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Messages - james cassity
back then i had assumed the resistances were equal. with that in mind, you can prob understand why ii flipped the M1 and M2 positions at the switch. I did not even know to think about this as a question so again, i assumed they were the same ohms.
so,,, i was asking kind of a two fold question,, first if anyone else did this yet along with lessons learned ,, and to have someone else verify the diagram before i fiddle with wires to do this myself.
again, you tend to bring some good details to most any topic.
Duplicolor “trim and bumper paint”
Seems really good to me, I have all over the dash and this glove box.
I went to put this back on and noticed an area I was not happy with so 400 grit away I went.
It was really difficult to get the paint to sand down. I am not saying this stuff wont scratch but… its really strong
I hand converted an 87 cfi wiring *all things considerd* to an 87 SEFI harness.
i then upgraded to MAF and i have installed an A9L on an AOD computer.
I am stroked and poked and injectored too large for the stock A9L to compensate for play nice with so i am running tweecer which needs its first tune.
I do want to contribute though because i think this whole pin 30 thing is important.
there's a place to make sure i tell everyone im transgendered for not,,,,
but there is not a question to answer about "what car do i have?:"
seems reasonable that a site about cars should show that info or a misc box to list this.. instead of putting it in the sig.
the sig area limits you to 300 characters.
right now i cant change my "GENDER" till i reduce my character count in my sig,, which means on the page in my profile to edit my GENDER,, it wont make the changes till i reduce my signature count.
this also includes our 5 position rotary switch which is supposed to "on the fly" let my son pick which tune he wants to use.
there will be 4 tunes,, and position 5 is a sort of emergency limp home using the EEC just in case the tweecer has a failure.
root cause for heat .......
either... wiring is too small yet the wires themselves are not telling me they are over heating...
what i highly suspect is the root cause is the amount of pressure the two springs offer to push the tiny metal sled along the contacts. so.. i am going to "stretch out" the springs a tad to assure more pressure.
that is it for now on my son's manual heat control ,,, slave relays can come later.
i have an ongoing resto project in engine swapping.. 5 years of the pictures are not showing up.
,,i am going to look back over post 1 again to double check but do i assume all of these pics are now gone?
update,,, so i assume you all are still working on older images to translate over to this platform??
i got this big ole list of stuff in my sig called a DIY stuff,, it produces error 404, do i edit the url? with what?
Are we not accepting constructive criticism of a forum some of us financially contributed too?
actually i laughed at that,, i think eric was just playing around,, least thats the way i took it.
i dont see it yet, sorry but.........
when attaching images,, i typically upload from my phone or pc.
that all works fine ,, i figured it out but......... the images are thumbnails... that you have to click on to make bigger.
is this the normal way now?
over in electrical tech i just posted a thread to illustrate a before and after manual heater mod we all worked on back in 12'.
it is much easier to scroll down the page with fully expanded photo's
btw,, i didnt have th change my password. first time on the new board. i guess we are up to the 4th one now?
this was researched and solved because one of our members here listed on the drawing noticed the blower speed switch was discoloring and looking to be in bad shape.
we designed this mod around the 97 explorer manual heater system which has slave relays for both the speed switch and the blower motor.
I am attaching the before and after shots to help illustrate things.
thats the part you cut out and convert it into a water tight hinged door.
this way in the future you simply open it up from inside the trunk to go in after your fuel pump next time it goes bad. no more droping the tank
page 42- 3.8L start / IGN = near C403 there is a circuit ID #16 which is red/lt green. what purpose does this wire serve?
page 43- 5.0L start / IGN = circuit ID #16 red/light green, what purpose does fuse link "P" serve?
in both instances what i am trying to understand is.... you have a jumper "wire" bypassing another "wire".??????
the end of the cable in the fender well at the cruise vacuum module has a tiny clip that holds the cable in place.
up at the throttle body, pull on the end of the cable...
if you ca pull it out and push it back in with easy, that tiny clip broke.
i am not really sure where to obtain a replacement clip but this cruise system did exist across many years of different application of cars.