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Thread: Stock K-Member Dimension Info Thread

  1. #1
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    Default Stock K-Member Dimension Info Thread

    OK,
    I want to compile some info on stock Tbird and Mustang K-members to help with the continual talking in circles on the subject.

    K-Members to be discussed:

    -83-86 Tbird/ Cougar
    -87-88 Tbird/ Cougar
    -79-93 Mustang (non-SVO) (I know there are a couple variations)
    -94-95 Mustang
    -96-04 Mustang

    Dimensions to be noted:

    A - Control arm length
    B - Width of front control arm mounting holes
    C - Width of rearward control arm mounting holes
    D - Vertical height between upper and lower frame mounting points
    E - Width and orientation of lower frame mounting holes
    F - Ball joint to ball joint width (Not track width, as wheel backspacing/offset will alter this)

    These dimensions are to ideally be taken from K-members that are not in a car, and thus are easy to get "accurate" measurements from.

    For now, when you post in this thread, list the car the K-member is from that you are measuring and list the dimensions you are reporting. I'll compile it all later on and make it a sticky.

    If you have any other suggestions or additions, please feel free to mention them, but let's keep this thread clear of clutter and heresay and just report actual data.

    This should eventually help clear up all the questions and fuzzy, grey areas on what happens when you put different parts together.
    Long live the 4-eyes! - '83 Tbird Turbo

  2. #2
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    A couple examples I have:

    94-95 Mustang
    B - 23.25"
    C - 30.25"


    79-87 Mustang (From Mustang Handbook 2)
    B - 22.75"
    C - 30.125"
    F - 51.37"

    80 Mustang (Measured)
    B - 22.5"
    C - 30.5"
    F - 50.75"

    87 Mustang (Measured)
    B - 23.5"
    C - 31.5"
    D - 7.625"
    F - 51.75"

    88-93 Mustang (From Mustang Handbook 2)
    B - 23.75"
    C - 31.125"
    F - 52.37"
    Last edited by Chuck W; 03-05-2010 at 01:15 AM.
    Long live the 4-eyes! - '83 Tbird Turbo

  3. #3
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    do you still have the stock Kmember from my car?


    edit*
    guess brent answered this question i seem to be suffering from CRS, cause i knew that.
    Last edited by gumby; 03-03-2010 at 08:42 PM.
    gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

  4. #4
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    The two I have:

    85-86
    A-13.00"
    B-24.50"
    C-31.75"
    D-8.25"
    E-32.375"

    87-88 (gumby's old k-member)
    B-23.00"
    C-30.50"
    D-8.25"
    E-32.375"


    Brent
    Last edited by BCA; 03-04-2010 at 11:14 PM.
    1985 Mercury Cougar XR-7 - 5-speed
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  5. #5
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    Brent-
    Can you measure D & E on one of those K-members you have?
    Long live the 4-eyes! - '83 Tbird Turbo

  6. #6
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    So far, it looks like for "D"

    Tbird = 8.25"
    Mustang = 7.625"

    Difference = 0.625"
    Long live the 4-eyes! - '83 Tbird Turbo

  7. #7
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    thats interesting....
    gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

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    Yeah, I'm going to double-check that K-member I have in the garage this weekend to see what it measures out to.
    Long live the 4-eyes! - '83 Tbird Turbo

  9. #9
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    Chuck, I have a 2000 GT k-member. I'll try to get those measurements soon and post them up for you.

    John


    86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
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  10. #10
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    This is a timely question since I'm putting a Team Z crossmember in my car this week-end.

    This is what I came out with using a straight edge and tape;

    1987 Turbo coupe (B and C are a lot different than BCA?)

    A 14.25 (centerline of bolts to center of ball joint stud)
    B 24.0
    C 29.75
    D 8.125 (1/8 inch less than Chuck?)
    E Outside hole 32 and inside 27.5
    F 53.625 (flat on floor, marking the concrete to center of stud)

    The Team Z crossmember is (I know it says stock but I thought I would throw this in)

    A 13.25
    B 23.50
    C 29.0
    D 7.75 (so I came out with only 3/8 difference, chuck had 5/8)
    E Outside 32 and inside holes 28
    F 52.0 inches

    One thing that was interesting is that the Team Z control arm also moves my lower ball joint ahead 1 inch (forward to front of car).

    In order to get the two lower bolts to line up I had to cut the inside out and use a larger washer. I could have just hogged it out but this was much easier to do and not much would be left anyways.

    Mustang CC plates are completely different than the T-bird. I'm going to make these work with drilling since I spent the money but if I had to do it over again I would have got the correct ones.

    There's enough flex in the new crossmenber to make it bolt up without shims. Only the rear bolt needs to pull up the 3/8 of an inch and I'm thinking seriously about doing this.

    The change out will save 61 pounds with coil over shocks.

    TED
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Cad-T-Bird 500; 03-05-2010 at 06:19 PM.

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