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Topic: brakes failed! time for new ones (Read 1412 times) previous topic - next topic

brakes failed! time for new ones

So shortly after my locking pawl broken. My red brake light and emergency brake light came on in the dash. after about 15 minutes of driving, all of a sudden it felt like I was trying to stop a car that had really worn 4 wheel drum brakes. So I found a place to get the locking pawl from but now I just want to do a 5 lug swap with cobra 13" brakes. Just to be sure,
I need spindles from a 94-98 mustang in the front.
cobra rotors, and calipers/ brakcets from 95-2004
94-98 tie rods
matching ball joints
matching year hubs
possibly stainless steal brake lines if needed.
Banjo bolts
For the rear
1995-2004 cobra axles
1995-2004 cobra rotors and calipers/brakets

Am I missing anything?
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

brakes failed! time for new ones

Reply #1
You can use ANY stang axle, 94 to 98. 7.5 OR 8.8 rear, the axles themselves are all the same.

What size wheel are you running...you'll need at least a 17", possibly 18" to clear the big Cobra rotors. Also, hope you have a pile of cash, that stuff ain't cheap, and it doesn't exist in junkyards.

To get to the heart of your problem, it's probably your master or your booster...I'd look into that first, and if you want the Cobra stuff and 5 lug, save money and acquire your parts until you have everything. No use to have a car half done, and undrivable because you can't get or afford a part yet.
Been there, done that, and have a T shirt from it..lol

Unless your car is lowered, you'll want the '94-95 Spindles. Use the '96-'04 parts if you've lowered, and you'll need a bumpstop kit and C/C plates.

Use SN95 balljoints, or shim the Fox balljoints (i'd just replace 'em, you're there anyway).
The hubs are all the same, however. Since you have an '87, you already have the longer control arms, but if you're going to tear the front end apart, now would be a good time to upgrade or replace your c/a bushings. I went with Energy Suspension, at the cost of a little comfort, mine isn't a cadillac though, so it's worth it.
'84, '87 Mustangs
'98 Explorer 5.0
'06 Explorer EB 4.6
'11 Expedition EL

brakes failed! time for new ones

Reply #2
Go here and read:

http://home.comcast.net/~mjbobbitt/mustang/page1.html

If you have the stock K-member you want the 94-95 spindles only as the 96+ will give you some unwanted bump steer issues.  The aftermarket K-members are the ones that use the 96+ spindle design due to the improved geometry.  You can read more on this here:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=tech_front_susp_7993to9604_spindle

17" wheels will clear the brakes just fine but make sure you talk to whomever you are buying them from as there have been some issues with the wheels hitting the front of the caliper due to the layout of the spokes.

So lets go over your list:

Front
Spindles from a 94-95 V6/GT/Cobra Mustang
94-2004 Cobra Front Rotors
94-2004 Cobra, 03-04 Mach I, or 2001 Bullitt Calipers - there are thread differences on the banjo bolts so watch this
Fox ball joints with washers or SN95 ball joints
94-04 hubs with or without exciter ring (ABS)
possibly stainless steal brake lines if needed - just get them
Banjo bolts & crush washers
Tie rods, most people do not have an issue with the stock Fox tie rods being long enough to reach the newer SN95 spindles.  If you do not or are uncomfortable with the thread engagement you can order new SN95 inner and outer tie rods and install those.  The Fox tie rods are SAE and the SN95 are metric so do not mix and match.

Rear
99/04 Cobras are IRS so those will definitely not work & the 99+ GT/V6 cars have longer rear axles than you need or want.  Use the 94-98 V6, GT, or Cobra axles to get the correct length.
94-2004 Cobra rotors
94-98 Cobra axle brackets
94-2004 Cobra caliper & caliper bracket - I will mention that the 94-2004 GT/V6 rear caliper is identical to the Cobra units with the exception of the caliper bracket but you can but the brackets new at AutoZone.  You will need Cobra specific rear brake pads as the GT/V6 pads are much thicker.  The auto parts stores can get this screwed up so pay attention.
Stainless lines are a good idea here as well

This is one of those subjects that has been covered on here before so do a search.  You are also going to need a different master cylinder as well as a 94-98 brake booster which will require slotting the fire wall holes to get it to fit or get the more expensive 1993 Cobra booster and it should drop in.  Again, this horses has been beat to death on this site as well as all of the Mustang sites.  Both my cars are full Cobra brake cars and I have helped several friends do the swap on their cars.  It is a pain in the ass but with all the threads on this it has become more common place and easier to do.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

brakes failed! time for new ones

Reply #3
What happened to the brakes???? You never said what it was. Did a line rust out caliper fail??? If a line rusted out don't use stainless. To hard to work with. Use Copper ferrous. It is rot proof and extremely easy to bent and flair. I do not use stainless any more for years. Just a thought!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

brakes failed! time for new ones

Reply #4
Quote from: TOM Renzo;413292
Use Copper ferrous. It is rot proof and extremely easy to bent and flair.

Are you talking about this stuff?? I'm going to use it on my car. http://www.fuelsender.com I found a local source for it.


86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo
17’ Peterbilt 389 600hp 1850ftlb Trq 18spd

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

“Heavy Metal Mistress”
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brakes failed! time for new ones

Reply #5
No that is fuel line not brake line.


Here it is i buy it by the roll and do my own cutting and flaring. The stuff is GREAT> Been using it for years!!!

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-NiCopp-Nickel-Copper-Brake-Lines/2111534/10002/-1
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

brakes failed! time for new ones

Reply #6
Hadn't heard of NiCopp. Sounds like a good compromise between corrosion and ease of installation!

brakes failed! time for new ones

Reply #7
Jeremy the stuff is great and it does not ROT PERIOD. I use it on the plow rigs. It is also available in 5/16 & 3/8 as well.

Stainless is out i never use it any more PERIOD!!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

brakes failed! time for new ones

Reply #8
Tom, just to let you know, they also sell the brake line as well. 3/16" up to 3/8", 3000 psi, life time warranty not to corrode either. A roll of 3/16" 25' roll only like $30


86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo
17’ Peterbilt 389 600hp 1850ftlb Trq 18spd

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

“Heavy Metal Mistress”
[/COLOR][/SIZE]

brakes failed! time for new ones

Reply #9
I heard, that copper brake lines are banned in many states, because copper is too soft and tube can inflate, or burst under such a pressure, especially on cars with ABS.

brakes failed! time for new ones

Reply #10
Well this stuff is DOT COMPLIANT been out for years and what is the difference if you have ABS????  It is not COPPER it is an ALLOY!!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

brakes failed! time for new ones

Reply #11
ABS systems do not increase pressure during an ABS event rather they decrease the pressure to the tire(s) that is locking up so that you do not get a skid condition which is a loss of traction thus resulting in less braking performance.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp