowing exhaust

    341 cubic inch
    Last only for 1955
    Increased bore to 3.94 inches
    Compression ratio of 8.5:1 with 225hp at 4400RPM and of torque

    368 cubic inch
    Introduced in 1956
    Increased bore and stroke to 4.00X3.66
    285hp @ 4600 RPM with of toque
    Compression ratio is 9.0:1
    Larger exhaust valves at 1.64 inches, bigger fuel pump and dual diaphram distributor
    Black painted valve covers and air cleaner
    Following production year had slightly revised enhancements including 10.1:1 compression, Carter four barrel carb and a spin on/off oil filter

    misc casting number info

    Casting numbers tell when a part was ORIGINALLY designed and what car it was
    ORIGINALLY designed for. This does not mean that the part was not used on other
    cars. For example, casting number C8OE-9430-D is an exhaust manifold for a 428
    CJ Fairlane; however, it was also used on 428 CJ Mustangs.
    The breakdown of casting number C8OE-9430-D is easy using the charts below:
    C = Decade of 1960
    8 = Year of the decade (8th year of 1960), 1968
    O = Fairlane Car line / Manufacture code
    E = Engine engineering department
    9430 = Basic number for an exhaust manifold
    N = Design change
    Casting Number Breakdown Charts
    Decade of Manufacture:
    A = 1940
    B = 1950
    C = 1960
    D = 1970
    E = 1980
    Year of Decade
    The year of the decade is determined by adding a number (0-9) to the letter of
    the decade. Example: C6 would be 1966, D0 would be 1970, D1 would be 1971.
    Car Line/ Manufacture Codes
    A = Galaxie
    D = Falcon (60-69)
    F = Outside USA, Trans Am racing
    G = Comet / Montego
    J = Industrial
    M = Mercury
    O = Fairlane / Torino
    P = Autolite / Motorcraft
    R = Rotunda
    S = Thunderbird
    T = Truck
    V = Lincoln (61 - current)
    Z = Mustang
    Engineering Departments
    A = Chassis
    B = Body
    E = Engine
    F = Engine accessories
    J = Autolite (67-72)
    P = Automatic transmission
    R = Manual transmission
    W = Axle
    X = Muscle parts program
    Y = Lincoln / Mercury service parts
    Z = Ford service parts
    Basic Number
    These identify the part, such as 6090 being a cylinder head or 9430 being an
    exhaust manifold.
    Design Change
    A Basic part is made to fit many applications. Example:
    DOZZ-7528-C is a clutch bar for a 390/428
    DOZZ-7528-D is a clutch bar for a 351 W
    DOZZ-7529-E is a clutch bar for a 302 Boss
    Reading Casting Dates
    Casting dates:
    Casting dates show the exact day, month and year a certain part was made or
    cast. The typical casting date looks like "6M08".
    Breaking down a casting date:
    6 = The year of the decade. "6" for 1976.
    M = The letter of the month. (December)
    08 = The day of the month. (8th)
    First year month codes:

    Second year month codes:

    How do casting numbers appear?
    Most casting numbers are stamped into the part itself, other have the number
    molded on the part. Some casting numbers can be ink stamped while others are
    printed on paper, which is then wraped around the part.
    FE Casting Numbers
    Blocks (C1AE8015C)
    390 cid

    406 cid

    427 cid

    428 cid

    390 cid [3.78" stroke]

    406 cid [3.78" stroke]
    C3AE-6303-E C4TZ-B

    410 cid [3.98" stroke]

    427 cid [3.78" stroke]
    C3AE-6303-E C4TZ-B

    428 cid [3.98" stroke]

    ================================================== ===========================


    Interesting head casting with pictures if your looking at many parts in the bone yard


    221 / 62-63 / C20E-A,B,C,D,E & C30E-A / 45CC / 1.59/1.39
    255 / 80-80 / E0SE / 55.4CC / 1.67/1.45
    260 / 62-63 / C2OE-F,C3OE-B / 54.5CC / 1.59/1.39
    260 / 64-64 / C40E-B / 54.5CC / 1.67/1.45
    289 / 63-64 / C3AE-F,CEOE-E,F,CRAE-C / 54.5CC / 1.67/1.45 ALL NON HO289-RAIL TYPE ROCKERS
    289 / 65-67 / C5DE-B,C6DE-G,C6OE-C,E,C6OE-M, C7OE-A,B,C, C7OZ-B,C7ZE-A/ 54.5CC / 1.67/1.45
    289 / 68-68 / C8OE-D,L,M / 63CC / 1.67/1.45
    289HO/63-63*/ C30E / 49.2CC / 1.67/1.45 STUDED HEAD/ HIGH OUTPUT
    289HO/64-67*/ C40E-B,C5OE-A,C5AE-E / 54.5CC / 1.78/1.45 STUDED HEAD/ HIGH OUTPUT
    3O2*/ 69-69 / C9ZE-A / 63CC / 2.23/1.71 BOSS 302
    302*/ 70-70 / DOZE-A,D1ZE-A / 58CC / 2.19/1.71 BOSS 302
    302 / 68-70 / C80E-F / 53.5CC / 1.78/1.45 USED ON 4-V ENGINE
    302 / 68-70 / C7OE-C,G,C8AE-J,C8DE-F,C8OE-J,M,C8OE-K,L / 63CC / 1.78/1.45
    302 / 68-70 / C9TE-C,DO0E-B / 58.2CC / 1.78/1.45
    302 / 71-74 / D1TZ-A,D2OE-BA / 58.2 / 1.78/1.45
    302 / 75-76 / D5OE-GA,-A3A,-A3B / 58.2CC / 1.78/1.45 INTERNAL INJECTION AIR PORTS
    302 / 77-77 / D7OE-DA / 69CC / 1.78/1.45
    302 / 78-80 / D8OE-AB / 69CC / 1.78/1.45 S/A 351W STAMPED ROCKER ARMS
    302 / 79-84 / D9AE-AA / 67.5-70CC / 1.78/1.46
    302 / 85-85 / E5AE-CA / 67-70CC / 1.78/1.46 ****HEADS THE SAME AS E7's-turbocoupe50
    302 / 86-86 / E6AE-AA / 62-65CC / 1.78/1.46
    302 / 87-93 / E5TE-PA,E7AE-AA / 62-65CC / 1.78/1.46
    302 / 87-93 / E7TE-PA / 60-64CC / 1.78/1.46
    302*/ 93-93 / F3ZE-AA / 60-63CC / 1.84/1.54 GT-40 COBRA/some mid 90's f150 with 351
    302*/ 94-95 / F4ZE-AA / 60-63CC / 1.84/1.54 GT-40 COBRA/some mid 90's f150 with 351
    302*/ 96-97 / F1ZE-AA / 63-66CC / 1.84/1.54 GT-40 EXPLORER/Mountainer
    302*/ 97-00 / F77E-AA / 58-61CC / 1.84/1.46 GT-40P EXPLORER/Mountainer
    *******GT or GTP stamped next to number 1 spark plug
    *******1996 is the magical confussing year for the gt as it may also be on SUV's.
    *******Dont forget these appear on 351 truck engines as well.
    *******obtain headers off doner as well
    *******obtain larger throttle body/upper /lower intake since they flow better
    *******concerns...existing piston clearance

    Turbocoupe50 has some advice for you>>>>
    """It's ONLY the '86-UP SO engines and all '86 HO(also '87 in LSC) engines that have flat top pistons that have valve clearance issues... All the earlier engines HAVE valve reliefs, though they probably arn't large enough for some aftermarket heads and cams...""""

    *******drill head bolt holes larger if used on a 351w.
    351*/ 71-71 / The 351 Boss was a one year deal... '71 ONLY... In '72 & '73 a lower compression Cobra Jet 351 version was available that was similar to the '71 Boss motor... A few Torinos got the CJ in '72-'73 in addition to the Stangs... I'm assuming the Mercury models received them as well...turbocoupe50.
    351*/ 69-74 / C90E-B,D,DOOE-C,G,DOOZ-C / 60.4CC / 1.84/1.54 HIGHEST HP IN 1969
    351 / 75-77 / D5TE-EB / 60.4CC / 1.84/1.54 INTERNAL AIR INJECTION PORTS
    351 / 78-80 / D8OE-AB / 69CC / 1.78/1.45 S/A 302 STAMPED ROCKERS
    351 / 85-86 / E5AE-CA / 67-70CC / 1.78/1.46
    351 / 87-95 / E7TE-PA / 62-65CC / 1.78/1.46

    Ford, Mercury, and Lincoln
    Toll free 888-608-4890 or e-mail us
    PowerPro Longblock Ford Crate Engine prices are the cost of the Longblock Engine plus the
    refundable core listed to the left of the Longblock cost. This deposit will be refunded after
    you return our shipping container with your old engine core. With our 13 branch shipping locations
    you never pay freight. Our prices include all shipping and handling. Our Factory
    Warranty is 5yrs/100,000 Miles. Click here for warranty details.

    Eng Size
    Eng Part No
    Long Block Price
    Core Price

    Aspire, FWD, Fl. Roller Rockers

    Mercury Capri XR2 Turbo, B6, DOHC, Turbo, 16 Valve, FWD, 27mm Crank Snout

    Mercury Capri, B6, DOHC, MFI, 16 Valve, FWD, 27mm Crank Snout

    Tracer, Escort. DOHC, 16 Valve, 22mm Crank Snout.

    Tracer, Escort, DOHC, 16 Valve, 27mm Crank Snout, No Cam or Crank Sensors

    Tracer, Escort, DOHC, 16 Valve, 27mm Crank Snout, Crank Position Sensor on Oil Pump

    Escort, EFI, Non Roller, Block #E6EE-AA, Head #E5EE-F4A

    EFI, Non Roller, Block #E8EE. No Fuel Pump Hole in Head. If it has a Throttle Body then use CFI

    EFI, Roller Cam, If Throttle body use CFI

    CFI, Throttle body, Non Roller, will Not work for Carb or EFI Application

    CFI, Throttle body, Roller Cam, will Not work for Carb or EFI Application

    CFI & SEFI, Roller Cam, From 8/90 Thru 3/23/91, Escort & Tracer, Valve Cover has3
    Bolts in Center of Cover, Square Tooth Timing Belt Ford Longblock Crate Engine

    CFI & SEFI, Roller Cam, From 8/90 Thru 3/23/91-96, Escort & Tracer, Valve Cover Bolts
    Thru Center, Block # FOCE-AA, AB, Head # FOEE-B7A, Round Tooth Timing Belt

    FWD, Zetec Engine, MFI, 16 Valve, DOHC, Block #RF949M-R69Head #RF948M-R72 Contour, Mystique.

    Escort & Tracer, FWD, SOHC, Block # E7CE-AA, F8CE-AA, Head # F7CE-AA Ford Longblock Crate Engine

    121/2.0 4 98 3 Contour, Mystique & Cougar, MFI, 16 Valve, DOHC, Block #RF978M-6015DK DL
    DM, Head #RF978M-6090AK, XS7E-6090-AE
    DFZT $2,325 $245

    121/2.0 4 98-99 P Escort & Tracer, SOHC, Block # F8CE-AA Head # F7CE-AA knock sensor on right side
    DFXE $2,199 $245

    121/2.0 4 98 3 Escort ZX2 MFI 16 valve DOHC Ford Longblock Crate Engine
    DFYC $2,325 $260

    121/2 0
    Contour, Mystique FWD, Zetec Engine, MFI, 16 Valve, VVTI, DOHC,
    Block # RF978MDK, RFXS7E,Head # RF978MR74 RFXS7EAB. Ford Longblock Crate Engine

    121/2.0 4 99 3 Escort ZX-2 FWD, MFI, 16 valve, DOHC, VVTI, Zetec, Block #
    YS4G-AA Head # XS7E-6090AE DFYE $2,375 $260

    121/2.0 4 00 3 Focus, FWD, MFI, 16 valve, DOHC, VVTI, Zetec,
    Block # XS7E-G6015AA Head # XS7E-6090AB DFYA $2,375 $260

    121/2.0 4 01 3 Focus, FWD, MFI, 16 valve, DOHC, VVTI, Zetec,
    Block # XS7E Head # XS7E-AB DFZ2 $2,375 $245

    121/2.0 4 00-01 P Escort & Tracer, FWD, SOHC,Block # YS4E-DA Head # F7CE-AA
    Ford Longblock Crate Engine DFZE $2,375 $245

    121/2.0 4 00-02 P Focus, FWD, SOHC, Block # YS4E-DA Head #YS4E-EA DFXA $2,375 $245

    121/2.0 4 00-02 3 Escort ZX-2 FWD, MFI, 16 valve, DOHC, VVTI, Zetec,
    Block # YS4G-AA Head # XS7E-AE DFYF $2,375 $260

    121/2.0 4 00-01 3 Contour, Mystique, Cougar, FWD, Zetec Engine, MFI,
    16 Valve, VVTI, DOHC, Block # RFYS4-G6015AA, Head # RFXS7E-6090AD. Ford Longblock
    Crate Engine DFZW $2,375 $245

    121/2.0 4 01-02 B Escape, auto trans, DOHC, 16 valve, Ford Zetec Longblock,
    Block # YS4G-AA Head #YS4E-AC Ford Longblock Crate Engine DFYP $2,375 $260

    121/2.0 4 01-02 B Escape, manual trans, DOHC, 16 valve, Zetec, Block # YS4G-AA
    Head #YS4E-AC DFYR $2,375 $260

    Block #E37E-BC, 10/86-12/86 1 Piece Pan gasket. 87 Check Pan Gasket
    Ford Longblock Crate Engine

    Probe, DOHC, 16 Valves. Has a Crank Angle Sensor

    1998 4 9/97-02 A Probe, FS, DOHC, 16 Valve, Adjustable Shim, no distributor
    Ford Longblock Crate Engine
    623B $2,875 $395
    Probe, 12 Valve, F2, FWD, With Water Pump

    Probe GT Turbo, F2/T, FWD, With Water Pump.

    OHC, Oval Shaped Intake Ports, Also fits Courier 77-81

    OHC, D Shaped Intake Ports, Carb Ford Longblock Crate Engine

    OHC, Turbo, D Shaped Intake Ports

    OHC, Ranger, Round Intake Ports

    R, X, S
    OHV, HSC (High Swirl Combustion), Block # E43Z. 88 & Up see DFA8

    OHC, Turbo, 85-11/86, 4 Piece Pan Gasket

    140/2 3
    OHC, 1 Pc Pan gasket: bead or flat, type Fl Only, Non Roller Cam, D shaped Intake Ports

    OHC, 4 Piece Pan gasket

    T, W
    OHC, Turbo. Thunderbird, Merkur 11/86-89 Ford Longblock Crate Engine

    OHC, Fl, Roller Cam, Aluminum Pan, 1 Piece Pan gasket

    OHV, HSC (High Swirl Combustion). Not HO. For HO use DFC7

    OHV, HO, HSC (High Swirl Combustion) Ford Longblock Crate Engine

    OHC, Fl, Non Roller Cam, 1 Piece Pan gasket, No Smog in Head. Mustang

    A, M
    OHC, Fl, Dual Spark Plugs, 89-94 Ranger, 91-93 Mustang. Head #E97E-BNE89E-AB

    OHV, HSC Head, 1 1 Bolt Pan, Cam Sensor on Side of Block. 92-93 Tempo/Topaz
    Ford Longblock Crate Engine

    Dual Spark Plugs, 95-96 Ranger, Block F57E-DC, Head #F57E-E1 1C
    Ford Longblock Crate Engine

    140/2.3 4 01-03 D Ranger RWD DOHC 16 valve, block #1L5G-BA Head #1S7G-BT
    DFDF $2,599 $410
    KL, Probe, DOHC, 24 Valve, Aluminum Block

    FWD, HSC, Not HO. Head #E63E, D shaped Ports. For Probe 2.5 see #624 Ford Longblock Crate Engine

    RWD, Ranger, OHC, 8 Spark Plug, Block #F77E-AA, Head #F57E-E1 1 C Ford Longblock Crate Engine

    Dura-tec Engine, DOHC, 24 Valve, Block #F53E-NB, F73D-DA, F53E, Contour
    Mystique Ford Longblock Crate Engine

    153/2.5 V6 97 G Contour SVT, DOHC, 24 valve, Block # F53E-MC NB, Head #F53E
    OR F73E Ford Longblock Crate Engine DFYJ $2,825 $410

    153/2.5 V6 98 G Contour SVT, DOHC, 24 valve, Block # F53E-MC NB, Head #F53E
    OR F73E DFYK $2,825 $410

    153/2.5 V6 98-99 L 98 Contour & Mystique 98-99 Cougar with "9G400 or 9G401AA"
    Engine Code, Duratec 24 Valve, Block #XU3E-6015-BA, Head # YS2E DFZU $2,545 $395

    153/2.5 V6 99 G Contour SVT, DOHC, 24 valve, Block # XU3E-AB, Head #YS2E
    Ford Engine DFYM $2,825 $410

    153/2.5 V6 99-00 L 99 Contour & Mystique 99-00 Cougar with "8G400 or 8G401AA"
    Engine Code, Duratec 24 Valve, Block # F53E6015-NB MC, Head #F73E OR YS2E DFZV $2,545 $395

    153/2.5 V6 00-02 L 00 Cougar with "1G400 OR 1G401AA" Engine code, 01-02 Cougar
    ALL Duratec, Block # XW4E-BA Right Head # yf1e-fc Left Head # YL88E-BB DFTC N/A

    153/2.5 V6 00 G Contour SVT, DOHC, 24 Valve Ford Engine DFYN $2,825 $410

    153/2.5 V6 00 L Contour & Mystique, Duratec, 24 Valve,Block # XU3E-6015-BA
    Head # YS2E DFXC $2,825 $395

    Ranger, Aerostar, Bronco II Ford Engine

    Bronco II & Ranger, Not for Scorpio, Bolts in Front of Head are 8mm

    Ranger Only, Bolts in Front of Head 8mm. If 10mm use DFD9 Ford Engine

    89-92 Bronco II, 90-92 Ranger. Bolts in Front of Head are 10mm

    RWD, Aerostar & Ranger

    FWD, Up to 3/90, For 90-91 Probe use DFD6

    FWD, Non Roller, Block # E9DE, 89-91 FWD and 90-92 Probe Ford Engine

    183/3 0
    RWD, Non Roller, Block #E9DE, F2DE. 89-3/15/90 Ranger and Aerostar. For3/15/90-91 use DFT1

    RWD, Non Roller, Block #E9DE, F2DE. 3/15/90-10/91 Ford Ranger Engine and Aerostar engine

    10/91 -94
    RWD, Aerostar & Ranger, Roller Cam, Block #F2DE-BA

    FWD, Taurus or Sable, Roller Cam, Block #F2DE Ford Engine

    FWD, Tempo & Topaz Only, Roller Cam, Block #F2DE, Auto Trans

    FWD, Roller Cam, Block #F58E, F6AE. Head # E6AE, Crank #E5AE, F5DE, Crank
    has 5 Counter weights

    RWD, Roller Cam, Block #F58E, F6AE, Head #E6AE, Crank #E58E, F5DE, Crank has 5 counter weights

    183/3 0
    FWD, DOHC, 24 Valve, Roller tappets, Block #F5DE 601 5 EG, Head #F5DE 6090FC,
    Taurus, Sable. Not for Taurus SHO

    183/3.0 V6 99 S FWD, DOHC, 24 Valve, Roller tappets, Block #F5DE 601 5 EG,
    Head #F5DE 6090FC, Taurus, Sable. Not for Taurus SHO
    DFZ7 $2,645 $445
    RWD, Roller Cam, OHV, Block #XF1 E, Head #F6DE Ford Engine

    183/3.0 V6 99-01 V RWD, FFV (Flex Fuel) Roller Cam OHV, Block #XF1E, Head # F6DE
    DFWF $1,975 $220
    Windstar, 99-00 Taurus 99-01 FWD, Roller Cam, OHV, Block #XF1E, Head #F6DE

    183/3.0 V6 99-01 2 Taurus FFV (Flex Fuel),FWD Roller Cam, Block #XF1E,
    Head # F6DE-EB Ford Engine DFXU $1,975 $220

    183/3.0 V6 00 S Lincoln LS V6 DOHC 24 valve, W/Out oil cooler,
    Engine codes "9G-231AA, KG-230AA OR AB, XG 230AA OR AB" DFYS $2,785 $470

    183/3.0 V6 00 S Lincoln LS V6 DOHC 24 valve, With oil cooler,
    Engine codes "XG-231AA OR AB, XG-232AA OR AB, 9G-237AA OR AB" DFYT $2,785 $470

    183/3.0 V6 00 S Taurus & Sable, Duratec, 24 Valve, Roller cam,
    Block # F5DE-6015-EH, Head # F5DE-6090-FC Ford Engine DFYY $2,785 $470

    183/3.0 V6 01-02 S Taurus & Sable, Duratec, 24 Valve, Roller cam,
    Block # F5DE-6015-EH, Head # F5DE-6090-FC DFYZ $2,785 $470

    183/3.0 V6 01-02 S 01 Lincoln LA ALL & 02 Lincoln LS Auto trans,
    w/out oil cooler DOHC, 24 Valve, Duratec, DFYU $2,785 $470

    183/3.0 V6 01-04 1 01 Escape, Engine Codes "1G-754AA & AB" 02-04 All,
    DOHC, 24 Valve, W/Oil Cooler Ford Engine DFYX $2,785 $470

    183/3.0 V6 01-04 1 01 Escape, Engine Codes "1G-752AA & AB" 02-04 All,
    DOHC, 24 Valve, W/ out Oil Cooler DFYW $2,785 $470

    183/3.0 V6 02-03 2 Taurus FFV (Flex Fuel), FWD, OHV, Roller Cam,
    Block #2F1E, Head # F6DE-EB DFXP $2,085 $260

    183/3.0 V6 02-03 V Ford Ranger Engine FFV (Flex Fuel),FWD Roller Cam,
    Block #2L1E, Head # F6DE-EB DFWH $2,085 $260

    183/3.0 V6 02-03 U Ford Range Engine, RWD, Roller Cam, OHV, Block #2L1E,
    Head # F6DE-GC DFXV $2,085 $260

    183/3.0 V6 02-03 U Taurus & Sable, FWD, Roller cam, Block # 2L1-E,
    Head # F6DE-GC DFXY $2,085 $260

    183/3.0 V6 03-04 S Taurus & Sable, Duratec, 24 Valve, Roller cam,
    Block # XW4E-BA, RT Head # YF1E-6090-FC LFT Head #Y48E-6C064-BB DFWM $2,875 $485

    Mercury Villager, VG3OE, SOHC, 25mm Crank Snout,

    Mercury Villager, VG3OE, SOHC, 32mm Crank Snout, Head #85E.

    No Smog, Without breather Hole

    B, X
    Block #E1BE-BB, Bellhousing #E1SP-7976-AA Ford Engine

    Carbed, Oil Pump Kit, No Timing Cover. Fits Most Applications

    C, 3
    Carbed or F1, Oil Pump Kit, No Timing Cover. Fits Most Applications Ford Engine

    RWD, Non Roller, Balance Shaft, Block #E8SE, No Timing Cover

    FWD, Non Roller, Balance Shaft, Block # E8SE, No Timing Cover

    RWD, T-Bird, Cougar, , Supercharged, Roller Cam Without Balance Shaft.
    Steel Crank, if 89 check dampner #, if E9SE-CA, customers must change
    Flywheel & dampner. No Timing Cover Ford Engine

    FWD, Ford Crate Engine, Roller Cam, Balance Shaft, Block#E9DE-BJ,
    F1DE-EAHead# RFFOEE-27A. Not for Taurus Police Car or Continental. No Timing Cover

    RWD, Roller Cam, No Balance Shaft, No Timing Cover, Block # E9SE, F1SE,Head # E8DE, E9DE

    FWD, Roller Cam, Balance Shaft, Continental 91-94 & Taurus 91-95 Police Car.
    Block #E9DE- BJ, F1DE-EA, Head # F3SE-A20A, No Timing Cover

    RWD, Supercharged, Roller Cam Without Balance Shaft
    Block #F1 SE-CA, Head # F3SE-A2OA, No Timing Cover

    FWD, Windstar. 200HP, Split Intake Port, Block #F65E, Head #F65E-BC, Ford Engine

    RWD, Mustang. Split Intake Port 6 Intake Ports per Head,
    Block #F75E,Head #F75E-B22H, Crank #F65E-AC,, Roller Cam Ford Crate Engine

    FWD,Ford Windstar Engine . 200HP, Split Intake Port,
    Block #XF2E-AD, Head #XF2E-A22C,Balance Shaft. No Timing Cover

    RWD, Mustang Engine . 200HP, Split Intake Port,
    Block #XF2E-AD, Head #XF2E-A22C,Balance Shaft. No Timing Cover

    232/3.8 V6 01-02 4 Mustang Engine , RWD, 200HP,w/ Balance shaft,
    Block # 1L3E Head #XF2E, YF2E
    DFZR $2,585 $345

    232/3.8 V6 01-02 4 Windsta Engine , FWD, 200HP,w/ Balance shaft,
    Block # 1L3E Head #XF2E, YF2E
    DFZP $2,585 $345

    Auto Trans Only, Aerostar Engine 90-94, Explorer, Ranger 90-92.

    Manual Trans, Aerostar Engine ,90-94 & Explorer/Ranger 90-92.
    And 93-94 Auto & Manual Explorer, Rangers

    Federal Only, Aerostar, Explorer, Ranger. Block # 95TM-AB,
    Head # 95TM. Ford Engine

    California Only Ford Aerostar Engine, Explorer and Ranger.
    Block # 95TM-AB, Head # 95TM.

    Federal Only, Aerostar, Ford Explorer Engine & Ranger.
    Block # 97TM-AB, Head # 98TM-AD,Crank # 97TM-AA, 8 Bolt Flywheel

    California Only, Aerostar, Explorer & Ranger. Block #97TM-AB,Head # 98TM-AD,
    Crank # 97TM-AA, 8 Bolt Flywheel

    SOHC. 2WD only, Explorer Engine, Mountaineer, Block # 97JM-AE, Head # 97JM-CD,
    Crank # 97JM-AC. 8 Bolt Flywheel. Explorer, Mountaineer,

    244/4.0 V6 97-01 E 4 X 4 only, Explorer Engine, Mountaineer, Sport Trac with
    "OG" engine code SOHC, Block #97JM-AE, Head # 97JM-CD
    DFAC $2,875 $240

    244/4.0 V6 99-00 X Ranger Engine, Explorer Engine, OHV, Block #97TM-AB, Head #98TM
    DFZ8 $2,145 $240

    244/4.0 V6 02-03 E Explorer Engine, Mountaineer & Sport Trac, SOHC, Block # 1L2E, Head #1L2E
    DFDH $2,985 $285

    RWD, Engine Block #F75E-B, Head #F75E-B22H, F65E-BC, Crank #F65E-AC,Roller, Balance Shaft

    V6 96-98 2 RWD, Includes Valve covers, oil pan, timing cover,
    harmonic balancer, crank sensor, spark plugs, oil pump, oil filter & water pump
    VFW6 $2,269 $460

    RWD, Ford Crate Engine Block #XL3E-AD, Head #XL2E-A2OC, Crank #F65E-AC, Roller, Balance Shaft

    256/4.2 V6 99-01 2 RWD Includes, valve covers, oil pan timing cover
    w/oil pump, harmonic balancer, crank sensor, spark plugs, oil filter & water pump VFY2 $2,269 $460

    11/91 -92
    SOHC, Alum Heads, Block # F2VE-BJ, AODE Trans, Head # F1AE-H24C.
    Long Reach Spark Plugs, Seprentine Belt Tensioner NOT mounted on timing cover

    SOHC, Alum Heads, Block # F1AE-AM, AOD Trans, Head # F1AE-H24C.Production
    to 11/91, Long Reach Spark Plugs,

    SOHC, Alum Heads, Block # F2VE-BJ, AA, BD. Head # F1AE-H24C Short Reach
    Plug, AODE Trans, Seprentine Belt Tensioner NOT mounted on Timing Cover.

    Grand Marquis,Crown Vic Engine,Town Car Engine, SOHC, RWD, Alum Heads, Block #F2VE-AA,
    Head #F1AE, Crank #F1AE-4D,Front Cover #F3AE-6D080-AB, AODE Trans. Serpentine Belt
    Tensioner is Mounted to timing cover

    T-Bird Engine, Cougar Engine SOHC, Alum Heads, Block #F4VE-AA, Head #F4AE-H24C,
    Crank #F1AE-4D, Front Cover #F3AE-ABSerpentine Belt Tensioner is Mounted to timing cover

    Crown Vic, Grand Marquis, Town Car, SOHC, Aluminum Head, Romeo Plant, 16 valve,
    6 bolt flywheel, Block # F7AE-AA, Head #F5AE Ford Crate Engine DFCM

    Crown Vic Engine, SOHC, Windsor plant, 16 valve, 8 bolt flywheel, Block #F65E,Head # F65E,F75E DFW1

    Crown Vic, Grand Marquis,Town Car, Engine SOHC, Alum Heads, Romeo Plant,
    16 Valve. Block # F6AE F7AE Head # F5AE, 6 bolt flywheel

    T Bird, Cougar Engine, SOHC Romeo Plant 16 valve, 6 bolt flywheel,
    Block # F6AE F7AE Head # F5AE DFAP

    Mustang Engine, SOHC, Romeo Plant, 16 valve, 6 bolt flywheel,
    Block # F6AE F7AE Head # F5AE DFAT

    F-Series Truck Engine Expedition Engine, SOHC Romeo Plant,6 bolt flywheel,
    Block # F7AE XW7E, Head # F5AE DFXF

    F Series w/manual transmission only, Alum Heads, Windsor Plant, 16 Valve. With Flywheel.
    Block # F75E, Head# F65E F75E. temp sensor under #5 intake port DFAV

    F series & Expedition Engine auto trans, Alum Heads, Windsor Plant, 16 Valve. with Flywheel.
    Block # F75E, Head# F65E F75E. temp sensor under #5 intake port DFAW

    E series Van (Econoline), Alum Heads, Windsor Plant, 16 Valve. With Flywheel.
    Block # F75E, Head# F65E F75E. temp sensor under #5 intake port DFAX

    E series Van (Econoline), Alum Heads, Romeo Plant, 16 Valve. With Flywheel.
    Block # F7AE XW7E, Head# F5AE. temp sensor under #5 intake port DFAU

    X Mustang Engine SOHC P.I. Heads Windsor Plant, 16 Valve. 8 Bolt Flywheel.
    Block # F65E, Head# XL3E-C20D. temp sensor under #5 intake port DFXM

    99 6 Expedition SOHC, P.I. Heads, Windsor Plant, 16 Valve. 8 Bolt Flywheel.
    Block # F65E, Head# XL3E-C20D. temp sensor under #5 intake port DFZH

    00 W Crown Vic & Grand Marquis, Alum Heads, Romeo Plant, 16 Valve. 6 Bolt Flywheel.
    Block # F7AE, XW7E Head# F5AE-B22A,A22E, B24A. temp sensor under #5 intake port DFXT

    281/4.6 V8 00 X Mustang Engine, P.I. Heads, Windsor Plant, 16 Valve.
    8 Bolt Flywheel. Block # F75E, Head# XL3E-C20D. temp sensor under #5 intake port DFCF $2,875 $450

    281/4.6 V8 01 6 F Series Super Crew Only, P.I. Heads, Windsor Plant,
    16 Valve. 8 Bolt Flywheel. Block # F75E, Head# XL3E-C20D. temp sensor under #5 intake port DFZK $2,875 $450

    281/4.6 V8 01 W Crown Vic Engine & Grand Marquis Engine, P.I. Heads,
    Romeo Plant, 16 Valve. 6 Bolt Flywheel. Block # XW7E-AA, Head# 1L2E-D24D.
    temp sensor under #5 intake port DFXN $2,875 $450

    01 W
    F series & Expedition P.I. Heads, Romeo Plant, 16 Valve. 6 Bolt Flywheel.
    Block # XW7E-AA, Head# 1L2E-D24D. DFZF $2,875

    01 W
    E series (Econoline Van) , P.I. Heads, Romeo Plant, 16 Valve. 6 Bolt Flywheel.
    Block # XW7E-AA, Head# 1L2E-D24D. temp sensor under #5 intake port DFAF $2,875

    Mustang Engine, P.I. Heads, Romeo Plant, 16 Valve. 6 Bolt Flywheel.
    Block # YLE-AA, Head# 1L2E-DD. temp sensor under #5 intake port

    281/4.6 V8 02 X Mustang, P.I. Heads, Romeo Plant, 16 Valve. 6 Bolt Flywheel.
    Block # XW7E-AA, Head# 1L2E-DD. temp sensor under #5 intake port DFAJ $2,875 $450

    281/4.6 V8 02-03 W F Series Super Crew Only, P.I. Heads, RomeoPlant, 16 Valve.
    6 Bolt Flywheel. Block # 1L3E-D24D, Head# 1L2E-D24D. DFDC $2,875 $450

    281/4.6 V8 02-03 W Crown Vic (includes police interceptor) & Grand Marquis, P.I.
    Heads, Romeo Plant, 16 Valve. 6 Bolt Flywheel. Block # XW7E-AA, Head# 1L2E-D24D. DFAR $2,875 $450

    281/4.6 V8 02-03 W F series & Expedition P.I. Heads, Romeo Plant, 16 Valve.
    6 Bolt Flywheel. Block # XW7E-AA, Head# 1L2E-D24D. DFCC $2,875 $450

    281/4.6 V8 02-03 W E series (Econoline Van) P.I. Heads, Romeo Plant, 16 Valve.
    6 Block # XW7E-AA, Head# 1L2E-DD. DFCA $2,875 $450

    281/4.6 V8 02-03 W Explorer Engine P.I. Heads, Romeo Plant, 16 Valve.
    6 Bolt Flywheel. Block # 1L2E-6090-A32B, Head#1L2E-D24D. DFDE $2,875 $450

    Mark VIII, DOHC, MFI, 32 Valve, Alum Heads Ford Crate Engine

    281/4.6 V8 95-96 V Continental, DOHC, 32 Valve,Aluminum Heads
    Ford Crate Engine DFAH $3,135 $450
    Mark VIII, DOHC, MFI, 32 Valve, Alum Heads Ford Crate Engine

    281/4.6 V8 97-98 V Mark VIII, DOHC, MFI, 32 Valve, Alum Heads Ford Crate Engine DFAN $3,135 $450

    281/4.6 V8 97-98 V Continental, DOHC, MFI, 32 Valve, Alum Heads Ford Crate Engine DFAM $3,135 $450

    281/4.6 V8 99-00 V Continental, DOHC, MFI, 32 Valve, Alum Heads Ford Crate Engine DFYH N\A

    Continental, DOHC, MFI, 32 Valve, Alum Heads Ford Crate Engine

    5 Bolt Bellhousing, No Smog

    6 Bolt Bellhousing, No Smog

    B, K, E
    Dipstick in Pan or in Front of filter Mounting in Block. No Smog

    B, K, E
    6 Hole Smog in Head above Exhaust Ports, Dipstick in Block in Front of Oil filter or Pan

    E, Y
    Dipstick in Block behind Oil filter Mounting. No Smog

    6 Hole Smog in Head above Exhaust Ports, Dipstick in Block behind Oil filter

    Carb, 6 Hole Smog in Head, Bolt on Rockers

    Carb, No Smog, Bolt on Rockers

    Smog Holes In Head, With Knock Sensor. No Smog use DFF8

    No Smog Holes in Head, With Knock Sensor

    D, F, G
    Dipstick in Timing Cover, No Smog, some Engines equipped With later style cylinder Heads.

    F, G
    Smog in Rear of Head, Dipstick in Timing Cover. Not for Versailles.
    May Have late style Heads

    Smog in Side of Head, Dipstick in Front, Truck and Van

    F, G
    Crank #2M, 2MA, Smog, Dipstick Rear of Block. Not Versailles.
    If 80 check Crank number

    F, N
    Crank #2MAE or R1J, Smog, Not HO, Carb or TBI only

    F, N
    PERFORMANCE ONE, Flat Tappets, carb or TBI only, Not HO. **Not for M.P.F.I.

    F, N
    Crank #2MAE or R1J, Not HO, Non Roller Cam, 1 pc Rear Main Seal,
    3/8 Reach Spark Plugs, Crown Victoria & Grand Marquis

    F, N
    Fl, Not HO, 80-85 Car, 80-86 Truck & Van, Crank#2MAE or R1J

    HO, Non Roller Cam. Firing Order 13726548. Cars Only, Not for Trucks.
    3/8 Reach Spark Plugs, Roller Cam use DF94

    HO Only, Roller Cam, Firing Order 13726548 Ford Engine

    Car, Not HO, Roller Cam, 3/4 Long Reach Plugs. Truck see DFA4,91 car also see DFH2

    Fl, Trucks & Vans, Non Roller Cam, With Knock Sensor Ford Engine

    T, E
    Fl, Roller Cam, Knock Sensor, HO, Passenger car, 91-93 T-Bird, Cougar, 91-95Mustang

    Fl, Roller Cam, Knock Sensor, Truck & Van Only, For Car use DFH2 Ford Engine

    Fl, Roller Cam, Knock Sensor in Block, has 351W Firing order. Truck engine & Van engine Only.

    Explorer, MFI, Non Roller Cam, Block #F1SE, Head #F1ZE-AA, Knock Sensor
    in Block, firing order 13726548, GT cast next to #1 spark plug Ford Engine

    Explorer, MFI, Non Roller Cam, Block #F1 SE, Head #F77E-AA, Knock Sensor in Block,
    firing order 13726548, GTP cast next to #1 spark plug

    Medium Duty With 1 3/8 Crank Nose, No Smog Note: 12 month/12,000 mile warranty

    Heavy Duty, 4 Hole Smog Heads, 1 3/4 Crank Snout Note: 12 month/12,000 mile warranty

    E Series Van,Triton V8, SOHC,RWD, Block #F75E-6015-AF, Head #F75E-6090-C20A

    330/5.4 V8 97-98 L F Series, Expedition, Navigator, Triton V8, SOHC,RWD,
    Block #F75E-6015-AF, Head #F75E-6090-C20A Engines DFX7 $2,789 $450

    330/5.4 V8 99 L F250 & F350 Super Duty ONLY, Triton V8. Vin L. SOHC. RWD.
    Block #F75E-6015-AA. Head #F75E-C2OA. DFAY $2,789 $450

    330/5.4 V8 99-01 L F Series, Expedition, Navigator, Triton V8, SOHC,RWD,
    Block #F75E-AG, Head #XL3E-C2DD, P.I. Heads DFZ3 $2,899 $450

    330/5.4 V8 99-01 A Navigator, Triton V8, DOHC,
    Block #F75E-AG Head #XL1E DFZC $3,325 $450

    330/5.4 V8 99-00 3 Lightning Pickup, Supercharged,
    Block #F75E-6015-AA Head # 2L1E-6090-DB DFXW $3,665 $450

    330/5.4 V8 00-01 L E Series (Econoline Van), Triton V8, SOHC,RWD,
    Block #F75E-6015-AG, Head #XL3E-6090-C2DD, P.I. heads DFCK $2,899 $450

    330/5.4 V8 00-01 L F250 & F350 Super Duty ONLY, Triton V8. Vin L. SOHC. RWD.
    Block #F75E-6015-AG. Head #XL3E-6090-C2DD, P.I. Heads. DFCJ $2,850 $450

    330/5.4 V8 01-02 3 Lightning Pickup Supercharged, Triton V8,
    Block #F75E-6015-AA Head #2L1E-6090-DB DFXX $3,665 $450

    330/5.4 V8 02-03 L E Series (Econoline Van), Triton V8, SOHC, RWD,
    Block #2L1E-AD, Head #2L1E-D20A, P.I. heads DFCP $2,899 $450

    330/5.4 V8 02-03 L F Series, Expedition, NOT for Superduty, Triton V8,
    Block #2L1E-AD, Head #2L1E-D20A, P.I. Heads DFZ4 $3,175 $450

    330/5.4 V8 02-03 L F Series, Superduty, Excursion, Triton V8,
    Block #2L1E-AD Head #2L1e-D20A, P.I. Heads DFCS $3,175 $450

    02-03 Z
    Triton V8. VIN L, F Series Truck, Navigator, Expedition, SOHC. RWD.
    Block #F75E-601 5-AG. Head #F6TE-6090-J2OC. Crank # F75E-AE.

    02-03 Z
    Triton V8, RWD, SOHC, Block #F75E-AG, Head # XL3E-C2DD

    Cleveland 2 Barrel Carb, No Smog

    Midland. No Smog. Can use DF21 400 V8

    Midland, Smog, 8 Bolt Valve Cover. Can use DF21 400 V8

    Windsor, No Smog, 8 Intake Bolts per Head.

    G, H
    Windsor, No Smog, 6 Intake Bolts per Head. For 8 Intake Bolts per Head

    G, H
    Windsor, internal Smog, 6 Intake Manifold Bolts per Head. Passenger car to 85,
    Truck & Van Thru 87. 2BBL Carb

    G, H
    Windsor, HO, All HO's Have 4bbI carb, if 2bbl it is Not HO & useDF15. Non Roller

    Windsor, HO, Dipstick in Block, Non Roller Cam

    Windsor, Fl, Dipstick in Block, Roller Cam, Block #F4TE-AA. Except Lightning

    No Smog. Replaces 352 59-66.

    Smog 4 Holes per Head. Replaces 352 59-66. Truck. Can use DF2O, 390 ,
    Head#C1AE, C2SE, C4AE, C8AE

    Heavy Duty, No Smog, 1 3/4 inch Crank Snout. Can use DF5O Plug Smog

    Heavy Duty, 4 Hole Smog Heads, 1 3/4 inch Crank Snout

    Truck 2 Barrel Carb

    Truck 4 Barrel Carb

    Truck 2 or 4 Barrel Carb Note:

    H, M
    No Smog 8 Bolt Exhaust Manifold Only Head #C1AE, C2SE,C4AE, C8AE

    Heavy Duty, 1 3/4 inch Crank Snout, 4 Smog Holes per Head;

    Heavy Duty, No Smog, 1 3/4 Crank Snout;

    Smog in Heads

    No Smog

    Triton, SOHC, Aluminum Heads, Block #F7UE-CE, Head # F7UE-B2OA;

    415/6.8 V10 00-01 S Triton, SOHC, Aluminum Heads, Block #F7UE-CE,
    Head # F7UE-B2OA; 6899FNP N/A
    Diesel Long Block, After production 10/3/83, Block #440CL, 996C1,
    Head #215, 885CL,Crank #420C;


    Diesel, Complete Drop in Engine with accessories, Non turbo

    Diesel Complete Drop in Engine with accessories, Turbo upgrade

    429/7 0
    Truck, Block #D9TE-AB, Head #D5TE-HA, D9TE-FA, 3/8 Bolts on
    Head for Accessories, 1 3/4 inch Crank Snout;

    Truck, Block #D9TE-AB, Head #E6TE-EA, Carb, 1 3/4 inch Crank Snout,

    Truck, Block #D9TE-AB, Head #E6TE-EA, Carb, 1 3/4 inch Crank Snout,
    7/16 Bolts on Front of Head for Accessories;

    Truck, EFI, Block #D9TE, Head #E7TE, 1 3/4 inch Crank, Valve Covers Bolt Thru Center;

    Diesel Long Block, Block # 000CL, Head #O3OCL, Crank #420C

    Diesel Complete Drop in with accessories, Non-Turbo

    Diesel Complete Drop in with accessories, Turbo Upgrade,

    IDI, Turbo Diesel Long Block, Block # 223C95, Head #609C91,

    IDI Diesel Complete Drop in with accessories, Turbo,



    A, J
    Non Smog, Crank #2YA, 2YAB. If #3Y Crank use DF23

    A, J, L
    No Smog, Crank #3Y, 3YAB.


    Fl, If carb use DFA3

    Fl, Block # D9TE-AB, Head # F3TE-JA

    ================================================== ===========
    AOD Transmission article from 94'


    The C4 to AOD Transmission Swap
    How I Spent My 1994 Christmas Vacation
    by Dan Jones

    As promised, I performed the C4 to AOD transmission swap in my parent's 1971
    Mustang convertible. The reason for the transmission swap was to gain the
    benefits of the AOD's 0.675:1 overdrive gear (lower cruise RPM, increased
    MPG, potentially better acceleration). The car in question is powered by a mild
    302 (600 CFM Holley, dual plane intake, mild cam, dual exhausts) and, before
    the swap, had a perfectly good C4 transmission. While this is essentially a
    bolt in job, there are lots of little details that you should be aware of to
    make things go smoothly. These details, in no particular order, include:

    Procuring the Transmission
    Extension Housing
    Converter Compatibility
    Gear Ratios
    Working with Aluminum
    Transmission Jack and Jackstands
    Transmission Tunnel Clearance
    Exhaust System Clearance
    Transmission Crossmember and Insulator
    Flexplate Diameter and Balance
    Block Plate
    Nuts and Bolts
    Driveshaft and Yoke
    Mechanical Interlocks
    Shifter Operation
    Speedometer Gear
    Electrical Connections
    Throttle Valve Operation
    Hydraulic Fittings
    Dipstick Tube
    Drain Plugs
    Transmission Fluid
    Shift Kits and Transmission Coolers

    To give you an idea of what's involved in a swap like this, I've covered my
    experience with each of these details in the paragraphs below. I've also
    listed some comparative weights, dimensions, and gear ratios at the end of
    this posting.

    Procuring the Transmission
    If you're pulling the AOD from a car, getting all of the related stuff
    (bolts, electrical connector, dipstick tube, converter, yoke, block plate,
    linkages, levers, shifter, hydraulic fittings, etc.), will make life a lot
    easier. However, we used a transmission purchased from a friend of my Dad's
    who rebuilds transmissions. The price was right ($150 rebuilt), but we
    had to come up with all the bits and pieces. Because of the Christmas
    holiday, getting all the right pieces was harder than usual, but we managed.

    Extension Housing
    When purchasing your transmission, be aware that there are two tailshaft
    lengths used on AOD's. The short model is the one that is closest to the C4
    in overall length. I forgot to measure it but the SVO catalog says it's
    10.1" long. The catalog also indicates the short extension housing AOD was used
    in all passenger cars except rear wheel drive Lincoln Marks and Continentals
    (not sure about the Town Cars), 2WD F-150 trucks built after 11/81, and 83-85
    E-150 vans. Also, don't confuse the AOD with the AOD-E, which uses electronic
    control. There are also extension housing variations among C4's, with a
    short tailshaft model (6 5/8") used on some pickups and vans. Our C4 was the
    standard tailshaft model (13 1/8") that was used in most applications.

    Converter Compatibility
    The AOD transmission and torque converter are a matched pair. The AOD uses
    a hollow two piece input shaft (one shaft inside the other) for lock-up
    purposes and requires a specific torque converter. This arrangement is used to
    bypass the converter torque multiplication in higher gears (60% in third and 100%
    in overdrive) for better fuel economy. This is an attractive feature when
    using a high stall speed converter, since locking up the converter eliminates the
    excessive slippage (and the attendant heat generation, RPM rise, and
    increased fuel consumption) associated with such converters. On the down-side, the
    input shaft is weaker than a similarly sized solid one piece design and you
    lose the torque multiplication effect.

    Gear Ratios
    The first three gears of the AOD and C4 are of similar ratio. We were
    looking for longer legs and increased fuel economy so we left our rear end gears
    alone. If better acceleration is the goal, a ring and pinion swap may be in order.
    The beauty of this swap is that the AOD's 0.67:1 overdrive ratio can make a
    3.73:1 ring and pinion act like a cruising 2.50:1 ratio. Come to think of
    it, we've got some extra 3.50:1 gears so maybe I can talk Dad into swapping
    them in.

    Working with Aluminum
    Like the C6 and C4, the AOD has an aluminum case so use a never-seize
    compound on the aluminum threads (e.g. bolting the insulator to the case).
    Also, when working with small aluminum threads (e.g. dropping the pan), I
    prefer a beam-type torque wrench so I can tell when I'm approaching the
    desired torque value. I don't trust the click-type wrenches on the little

    Transmission Jack and Jackstands
    Despite its aluminum case, the AOD is no lightweight. I measured 150 lbs
    (without fluid or converter - as measured on Mom's bathroom scale) for the
    tranny and 34 lbs for the converter, so a transmission jack is recommended.
    Get the car up in the air as high as possible to give yourself some room to
    maneuver. We used a pair of stacked railroad ties underneath each front
    tire and a pair of tall jackstands under the rear axle housing.

    Transmission Tunnel Clearance
    The AOD is beefier around the middle than the C4, so it uses up more space
    in the transmission tunnel. Our '71 Mustang was designed to swallow a C6
    so there was no problem. It might be tight on cars with narrow tunnels
    (like 65-66 Mustangs), but I'm told they will fit with no problem.

    Exhaust System Clearance
    No problem here on our particular car (dual exhaust without a crossover).
    We could have installed the AOD without ever touching the exhaust, but we
    decided to unbolt the pipes from the exhaust manifolds for extra working
    room. This will vary from car to car so be prepared for potential exhaust
    work. Since I had the pipes unbolted from the manifolds, I took the
    opportunity to put in new exhaust donuts.

    Transmission Crossmember and Insulator
    The only bit of true fabricating that was required for this swap was the
    transmission mount crossmember. While the AOD and C4 overall lengths are
    within a half inch of each other, the mounting pad for the insulator on the
    AOD is 2 inches farther aft, so the crossmember mounting point needs to be
    moved an equal amount. Whether you need to buy or fabricate a custom cross
    member depends on the car you're swapping the transmission into. On some
    full-sized cars, it's supposed to be as easy as switching to a second set of
    aft mounting holes. Since I planned to do the swap over Christmas break, in
    another state, and was spending someone else's money, I decided to purchase
    a custom crossmember, rather than fabricate one. I purchased it from a shop
    that's now out of business but there are other vendors who carry the
    crossmember. Also, a friend who swapped an AOD into his '69 Mach 1 found
    an FMX crossmember can be adapted to fit with only minor modification.

    Flexplate Diameter and Balance
    One of the more important parts of the swap is to choose the proper
    flexplate for your application. The integral bellhousing AOD requires a flexplate
    with 164 teeth (approximately 14 1/4" diameter with an 11 7/16" torque converter
    bolt pattern) for proper starter placement and converter compatibility. The
    C4, however, uses a detachable bellhousing that is matched to one of three
    different flexplate sizes (148, 157, and 164 teeth). The 148 teeth
    flexplates are comparatively rare, having been used in cars like the V8 Mustang II.
    The 157 teeth flexplates were generally used in 289/302 small and mid-sized
    cars, while the 164 teeth flexplates were used in 289/302 full-size cars and
    351W/351C applications. The C4 164 teeth flexplates and the AOD 164 teeth
    flexplates will physically interchange, but there are two balance weights
    (pre-'81 302's use a 28.2 oz-in balance weight, '81-up 5.0 HO's are 50
    oz-in), to be concerned with. I haven't had a chance to verify but I think all
    351W's and 351C's used 28.2 oz-in balance factors. Also, the catalog I looked at
    suggested that 1981 and up non-HO 302's are still 28.2 oz-in (at least to
    1990). Anyone know for sure? In my case, the flexplate in the 1971 Mustang
    came with 157 teeth and a 28.2 oz-in balance factor, so it required
    replacing. Since they both have 164 teeth and 28.2 oz-in balance factors, I was under
    the impression that flexplates from either a 351W w/AOD or early 289/302 w/C4
    from a full-size car would work. Looking through the books at the parts store
    showed that these were not common part numbers, and listed the 351W part as
    working with an AOT, not AOD, transmission. Not knowing if the AOT
    indicated a subtle variation that I was unaware of, I decided to order the early
    289/302/C4/full-size part (OEM D1AZ-6375-A, Saginaw XF15). This turned out
    to be a mistake. When we put the converter and transmission up to the engine
    for a fit check, the modeling clay we had put in the crank pilot showed the
    converter snout was barely making contact. Apparently there is a difference
    in flexplate depth. It all would have bolted together and the starter may
    have even managed to reach the flexplate teeth, but there would have been no
    support for the converter and the starter would have eventually chewed up
    the flexplate. Procuring a 351W/AOD flexplate over the holidays turned out to
    be an ordeal (dealers wanted 14 days), but it was required for proper converter
    snout to crank pilot placement, while retaining the proper diameter and
    balance. We finally found a transmission supply house that had the right
    piece. We put the 351W/AOD next to the early 289/302/C4/164 teeth part and
    there was a difference in height. Since then I have checked some
    aftermarket catalogs and they show the same part number for both applications, so buyer
    beware. The part we finally obtained was from Sealed Power and corresponded
    to OEM E0AZ-6375-A (164 teeth flexplate, 28.2 oz-in balance factor, 351W
    with AOD applications). If you're swapping an AOD onto an '81 or later 5.0,
    you'll need the AOD flexplate (164 teeth, 50.0 oz-in balance factor, for 5.0
    with AOD applications). I think the OEM part number for the late 5.0/AOD
    is E2AZ-6375-A, but I didn't verify this. In a pinch, you could swap (weld)
    balance weights between flexplates to get the proper balance factor. If you
    choose to do this, remember that the balance factor is a moment of inertia
    (distance time mass) so keep the product of the distance from the weight to
    the center of the flexplate and the balance weight (plus any additional weld
    weight) equal to a constant (either 28.2 or 50.0 oz-in).

    Block Plate
    A block plate (the thin stamped sheet metal plate that fits between the
    engine block and transmission housing) which matches the large AOD
    bellhousing is also required. This plate provides the correct starter
    location and engagement depth for the torque converter snout in the crank
    pilot (assuming you have the right flexplate). We used one from an early
    289 full-size application (C4 with the large bellhousing).

    Nuts and Bolts
    The bosses on the AOD bellhousing are thicker than those of the C4, so
    longer bolts are required. We didn't have enough of the proper length (2 1/8 to
    2 1/4" long bolts), so we cut down a few longer bolts to get the desired
    number of threads. Use a stiff piece of wire as a gauge to make sure they
    don't bottom out. You can re-use the C4 torque converter nuts on the AOD
    converter but it's a good idea to use new ones since these tend to round
    off. Also be aware that the AOD is a mixed standard transmission, despite what
    the METRIC embossed into the pan may imply. Some bolts are metric, others are
    not. Generally, the tranny internals are metric, but the places where the tranny
    connects to the car (insulator, hydraulic fittings, speedo-drive, etc.) are

    The original starter was retained and aligned properly.

    Driveshaft and Yoke
    When we first put the yoke into the tranny, it appeared we would need to
    shorten the driveshaft by an inch or so. This was unexpected since the AOD
    is only a 1/2 inch longer than the C4. Upon closer investigation, it became
    apparent the yoke was the problem. We had to trim the C4 yoke to get it to
    fit properly. The AOD yokes must be a bit shorter, so pick one up if you

    Mechanical Interlocks
    The '71 Mustang has a mechanical interlock which locks the shifter into park
    whenever the ignition key is in the lock position. I'm not sure what year
    this first appeared on Fords, but I know my '66 doesn't have it. You could
    bypass the interlock but we kept it functional. This required removing the
    TV/shifter shaft assembly from the AOD (involves dropping the pan and
    filter). Using the original C4 lever as a guide, we cut a spare lever and welded it
    on the shaft. This caused a problem since we were unable to remove the small
    circular grommet that seals the end of the concentric cylinders of the
    TV/shifter shaft assembly without damaging it. The C4 has a rubber O-ring
    in this area but the AOD uses a special formed piece which, like the
    flexplate, wasn't easy to find over the holidays ("Sure we've got one but
    you'll have to buy the $119 rebuild kit to get it").

    Shifter Operation
    We retained the C4 floor mounted shifter in the Mustang. Eyeballing the AOD
    and C4 shift levers, it looked like the hole in the AOD shift lever would
    need to be moved a bit so we welded up hole and drilled a new one. Once
    everything was assembled, we adjusted the linkage to get proper engagement of the gears
    and interlocks, but the pointer was off. It turns out the hole was probably
    in the right spot to begin with. I believe there is a quite a bit of
    variation in Ford shift levers (especially between floor and column mounted
    shifters, but also between body styles), so this will need to be checked on
    a case-by-case basis.

    Speedometer Gear
    The speedometer driven gear assembly from the '71, including bolt and
    retaining clip, slipped right into the AOD. I didn't get a chance to verify
    the ratios, but the speedometer operated normally. There may be some
    variation (seven and eight teeth gears?) with the AOD drive gear (the gear
    inside the tailshaft housing), so you may have to change driven gears for
    proper calibration.

    Electrical Connections
    The AOD uses a four pin electrical connector for the reverse/backup lamps
    and neutral sensing switch. We didn't get one with our tranny, so we soldered
    some wires on and used a liquid rubber compound to insulate. If you end up
    soldering, be careful not to melt the plastic housing that holds the pins in

    Throttle Valve Operation
    The AOD does not use engine vacuum and a modulator valve to sense load.
    Instead, a throttle valve is used which moves proportional to throttle pedal
    travel. Unlike a kick-down rod, the TV linkage has to operate throughout
    the full travel. This is one of the most important parts of the swap to get
    right. Failure to do so will cause poor shift quality and can ruin the
    transmission. When adjusting the linkage, it is safer to err on the side of
    hard shifts. There are a several ways of implementing the TV linkage and
    the linkages can be pirated from cars or trucks that came with AOD's and carbs
    or throttle body injection. A rod arrangement was used on AOD cars equipped
    with carbs and TBI while a cable was used on SEFI cars. We were planning on
    getting the linkage off a variable venturi (VV) carb from a local junkyard
    that had a stack of them, but they had recently tossed them all out. We
    ended up just adapting the kick down rod to serve as the TV linkage. The
    trick is to ensure the proper range of travel of the transmission TV lever
    for the entire carburetor throttle range. We used another AOD equipped car
    to look at to get the proper lever orientation and ratios. After we were
    finished with the swap, I noticed a friend's 1981 AOD equipped pickup truck
    has a rod linkage with an adjustable lever at the transmission and a
    threaded arrangement at carb that looks like it might work nicely as a swap linkage.
    Remember, you'll need a way to adjust the linkage to vary shift feel.
    Alternatively, you can purchase an aftermarket TV cable kits (available from
    Windsor-Fox (, Total Performance, and others).
    For more information on alternatives, find a copy of the May 1990 issue of
    Super Ford magazine. The article "A-OK AOD" contains a sidebar on adapting
    the AOD to non-stock applications. Ignore the part about your stock
    flexplate and block plate working just fine and pay close attention to the linkage

    Hydraulic Fittings
    The hydraulic fittings on our AOD were larger than those of the previous C4.
    After the existing lines were trimmed to their proper length, two adapter
    fittings (1/4" (ID) pipe, 5/16" (OD) tubing) were used to mate the fittings
    on the transmission lines to the AOD case. I believe the lines on our car
    were not original since they looked like new and had quite a bit of excess
    length. They were also harder than any factory line I've dealt with. Even
    though we used the proper tubing benders and double flair tools, the lines
    were very hard to work with.

    Dipstick Tube
    With a minor bending of the attachment bracket, the AOD dipstick tube went
    in easily. The AOD tube proved to be shorter than the C4 tube and ended up
    in close proximity to the export brace, so a long neck funnel was required to
    fill the transmission. Of course, this will vary from car to car.

    Drain Plugs
    One thing I forgot to do was to install a drain plug kit when I had the pan
    off. B&M makes an inexpensive kit that, along with our stock converter's
    drain plug, would make it very easy to do complete fluid changes.

    Transmission Fluid
    AOD's take a lot of Dexron-II transmission fluid (the C4 used type F). The
    Chilton's we checked for capacities quoted 24 pints (12 quarts) for a
    totally dry transmission like ours.

    Shift Kits and Transmission Coolers
    This particular car is not subjected to much abuse so we didn't install a
    shift kit or auxiliary transmission cooler. To begin with, we'll simply
    adjust the TV linkage to give firmer shifts and see how it works out.
    For performance applications, a friend uses the Karl Baumann shift kit and
    a Thunderbird C-servo upgrade and really likes the combo. Because we might
    be putting an AOD behind my brother's 351W and a friend's 351C-2V, I did
    some research on AOD durability and performance modifications. There are several
    things that should be done to an AOD, if you want it to live behind a high
    performance engine. It may be several weeks before I can get to it, but
    I'll try to post a summary of my findings. Also, AOD-E's have the durability
    upgrades from the factory and can be swapped using one of Baumann's
    controllers. Check Baumann's web site at
    This sight also has a good overview of the AOD and other Ford automatic

    Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet, since I had to
    get back to St. Louis. I left the car up on jackstands, with the wheels
    spinning in all gears. I'll get some time behind the wheel the next time I'm in
    Ohio. While there are lots of little details (and a couple major ones), this is
    definitely a do-able swap, especially if you get all the related parts from
    the same car. I've included all the variations that I am aware of, but
    remember YMMV. As a reference, I've included some comparative C4 and AOD
    dimensions and weights, plus a bunch of gear ratios.

    Dan Jones

    C4 and AOD Dimensions

    Overall Length (bellhousing to tailshaft housing end, flat-to-flat):
    AOD - 30 3/4"
    C4 - 30 1/4"

    "Engine Swapping Tips and Techniques" lists C4 length as 27 3/4" (C6 length
    28 1/2" or 28 3/4"). I may have measured to the end of the output shaft,
    not to the end of the tailshaft housing.

    Distance from Bellhousing to Insulator Mount (flat to mounting hole centerline):
    AOD - 21 3/4"
    C4 - 19 3/4"

    Torque Converter Stud Spacing (centerline-to-centerline)
    AOD/C4/164 teeth flexplate - 8 1/4" between closest studs, 11 7/16" between
    farthest studs (stud pattern diameter)
    C4/157 teeth flexplate - 7 3/4" between closest studs, 10 5/8" between
    farthest studs (stud pattern diameter)

    Transmission Lengths from "The E4OD", Ford High Performance, April 1995

    Trans Bellhousing Overall Length
    Face to Trans From Bellhousing
    Mount Length To Tailshaft End

    C4 20 1/4" 30 1/2"
    C6 22 1/2" 33 1/2"
    AOD 22 1/4" 30 3/4"
    E4OD 29 3/8" 37 1/2"

    Torque Converter Snout Diameter (from early SVO catalog)
    289, 302, 351W/C/M, 400, 429/460 - 1.375"
    FE series and early '68 Lincoln 460's - 1.848"

    Flexplate Diameters
    164 teeth - 14 3/16" (13" converter)
    157 teeth - 13 1/4" (11" converter)
    148 teeth - ?

    C4 Variations

    Large bellhousing - smooth flair case, twin bolt circles (case to housing,
    outer secures bellhousing to trans case, inner secures oil pump to case),
    3 locating tabs, 14 3/16" flexplate, 13" converter, no dipstick hole in
    main case (dipstick goes into right front corner of pan), used in small-block
    powered large cars and light trucks.

    Small bellhousing - step case, single seven bolt circle (case to housing),
    13 1/4" flex plate, 11" torque converter, dipstick hole in case (seals with
    an O-ring), five bolt ('64 1/2 and early '65 Mustangs, etc.) and six bolt
    versions, used in small and medium small-block powered cars.

    Trans-Dapt supposedly makes adapters for six bolt blocks to five bolt
    transmissions (need to check on details).

    Top bellhousing bolt holes are 5 1/8" apart.

    "C" intermediate servo (289 hipo applications) is largest but rare.
    "H" servo is next largest, used on 302 4V engines from 1968.
    "A" servo is typical stock unit.

    Pinto governor allows highest rpm shifts, p/n D7ZZ-7C063-C.

    C5 pan interchanges with C4 and is deeper.

    There was a revision in mid '70's to nine mounting bolts for the valve body,
    previously used 8 bolts.

    Main cases and bellhousings for large and small versions are not
    interchangeable. 5 and 6 bolt small bellhousings are interchangeable between
    each other (on the case side).

    Entire 6 bolt (small or large bellhousings) transmissions, except for
    dipstick locations, are interchangeable in many cars (some smaller cars
    require the small bellhousing variant).

    C5 bellhousing looks similar, but has a completely round hole in the front
    pump area and is not interchangeable with C4 bellhousing.

    Standard Tailshaft - 13 1/8" long, most applications.
    Short Tailshaft - 6 5/8" long, some pickups and vans.

    Input Shaft Spline Count (8 cylinder and some 6 cylinder applications)
    '70 and later - 26 splines
    pre-'70 - 24 splines

    Note: Some 1970 input shafts have 26 splines on both ends ('71 and later have
    24 splines on one end and 26 on the other), making them the most desirable
    for drag racing applications.

    Need to add C4 valve body variations (green-dot, cruise-o-matic, etc.) and
    AOD shift sequence

    Four and six cylinder versions are light duty (fewer clutch plates).

    Some C4's (late '60s, early 70's Mavericks? need to check details) had
    full-manual valve bodies.

    Transmission Weights

    AOD (without converter or fluid) - 150 lbs
    AOD stock torque converter - 34 lbs
    C4 (without converter or fluid) - 110 lbs
    C4 torque converter - ? lbs
    C6 (without converter or fluid) - 140 lbs
    C6 torque converter - 30 lbs small block, 31 lbs big block
    FMX (without torque converter, unknown fluid level) - 160 lbs
    FMX torque converter - 32 lbs
    Ford-o-Matic (pre-FMX), cast iron case - 228 lbs


    - AOD and C4 weights are as measured by me using a standard bathroom scale.
    - FMX and C6 torque converter weights provided by Steve Grossen (also used
    bathroom scale).
    - Ford-o-Matic weight is an assembly line weight provided by my Dad.
    - C6 weight is from "Engine Swapping Tips and Techniques" which also lists
    the C4 at 109 lbs.

    Ford Transmission Ratios Comparison

    Stock Stock WR Stock WR E4OD
    C4 C6 C6 AOD AOD

    1st 2.46 2.46 2.72 2.40 2.84 2.72
    2nd 1.46 1.46 1.54 1.47 1.55 1.53
    3rd 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
    4th ---- ---- ---- 0.67 0.70 0.71

    1984 85-86 1983 1984 85-89 90/SR WC TR TR
    SVO T5 SVO T5 T5 T5 T5 T5 T5 3550 3750S

    1st 4.30 3.50 2.95 2.95 3.35 3.35 2.95 3.27 3.18
    2nd 2.37 2.14 1.94 1.94 1.93 1.99 1.94 1.99 2.06
    3rd 1.50 1.36 1.34 1.34 1.29 1.33 1.34 1.34 1.39
    4th 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
    5th 0.76 0.78 0.73 0.63 0.68 0.68 0.63 0.68 0.65

    TL TL cast alum T10L T10M 4+1 ROD ROD T56

    1st 2.78 2.32 3.29 3.07 2.36 2.36 3.27 3.27 3.01 2.97
    2nd 1.93 1.69 1.84 1.72 1.76 1.62 2.13 2.13 1.88 1.94
    3rd 1.36 1.29 1.00 1.00 1.41 1.20 1.57 1.57 1.46 1.35
    4th 1.00 1.00 0.81 0.70 1.00 1.00 1.23 1.23 1.19 1.00
    5th ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.82
    6th ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- 0.76 0.62 0.62

    - C4 ratios are from the 1966 Mustang Illustrated Facts Book which also shows
    a 1.47 2nd gear ratio for certain transmissions.
    - AOD overdrive ratio is sometimes listed as 0.675:1.
    - WR C6 indicates a C6 with the wide ratio gear set from SVO Motorsports.
    - WR AOD indicates an AOD with the wide ratio gear set from SVO Motorsports.
    - E4OD is Ford's heavy duty automatic overdrive transmission.
    - 1984 SVO T5 was combined with a 3.45:1 final drive ratio
    - 1985-1986 SVO T5 was combined with a 3.73:1 final drive ratio
    - Some 1985 T5's used 1984 gear ratios (carry over production).
    - Certain 1989 T5's used 1990/SR gear ratios.
    - SR T5 indicates Ford service replacement transmission for '85-up 3.35 box.
    - WC T5 indicates SVO Motorsports World Class T5 (M-7003-CA, E4ZM-7003-A).
    - All T5 ratios from Muscle Mustangs and Fast Ford, June 1991, "Mission:
    - When comparing ratios from automatic and manual transmissions, the torque
    multiplication of the torque converter must also be considered.
    - The AOD provides 60% lock-up in third gear and 100% lock-up in fourth gear
    (eliminates torque multiplication).
    - SROD indicates single rail overdrive.
    - T10 and SROD ratios from "Engine Swapping Tips and Techniques".
    - SROD aluminum case gear ratios are for a 79,82,83 Mustang V8 applications.
    - SROD cast iron case gear ratios are for 77-78 V8 Granada applications.
    - WR TL indicates wide ratio top loader.
    - CR TL indicates close ratio top loader.
    - BW T10 indicates Borg Warner T10 used in some Fords.
    - TR 3550 indicates the 5 speed overdrive Tremec transmission. The TR-3750S
    is a proposed close ratio version which was never produced. The TR-4250
    version was essentially a Reider re-worked TR-3550 and has the same ratios
    as the TR-3550.
    - Tremec information taken from the September 1992 Super Ford article "Top
    Loader Plus One".
    - RG 4+1 indicates the Richmond Gear non-overdrive 5 speed transmission
    (formerly produced by Doug Nash).
    - RG ROD indicates the Richmond Gear overdrive 6 speed transmission.
    - Some RG transmissions are available with alternative (3.27/2.14, 4.06/2.22
    4.41/2.22) first and second gear ratios.
    - Richmond Gear information taken from JBA and Summit Racing catalogs.
    - T56 ratios are for the Ford aftermarket version. The GM and Chrysler
    versions have different ratios.
    - All gear ratios are for Ford versions of the particular transmissions.
    - Concerning the SVO 4 cylinder transmission ratios, Dan Malek notes:
    I have yet to find a '85 or '86 SVO with those gear ratios. I know,
    those numbers get published everywhere, but I have measured up at
    least half a dozen original '86 SVO transmissions. I have always
    found the standard 4-cylinder ratios, something like 4.05, 2.32,
    1.55, 1, 0.81. Those '84 SVO numbers don't look quite correct either.

    Balance Factor Information

    1981-and-up 5.0 HO - 50.0 oz-in
    1981-and-up 302 (non-5.0 HO) - 28.2 oz-in
    Pre-1981 289/302 - 28.2 oz-in
    351W and 351C-400 - 28.2 oz-in
    Last edited by jcassity; 04-14-2018 at 04:37 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Erin, Tennessee
    Feedback Score
    10 (100%)


    TV cable links not working

    1994 Lincoln Mark VIII

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Gap Mills WV 24941
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    15 (100%)


    should be good now,, only 2 hours later fixing all the links. there are a couple dead ones though.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Erin, Tennessee
    Feedback Score
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    Lots of great info here. This should be moved to the "greatest hits/tips" section and be made a sticky.

    1994 Lincoln Mark VIII

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20thanniver-ls View Post
    Lots of great info here. This should be moved to the "greatest hits/tips" section and be made a sticky.
    '84 and '87 Mustangs
    '98 Explorer

    FORD forever!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Brno, Czech republic
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    Here is a complete scan of 1986 EVTM. It's in high resolution.
    '85 Thunderbird TC '86 Thunderbird TC '97 Scorpio 2.3 GHIA

    T-Bird / Cougar DIY stuff

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Gap Mills WV 24941
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    15 (100%)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Brno, Czech republic
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    Which? I see all of them.
    '85 Thunderbird TC '86 Thunderbird TC '97 Scorpio 2.3 GHIA

    T-Bird / Cougar DIY stuff

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Gap Mills WV 24941
    Feedback Score
    15 (100%)


    it may just be my pc but several are not loading. is free also but i see you already have this site setup to use.

    maybe someone else can check the link here in the USA

    Thank you for doing this scan!!!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Southern Maryland
    Feedback Score


    Some of the pages look blank on the summery page but are there if I click on them.

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