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Topic: Switching to a 351W swap (Read 551 times) previous topic - next topic

Switching to a 351W swap

Well guys and gals, I was set on doing my 351C swap, but decided a 351W (eventually Turbo) would be a better route to go. I just got the motor that came out of 89-90 "Police Interceptor type". The nice thing is I read I should be able to use the oil pan that came with it. It also came with an AOD that I plan on using. I have a 4r70w I got from a 2000 V6 Mustang that I planned on using, but figured I would use the complete package due to cheaper cost. Maybe one day I will put the 4r70w in when I want to buy that $600 controller. The engine came out of a running car, so plan on doing just the basics for now to get it moving (oil pump, timing chain, cam + lifters, GT40 heads). Figured I would use GT40s since I would have the stock E7's rebuilt anyways as well so cost will be the same (thank you Pull-A-Part). I know I have to get the valve springs to match with the 268h cam. So the "Police" car came with a mechanical fuel pump I am pretty sure (havent been able to work on engine yet). What would be recommended since I am going carb? Should I stay with the tank pump and run a Mallory 29387 regulator? Or should I run the mechanical? Are the fuel lines 5/16's?  I cannot say if at some point I may move back to EFI when the turbo happens, but for now I want to keep it simple. I had a bad run in with EFI on a 5.0 swap recently (yes all wiring was good and codes always showed all was well). Also can someone tell me how much hood clearance we have when going to a 351W? Mine is an '88 Turbo Coupe and will be using a Mustang tubular subframe (AJE), Weiand Stealth intake and Street Demon 625. I saw that a company sells a 2" cowl for our cars, but not sure that would be enough or is it really needed? I probably wouldn't use the Mustang Tubular, but since ChuckW started being mean and no longer making his engine mounts I guess I have to (I at least got a set of his rear shock mounts). :)
Thanks!

Switching to a 351W swap

Reply #1
Years ago, my Windsor swap used EFI with the stock TC hood, no clearance issues using Edelbrock RPM, then later using TFS lower with a custom upper.

Still dont understand why people fart around with subframe spacer plates/washers/longer mounting bolts trying to get a tubular K member designed for a fox Mustang to fit a 86-8 Bird or cougar. I had my welder buddy cut the engine mount pads off the TC kmember while the engine was still out, welded in the mustang pads we cut out of a junkyard mustang and boom, done!

Used the 5.0 mustang engine mounts from that point on which are available everywhere and will hold together fine for power and traction levels that 99% of street cars will not exceed or likely even approach. Cost was about $50 all in and did not have to elongate holes, fab spacers, unbolt a single thing or re-square the kmember to the chassis like a kmember swap entails.

Switching to a 351W swap

Reply #2
I used chucks motor mounts. I used an edelbrock preform intake and Holley 750 with a small spacer and closed the hood with a 83 mustang 13" drop air cleaner.
I used the Mallory return style regulator and used areomotive compression by dash 6 air's ti the steel fuel line.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]:ford:87 Turbo Coupe through the floor sub frame connectors, 5.8 swap Ford racing heads Harland sharp 1.6 rockers BBK shorty swap headers 2 1/2 BBk X pipe magnaflow muffler's. Megasquirt 2 with 36lbs injectors on hurricane intake with 4150 throttle body.Tremec TKO 600 Quicktime blowsheild spec stage 3 clutch. 3.73 gears and still not done