Brake Booster Pushrod Adjustment - Master Cylinder Swaps May 09, 2017, 07:01:19 PM We have gone over a variety of brake swaps on this site from the anemic 10" front disc setup to the less anemic 11" front brakes and then adding on the TC rear disc brake setup and finally to adding the pinnacle of all Fox calipers the SVO/Lincoln 73mm front calipers. We pretty much know that going from the 10" to 11" front brakes and if we are running the stock drum brakes in the rear a MC (13/16" bore) swap is not necessary as the piston size on the calipers is the same at 60mm. Now when we up the game to the TC rear brakes (45mm caliper) with the 60 mm front calipers we need to upgrade to a different MC (1" bore). It is really hard to find the MC piston size anywhere due to the Hydro-boost system and the Teves II crap but remember the 1993 Cobra had the same braking system so that is where you find the MC bore diameter for that setup since the Cobra and TC shared the same brakes. Now when we upgrade to the SVO/Lincoln Mark VII 73mm front calipers a yet a different MC (1-1/8" bore) is once again needed.This also applies when you install the SN95 V6/GT brakes on one of our cars. If you are installing the 94/95 GT or 94-98 V6 brakes they came factory with a 1-1/16" bore MC and the 99-2004 V6 cars came factory with a 1" bore MC. Just in case some folks do not know, in 1996 and up all of the GT and Cobra cars went to hydro-boost and in 2005 all Mustangs used this type of brake boost. I can tell you from experience that in all of the SN95 braking applications the all around best MC is one with a 1" bore and to utilize the 1993 Cobra booster as it has a Fox bolt pattern and takes very little modification to fit in our cars.Okay, so with all of that said I see instances where we discuss swapping to another master cylinder due to some kind of brake swap scenario and we discuss soft pedals, hard pedals, lack of brake power, air in the lines, bench bleeding the MC, etc. The one thing I personally have never thought to bring up is the booster rod adjustment. This is pretty critical being that if the gap between it and the MC piston is excessively large you will have lots of pedal travel and not much braking power and if there is no gap or tool little gap the booster rod can pre-load the piston and cause the brakes to drag.I have been taught how to work the math using a straight edge and a caliper (not the brake kind the measuring kind) to correctly adjust the booster push rod. 83TB and I were having this discussion and I was trying to figure out how to explain this without the hands on (that is how I learn the best) so I told him to let me research it and see if I could find it somewhere. I found it on Maximum Motorsports website on everyone of their master cylinder adapter kit installation instructions. You can go here and access them and the instructions on how to do this are in the first and second pages:http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Install.aspxAnd for the lazier bunch of us here it is:Hopefully this will help some folks out as I realized I did do this on my Coupe but did not do this on my Bird when I converted the brakes so I will be checking it this weekend.