Well found arcing in the distributor cap. Changed it and the rotor. The slight miss vanished. However was still stalling with a 56% chance the battery wasn’t drained. Totally gave up. Noticed I have pretty good blow bye. Figured compression is down and I had a dead or weak hole. Checked my EGR by revving. Moved 1/2 inch. Shoved a screwdriver in felt a pop. Now the car runs absolutely perfect! Gets right up to highway speeds barely touching the gas. Battery has been staying charged. Runs like new........... Anyone have the scientific conclusion. What does the egr have to do with charging? Unless 600 rpm isn’t making charge and 800 does. Did have a VERY low idle
So new fuel tank, low pressure pump, high pressure pump and filter. Car runs awesome. Come to a light and every stop the car coughs shutters dies. Fires right back up. Idles good. No vacuum to the throttle kicker. Not sure if it's for the AC only? Only thing else I've done was run E3 spark plugs? Maybe that's a issue? Does have a rough idle back fires while reving. Doesn't like coasting either blah...blah....blah studders at 200 rpm battery light stalls. Fires up idles at 1000. I dunno too much plug not enough Coil?
Yeah instead of investing $$$ for a custom bent option I think we will invest that towards the interior/stereo/video. Lots of negative feelings towards "Full size" cars even though ours was a mid size. Since when did luxury mean BMW ride and handling. Ok so our downsized land yachts weren't the best. Maybe we need a new segment. American gluttony....."elegance"? Not how fast we can get there. It's about how comfortable can we get there? Pack some beef n chedders and a 86 oz mountain dew. Off topic but I know where I want to be with her. Plus ultra low mileage no reason to yank a perfectly fine drive train or RIP it apart trying to make it sound louder.
I dunno for me to do the exhaust correctly is to delete the pollution controls. Shorty headers no cats straight out to tips no h pipes or x pipes. Yet as good as that is. It’s the damn racket. We had a open pipe 280z sure screaming around at 7000 rpm to Motley Crue was fun but 900 miles on vacation is misery. Then seeing any crown vic caused panic attacks with the 25 year expired inspection lol
Waiting on bits for my fuel system rebuild. Noticed my tail pipe is rotten. I have two schools of thought. I live in Pennsylvania in a county whose emission standards are as strict as California. In a college town who is funded directly by college children’s car window tint . Mirror reflectivity and exhaust decibel level
So I must keep my smog pump lines and hoses. I notice this exhaust disconnected at the cats , has more of a shshshshshshshsshhhhh compressed air sound ,than engine note. Taking that’s the smog pump.
So instead of illegally driving my car with expired inspections. Thinking Maybe go ultra quiet. “Pull the interior, dyno mat everything and put a high quality sound system in. Soft springs for a ultra cruiser experience.
The other option is to listen to my inner 17 year old , wants to clothes hanger up a cherry bomb and a $22.00 tailpipe then install air shocks with 4” of rake and cross fingers. But I’m sure that’s a horrible option.
Bought the car solely on sentimental reasons. Hard to nail down a objective. Part of me wants a crate motor monster. Which here is impossible unless you have a source for licks and sticks. But I’m starting to settle for vacation/beach/. Long haul cruiser. If it was my choice I’d unbolt those buckets and use them in my living room they’re so damn comfy. Stuck in a rut I guess builders block. I dunno thoughts on going “elegance vs performance “ ?
Thanks. I seen a $25 eBay nos. My last letters are DA the other is CA. Did repair mine. Just wondering how vital the low pressure pump is. Mine looks like it’s been out of service for years. Car ran fine. Noticed the rubber line was completely rotten so anything under 3/4 tank was probably sucking air. But so far I ordered a new tank and low pressure pump kit. See how it acts. Appreciate the help.
I’ve been attached to some pretty bad cars. I pushed my poor Datsun to the point the driveshaft fell out. Not due to bad U joints.......due to the rotted subframe mounts on the rear axle falling out. But what I did for my Datsun and a lot of others is research. I’d keep the hard to find stuff. Rear glass.Front grill/ headlamp assembly. Front and rear bumpers and crash bars trim. Tail lights. Forgot mine in the Datsun. Bit me on another project had to pay $300 bucks for ones that were in worse condition than the ones that went through the crusher. Then the sentimental. Keep the steering wheel or stereo or little trinkets.
Yea, goal before fall was to have her daily reliable. So figured adding mods was just going to clutter everything up. So restore the tank and sending unit back to factory spec. If it still acts up I’ll just follow the fuel. High pressure pump ,regulator, injectors. Then turn to ignition if needed. My car has low mileage. With a 4 year old daughter taking interest in the hobby. I really don’t need a fire breathing monster. I may just add a duel exhaust. But even then we enjoy taking a cruise in comfy leather and total silence. May get another 50/60,000 miles out of the car. THEN swap a crate.
Ordered the tank and low pressure pump for $140.88 with shipping from rock auto. Still need the sock and filter #4. Problem is I still can’t find a new sending unit. Last letters are DA found one one eBay looks identical but is a CA for 84-86.
Only reason is I’m trying to avoid issues. Called around. 4 different tanks. 4 different prices. Soonest available would be the last week of August. But when your right your right. Plus I never ever in my life do this again. Still had 15 gallons in the tank. Pretty stupid but I had no way to pump it out.
Found out my original motorcraft fuel filter was plugged solid. Literally weighs 8 lbs lol. Went 2 miles on filter #2. Then 15 on #3. Same situation use up available fuel in the line then bogs and throws a fit until the pump catches up. So freeway 70mph 3 miles try’s to stall, ride the shoulder for a mile at 20 and it takes back off. Well today I dropped the tank. 65000 mile California car. Bolts everything look showroom new. Tank doesn’t have any exterior rust. So pulled the sending unit. Rusty inside. Put a handful of gravel in shook it up with dawn. Power washed the insides. Still got rust but cleaned up 50%......the low pressure pump looks like it hasn’t worked in years? The screen also was nasty. Is the low pressure pump vital for the car to run. Maybe that was the major issue. I ordered a new low pressure pump and screen. Thought I’d slap her together and call it done. No holes in tank but once that coating is gone I’d imagine the rust will be coming back. But if the car is a semi daily it shouldn’t build up as bad?
By today's standards, the stock audio stuff in a Fox Bird is archaic.
For it's time though, it was pretty good.
If you want a Cadillac, you're in the wrong place.
Remember, the last Fox Bird/Cougar is now over 30 years old.....what DO you expect from the car?
Just find the switch funny, totally not needed but I’m sure was a “extra” cost item.
In general what absolutely sends me into a fit is these garages. Now there’s places like South main auto channel.Granted YouTube.... Where he tests sensors with oscilloscopes, tracks down faults repairs the car. Gas monkey garage can put a hellcat engine in a 70s challenger. Yet 5+ garages can only do what a OB2 scanner.....if they have the correct scanner for your model ......tells them.
These shops just focus on turn over on the bays. Yet they call themselves mechanics. Almost anyone can do a lube or brake job. So now it’s up to me to rip the entire fuel system out in my attached garage. Anyone from Pittsburgh? I’ll give you $1500.00 to do the pumps and blow out the lines. :)
Pretty sad I had more access to repair work with my 1979 Datsun then I do with this mercury. Eh sentimental value sucks otherwise it would be on fire 🤬