I've been doing a lot of research and found some good information on the differences in the 3.8's Here is a link: https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2001/09/rebuilding-the-ford-3-8l-engine/ I do find that while the heads might bolt on the old block there are enough differences that I beileve the only way would be to use the newer style block that is setup for the balance shaft and the roller cam shaft. That being said I'll just have to hunt down a good bottom end. I have purchased a complete harness and Ecu from an 03 mustang 3.8l. I do wonder if this will work with the 87 trans?
I've got an all stock 87 T-brid 3.8 CFI last year I put new timing chain on it and rebuilt the CFI unit. The car runs much better now. Recently My son Purchased a 03 mustang 3.8 that needs a new engine. We are in the process of an engine swap. I will have a complete 03 3.8 to play with. Currently it runs but has a very bad shake to it and has broken a piece of the oil pan. I wonder if the heads from the 03 would bolt onto the 8.7 bottom end so I could use the newer style EFi setup. Yes I know I would need the harness and ECU to make it run. Just thinking of a way to get more power in the 87 3.8 with parts I will have on hand.
Not saying I like it but that front end makes me think they slapped a Merc capri front end on it. I do think they could make it look better. No it is not a Missouri plate looking more like one from Illinois. But everyone is aloud to make what they like. So if that is what that person likes who am I to say it SUX. LOL
Well I'm one for Yes it works. I will tell you to have the place you get it form order in Many of them. Then look them all over, if your lucky you'll find a aluminum unit. I'm currently running the lincoln MC on my factory 84 T/c booster. With the factory brakes all around. Much improvement over the stock T/c unit. Brakes are much better Way less mussy. I do plan on upgrading to the lincoln mark/Svo rotors when cash flow allows . I've got the spindles for it in the shop.
Make sure to check your exhaust flow. Sounds a lot like what I had when I had a plugged up cat on my 84 turbo couple. The more gas you give it the more it wants to dog out and shake. Idled great with some skipping and such. So it would be worth a shot to look into that. Mine got plugged after it was only 2 years old. After loosing a cam follower and it running SUPER black exhaust I guess it got plugged up. It did sit for about 6mo's while I was getting parts and machine work done and paid for. So when I put it all back together it would start and run and skip and such then take it out DOG city. So after countless hour of going over things and finding nothing a buddy of mine was looking it over and thought the cat was plugged we dropped the down pipe" loosened the nuts to make a gap for exhaust to escape" and took it on a run. Wow it was way better 3days later got a new cat installed. I looked thought the old one while pointing one end at the sun I could only see 3-4 holes that were open. HTH
I've had some of these issues before. Sounds nothing out of the norm. It is best to get things inside the tranny lined up before you try to put it into reverse or into 1st at times. So before you go to put it into reverse or even 1st work it though the other gears 2nd-4th this will get all the gears lined up. I know it sounds weird but in many T-5 cars and such this has always done it for me.
hope this helps Stuckman
P.S. also I remember that they made a upgraded shift fork/throw out bearing plate as some people that slam on the clutch would bend them. Then casuing the clutch not to fully disengauge so they could shift properly. Just another thought to throw in the idea pile.
Yes the place I used t mix paint at did this also. I will add that the price was very steep. It was like $15-$20 a can depending on color. Then the paint that we mixed to put into a can is that same paint we used to make touch up paint. Not the worst paint but not the greatest either. I tell you will save yourself hassle if you even go with a harbor freight $20 gun to get into it. You get so much more paint for your dollars. Depending on what you buy depends on how you mix it but when you by a quart of paint you end up with much more than a quart by the time you reduce it down. I used to sell 2qts when people wanted to paint the whole car/truck once they mixed it with the required 2qt of reducer and additives they have just over a gallon.
Thanks for the input Tom. I had changed swapped in another switch because I have Spares, had the same problem with 2 different switches before I got it narrowed down to the pigtail. Which like the switches I have spares. I dug into this some more last night and just like I had thought the little terminals inside had loosened up over time. The car is 25yrs old. So I pulled the terminals out gave them a gentle squeeze and slide them back into the plug. Tested in the drive way with car running A/c running and me wiggling and shaking that pigtail and it doesn't kick it off. So figure this is problem solved.
I do believe I got this lined out today. Was heading to help a buddy figure out his no starting van and on the way there the A/c cut out. So I pulled over and popped the hood. Went and wiggled the low pressure switch plug and as I was wiggling the A/c compressor was kicking on and off. Not wanting to tear into it on the side of the road I just pushed both pin in the switch away from each other and plugged it back in haven't had it kick off since. plan on digging in and getting the pigtail lined out tomorrow.
Those look like a nice connection. I also haven't had any trouble out of that style setup. The only thing better that I have found are the same lead type but they have four bolts to hold them together. Now they make some that have a steel top plate but they also make them with a thick lead top plate those are the ones that I like the most. I due believe they call them HD or mil-spec something like that. I also like the soldering of the copper lugs nice neat clean and yes it takes a torch. I buy plain cooper lugs and use strips of solder I slide in the lug with the wire. Give them a nice pinch with the vice and a torx bit to press in just the center, then heat with torch and when cool cover with heat shrink.
Iv'e had good luck the Hayden brand fan controllers. Make sure you wire in relays so you don't burn up the fan controller. Also you asked for the best thermostat. I would have to say one with a little bubbler hole or a fail safe. Or even buy the standard unit and drill a small hole in the flat area. Also unless your running a tuner or chip I would stick with the stock temp stat.