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Topic: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0 (Read 13633 times) previous topic - next topic

sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0

Reply #15
Oh ya there is a difference in starters too.
87 TC
HO Swap, T5 Swap, Mach Springs, CHE Upper and Lower control arms, Mach Chin spoiler, soon to be Procharged.

:evilgrin: Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD you want to hit it but are scared of the consequences. :evilgrin:


sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0

Reply #17
Change the speedo internal gear if you have to before you throw the trans in the car too
87 TC
HO Swap, T5 Swap, Mach Springs, CHE Upper and Lower control arms, Mach Chin spoiler, soon to be Procharged.

:evilgrin: Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD you want to hit it but are scared of the consequences. :evilgrin:

sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0

Reply #18
Thanks for the linkb I sorta remembered your thread after reading it. I am not sure what I will do with the starter yet, looks like my flywheel from the f-150 will sit about 1/4" back. From what I can tell, this is the differance between starters between auto and manual. Its a half off day at the junkyard, and I think I'm going to look at getting a manual f-150 starter. I may just get lucky and have it fit. I knew about grinding down the starter nose, again thanks!

Everything looks like it fits perfect, fox clut cable fits both trans and pedals, pleanty of bellhousing clearance. I am convinced everything will work except for MAYBE the f-150 throw out bearing and haven found out about the starter yet. I haven't pulled the clutch fork yet to find out.



Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0

Reply #19
I forgot flywheel bolts and threadlock, I am going to wait until tomorrow before I rip it apart. Might do the pedals or something, but I need to keep it driveable as long as possible.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0

Reply #20
Oh, gonna try to find a dustplate too. Any idea's on what else I could use?
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0

Reply #21
I'm gonna start ripping it all out here in a bit. I found some 7/16" grade 5 bolts. Not sure what it recommends, but I'll be waiting for them until tomorrow. We'll see what we find on the flywheel. I would prefer a grade 8 bolt, just to be safe.

Picked up 3 quarts of atf, possible flywheel bolts, and I think I can get away with using the auto dust sheild. If I have to cut some out of it, then no big deal. The stock auto uses a 164 tooth flywheel, so I should get away with it fine. I found a guy that has used a 3.8 bell housing behind a 5.0. He used a 3.8 flywheel reballanced to 50oz and ran the 3.8 mustang 11" clutch. Everything bolted together fine, but he had to use a "shit load" of shims for the starter to get it to disenguage after cranking. I think I kight get lucky because the f-150 flywheel seems to be about 1/4 lower(closer to the block) on the ring gear.

Going to do some research later tonight to figure out if I can use the 99+ electric pick up in the tranny. The 3.8 stangs should have had 2.73 or 3.08 gears, which should work fine. The saftery switch on the pedal was cut, so I am going to see if I can wire it up using the existing aod wires. If I can't, then I'll add a hidden solinoid starter switch.

Should know by about midnight if its all gonna work, depending on how fast/slow I work. I got some time and a nice warm place to work with the 50.000btu torpedo heater, but its un insilated. Should have 5-6 hours of propane, and I'll lay a tarp along the oposide side of the care I'm working on to trap some heat.

Should have some exciting updates by tomorrow.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0

Reply #22
Well, I screwed up it looks like. I pulled a bolt out of the flywheel of my other motor. Its a 7/16-20X1" bolt. Its also a grade 8, or at least has 6 hash marks on it.

I think I am going to mock it up with the 3/4" length, but it kinda killed my modivation for the night, knowing I won't be able to have it done tonight.

Think I'll just drain all the atf, remove the driveshaft, fix my power steering leak, and call it a night. Maybe unbolt the transmission if I get back into a working on the car mood.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0

Reply #23
Work has been super slow...

Have the car ripped apart, trans is out.

The torque converter is still boolted, I'm going to pull the colum and swap pedals, maybe cut the hole for the shifter while I'm in there.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0

Reply #24
Missing the flywheel bolts. My dad was out ad about so I sent him to pick them up. His ex-wife was in a car accident down the street from where he was and he was listed s her emergency contact still. She looks like she'll be okay, but the car is totaled.

Anyone know the size of the drain plug in the t-5? Looks like the guy I bought it off of forgot to put it back in.

The 11" clutch kit, throw out bearing and piolt bearing are all the same as what I took off. Not crazy about the f-150 clutch, but I think pedal feel will be fine. Swapped the throwout bearing, wanna make sure I have the drain plug before installing tranny.

Might start on the pedal and taking out the colum shift while I wait. My front u-joint was about ready to let go. It has nearly an inch of play, and doesn't look like its had bearings in it for a while. The car always had a clunk when letting off of the gas, and I expected this.

Verified that this is a 99+ transmission. The serial number doesn't pull anything up, but it has a speedo gearless speed sensor. Tried to swap them from the auto, but definately not going to work. The plug looks the same, but research shows that the vss and oss were combined on 99+ mustangs, and in a 94-95 gt (which uses the same style pickup and sensor our cars do with a gear) read 4 times actual speed. Might be running my gps as a speedo for a bit, especially where the car has no tach.

Might do the 199 digi dash mod if it does read 4 times over. 20mph would be 80mph by the speedo, so I would all but be at the 85mph digital dash limit. Might be fun to make a youtube or two of that just to screw with people.

The 99+ mustangs also have no neutrual saftey switch, its built into the ignition. I might try to wire the aod one into the pedal that had the conector cut off.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0

Reply #25
Well, clutch/flywheel/pressureplat and piolt bearing is in.

New trans I swapped to the aod crossmember and mount, just hoping to get luck and have it line up. If it doesn't line up, I'm sure I can make it work. Looks like the bellhousing uses all the same sized bolts as the aod, and the speed ensor plugged right in. I talked to my dad about it, he says he can easily get around the speedo being off, but not sure if he can get it exact. He's one of those electronics guru's.

I feel stupid, I didn't get the drain plug cause I was unyre of the size. I pulled the pther one out, and its the same size. After some rough mesurements, I think I am still going to need about 1/4" worth of shims for the starter. Could have probablt gotten away from this by using a aftermarket flywheel/clutch sized for a 3.8 mustang. You can get them for 0oz, and they come with 28 and 50oz weights. This would have been the easy way, but a bit more expensive.

Aod dustplate is in right now, I don'kt see why it won't work, all of the holes line up. I wonder how the 28lb fly wheel will effect performance compared to the stock 21lb? Other then shims for the starter, it looks like it might be plug and play.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0

Reply #26
GOOD LUCK !!! I sure hope this works out for you, and I'm watching to see how it turns out. Keep up the good work.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0

Reply #27
This link explains some starter differances.

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/491474-new-lesson-i-learned-measure-starter-offset-check-binding-starter.html

My research has shown that most 157 tooth manual and 164 tooth auto flywheels have the 3/8" offset, and both the sn-95 mustang with the 3.8 and the truck 302/351 with the larger flywheel may be the 3/4" offset. This lines up with how I figured I needed about a 1/4 spacer for the starter.


Right now, I'm thinking my best bet for the starter would be to hit some ford trucks at the junk yard, just to see whatthe offset is on them.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0

Reply #28
Found a plut that seems to work. It was a 1/2 npt plug. It has a big square on it instead of the recess for a 3/8" square drive. Gonna put it on top after I fill it with fluid.

Might end up with a mini starter for a 94+ 3.8 v-v mustang. Not sure on this yet.

Bought a new u-joint, broke my good c-clamp, so just got back from renting the press. The drivesaft dampener was coming off and kinda wobbly. I hammered it flush, not sure how well its gonna work. If I have any vibrations, I'll just hammer it off.

Old u-joint had almost 1" of play on the yoke side. This should really make the car feel more solid if everything works out.

Pulled the shifter off of the t-5, duct taped a peice of cardboard over the hole. Gonna try mounting the trans to see if it all lines up with the stock aod mount and crossmember. I it doesn't, I'll probably just make an adaptar/spacer for it, can't be that hard to make work.

Plan for today/night, stab the trans, cut hole in floor, see if driveshaft and starter will work, then move to the inside for pedals. Gonna do absolute minimum until I know I can get it all to work.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0

Reply #29
Trans is in, all but one bellhousing bolt in(left it on the bench), hole is cut, and shift is mounted temporarly. Looks like everything is gonna line up perfect. I cut the hole a bit big, I have no shifter boot, or anyway to close offthe bottom of the car.

I am actually feeling really good, and I'm pretty excited. Gonna go in and eat dinner, then maybe focus back on the u-joins.

Still have u-joints/driveshaft, one bellhousing bolt at the bottom, figure out the starter, fill with fluid, clutch pedal and exhaust. and I'm sure more I forgot. But the big peices are all in. The stock aod crossmember and transmount linedup perfect.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com