I'm starting to seriously consider a T5 swap. What are the community thoughts on clutch types (dual friction, twin plate, etc.) and what are your thoughts on flywheel types (aluminum, stock, dual mass, etc.)? Also, who out there in FoxTbirdCougarForums land has interior parts for a floor console swap?
I agreed to help a friend body swap his Mk3 VR6 GTI. If you're familiar with these cars, you're excused; you don't have to click through.
Total nightmare. Stripping and transferring has been easy enough for the most part, but SWEET CHRIST the electrical system had to have been engineered by a near-sighted German bisexual on bath salts. It's like trying to sort out a bowl of multi-colored spaghetti with welding gloves and tweezers. He started a thread on VWVortex I've never facepalmed so much over one car. Every relay is different, seriously, not interchangeable from one socket to another. Seven harnesses in the dash, three through the firewall, two to the back of the car, and if that wasn't bad enough the damned Bro's that originally smoothed and filled the engine bay cut off every mount, every harness stud, covered every harness hole, blocked the evaporator hole off, covered every bolt hole and anchor point. And their paint job looks like it was done in a room with no lights after drinking and spinning in an office chair. Some guy on the forum pipes up and says "yeah, my buddy and I did that to the car but lost interest". I would totally not cop to being responsible for that buttfuckery, just sayin. Anybody have anything worse to make me feel better about how bad I stepped in it?
I finally fixed my broken cc servo. Parts cost $0. I never heard of anybody opening one up, but you can get remans so I figured somebody MUST open them. I pulled the unit, snipped the band and had me a looksee inside. The pull was broken off the servo piston (a glorified plastic disc with a pull nub on it) the fix, drill a 1/8 hole up through the disc into the pull, apply epoxy, then fix together with a short, and I do mean short, screw. wait to cure, reassemble. Applied a thin layer of black RTV to the rim of the rubber bellows where it seals against the case halves, reinstalled the band around the servo and secured it with a large hose clamp to keep it from spreading back open and reinstalled in vehicle. Don't mix up the dump hose with the supply hose (you'll get a very loud surprise when right after startup the servo pulls to WOT), it's a good way to verify the repair, but not worth the shock. Road tested, and then had a beer. Wish I had thought to take pics.
Looking for tools you've made. Maybe the right tool didn't exist, maybe it was expensive, maybe you're left handed. Whatever reason, let's see 'em. High Current test Light essentially the "headlight and 2 wires" you might have seen before, but I needed something lighter, less breakable, better handling, and generally not so shade tree looking. So I got a bunch of shatter resistant acrylic tubing, some 9004/9007 connectors, some leads, some headlight retaining rings, some test clamps and some drop light caps. Draws 5A wired to Lo, and 7A wired to Hi.
One or two of you are talented electronics people, and I could use some help. I want to build an accessory delay timer for my Bird. Such a timer would receive a pwon signal from ignition on or acc, and would power up and hold a relay. The relay would remain energized for 10 minutes OR until a ground signal is given from a door ajar switch. There it is. I'm an electrical specialist at a Ford dealer, so I can build it and integrate it into the vehicle very easily, but my talents don't extend into electronic design. If anybody can help design the device, their help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm looking at 2.5 inches flange to bumper, no cats, shorty headers. Am I going to run into trouble adapting mustang catback parts (extension of the intermediate pipes and extension of the tails), and will I have a problem running 2.5 inch tails?
Any parts recommendations are welcome, what's worked well for you guys? I don't want super loud, just good flow. :burnout:
So, my column shift linkage really sucks after my h-pipe install. I can't get manual first anymore because I had to re-position the joint. I wan't to know if anybody else has dealt with the same, and what the fix might be. Otherwise, has anybody heard of staying with column shift, but converting to a cable linkage?
I found this in the left behind junk about 10 years ago while I was moving into a new bay at a new job. I want to stick it to my trunk if I like where it's from. Problem is, I can't seem to trace it to what year T-Bird it came from, and I don't want to feel like an idiot after I find out its from a cycle or a lawn tractor or something stupid like that.
Later this summer I'm putting together an engine for my T-Bird, and I'm undecided on a few points, I'm wondering who can draw on their experience and lend a hand. Parts I am decided on: 64cc GT40X heads E303 cam Explorer upper w/internal EGR Requisite MAF conversion 1 5/8 unequal length shorties 2 1/2 H-pipe (mine is 2") 2 1/2 cat-back
Undecided: Short block -rebuild my HO, or get a late model 351 and rebuild it instead Lower intake -pretty much goes with the short block choice, Explorer lower or Lightning lower Timing set -stock or something else Oiling -do I want a high volume/pressure pump?
Any good input is appreciated, I've built all manner of other engines, but never a Windsor motor. I'm making my estimate at 300 HP in the HO or 340-345 HP with the 351.