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Topics - Jeremy Belcher

Suspension/Steering / Coil-overs at stock ride height?
I gave Maximum Motorsports a call today to confirm that Koni DAs would work with my car and was told that if I went with coil-overs my ride height would be at least two inches lower than stock.

Can anybody confirm that stock ride height is not attainable with Koni coil-overs?
Vendor/Seller Feedback / CAUTION - snatchrick
There is a thread over at the corral regarding snatchrick aka Patrick McCurdy. [Link]

Synopsis [as of 7/13]:

snatchrick sells a set of wheels [1][2][3] to jw98lx.

June 6th - Payment received by snatchrick
June 15th- Several PMs sent to snatchrick, no reply
June 29th - Corral thread started
July 10th - Snatchrick says money is sent. Dares corralers to break his legs
July 10th to Present - Snatchrick taunts the forum and generally makes an ass of himself

I bought a tripminder from him 2 years ago and found the transaction to be conducted professionally. I believe he had sold many items on various forums in the past without incident. However, I have posted this as a warning in case he has changed his ways.

The denizens at the Corral have also made complete asses of themselves in my eyes. The level of abuse seems overboard for the actions of the seller...thus far. Now if the "moneygram" doesn't come through by Monday, I see no reason to taunt him to the fullest.

Also, he hasn't offered any explanation and hasn't logged onto this forum since 6/27...both quite shady.
Engine Swapping / EFI 351W Intake Primer
I've been mostly physically incapacitated in the short-term, so I've had time to endlessly surf the internet...some results.

If you swap in an EFI 5.8L and want to keep a long-runner intake, you have options from 3 manufacturers - Ford, Trick Flow Specialties, and Edelbrock.

If you stick with Ford - there is one option.

- Buy a 5.8L GT40 lower and GT40 upper.

These two intakes are the only ones known to fit under our hoods.

If you go with TFS - there are also 2 options.

1. Windsor Series
2. Box R-Series

Both series use the same lower, but the R-series upper is far more performance oriented. The R-series has shorter runners, no provision for EGR, and a 90mm TB opening. The Windsor series is available with either a 75 or 90mm TB opening. The 90mm option deletes EGR. They are all the same height (1" greater than the GT40 setup).

If you go with Edelbrock - there are 3 options.

1. Victor Series
2. Performer Truck lower with Performer 5.0 upper
3. Performer Truck lower with Performer RPM 5.0 upper

The Victor is the most radical route. It has no provision for EGR or PCV. It is also the tallest EFI intake available (1.5" higher than the GT40).
The Performer Truck lower and Performer/Performer RPM has provisions for EGR and PCV. The Performer RPM is the racier of the two. Height of these combos is unknown.

Some Eye candy.
A spreadsheet.
Drivetrain Tech / '99-'04 Mustang axles into a 7.5" (Fitment & Feasibility)
I was thinking about putting some '99-'04 Mustang axles into my '87 7.5" rear end. The housings should be very close or the same in width. Data from Jim Miller's thread shows they're .06" different. Installation of the Detroit TrueTrac and rear girdle should increase the strength enough to live behind a mild 351W sans slicks and drag launches. Does it save much weight or make monetary sense, no. :hick:
On the fitment issue, I'm sure members have swapped in Mark VII rears, but I can't find any threads regarding it. I'm worried about tire/wheel to fender clearance
Misc Tech / Pegging an Auto Meter Speedometer "bad"?
One day, far, far in the future, I am going to copy Eric et al. and install a set of Auto Meter gauges in place of the current cluster. I'll certainly be going over 120 mph, although I won't really care to know how much over. I'd rather have the 120 mph gauge, versus the 160 for the increased resolution. So, anybody have know if pegging the gauge would cause any damage? I would guess not, but I'd like to know, rather than wasting $200.

Yes, I realize this question is retarded. :hick:
Archive & Library (Read Only) / 3.8/4.2L Split Port Swap into a Fox
Bottom line, the CFI 3.8 is a stinky turd.

What do you do to remedy this? The easiest way is to swap in a 5.0. However, if you are mentally deranged like myself, a Windsor V6 upgrade looks like a feasible option.

There are a multitude of later model 3.8s to throw in:

1988 Fox --- (SD - MPI)
'89-'90 MN12 (SD - ?)
'91-97' MN12 (MAF - SEFI)
'94-'98 SN95  (MAF - SEFI)
'99-'04 SN95  (MAF - SEFI)

There are many more differences between the engines and peripherals than the SD/MAF and MPI/SEFI designation, but it makes for a nice arbitrary compartmentalization.

Now that one knows where to grab a better 3.8L, the questions becomes, which 3.8L do you grab? Since the main reason for the swap is a power increase, let us sort them by power output:

1984-1987 Fox - 120 hp@3600 rpm -- 205 ft-lb@1600 rpm
------1988 Fox - 140 hp@3600 rpm --205 ft-lb@1600 rpm
1989-1995 MN12 140 hp@3800 rpm --215 ft-lb@2400 rpm
1996-1997 MN12 145 hp@4000 rpm --215 ft-lb@2750 rpm
1994-1995 SN95- 145 hp@4000 rpm --215 ft-lb@2750 rpm
1996-1998 SN95 -150 hp@4000 rpm --215 ft-lb@2750 rpm
1999-2000 SN95 - 190 hp@5250 rpm -220 ft-lb@2750 rpm
2001-2004 SN95 - 193 hp@5500 rpm -225 ft-lb@2800 rpm
1996-2003 WStar 200 hp@4900 rpm - 240 ft-lb@3600 rpm
1997-2005 Truck -200 hp@4700 rpm - 250 ft-lb@2700 rpm (4.2L)

The engine slowly gained power through the years, but the major change was the introduction of the split port intake. The split port's large power increase (>25%) makes it the prime swap candidate.

The swap can be done in a multitude of ways, but the most direct is to take an entire engine, EEC and harness from a '99-04 Mustang. There are several things to be aware of though.

Clearance -

The Mustang upper should clear a stock hood.
The 4.2L upper almost certainly won't.
The Windstar upper won't either.

EEC Issues -

Even after swapping in a complete EEC-V computer and harness, there are still problems. PATS, EVAP and the returnless fuel system. All three can both be turned off with an SCT flash - problem solved.

Chassis Wiring -

I've looked through my EVTM's and can't find which wires interface with the EEC harness. However, whatever they are, a little "custom" splicing and dicing will do the trick.

Fuel Deliver -

99+ Mustangs use a returnless fuel system. The problem is that Walbro type pumps will surge and die if run with PWM. Since the 99+ Mustang pumps (vane) won't drop in, you must modify the fuel rails to keep a return system. F150 or Windstar rails are normally the ones people modify to fit.

Transmission -

You can go manual or automatic. The easiest option is to just pull the 4R70W or T5 that came with the engine.

Throttle Cable -

Unsure if Mustang cable is long enough or will interface with the pedal correctly.

A/C -

Liquid line should work. Custom hoses needed for discharge and suction

P/S -

Pressure hose might work.

Coolant Hoses -

SN95 radiator has larger inlet/outlets than Fox.
Water pump inlet and thermostat outlet are same for SN95/Fox.
Upper radiator hose is the same length for SN95/Fox, might fit...
Lower hose is 4" longer. Frankenhose may be required.
Heater core inlet hose may/may not fit

Tripminder -

Microcontroller required to convert injector pulses, duty cycle to pulse-train equivalent to DOL. Use GUFB

I'm sure I have missed several important items, but this is a draft to be built upon.

I have focused on the 3.8, but you can swap in a 4.2 (or put 4.2 internals in a 3.8) too. The 3.8/4.2 heads are the same, the main external difference is in the size of the upper intake. The truck intakes are much taller, as seen below (L-R, 01+ Mustang intake, 4.2L intake, 99-00 Mustang intake)

A few people have swapped in Windstar intakes, but those require 4" cowl hoods on SN95s. The following is a '96-'98 intake.

The Windstar intake is actually the best power-wise. It makes 7 more horsepower and 25 more ft-lb of torque than a Mustang, and the Windstar has a more restrictive exhaust. This is due to the increased height of the intake. Also, as you can tell, the intake is plastic.
Lounge / Google TV
Google TV

I've tried about ten times, I haven't gotten in yet. It sounds sweet.
Suspension/Steering / P/S pump "break in"?
I finally got done putting the Tbird back together, which entailed a new rack and pump. The new pump whines like a banshee...and after driving it around town for a bit, the lines are too hot to grasp. I've bled the pump, but it made no difference.

Does a pump break in, or is this reman. Motorcraft pump a piece of junk right out of the box?