Well decided enough is enough. Need to get the hell out of Pittsburgh for a few days. My parents have a house on the water down in Hertford North Carolina. Roughly 9 1/2 hours 1200 mile round trip. Belts and hoses are just fine. 68750 actual mileage. Everyone got me freaked out. “Well in 1983 68000 miles was like 500000 miles” “Well you know patty’s sister-in-law’s tempo had head gaskets replaced” you know general BS. What are your guys feelings. My Dad feels the motor and transmission should be pulled and taken apart and full re gasket. “Just because it’s old” or should I say the hell with worry and rent a car lol.
Thanks for the info. Cougars sadly fell off the map here 20 years ago from rust. I bought this car for 1400 400 extra because I felt guilty. The underside is new. The ppaint on the oil pan doesnt have a chip. Trying to value this car. It was to be a winter beater. But if the car is worth something id like to clean it up a bit. If not the pollution controls are comeing off and its going to be a 4 barrel toy. But i still want to be good to the car. Thinking $4500?? I dont know its got 68 right now. Front seats are rough.
This was thru a Cougar site. Had a vin decoder. Unless im a true idiot the comma should be "and". So XR7 AND 2dr coupe. Not sure figured Id run it past somebody that knows something. Do belive that top was a dealer option? Never seen another? May have to get a mira order or whatever they call it.
Have this really weird car. The car is marked LS. With a 5.0 which I thought XR was only turbo?Found it in harrisburg Pa with 65000 miles in MINT condition for $1000 bucks. Everything seems weird. Did a car Fax Pebble beach Ca was delivered. Stayed under 10000miles until 1992. In the trunk I found a Pen from the . I thought all 83 California cars were the 3.8 due to lack of 5.0 used up in the Tbirds and mustangs. Also thought there was no xr7 for 83. What is this car? Heard it may have been a Factory Demostrator or Promotional vehicle. I dunno also has a weird 1/4 vinyl roof I’ve never seen before.
Planning on useing the Holley red fuel pump with relay and regulator. All together id say $400 bucks. Need to start calling yards......would a normal mustang cast iron manifold fit? Or can I get away with useing aftermarket headers. Deleting all emissions. So id like to stay bolt on as far as possible. Do have the correct crossmember for duels. Very tempted to say a mustang H pipe will bold directly to my factory collectors.
Now im gathering parts to swap to carb. Cheapest ready to run distributor is this 746-PCE385.1005 thru jegs. $128. Vs Msd $350. Gave a half hearted attempt at finding timing marks on the crank.....didnt really see anything.....may just delete the non working AC system. Still a cluster.
Nope lost my temper. Bashed “REALLY beat the living hell outa” the throttle in my size 13 steel toes .....40 50 times. Refuses to kick down. It’s completely wide open. Hate to throw a rod. Today I had to restart the car 4 times. Then it ran flawlessly 75 mile. So next weekend I’m swapping over to carb.
Oh and there is 2 wires connected at the coolant thermostat. Alternator has wires going to a box so should be original. My first American toy. I’ve only messed with Datsun Z cars. Detroit must of had free wire and vacuum hoses given to them. Total mess. Starting to see why my 2.8 straight 6 had more power than this 5.0
Yeah the “idle control rod” does not move at all. Cold hot or in between. However I can flick the cam and it idles down. What I’m reading 4square.com or fox mustang forum is it also works with ambient temperature. This car was in Monterey California and Southern California. So maybe it’s stuck. I’ll check in the morning see if vacuum is getting there. 61 outside Right now.
Is this the cam in question. I have no clue on terminology and is frustrating. I’ve dealt with bosh jetronic for years. This is out of my knowledge. However there is a few positions that click. However it’s not moving at all between settings. When it goes wide open. I push the little cam over and it drops down to normal. My gut said this part was called a Idle control valve.
But I know it’s not. What do I call this at Napa so I can replace.
It is the EEC-iii 5.0 cleaned this fan shroud sticker gives all the info on tuning idle. Says anything over 50 Rpm needs the tv linkage adjusted. Takeing it that this was performed on a “Sun brand” scanner / ocillisocpe. I’m located near Pittsburgh so there are some better shops to take it too. I don’t want start blindly changing stuff. Once it’s warm I’ve driven her 260 miles one way at 75 not one issue. But its really just a 2 barrel Should make some power going to carb.....
However it’s a 1 owner car. Never been messed with. I know a 83 Mercury isn’t going to Pebble Beach or breaking records at Meguire. But I bought it to play with....more I drive it the more I like its floating suspension and silence in my pillow leather armchair. Maybe it will be collective.....almost removed the stereo....eh couldn’t thanks for advise. Always wanted this car since I was a child.
Just purchased a California 1983 Cougar with 60,000 miles. Having a slight issue. Cold idle becomes wide open throttle in 4/5 mins. Will not kick down unless I shut the car off a few times. Pedal is not stuck. Car is basicly undrivable due to power blocking when shifting into reverse or drive at wide open throttle.
Had it towed to my garage and basicly was shown the door. California emmission car.....no access to diagnostic tools for the computer. Was told to get classic plates. Pennslyvainia this means no longer needs to conform to emission testing. Then swap over to a carb. Or I can start throwing dozens of parts at the car.
Wouldnt mind the swap but this car is close to showroom condition. Dont know where or if I should start upgrades. The AOD just was serviced 50 miles after purchased. Was told a shift kit can wake it up for $500/$600
The intake and carb is a easy summit purchase. However need to decide If I should use the dura spark module or a 60's point style distributor. Or should I just try to save the EFI?