Just wanted to clarify something. The brake rod attached the the brake pedal which pushes on the diaphragm in the booster. There is a rod in the booster which in turn actuates the master cylinder. There is no brake fluid in the booster. If there is no fluid in the MC then you have an external leak somewhere which should be easy to spot. If there is a normal fluid level in your MC and the pedal is going to the floor then the internal seals in the MC are shot and letting fluid bypass around them.
I have had all three things happen to a car at one point or another so I just thought I would post with this to help others that read this thread.
Me too and it may be the terminology you are using. Struts are the dampers on the front of the car. Are you talking about the caster/camber plates for the struts or are you talking about the upper control arms (UCA's) on the rear end of the car?
Run the Moog springs as I am sure the factory ones are done anyhow. Springs are a wear item as the spring constant will decline from mechanical cycling. Typically I ditch coil springs at the 80K mark but that is just me and what I have experienced. If a car has low miles and has sat for years then the springs will sag like a car that has high miles in less time. I found this on a coil spring manufacturer's site:
[COLOR="blue"]Many types of automotive coil springs are wound in an annealed (soft) condition and then tempered to achieve their strength as a spring. Over time, this tempering can be lost and the spring will sag because it can no longer withstand the loads applied.
Most coil springs fail due to constant overloading, excessive up and down movement or just a general breakdown due to metal fatigue. Springs can also corrode and rust. How do you know if you have a suspension problem? You’ll probably feel it if a spring fails, your ride will become hard and jarring. Failed shocks may result in excessive “bouncing” or up and down movement of your car’s front or back end. It may also become harder to steer, and could feel like your vehicle is pulling to the left or right.[/COLOR]
Changing the rear springs is about a 45 minute job. Jack up the car and place jack stands under the rear subframe just in front of where the LCA's attach to the car. Use a floor jack to raise the rear end enough to unbolt the shocks from the rear end. Slowly lower the rear end and you should be able to get enough room to remove the rear springs from between the LCA and the frame of the car. Sometimes you will have to have a buddy push down on the axle of the rear end to get enough space to remove the spring. Install the new spring with new isolators and repeat on the other side.
What you are referring to is a helper spring on the rear shock. A true coil over takes the place of the original coil spring. My dad installed a set of Moog rear springs in my 83 waaay back in the day due to the rear sagging so bad on family trips with all the weight in the rear. They were a bit higher rate which did not affect the ride height but it helped with the sag in the rear.
The equal length shorties will take up more room between the cylinder head and the inner fender of the car. This is due to the way the tubes bend and turn around each other to create the equal lengths. The unequal length shorties are more forgiving and in all honesty you do not loose much hp or torque between two on a motor that is 300 hp or less.
I found this summary on Ebay (I know, shoot me later) which gave a pretty good summary on what X-pipes do.
[COLOR="Blue"]X-Pipes are a leap forward in technology, over the H-Pipe. Due to the firing order, engines pulsate. X-Pipes smooth out this "pulsation" to allow for a smooth balance between cylinder banks. Translation: Less back pressure, less heat build up, and better exhaust scavenging (scavenging is the ability to allow burnt exhaust gasses to exit the combustion chamber faster and more thoroughly). The result is a significant increase in power and torque, as well as noise cancellation. What more could you ask for?
Your X-Pipes should be mandrel bent (keeps its shape throughout the bends with no flow reduction-no kinks), 16 gauge aluminized steel or stainless steel, with or without catalytic converters, and off or on-road use, depending on your requirements. X-Pipes with catalytic converters should be high flow.[/COLOR]
I had to add about 8" to the length in the cat back on my 83. I had a buddy that owned an exhaust shop do the work and then I had them HPC coated.
jrad235, Keep us posted on what if any changes you make and where are those pics?? Hope your move went smooth. I moved coming up on two years ago and the only good thing I can say is I found a lot of junk that I had been "missing".
You mentioned that the Stang A-arms are too long, would this be the SN-95 control arms? I reread the thread and I am pretty sure you were going to try the SN-95's but I just wanted to keep it straight in my head.
Are you guys using internal spring compressors? Mine worked really well and it took one time per side once I got it figured out. I compressed the spring with the drive end of the spring compressor (the end that you put the impace wrench on) so it is at the bottom of the spring. Compressed the spring and installed the whole assembly between the K-member and the LCA. The drive end of the spring compressor came through the hole in the LCA and then you would use the impact to back it off. You have to completely disassemble the spring compressor inside the spring and retrieve all the parts through the hole in the LCA.
I think I did this at least a dozen times on my two birds. I switched to coil overs and would recommend them as well but its not cheap.
Here is the driver side installed with Chuck's rear shock adapter for the Griggs coil overs and Mustang length Koni dampers. You cannot see how the SS braided lines are connected in this shot but it gives you the idea:
I used the rear hard lines off of a 87-93 Mustang so I could utalize the SS braided line from the hard line on the body to the hard lines on the rear end. It also cleared up some room for the right tail pipe as the 3" cat back pipes need all the room they can get.
I got the double flaring tool from Sears and I would suggest practicing on some junk tubing prior to doing the ones on the car.
Well my guy struck out, here is what he had to say:
[COLOR="blue"]"Well I've run into dead ends.... The numbers you gave me are actually service numbers which are different than the engineering numbers which should be stamped on the parts. However was able to cross them back to engineering numbers and got: E5SZ-5025-A = E5SC 5025 CG E7SZ-5025-A = E7SC 5025 AF But unfortunately I couldn't find any usage information or prints in our system. Guessing they are too old and now fall outside our retention window.
My thoughts on your question are that the k-members should bolt in place of one another, even the mustang k-members should bolt to the t-bird chassis. The difference you'll most likely see is in the location of the lower control arm mounting points do to differences in track, ride height, anti-dive, etc. It's not uncommon for those points to shift slightly over the years with everything else remaining unchanged.
I replied back and thanked him for looking. I guess it up to the masses to get out there and measure the stock units up. I will see if I can located any stock k-members here locally on my off days and see if I can get some measurements now that it is warming up.
Are you referring to the dual piston (44mm) PBR's off the 99 and up V6/GT Mustangs? I know they will work on the five lug conversions with the 94-95 & 96-98 Mustang spindles. You have to clearance the spindles just a tad on the top side of the spindle above each "ear" the caliper bolts to. I did this on my 93 coupe and the brakes were awesome. If you are talking about using these calipers on the 11" Fox rotors and Fox spindles I have no idea if they will work. I am thinking not as the SN95 rotors are 11.75" in diameter but I have not tried.