Perhaps someone on here or NATO (I will if I can find one in reasonable condition - there aren't many in yards here now days) can pull a decent rear molding from a 1988 model and send it in for analysis? I'd be willing to pay the shipping cost to Steele, for a good part that isn't completely hardened or broken.
Last post by Masejoer -
I'd like to start jumping on every car I see appear at the local salvage yards. I want to start pulling th exterior trim pieces when I can, but don't want to damage parts if I can come better prepared.
Front: If I remember correctly from many years ago, the side trim around the windshield unscrews. I believe there are two screws - one visible near the base that screws into the bottom of the A-pillar, and one on the side near the top of the A-pillar. Correct me if I'm wrong in my memory. I'll look at my car later.
The top horizontal piece has no screws - it clips into place. Releasing the clips and getting the metal piece removed can be difficult without putting a bend into the aluminum. Does anyone have any tips on the easiest intact removal of this top piece? While I straightened mine out when removed some decade ago, it still has a little bit of a bend from my removal attempt.
Rear (metal trim models 1987/early 1988): How does the rear trim on these cars get released? Do I just use a plastic pry tool around the outside (preferably from the glass side as to not scratch paint)?
Rear (rubber single piece models late 1988): Same as above - how does the rubber single-piece molding get removed? Are there clips biting into the rubber, preventing them from being removed? Should they pull out without being torn, or should I expect a rip? On cars with pliable rubber, do I need to pry up on the outside to see something to push on to release the clips, or just pry up and hope the rubber doesn't split?
Last post by Mikey97D -
Recently on long hills in 3rd near WOT and about 10psi of boost the car starts "missing". Does not do it in the other lower gears and have not noticed it in 4th or 5th.
The plugs have about 3000 miles on them. I have another set to put in when I go to check. I was originally thinking maybe the gap was too big and lower it. Second guessing myself now that maybe I am running out of fuel? I am on the original size pump.
Last post by mcb82gt -
Yes, I have the full digital cluster and the speedo works. Cruise just quit out of the blue, was working fine prior and I didn't work on anything or move anything to disturb anything.
Last post by softtouch -
Does the speedometer work? If you have an electronic speedometer, it provides the speed info to the cruise control amplifier. You have to be above 25mph (I think) for the cruise to work.
Last post by Thunder Chicken -
The seat thing is the infamous "Fox Lean". Your seat back frame is broken. The hood latch thing could be a seized latch (try slobbering it with penetrating fluid and manually working it to free it up), or a bad cable (make sure the release handle returns to the rest position by itself without pushing on it).
Last post by BradMph -
Bought a 1988 TBird in incredible condition, but there are some needed repairs. One is the drivers side seat. The back of the seat is way too far backwards and doesn't seem to be catching the tooth on the seat in the more upward positions. Any ideas. Also, the hood latch will not lock down hood when closed. I did check the latch and tried to push latch lock down but it isn't releasing the hold down mechanism inside the latch. I'm wondering if it is just a spring problem that may of broke. It will have to come off, no doubt, but wondering if anyone else has come across this problem.