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Messages - Aerocoupe
Article that goes into depth on how the rack works (spool info is in here):
So just like you and I said its costly to change the over boosted nature of the Fox body cars but if you really want that right feel and to do it right you need to change the rack. This also explains why I did not like the steering my buddy's Fox Mustang after the spring was cut and the comments others made on "no real change" when they cut theirs. I don't remember how much they cut but I don't think anyone got down below an inch in length.
By no means am I telling you what to do but I did want to mention a couple things with regards to the steering effort on our cars. In my experience cutting the spring on the pump only increases the effort of getting the steering wheel off center. This is due to there being zero boost when the rack is centered. Once it breaks off center that is when the boost is applied. The boost is regulated by the torsion bar within the rack and pinion so unless you can rebuild a rack and change this part there is very little that can be done to change the boost on a Fox rack. One thing that seemed to help was the larger diameter SN95 V6 power steering pulley which when installed on a Fox pump would under drive it thus would help with the over boosted feeling but not to the point of what I would call decent.
To really solve the over boosted issue a 99-04 SN95 rack needs to be installed which has improved bearings and stiffer torsion bars. Notice I said "bars". Different models of Mustang had different racks in them and are differentiated by the SPR code on the rack which can be found as follows:
This chart shows the racks by stiffness (1-6 in order of stiffness):
Obviously the Cobra R rack is unobtainium and everyone and their dog went after the '03 & '04 Cobra racks so they are impossible to find now so I would look for a '99, '01, or '02 Cobra rack and then on to the '02-'04 GT or Mach 1.
MM's hybrid steering shaft makes the adaptation to our cars very trouble free but they are not cheap but none of this is. From there you get into having to decide whether or not to run the Fox inner and outer tie rods or to use the SN95 parts. All of this is here:
I have done this on both my '93 Coupe and my '83 T-Bird and it was like night and day difference.
Making some hella progress!
or Ron Francis like this one:
The reason I say this is I stripped the EEC completely out of my '83 to put the carbed 351W in it and everything works as it should. You can take this same approach and then put an aftermarket harness in the car which will avoid stuffing at best a 27 year old harness EEC-IV from a Mustang or at best a 32 year old EEC-IV harness from a T-Bird or Cougar in it. With the EEC-IV cars the engine harness integrates into the dash harness so everything plays better with factory harnesses. You are not in that category so why put an old harness in the car and risk electrical issues which make a project like this a bummer.
However, if you are a wiring guru then play on with the factory harness.
As for the fuel lines there are two ways you can do this that I know of. One is to modify the stock sending unit / fuel pump hanger assembly to accept a high pressure fuel pump like a Walbro 225 lph unit. The pump that is currently on it is a low pressure unit that moves fuel to the high pressure pump mounted on the passenger rear subframe. Then you will need to either find factory 5.0 fuel lines for the high pressure and return lines to the motor. Another option would be to remove the low pressure fuel pump from the stock sending unit / fuel pump hanger assembly and weld up the holes from the fuel lines that pass through the stock sending unit / fuel pump hanger assembly and reinstall into the tank. From here you will need to build a high pressure fuel system with a fuel filter, regulator, and return line and a way to get the fuel out of the tank like a sump. Lots of ways to do this as the Fox Mustang guys have been doing this for years with Aeromotive pumps and the like. You can score a set of factory Mustang fuel injector rails and install a good regulator on that. From there Aeroquip and Russell both make fittings that will connect to the stock fuel rails and allow a guy to run the Teflon lined braided fuel lines back to the tank. So lots of ways to get fuel from the tank to the motor.
The aftermarket harnesses will have a fuel pump turn on wire or possibly even include a relay then all you have to do is wire that up to the fuel pump.
Things like a clutch switch to interrupt the start circuit so you cannot start the car unless it is in neutral is up to you. My '83 does not have this as I just did not wire it in.
If you need the Factory wiring diagram for your car I have one scanned up and can email it to you.
That is the one thing I regret not doing when I had my car painted in ‘98 was doing the underside. Wasn’t an issue then but now I’m seeing very small areas of surface rust. Only a few but that’s how it starts. Having the car in the shop year around and not driving it in wet weather has helped.
The uppers look great man!! Keep pushing through as they are so worth it.
I would just weld up everything where the parts were spot welded together and if I would have know these existed I would have put them on my Coupe:
Grigg’s website does say that on ‘94+ street driven Mustangs you will have to run a manual seat track on the driver side or modify the upper subframe tube to clear the power track. Might suggest the Fox style will clear it. I do know the lower seat frame just about touches the upper subframe tube when all the way back with the seat track bolted to the rear seat of holes on the lower seat frame of a Fox Mustang seat on a manual 83 Bird seat track.
On a side note the ride improved with the subframe connectors installed.