I come to the site i look at new notifications..... ok ,, i get it now.. the notifications is saying people have comments to a thead of mine. Its a useless feature if you ask me... however....
i go to my thread i read the comments and move on.
i keep on seeing new notifications pertaining to a thread i already viewed.
it appears this new board is set up where you have to manually acknowledge each individual notification by not going to the thread but you must go to a different tab called notifications to make it stop.
seems features like this are likely tied to facebook or something.....?
if we we are expected tolerate the fact that 66.6% of all information from nearly a 1/4 of a century and over 2 thousand years of combined knowledge become missing,, the moving parts we have now should not be in error to this level of simplicity. If i read a thread, my notifications should "self manage",, thats why we went to all this new social media platform,, right..? its supposed to be superior to everything else.
What we have now is a board with words... and no supporting substance.
I went through 4 MSD pro billet distributors from Orielly all cutting out above 2000 rpm before I finally bought one from american muscle and its been in the car for 2 years now with no problems, since then I've always carried a spare "known good" distributor in the trunk just in case.
I find the content of your message compelling... your exact description is the very symptom we had. Couple that symptom with the visual indication of our tach dropping to zero during the cutting out event. We stumbled on a stang thread stating a similar situation but the gent doing the thread mentioned he got fixed only after "4 dist's later and finally" he got his up and running which he later pointed to the box store as the source of all his headaches.
we all should be building a contingency plan for future TFI failures.
the issue is this..... -if the car is started, and gas is applied to around 2 to 3 k rpm,, the engine will cut out and sputter. -if we add headlamps,,, this will increase "amplify",, not "cause" the issue. I say this because after several senerios of testing, this has become a fact. ******as a result of failing, the cause is spark becomes absent. ******we see this by having a test light on the coil green wire to chassis or across the coil to observe a strobe. ******the strobe is broken up or blinks some or not at all at around 2 or 3 k rpm. it fails with or without headlamps. we lose spark and as a result lose tach signal. yesterday after new alt (BRAND NEW), was installed and we failed again, we moved on to this..... -kept headlamp sw disconnected, -disconnected multifunction sw -retested and car still fails.
today we will..... disconnect every single item in the car that we can to get to by fuse or connector till the situation is the car has only what it needs to start and run. if problem is the same,, we may just make an assumption that .............. -the EEC is failing to "manage the engine" -the maf is bad ~although when we test it with our meter it seems to be doing fine.
replaced TFI,,, with no codes pointing to anything spark, lean , rich , pip etc,,,,, the TFI gave us continuous good running performance at idle for over an hour.
Step on the gas and all is well.
turn on the headlamps and step on the gas...... car starts to kick back and buck.
turn of headlamps undo spout conn restart car all is well add headlamps and car begins to buck and kick back on us. turn off car and think ................................................................... remove headlamp sw start car with spout plugged in paperclip jumper the headlamps to "ON" car buck and kicks back on us... so............
I conclude thus far that the action of adding headlamps may perhaps be the cause of what i believe is the idea that this car is "EATING" TFI's. We are on our 3rd dizzy since march... meaning we either A- thought the box store dizzy was a out of the box failure or b- the car ate the ign module fairly quickly.
I believe we have rolled the clock back to about two weeks ago when the symptom was "car cuts out and dies randomly" although in my post 1 i implied early on that the addition of headlamps and the visual of loss of Tach seemed to be the only common denominators.
so... we are doing a test drive today with no headlamps to confirm that if no lamps are picked, we will find out if the car runs as it should. IF YES- we move over to looking at the possibility of the headlamps and the factory equipped auto-lamp ckts are not conflicting each other.
I do have some one piece f interesting news............ while the car was running during its 1 1/2 hour time frame,, mason took amp clamp readings on either side of the battery. on the hot cable input he had 3amps, on the ground side he had 8 amps. i find this odd personally. its as though there could be another active circuit that is back feeding chassis ground. i told mason to install a blocking diode between battery neg post and battery negative ground cable in the correct direction so that the battery can see chassis but anything on chassis cant see battery neg.,,, that might not be a good idea but i am trying to see if we can find out whats up with 8amps on the ground side.
the alt total amps during the above i describe was about 14amps.