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Topic: C4/AOD Question (Read 1769 times) previous topic - next topic

C4/AOD Question

Reply #15
I’m slowly collecting parts for a T5 swap. I may check the V6 T5s out now. The V8 versions here run between $500-$750 and they’ve been beat on like a piñata at Chuc E Cheese birthday party! Lol.
87 Tbird LX w/Factory floor shifter:D  3G upgrade. Tinted Windows...85 Mustang GT steering wheel(non-cruise) 17'' Saleen SC style wheels,Front/Rear TC sway bars/poly bushings & Mustang GT steering rack...'05 Mustang V6 springs...93 Cobra MC & booster, MM adjustable C/C plates,  Work  In  Progress.......  ( On The Shelf---HO computer, 19lb injectors, HO cam, BBK headers, Explorer Intake, Cold Air Intake ,Phantom Gauges, Stinger stainless exhaust pipes )

C4/AOD Question

Reply #16
Quote from: ISTLCRUZ;466846
I’m slowly collecting parts for a T5 swap. I may check the V6 T5s out now. The V8 versions here run between $500-$750 and they’ve been beat on like a piñata at Chuc E Cheese birthday party! Lol.

Exactly. I bought a thrashed t-5 for $400 from a guy parting out a fox stang. Took it in to get it rebuilt after I took the cover off and saw all the broken teeth on the gears and felt how loose the bearings were and notchy it turned over. Wanted $800 to rebuild it. I ended up selling it for $500 to a guy swapping a 302 in a bnw. He said he was looking for a good gt core to get rebuilt for months and mine was the first under $800.

Meanwhile, I can get a sn-95 v-6 t-5 already pulled for $125 with bell housing.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

C4/AOD Question

Reply #17
So would my ideal case be that I find a complete 94/95 3.8 T5 parts Mustang, and could take the majority of the parts I need from that one car?  That would give me the trans, clutch, flywheel, starter, cable, pedal assembly, fork, crossmember, shifter, etc?  On those year models, is the speedometer still a gear-driven cable?

This will sound odd, but I do think I want to go T5.  Here's why.  Back in 2010, I totaled my baby, a '98 F150 that I'd had for 10+ years.  It was a 5-speed 4.6 Lariat 2WD.  I sold a few parts off of the wreck before I junked it (hit a KW almost head on, but drivetrain was unharmed), but for some reason kept the 5sp shifter knob, thinking I'd find a use for it someday.  I think this is what I kept it for.  Good enough justification??

Thanks again.

C4/AOD Question

Reply #18
Yes, a 94-98 3.8 would probably be the best option. The one thing you will need would be a fox pedal cluster and an aod driveshaft from a tbird/cougar. The cougarbirds use a mechanically driven but digital Speedo. Not sure if the c5 one would work, but it should with the geat swap, assuming it meshes okay.

Find a cheap 3.8 stang with a blown head gasket.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

C4/AOD Question

Reply #19
You recommended an AOD driveshaft.  Would an '86 XR7 5sp driveshaft be the same?  May have a line on one.  Thanks.

C4/AOD Question

Reply #20
Not 100% sure. When I did mine, I jist reused the aid driveshaft everyone said would be too long. It sat 1/4" further out.

I havent had a xr7, but it does use a t-5. The only difference I could see when I was junkyarding, the aod has a weight pressed on next to the yoke. Mine was broken and about to fall off, so I just hammered it off.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

C4/AOD Question

Reply #21
Haystack,
If I bought the T5 (if it's still available) from this same XR7 car, is it the same T5 that goes behind the V6?  Same clutch, bellhousing, etc?  Sorry I'm asking so many questions again.  Thanks.

C4/AOD Question

Reply #22
Haystack,
If I bought the T5 (if it's still available) from this same XR7 car, is it the same T5 that goes behind the V6?  Same clutch, bellhousing, etc?  Sorry I'm asking so many questions again.  Thanks.

C4/AOD Question

Reply #23
Haystack,
I checked CoolCats for the T5 specs, and saw how many variations there are of it.  So I see that it's not the same T5 by any means.  I guess a better question would be, could a 2.3-style T5 be adapted for use on a 3.8?  I'm guessing no, but I thought I'd ask.  Thanks again.

C4/AOD Question

Reply #24
Quote from: Haystack;466854
Meanwhile, I can get a sn-95 v-6 t-5 already pulled for $125 with bell housing.
I want these cheap deals!!

They run about $300-500 here!

C4/AOD Question

Reply #25
You could use the t-5, but you would need a 5.0 bell housing. The 2.3 uses a different bolt pattern and crank pilot bearing/bushing.

Clutch flywheel ECT are wrong, but it would have the console and pedals you want. Not sure if the 2.3 is spaced the same as a 3.8, but the driveshaft might work .

However, the 2.3 has pretty cruddy gear ratios for od and 1st gear.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

C4/AOD Question

Reply #26
Quote from: JeremyB;466891
I want these cheap deals!!

They run about $300-500 here!

Really? I can probably pick between 5 every time I go to the u pull it yard.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

C4/AOD Question

Reply #27
It's me again.  Still haven't purchased anything towards my trans issue.  My biggest factor seems to be cost.  I'm going to have to go with the cheapest, least complicated option.  As much as I'd like to row the gears myself, I'm probably going to end up staying auto.  I'm sorry if I've already asked this question previously, but once again a C4 has become available close to me at a decent price.  My understanding is that a C5 is basically a C4 with a lockup TC.  So if I re-use my TC with the lockup feature, then there is no difference between the C4 and the C5.  Am I missing something?  Thanks again.

C4/AOD Question

Reply #28
If you are still looking, I have a good AOD out of an 87 Tbird Sport. The car has 73,000 miles, but the trans was apparently replaced with a Jasper reman at some point because the paperwork is in the glovebox of the car. $300.

Re: C4/AOD Question

Reply #29
Haystack (or anyone else really),
Well, I may finally (which is always tentative) be getting close to this job, and I'm going to try to find the way to go the T5 route.  I have found a CL source who has a trans with bell housing, flywheel, blocking plate, and clutch for $300.  He just says they're from a 3.8 Mustang, but I don't know what exact year model.  That's the best set of parts being sold together I've found on CL.  I actually have friends who live in the exact same town in MO where it's listed, who will also be my assistants in the swap.  Is it a given fact that I will have to replace my starter, or is there a chance mine will work?  Is there a particular flywheel imbalance I have to use, or does that just go along with the tooth count of the flywheel I end up using?  As far as the pedal set, I cannot use the SN95 pedals, right?  He didn't put them in his ad, but I did ask him if he had them.  So what I still need are a clutch cable, pedal set, and what else?  Did you say my C5 driveshaft might work also, or is it too long?

As far as the shifter goes, I don't plan on adding a console, so I'm just going to do the shifter boot thing.  The trans I'm watching has its original shifter, but no boot is shown.  What type and from what can I find what I need?  If you don't have a console, isn't there like a plate that goes around the bottom of the boot that attaches to the floor?

Thanks again to everybody who has commented.  Sorry again for my multitude of questions.  I've never done any transmission work period, much less replaced one with something completely different.