It'll be a flash based flip book, the pages are flying through my scanner's feed tray at 300dpi even as I type this. I'll want to only upload this once, so who has a good file host or ftp where I can plant this thing and link it? Any opinions on sharing it as a torrent? I'd only make the .torrent available here on the forum.
I've discovered enough differences between 87 and 88 that I might do this again with the 87 book if this one turns out good.
UPDATE: Done Click this link to start download for PC version download, or this link for Mac.
So I decided that what I needed was a 4R70W trans pan, the capacity is a little more, and it's got that cute little sump that is perfect for a drain plug. I found a new one just sitting under a bench, so I painted it, made a drain hole, welded a 12x1.75 nut inside the hole, and took it to the vehicle. Once there I discovered that the pan rail was just 1 hole different compared to the AOD. No big, bolt it on with all the bolts that DO fit, cut a new hole in the gasket through the misfit bolt hole, center-punch, 17/64 drill, 8x1.25 tap, and we're back in business. New bolts in, lower the hoist, fill the trans, lift and check for leaks, and it's g out of the bellhousing. :punchballs:
I happen to know that the new hole went through into the bellhousing and I didn't think much of it. Now I had a problem. Pulled the new bolt and like a windowlicker, I wrap it in thread tape and reinstall. No change.
I didn't plug the old hole and the gasket still has a hole there. I used my new drain plug, and almost right away the bellhousing quits running fluid. Dropped the pan, checked, and sure enough, the old hole goes into the bell just like the new one. I filled the old hole with grey RTV and left a blob hanging out of the hole to fill the hole in the gasket. Buttoned up, filled, checked and dry. :burnout: Point of advice: When you move a bolt hole, get rid of the old one.
I'm starting to seriously consider a T5 swap. What are the community thoughts on clutch types (dual friction, twin plate, etc.) and what are your thoughts on flywheel types (aluminum, stock, dual mass, etc.)? Also, who out there in FoxTbirdCougarForums land has interior parts for a floor console swap?
I agreed to help a friend body swap his Mk3 VR6 GTI. If you're familiar with these cars, you're excused; you don't have to click through.
Total nightmare. Stripping and transferring has been easy enough for the most part, but SWEET CHRIST the electrical system had to have been engineered by a near-sighted German bishagual on bath salts. It's like trying to sort out a bowl of multi-colored spaghetti with welding gloves and tweezers. He started a thread on VWVortex I've never facepalmed so much over one car. Every relay is different, seriously, not interchangeable from one socket to another. Seven harnesses in the dash, three through the firewall, two to the back of the car, and if that wasn't bad enough the ed Bro's that originally smoothed and filled the engine bay cut off every mount, every harness stud, covered every harness hole, blocked the evaporator hole off, covered every bolt hole and anchor point. And their paint job looks like it was done in a room with no lights after drinking and spinning in an office chair. Some guy on the forum pipes up and says "yeah, my buddy and I did that to the car but lost interest". I would totally not cop to being responsible for that buttshagery, just sayin. Anybody have anything worse to make me feel better about how bad I stepped in it?
I finally fixed my broken cc servo. Parts cost $0. I never heard of anybody opening one up, but you can get remans so I figured somebody MUST open them. I pulled the unit, snipped the band and had me a looksee inside. The pull was broken off the servo piston (a glorified plastic disc with a pull nub on it) the fix, drill a 1/8 hole up through the disc into the pull, apply epoxy, then fix together with a short, and I do mean short, screw. wait to cure, reassemble. Applied a thin layer of black RTV to the rim of the rubber bellows where it seals against the case halves, reinstalled the band around the servo and secured it with a large hose clamp to keep it from spreading back open and reinstalled in vehicle. Don't mix up the dump hose with the supply hose (you'll get a very loud surprise when right after startup the servo pulls to WOT), it's a good way to verify the repair, but not worth the shock. Road tested, and then had a beer. Wish I had thought to take pics.
Looking for tools you've made. Maybe the right tool didn't exist, maybe it was expensive, maybe you're left handed. Whatever reason, let's see 'em. High Current test Light essentially the "headlight and 2 wires" you might have seen before, but I needed something lighter, less breakable, better handling, and generally not so shade tree looking. So I got a bunch of shatter resistant acrylic tubing, some 9004/9007 connectors, some leads, some headlight retaining rings, some test clamps and some drop light caps. Draws 5A wired to Lo, and 7A wired to Hi.
Borked up my discharge manifold, New part is limited availability and $50. I was hoping somebody here had a spare they'd sell me at a reasonable price. The Part: The Problem:
One or two of you are talented electronics people, and I could use some help. I want to build an accessory delay timer for my Bird. Such a timer would receive a pwon signal from ignition on or acc, and would power up and hold a relay. The relay would remain energized for 10 minutes OR until a ground signal is given from a door ajar switch. There it is. I'm an electrical specialist at a Ford dealer, so I can build it and integrate it into the vehicle very easily, but my talents don't extend into electronic design. If anybody can help design the device, their help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm looking at 2.5 inches to bumper, no cats, shorty headers. Am I going to run into trouble adapting mustang catback parts (extension of the intermediate pipes and extension of the tails), and will I have a problem running 2.5 inch tails?
Any parts recommendations are welcome, what's worked well for you guys? I don't want super loud, just good flow. :burnout:
So, my column shift linkage really sucks after my h-pipe install. I can't get manual first anymore because I had to re-position the joint. I wan't to know if anybody else has dealt with the same, and what the fix might be. Otherwise, has anybody heard of staying with column shift, but converting to a cable linkage?
