There is a thread over at the corral regarding snatchrick aka Patrick McCurdy. [Link]
Synopsis [as of 7/13]:
snatchrick sells a set of wheels  to jw98lx.
June 6th - Payment received by snatchrick June 15th- Several PMs sent to snatchrick, no reply June 29th - Corral thread started July 10th - Snatchrick says money is sent. Dares corralers to break his legs July 10th to Present - Snatchrick taunts the forum and generally makes an ass of himself
I bought a tripminder from him 2 years ago and found the transaction to be conducted professionally. I believe he had sold many items on various forums in the past without incident. However, I have posted this as a warning in case he has changed his ways.
The denizens at the Corral have also made complete asses of themselves in my eyes. The level of abuse seems overboard for the actions of the seller...thus far. Now if the "moneygram" doesn't come through by Monday, I see no reason to taunt him to the fullest.
Also, he hasn't offered any explanation and hasn't logged onto this forum since 6/27...both quite shady.
I was fooling around with Ray Hall's TurboCalc program and noticed the graphs were poorly done. Some of the points were 5-10% off. The TurboCalc applet corrected that but has incorrect charge air temps.
I've been mostly physically incapacitated in the short-term, so I've had time to endlessly surf the internet...some results.
If you swap in an EFI 5.8L and want to keep a long-runner intake, you have options from 3 manufacturers - Ford, Trick Flow Specialties, and Edelbrock.
If you stick with Ford - there is one option.
- Buy a 5.8L GT40 lower and GT40 upper.
These two intakes are the only ones known to fit under our hoods.
If you go with TFS - there are also 2 options.
1. Windsor Series 2. Box R-Series
Both series use the same lower, but the R-series upper is far more performance oriented. The R-series has shorter runners, no provision for EGR, and a 90mm TB opening. The Windsor series is available with either a 75 or 90mm TB opening. The 90mm option deletes EGR. They are all the same height (1" greater than the GT40 setup).
If you go with Edelbrock - there are 3 options.
1. Victor Series 2. Performer Truck lower with Performer 5.0 upper 3. Performer Truck lower with Performer RPM 5.0 upper
The Victor is the most radical route. It has no provision for EGR or PCV. It is also the tallest EFI intake available (1.5" higher than the GT40). The Performer Truck lower and Performer/Performer RPM has provisions for EGR and PCV. The Performer RPM is the racier of the two. Height of these combos is unknown.
I was thinking about putting some '99-'04 Mustang axles into my '87 7.5" rear end. The housings should be very close or the same in width. Data from Jim Miller's thread shows they're .06" different. Installation of the Detroit TrueTrac and rear girdle should increase the strength enough to live behind a mild 351W sans slicks and drag launches. Does it save much weight or make monetary sense, no. :hick: . On the fitment issue, I'm sure members have swapped in Mark VII rears, but I can't find any threads regarding it. I'm worried about tire/wheel to fender clearance
One day, far, far in the future, I am going to copy Eric et al. and install a set of Auto Meter gauges in place of the current cluster. I'll certainly be going over 120 mph, although I won't really care to know how much over. I'd rather have the 120 mph gauge, versus the 160 for the increased resolution. So, anybody have know if pegging the gauge would cause any damage? I would guess not, but I'd like to know, rather than wasting $200.
The engine slowly gained power through the years, but the major change was the introduction of the split port intake. The split port's large power increase (>25%) makes it the prime swap candidate.
The swap can be done in a multitude of ways, but the most direct is to take an entire engine, EEC and harness from a '99-04 Mustang. There are several things to be aware of though.
The Mustang upper should clear a stock hood. The 4.2L upper almost certainly won't. The Windstar upper won't either.
EEC Issues -
Even after swapping in a complete EEC-V computer and harness, there are still problems. PATS, EVAP and the returnless fuel system. All three can both be turned off with an SCT flash - problem solved.
Chassis Wiring -
I've looked through my EVTM's and can't find which wires interface with the EEC harness. However, whatever they are, a little "custom" splicing and dicing will do the trick.
Fuel Deliver -
99+ Mustangs use a returnless fuel system. The problem is that Walbro type pumps will surge and die if run with PWM. Since the 99+ Mustang pumps (vane) won't drop in, you must modify the fuel rails to keep a return system. F150 or Windstar rails are normally the ones people modify to fit.
You can go manual or automatic. The easiest option is to just pull the 4R70W or T5 that came with the engine.
Throttle Cable -
Unsure if Mustang cable is long enough or will interface with the pedal correctly.
Liquid line should work. Custom hoses needed for discharge and suction
Pressure hose might work.
Coolant Hoses -
SN95 radiator has larger inlet/outlets than Fox. Water pump inlet and thermostat outlet are same for SN95/Fox. Upper radiator hose is the same length for SN95/Fox, might fit... Lower hose is 4" longer. Frankenhose may be required. Heater core inlet hose may/may not fit
Microcontroller required to convert injector pulses, duty cycle to pulse-train equivalent to DOL. Use GUFB
I'm sure I have missed several important items, but this is a draft to be built upon.
I have focused on the 3.8, but you can swap in a 4.2 (or put 4.2 internals in a 3. too. The 3.8/4.2 heads are the same, the main external difference is in the size of the upper intake. The truck intakes are much taller, as seen below (L-R, 01+ Mustang intake, 4.2L intake, 99-00 Mustang intake)
A few people have swapped in Windstar intakes, but those require 4" cowl hoods on SN95s. The following is a '96-'98 intake.
The Windstar intake is actually the best power-wise. It makes 7 more horsepower and 25 more ft-lb of torque than a Mustang, and the Windstar has a more restrictive exhaust. This is due to the increased height of the intake. Also, as you can tell, the intake is plastic.
I finally got done putting the Tbird back together, which entailed a new rack and pump. The new pump whines like a banshee...and after driving it around town for a bit, the lines are too hot to grasp. I've bled the pump, but it made no difference.
Does a pump break in, or is this reman. Motorcraft pump a piece of junk right out of the box?