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Topic: '70 F100 Short Bed Styleside (Read 5073 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: '70 F100 Short Bed Styleside

Reply #45
So during my research I did find a guy that built a '68 F100 back in 2008 or so and it was over the course of a couple years.  Nice thing was it was a project that one of the magazines was doing so they did it in a bunch of parts over a couple years.  In Part 4 they started the four link and it is the same kit I am using so it has been a pretty good source of info.  Crappy part is they finished the install in Part 5 and I cannot find it online anywhere.  It was just C notching the frame, installing the Z bar (what we call a panhard bar), and installing the coil overs (which includes the bar between the frame rails for the top mounts of the coil overs) but it would have been nice to see it done.  I grabbed a couple of the pics so you can see what I hope to end up with but again the bars on my truck will be inside the frame.

So here is the forward cross member that the front of the four link will attach to and you can see why I needed to remove the factory cross member in this location:



This is the four link mocked up with the rear end in place. Notice the two jacks holding everything up in place as they had not even tack welded things at this point.  It is sans the C notches in the frame, the Z bar, and the coil overs but you get the idea:



This is the anti-roll bar or sway bar that I will be running (between the coil overs and mounted on the same upper mount as the coil overs) but I cannot order it until I have the four link completely installed including the coil overs.  This is so I can order the right length torsion bar as they cut it to length and spline the ends.



Hopefully the engine cross member comes out easy and I have time to work on the IFS and get that assembled.  Putting my mig welder cart together this evening so hopefully the instructions are easy.

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang coupe that beat your mom's LTD

Re: '70 F100 Short Bed Styleside

Reply #46
:like:
'84 and '87 Mustangs
'98 Explorer 5.0
'06 Lexus
'06 Explorer 4.6

Re: '70 F100 Short Bed Styleside

Reply #47
So it was another productive weekend working on the F100.  Granted it was more tear down and more removal of metal and a couple more rivets but it is finally ready for the new suspension.  Spent Friday making a poor attempt at installing the ball joints and bushings on front LCA's so they are now at a machine shop getting done.  Problem with the ball joint installation is that the top and bottom of the LCA are not parallel to each other at this location so no matter what I did I could not get the press to line up parallel to the bore of the LCA where the ball joint goes.  The forward bushing was just a space issue with how the control arm is shaped in that no matter how I configured it our press was just wrong for the job.  Getting them out was easy as demo seems to always be but going back together is a different animal especially with the powder coat on the control arms.  Machine shop owner is a family friend so he said he would treat them like his own...hopefully he likes things to have coating on them.   So that is how I blew my Friday along with chasing some parts and rental tools down.

Anyhow, moving on to more metal removal.  On Saturday I did some preliminary measuring and sure as shit the one brace I left in the rear of the frame is right where I need to box the frame as well as in the way of the forward four link mount.  Look at the first picture in Reply #45 and you can see where it is going to foul the forward mount.  Here are the pictures after the brace was removed and we put some temporary tube and an angle iron "Z" brace on the rear of the frame so it would not roll or move.







Started to prep the front of the truck for the engine cross member removal and removed what is left of the front clip and stored those parts.  After sweeping up and cleaning up again it was time to call it a day and head out to a buddy's house for smoked steaks, sides, coooooold beer(s), and Live PD....yeah we are those guys.  We comment on it like Mystery Science Theater 3000 as we have an ex-police office in the group so it gets pretty funny.

Woke up early on Sunday as it was time to move back up to the front of the frame and get the old engine cross member removed.  This has all the rivets removed but it is also welded to the frame at the top and along the sides.  The driver side also has the fun option of more plating for the steering gear mount so that was also welded across the top and then to the cross member.  I will not take credit for this idea as I saw a guy on YouTube do this so this was my chop saw for the top welds, an old Makita circular saw and a 7" metal cutting blade.



Results in about ten minutes of cutting as expected and beat the crap out of a plasma or sawzall.  First picture is the passenger side and the second is the driver side with the additional steering gear bracket/reinforcement:




83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang coupe that beat your mom's LTD

Re: '70 F100 Short Bed Styleside

Reply #48
Once that was done I started to cut the rest of the way through on the back of the passenger side and as soon as the sawzall blade went through the frame slightly twisted in on the bottom and spread on the top jamming the blade.  This was where I took a break and got some water and took a deep breath.  Looked things over and grabbed a bottle jack and some round pipe.  Applied very little force and the bottom of the frame moved back where it was prior to the cut.  I called a buddy that welds and he came over and welded some angle iron across the bottom of the frame back towards the cab.  Next we grabbed a come along and wrapped it around the frame and subsequently with little pressure sucked the top back to where it needed to be.  Again, he welded some angle iron to the top of the frame at the same location as the angle iron below it.  At this point I wanted "Z" bars welded across both of the frame braces to limit twist and my buddy burned them in (this is when the "Z" brace got added to the brace on the rear of the frame).  With this done my welder had to roll out and do some dad stuff and it was lunch time.  After eating I spent the next two hours removing the cross member and nothing moved.





In this photo you can see the "V" shaped bracket to the back of the left over "channel" piece of the cross member:



Then I had to remove what was left of the cross member inside the channel of the frame as well as the spacer for the steering gear.

Passenger side:


Driver side with the "V" shaped steering gear spacer already removed:


The spacer was easy as it was just crimped onto the frame so I ground the crimps and it fell out.  The remaining part of the cross member was welded to the inside of the frame but only about about 3" with gaps at the top and bottom and then only on one side of each piece.  I was able to cut the channel shaped piece at the bends and divide into three pieces.  This allowed me to take a BFH and bend the side pieces back and forth until the weld broke leaving only minimal material to grind flat.  Once those were out then the top piece was pried down from the back and what was left of the weld from the circular saw pass broke quickly.  From there is was just cleaning up the welds and dressing up the edges of the frame.

Passenger side:


Driver side:


Will start on the suspension installation in a couple weeks as we have stuff going on this weekend and my buddy that will be welding all of this up works this weekend but off next weekend.  Fun part will be temporarily putting the front suspension under the truck (ratchet strapped) and U-bolting an old rear end to the back so we can roll this up on a trailer.  He wants this at his shop (60' x 120') where his much larger mig welder and tig machine are.  I will take a picture of the hillbilly express on the trailer as it should be good for a laugh or two.

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang coupe that beat your mom's LTD

 

Re: '70 F100 Short Bed Styleside

Reply #49
So I gave up on pressing the ball joint and forward bushing into the lower control arms for the Crown Vic IFS.  Popping them out was easy but getting thing lined up to get them pressed in was not something we had to tools for or the patience.  Paid a local machine shop that has hot rods $60 for a couple hours labor and done.






83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang coupe that beat your mom's LTD