The reason given to me was the signal from the O2's was garbage and he sees this a lot on the older systems like the EEC-IV's which only have one O2 per side not four like the newer Mustangs. I have had four different tuners tune this car over the years and I can tell you that this is absolutely the best tune it has ever had. Idle is fantastic (no surging what so ever), part throttle is smooth as silk, and the power it makes is very linear. The area under the torque curve is huge. It comes up on torque quick and builds power all the way up to 6,500.
I am not a tuner but I do have a basic understanding of how the EEC-IV functions. I am not going to internet second guess a guy that came as highly recommended as Archie has and I talked to some of the guys that own the cars he has tuned with nothing but high regards for his ability. If you are curious as to his reasoning give him a call at True Street Motorsports at (972) 542-9886.
So comparing the 331 to the 351 is like a flash bang to a grenade if that makes sense. The 351 makes about 450 at the rear wheels without the nitrous and the Bird weighs a few hundred pounds more.
So the build on the 351 is like this from the top down: Carburetor - Holley 750 double pumper modded by the Carb Shop in California to an 830 with their road race package Intake - Edelbrock Victor Jr that is gasket matched to the heads and just cleaned up of casting flash down the runners Heads - AFR 185's with mild port work, Manley SS valves, Isky 8005 springs, titanium retainers and keepers, ARP rocker studs, Comp Cams Pro Magnum roller rockers & stud girdles, and ARP studs to fasten them to the block Block - Stock '94 Ford roller block that has been magnafluxed for cracks, bored .030" with torque plates, line honed, Probe Street Fighter main girdle, and some work done on the oil passages Rotating Assembly - Ford SVO billet 351 crank (no stroke), Probe I-beam rods, Probe SRS pistons, Probe ring package, King bearings, Ford SV billet flywheel, Ford SVO balancer, and RAM clutch assembly all with ARP fasteners Cam - Comp Cams 35-450-8 (cam specs here http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1047&sb=2) with a billet adjustable timing gear set
If you want to dive further into the car then I did have a couple threads on the motor, fuel system and exhaust:
Anyhow, they are two different cars and two very different motors. I will say one thing though, if you put 302 parts on a 351 you will make 302 power. What ever you build just understand that you need to set a goal and know what you are building the motor for like street, drag, road racing, etc. The cam is the brains of the whole operation so know what kind of power you want to build and what rpm range and if you are going to be injected or carb'd from there you can start mapping the rest of the motor out.
So I built a 331 for my Coupe a few years back with the help of an engine builder over the phone back home being that I lived in Houston at the time. I thought all went well and for the most part it did even though up to a few days ago I didn't think this way. Turns out there were a couple of errors on my part but mostly small crap that could have been fixed with a small tear down with the engine in the car. The one thing I could not fix was the rocker arm geometry issue on the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads. The heli-coiled holes for the rocker studs had to be welded up and relocated due to known issues with this on the Performer and Performer RPM heads that Edelbrock will not correct. They are okay with a stock or very mild lift cam but not a performance cam. My engine builder has come across this a few times so he had the heads welded up and then put them on a mill to correct the issue. Then all new bearings were installed, new piston rings (might as well being we had it apart), degreed the cam according to Ed Curtis' instructions and not straight up like this dummy did, and fixed some other minor things that 30+ years of engine building gets you.
I put the motor back in the car a few weeks back along with a new RAM clutch so I have been keeping the rpm's below 4,000 while getting a couple hundred miles on the new clutch before it went to the dyno. I also picked up a new set of 275/40/17 Nitto 555R's for the rear as the other tires (Kumho) were garbage from day one. Not really knowing how bad the tune was out I was still unimpressed with the 331 and wondering if I should have gone for the 347. I just got a smoking deal on the 331 kit ($450 SCAT kit never installed) so that is why I went with a 331. Supposed to be a better rod angle as well but most newer 347 kits have corrected that by moving the wrist pin in the piston.
Anyhow, I left after work this past Thursday afternoon and drove down to my home town to get my buddy's car trailer (3 hours) and then over to my dad's shop to load my car (2 hours) and then cooled off, grabbed a bite to eat, a couple of bottles of water and then drove to my hotel in McKinney, TX and arrived there at 12:15am on Friday. Got up at 7:30 and was down at True Streets Performance shop with the car unloaded and parked in front of the dyno bay at 8:55am for a 9:00am appointment. Met the tuner (Archie) and got on the dyno at 10:30am. He had a Mopar up on the dyno and needed to finish it up before he started on mine which was okay with me as I was busy looking at all the other cars they had there. Had to be at least 30 cars with Fords being the majority but they did have a Grand National that was putting down around 650 rwhp, couple of Mopars, and a couple Bowties all making more power than me but I think they all had some kind of forced induction. Archie spent until 2:00p tuning on the Coupe and I got back to my dad's shop in Oklahoma around 5:30pm...a very long 24 hours.
Archie was awesome to watch work and just a super nice guy. So I was outside when he made the first pull on the existing tune and I heard the sound of a motor lean in the upper rpm's. My guess was around 4,000 rpm and he confirmed it was 4,500 and just got worse as it went up to 6,000. By the sixth pull it sounded really good and he came inside the show room. He asked if I had an MSD in the car, where the hell it was mounted (he looked in all the usual spots and could not find it), and if I did have one what chip I had in it. I told him it was tucked away behind the front bumper on the driver side and I thought it had a 6,200 rpm chip in it. He came back inside with a smile on his face and tossed me a 6,000 rpm chip (woops) and said he was going to let the EEC do the rev limiting as the MSD's limiter was not as accurate and then he went back to tuning. He made two more pulls and came back inside and said he deleted the O2's from the EEC so I can now unplug them and plug the holes in the X-pipe. Said the signal on them is usually crap and he can tune without them and the signal on mine was crap. He wanted to let the motor cool off and make a couple more pulls to mess with the idle and tune on the low rpm range. So with all of that the new shift point is 6,500 rpm and it ended up with 364 rwhp and 386 ft-lbs of torque out of the 331. One other thing, I have 42 lb/hr injectors and I am 60 to 70 hp from running out of injector at 52 psi of pressure. Those that think 30's or 36's will be okay on a naturally aspirated 331 or 347 need to rethink this. Just passing on what works in my car so take it with a grain of salt.
So I worked on my F100 on Saturday and then went to the races that night so I did not driver the Coupe that day. Woke up on Sunday morning and it was 72 degrees so I took the car for a spin around town and then out of town on a long stretch of no car in sight four lane...I can tell you triple digits are almost had at the top of third but it smashes them in fourth.
Got a little time Saturday to tack weld the boxing plates into the frame rails. Should have them all welded out in the next couple of weeks as my buddy and I both want it done before the 4th of July.
We also talked ourselves into gusseting the four link front cross member on the bottom for two reasons, one we thought it needed it and two we had the plate so why not melt some metal. Will clean up the welds but this was about 10 minutes after they were welded up.
So from here about the last thing to weld up are the front lower control arm rear bushing mounts. Will need to do some research on that so that I can get the caster at about 5-6 degrees positive before we weld them up. This will allow for a couple of degrees of +/- adjustment down the road. I couple guys have done this and have some good write-ups on how to do it so I just need to reread those and fully understand what I am doing as this is critical like getting the four link setup right.
Got some more time last weekend to work on the truck. I got the bottom lip of the frame cut out in front and behind both "C" notches and made some templates to transfer the shapes onto the sheet of 10 gauge SA-36 steel. Got those cut out with the plasma torch, shaped them, and then burned them in.
Got the bottom side welded up and then ground all of that flat and brightened it up. Still a couple small spots to weld up so it is filled in but we will get those when we are done welding up the boxing plates.
From here I stared making the templates for the boxing plates on the rear of the truck and for the front as well. I was going to try and do the rear plate in one piece but getting it around the front support for the four link, the "C" notch, and the rear coil over upper support bar was going to be a pain so I opted to two piece it.
Here is the template for the back section of the rear boxing plate
Then the rear boxing plate fitted with the front template being fitted
Front and rear boxing plates fitted and ready to tack into place
Moved to the front of the truck and made the templates to box the frame where the Crown Vic IFS is installed. Welded up the spacer tubes and then cut the boxing plate out and fitted both sides. I think we are going to heat the frame in a couple spots as the lips on the frame are just not 100% straight and it will make the welding a lot better.
Should get back on welding out the boxing plates this weekend if all goes well.
Now reinsert the wire rope with the washers and green plastic fitting on it into the passenger compartment side of the firewall fitting and through the sheath. Install the assembly onto the firewall and again route it to the throttle body bracket. Pass the wire rope through the ferrule type tube and slide the ferrule type tube onto the end of the sheath. Now slide all of this into and through the fitting bolted to the throttle body bracket. You should have way more wire rope than you need at this point.
Here is the thing that I highly suggest you do and that is to make a 1/4" spacer that will go between the gas pedal bracket that bolts to the firewall and the firewall. I made mine out of 5 -1/2" long 1-1/2" wide piece of aluminum strap. Had to radius the lower right hand corner and over drill the holes to 5/16". This gets the damn pedal off the carpet and allows the WOT stop built into the stock gas pedal assembly to actually hit before contacting the carpet. This will allow easier adjustment of this cable assembly.
Install the gas pedal and attach the throttle cable to the pedal. You can slide the wire rope out of the sheath a ways and once the pedal is installed pull it back through. We will adjust the cable on WOT only as the return spring will set the idle position.
Remove the threaded ball from the end of the Lokar piece that will snap onto the ball of the throttle body lever. The only picture I have of this piece is when I was making sure it would snap into the throttle cable clip which is the piece of plastic that connects the throttle cable to the cruise control cable. So yes you can keep your cruise control doing this my way.
Note: this piece has some tension adjustment via the threads so put them in the middle.
Snap just the Lokar piece onto the throttle body lever. I took a small zip tie and loosely zip tied the wire rope to this piece so I could measure how long the wire rope needed to be. Do realize that over an inch of this cable will slip up into this piece and my advise would be to cut it longer than you think you need. Cut the wire rope to length and insert the end of it into the piece that attaches to the throttle body. The fun part is holding the throttle body at WOT so you can screw down the set screw at this point. I ended up taking the inlet tube off the throttle body and having someone hold the blade as that made more room down where you need to tighten up the small F'n set screw.
Okay, so now we have WOT throttle pretty much set. Now you will need to install the return spring. I used the smaller diameter inner spring from the Spectre Performance 4700 throttle return spring set and it worked perfect. You will attach this through the throttle cable screw hole on the throttle body bracket and then into the auto trans kick down hole on the throttle body lever. IF you have an auto trans you will need to remove your throttle body and drill a small hole somewhere on this lever on the kick down cable side so this will work correctly. When done it will look like this:
Okay, now we have a completely functioning throttle cable but you need to make sure that when the gas pedal is WOT the throttle body is WOT. I did a reset on the throttle position sensor and glad I did. At idle (car not running but key in the run position) I was getting 1.064 volts on the DVM. I adjusted the TPS and got it down to 0.964 volts...good enough. When the gas pedal was pushed to WOT I got 4.41 volts and I pushed on the throttle body blade and it went to 4.6 volts. I removed the part that snaps onto the ball on the throttle body lever and used the threads on it to fine tune WOT.
Last thing is here is the cruise control cable connected to my new throttle cable and yes it works just fine.
So here is how you make a proper cable. I did this yesterday on my Coupe and can say that it is 100% better and I should have done this about three years ago. Remove the stock throttle cable and it should look something like this:
From here you need to cut the wire rope out of the sheath and save the little green plug on the wire rope that pops into the gas pedal as we will use that here in a bit. Discard the rest of the wire rope. On the sheath cut off and save the end that attaches to the firewall and toss the rest. You will need to remove the rest of the cable down in the fitting. I used a 3/16 drill bit and a little at a time removed the bits and pieces. Double check the 3/16" as you do not want to drill out the hole any larger than what it is on the passenger compartment side of this fitting. I tried to remove it with a punch but that was futile as it just waded up in the fitting and wasted time. Once you have it removed then you will want to step up in drill bit sizes to 1/4" (OD of the new throttle cable sheath) and drill the engine bay side out about 3/4" deep. This will allow you to slip the new throttle cable sheath down into this fitting.
So now you have the green plastic plug and the firewall fitting. Take the 36” long Lokar cable (P/N TC-1000U36) and removed the wire rope from the sheath. One fitting will slide off the sheath so take that off and set it and the ferrule type tube to the side. The other fitting is attached to the sheath with some kind of crimp so I cut that fitting of flush with the sheath. I cleaned that end up (don't do this as you will end up shortening the sheath some more.
Now take the end that slipped on the sheath and install it into the throttle cable bracket that attaches to the throttle body like this:
Install the firewall fitting back on the firewall and then insert the factory end of the Lokcar sheath into that fitting (you should have checked the fit prior to this...) and it should look like this:
Route the sheath like you would your throttle cable and then hold it up to the fitting you installed on the throttle cable bracket on the throttle body. This is where you are going to cut the sheath to length. I ended up cutting 5" off mine but this is a custom fit thing so you may want to verify what works on a Fox Mustang work on our cars. Remove the sheath and cut it to length. I used a dremel with a cut off wheel and that worked very well. I removed the firewall fitting and then put that on the sheath.
Next you will need to slide the green plastic fitting onto the Lokar wire rope. One end has a round end and mine was painted red. I installed the green plastic fitting and did not like the looks of things in that I thought a couple of quick throttle mashes and the red end might pull through the green plastic fitting. I rummaged through the shop and found some really small washers so I installed two of those on the wire rope and then put the green plastic fitting back on and was satisfied. I forgot to take a picture of this out of the car so I dropped the gas pedal and snapped one.
Here is the washer that I put on the cable. I put it on a tape measure so you can get an idea of how small it is.
Possibly a stiffer return spring due to the kick down cable? Never had to mess with an auto car but I do know that every auto to manual conversion I’ve helped with we have not changed the throttle cable. Never went the other way (manual to auto) so no experience there.
So I took the plunge and ordered the 36” long Lokar cable (P/N TC-1000U36) and Spectre Performance 4700 return spring set off Amazon. So what you end up doing is removing the clevis off the accelerator pedal end of the Lokar cable. You do this by sliding the cable out of the housing and then sliding the clevis off the cable. From here you install the end off the factorycable but you have to cut the factory cable to get it off. Slide the end on the Lokar cable and reassemble. You will need to trim the Lokar cable to fit as I believe the factory one is around 32” long.
Some guys use the piece on the factory cable the bolts to the firewall and slide the Lokar cable into it. To do this it is my understanding the you cannot use the SS braided version of the Lokar cable.
The end on the Lokar cable that receives a ball will snap directly onto the TB. What I want to figure out is how to attach the cruise control cable as well. That doesn’t work now so it’s a “later” kind of project.
You will need to attach a return spring to the opposite side of the TB lever (kick down cable side) and then back to the throttle cable bracket as the Lokar cable does not have a built in one like the factory cable.
This will be a couple weeks down the road but just wanted to post up the alternative as I did some lurking on several Mustang sites to get the info. All the searches were turning up carb cable related threads as few have replaced their EFI cable but it’s starting to become an issue.
I bought one of these for my 93 Coupe with a T-5. LMS was selling them so I figured they vetted it already...nope. Has some kind of internal throttle stop that kept from opening the TB 100%, more like 60%. I looked at trying to modify it but just called LMS and they said it was becoming a huge issue and to send it back and they would refund me the part and shipping. They have another one and by the picture it looks to be a different brand but it is currently out of stock. I messaged them and they are saying it should be back in stock by the end of June.
I am currently looking at using the Lokar TC-1000HT or TC-1000U on mine and just be done with it. It takes a little work but most say the difference is night and day.
So this morning (took the day off) I went back out and we installed the bar between the frame rails for the upper coil over mount and the Z-bar. I didn't take a lot of pictures of the fitment as there was weather moving in and I wanted to be back home before all that craps hits here in a couple more hours. The bar had to be cut to length and then two 3" heavy wall pipe spacers installed such that only 1" stuck out from the bar. We used the drill press and a hole saw to make that happen and my buddy tigged up the side that stuck out and then mig welded the back side and ground that side flat. The top of the coil overs are 1" inboard relative to the lower mount so we had to account for that as well which is where the plumb bob came in handy...again.
Upper coil over mount getting welded in
And the four link is in all be it with the dummy bars in place of the coil overs. We did this so things would not move around while it got welded up and who wants to weld around that stuff anyhow. I worked myself up over this damn install and after it was all said and done my buddy and I looked it over and then he said "We could do this in one day now". I would say two but all he did was weld and make four cuts with the plasma and I did all the measuring, calcs, metal prep, and yeah holy shit this was pretty easy.
The welds on the forward brackets need to be done as well as a couple welds on the coil over bar but that is it. The brackets on the rear end are tack welded but it will come back out and go into a jig and get about 4" cut off one side and 6" off the other and the new ends put on with some pretty tig welds. Here are a few shots of all of it in place, I'm liking it...
Taking a couple more days off in a few weeks and hopefully we can get the front suspension all welded up (spacer tubes, boxing, and the rear LCA mounts) and box the rear frame. Lots of trimming, templates, and welding but it should look pretty sweet when done. From there it will be put the bed on the truck and 100% figure out how much to narrow the rear end. Once that is narrowed then we will have the Moser axles shortened and resplined...could kick myself in the ass for order them as quick as I did as that is costing me $125 to shorten brand new axles and respline them. Live and learn.
From here we moved to the 3" c-notches as the ride height will have the top of the axle tubes 1" from the bottom of the frame and the travel on the suspension is +/- 3". With the notches I have 4" above the axle tube and the top of the rear end will miss the bottom of the bed by 1/4" so bump stops will be mandatory.
Metal prepped and c-notch marked (notice the long dimple on the left there is one on the right as well)
Plasma cutter back in action (you can see the c-notch on top of the frame to the left)
Welding in the c-notch (6.625" x 0.280" pipe that was cut 3-1/4" wide and then split in half all on a band saw)
Back of the c-notch installed
The bottom of the frame in front and back of the c-notch will be cut out as Ford clearanced the frame for the shocks. This was done in a press when the frame was made and we did debate heating it up and just hammering it flat and then thought better of it. Plasma cutter will make short work of it and I will make some templates and transfer those shapes to some plate I bought for this and the boxing work. Should look pretty slick when it is done. I am debating on getting a dimple die set and putting holes in the boxing plate. This would be for looks but also media blasting and getting the powder coat all in there.
Front side with additional welding to fill in some factory dimples
Ground all of that flat and then added some more filler weld and ground that down and then hit it with some 80 grit on a flapper wheel
So this is where we left it yesterday evening after two days of lots of interruptions which included attending two BBq's
So I hacked a rear axle for the truck to get it up on a trailer and out to my buddy's shop to finish the front suspension and then move to the four link. Here are a couple of pictures of the getto axle and I am proud to say it went up on the trailer and back down it with zero issues. We did put it on jack stands for the trip out there and strapped the crap out of it.
Removed the getto axle and then rolled the rear end under it and the driveshaft loop cross member that the front four link brackets will attach to. The ends were removed off the rear end as they are the wrong ones for the Explorer disc brake set up and it will be narrowed. I had to open up the ID of the four link rear brackets that slide on the axle tube as they were 3.00" and the stock axle tubes are 3.09". Metal carbide bit, die grinder, and a few minutes took care of that issue.
If it appears that the drive shaft loop cross member is offset to the passenger side you are correct. The 9" is centered in the truck and the center line of the pinion on it is 15/16" to the passenger side so we moved the loop over 1" to the passenger side. The motor and trans have a factory offset of 3/4" to the passenger side and with the motor mounts I am getting I can correct that to 1". Hopefully I can get a straight shot left to right on the drive shaft so the u-joints are only dealing with the up and down.
So with this setup the top of the drive shaft loop cross member is level with the center line of the rear axle. You need to know the diameter of the tire you are going to run to set this up and also know the ride height of the vehicle. From there the back of the drive shaft loop cross member is 25-3/4" forward of the rear axle center line. Once you have all of this figured out then its level the frame up from front to back and side to side and fire the plasma cutter up. We started with the driver shaft loop cross member first:
Plasma cutter in action
Fitment of cross member
Welded it up and then a couple rounds of welding to fill in the gaps and lots of grinding got this