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Window replacement

Someone shattered my passenger side window in my 85 5.0 and I can't figure out how to get the old window out to get a new one in. HELP

:pbb:

Window replacement

Reply #1
Quote from: btwodu;123248
Someone shattered my passenger side window in my 85 5.0 and I can't figure out how to get the old window out to get a new one in. HELP

:pbb:


Get one at junkyards for a couple of bucks...

To put out the old window just pull out the door inner panel, and check for a nuts retaining Your window, one on near front of the door, and other near rear of the door, In My 1985 Bird I have a holes in the door frame to put a box to unbolt that, remove Your window by the upper side of the door frame, and reverse to install, this is a 15-20 minutes job...

Have a nice Day...
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]1985 Thunderbird 3.8 carbed 57k original, summer car.
1980 Econoline inline 6 300ci 300k, winter/working.
1988 Base Bird finally crushed... RIP.

Dominique,  The Ridiculous, Fordus, crazyous!!!  :birdsmily:

Window replacement

Reply #2
*EDIT* I didn't see in your post whether this was the door glass or the quarter window glass. My post below applies to quarter window glass.

In the 87-88 you'll have to remove the interior panel to get at the nuts that hold the window in. There are about 8 nuts around the circumference of the glass. You'll also need to remove a couple of screws that retain the rubber weatherstrip where the door closes against it. Then you'll have to very carefully pry out on the window glass while cutting the rubber sealer that Ford put between the glass and body (since your window is broken you don't have to be particularly careful, but if you're taking another window out of a car you will be, because of course you don't want to break it). Once the window is out remove ALL old sealant from the body and the new window (should pull right off, but can be tedious), clean it with alcohol or some other high strength cleaner, and apply new sealer before bolting the new window in
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Window replacement

Reply #3
I'm not good in English, but I understaded the DOOR window, not a side quarter window...

Probably My mistake...

Sorry!,
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]1985 Thunderbird 3.8 carbed 57k original, summer car.
1980 Econoline inline 6 300ci 300k, winter/working.
1988 Base Bird finally crushed... RIP.

Dominique,  The Ridiculous, Fordus, crazyous!!!  :birdsmily:

Window replacement

Reply #4
Thanks a bunch. It is the door window and not the side. I'll tackle this one the minute I find a window.

Window replacement

Reply #5
You'll also need to remove the inner window trim (long black trim that runs the length of the window on the upper door).It has two screws holding it in.If you can pull the replacement widow yourself,that would be a good time for you to see what you're doing,and get a little practice before tackling the job.It's easy,and like stated above,shouldn't take more than 15 or 20 minutes.Be careful pulling the door panel off.If you haven't done it before,there are a few screws,and a few push pin retainers for the bottom and side of the inner door panel.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Window replacement

Reply #6
there aint no nuts holding the window in
there is no need to remove any trim to replace the window

find all the fasteners holding the door panel on and remove them
pry out the section of glass in the two window cradles.

activate window motor to move the two white holders up in lower half of the door so you can reach everything

grease up the track and the two wheels
add thin beed of lubricant to the tracks all the way up the sides of the door

clean out the two holders then lay a beed of good rubber cement or the best money can buy silicone.

slip window back in , align it and drop into holders

roll window up and leave it there for however long it takes the silicone to dry.

shop vac out the glass i suppose, or by hand.

Window replacement

Reply #7
If the replacement window already has the clips on it,then there are two nuts that hold the glass in,and if the clips are on the glass,the inner dew wipe will have to be removed in order to make room for the clips on the window to slide down into the door.Also,if the window was busted in the car,the clips will probably have to be removed in order to clean out the old adhesive and glass that is most likely still in it.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Window replacement

Reply #8
It's an '85 (read his user title)...it DOES have nuts holding the glass in. Earlier glass has two bolts through the bottom, and they bolt to the regulator. The 1987-88 door glass was attached with adhesive, yes. But there was NO ADHESIVE on the 1983-86 glass. Therefore it is much easier to replace and more securely attached than 1987-88 glass.

Window replacement

Reply #9
I decided to photograph both glass types so, once and for all, there is no more confusion.

VIEW #1
1987-88 glass at the top, 1983-86 glass at the bottom.
Note the clips on the 1987-88 glass, the earmarked corner in the 1983-86 glass, and also the bump-out in the 1983-86 glass where the bolts go through the two plastic guards.


VIEW #2
Once again, 1987-88 on top, 1983-86 on bottom.


VIEW #3
A close-up of the 1983-86 glass. Again, there is a beveled corner and two offset holes in the plastic guards through which the bolts go.


The 1987-88 glass goes about 2" down deeper into the door, and also has a much more rounded corner at the B-pillar. And obviously has clips. The 1983-86 glass doesn't.

E Dogg FTW!!!eleven!!1! :headbang:

Window replacement

Reply #10
i can tell you right now from experience in both driver and passenger windows on an 87-88, the way they have the windows in there is retarded.  i tried every glue in the world to hold my window on track.  i even have a one sided clip.  but i finally figured out exactly how to fix the problem perminantly (this is for an archive if someone is dealing with this poblem on an 87-88) glue the clips back onto the window after scuffing the surface of the clip and window with WINDSHIELD ADHIESIVE.  its cheap too, and you can pick it off the shelf at any part store, they deffinatly have it in stock if you cant find it on the shelf.  btw, b/c of how well the glue is as an adhiesive, you can only use a tube once.  after you use it once the entire thing of glue dries hard as a rock.  no other type of glue will work, i know, i've tried them all.

Window replacement

Reply #11
Quote
i can tell you right now from experience in both driver and passenger windows on an 87-88, the way they have the windows in there is retarded. i tried every glue in the world to hold my window on track. i even have a one sided clip. but i finally figured out exactly how to fix the problem perminantly (this is for an archive if someone is dealing with this poblem on an 87-88) glue the clips back onto the window after scuffing the surface of the clip and window with WINDSHIELD ADHIESIVE. its cheap too, and you can pick it off the shelf at any part store, they deffinatly have it in stock if you cant find it on the shelf. btw, b/c of how well the glue is as an adhiesive, you can only use a tube once. after you use it once the entire thing of glue dries hard as a rock. no other type of glue will work, i know, i've tried them all.

I have used 5 minute epoxy with much luck. every tbird i had ended up needing the clips re-attached at one point or another. instead of using 50/50 resin/hardener i used more like 70/30 resin/hardener. kind of keeps it flexible. you have to apply it when its right in the middle of cureing and you have to be quick. the clip and the glass have to be cleaned very well. i drill a couple small holes or one bigger one through the clip to let air bubbles out as well as give the epoxy a place to go and a channel to hold well. anywho...i never had a problem with any of them afterwards.
 
the window adhesive im sure is the "right" way to do it but this way does work well.
:america: 1988 Thunderbird Sport, Former 4.6 DOHC T56 conversion project.

Rest of the country, Welcome to Massachusettes. Enjoy your stay.

 
Halfbreed... Mango Orange Y2K Mustang GT
FRPP complete 2000 Cobra engine swap, T56 n' junk...
~John~

Window replacement

Reply #12
Alot of the early ones (at least all mine have been) are riveted instead of bolted.  I do replace the rivets with 8mm/5/16" bolts though.

Perhaps it's an 83-84 and 85-86 thing on the bolts vs rivets.  Like I said, all mine have been riveted ....but they have all been 83-84 that I have removed/replaced door glass on.  I never had to on either of my 85's.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo

Window replacement

Reply #13
I've had both, Chuck...but it could have been that someone replaced the window before I bought the car ('86 GS, '86 LS) and drilled out the rivets. Either way it's still a more stable system and relatively easier to remove and replace.

Window replacement

Reply #14
Quote from: shame302;124798
I have used 5 minute epoxy with much luck. every tbird i had ended up needing the clips re-attached at one point or another. instead of using 50/50 resin/hardener i used more like 70/30 resin/hardener. kind of keeps it flexible. you have to apply it when its right in the middle of cureing and you have to be quick. the clip and the glass have to be cleaned very well. i drill a couple small holes or one bigger one through the clip to let air bubbles out as well as give the epoxy a place to go and a channel to hold well. anywho...i never had a problem with any of them afterwards.
 
the window adhesive im sure is the "right" way to do it but this way does work well.


oh yeh, i forgot about the tip of drilling holes in the clips to give it a "handle" so to speak, did that with mine too.