Finally getting started on the 1984 bird collecting dust in my garage.
I believe the car was towed at one point using the radiator support and its chewed up / bent in the middle. Do you know if a bolt/weld in aftermarket radiator support for a same year mustang is the same dimensions?
Been away for awhile, glad to be back. Here is the setup I tried to use 86' 2.3L TC block, 86' TC manual bell housing, and 88 TC manual 5 speed transmission.
The issue I had was by the time the throw out bearing was contacting the clutch fingers there was barely any travel left. There seems to be a lot of "slop" or dead space in the movement of the clutch fork. I'm worried that I will not have enough movement to properly disengage the clutch.
Do you have any ideas? I cant imagine that using the 5 speed trans from the newer car would make a difference. The 86' and older were borg warner and the 87' and 88's were world class trans? Correct me if I'm wrong.
If I'm making an obvious mistake using incompatible parts please let me know.
When you replace the clutches are there any special measurments or tools you need? Is there a link to purchase this with instructions? How much would you estimate a reputible shop would charge to rebuild the rear? Im fairly mechanically inclined, just not very good with electricity, so I would think about trying this myself if the directions are fairly easy to follow.
The rear in my car is starting to only spin one tire. My question to you guys would be is this something I could remedy myself? Is there a better alternative for the 8.8 rear end then going with the stock limited slip? Kinda sad when you hit it and only leave one mark. The mileage on the rear end is about 125k miles. I have a rear end from an 88 TC I could swap in that I know the limited slip is still working in but I would rather not rob that for parts and risk not putting it back together correctly.
Since my car was swapped im not sure its a good idea to use as an example for others. Like I said the wiring was different than I expected to find for an 87. On a side note I did drive the car about 150 miles sunday and it never gave me any issue. I still have to swap to the smaller pulley when it arrives, then I will see how the car reacts with all the accessories on at idle. It felt really good to be behind the wheel again, hear the motor, and pick my own gears!
I have one from an 88 TC that is just sitting in my garage. I only drove the car 25 miles home with a bad turbo, but it seemed to drive just fine. Its been bolted up to a motor with a brand new clutch for 4 years now and that project fell on the back burner. The mileage was about 100k. I parted the car it came out of because it was a rust bucket. If youre interested let me know and I will separate and sell. I think its time to let that 2.3 turbo motor go too. Rebuilt head stock bottom end with 90k miles. Im located in SE WI. Shoot me a PM if youre interested, I may not remember to check back.
Ok, my wiring was a bit different than I expected to see. I didnt have a white/black at all. I ended up running a new wire from the post on the alt to the positive battery post, and used the green and yellow wires on the D plug to head back to the car. Then I snipped the S wire, which was solid black and jumped that over to the stator. I checked everything over and started the car. Its still a bit weak at idle but I think that is because the pulley on the new alt is noticeably bigger. Ill prob swap that out to a smaller pulley. Otherwise all was well I could drive the car with the lights and electric fans on without the voltage dropping. The other thing I need to do is wire in a 125 A fuse between the alt and battery. If I missed something let me know.
I know everyone is going to say go 3G and I wouldnt mind going that route, but I have not found a good write up on the swap. Is there someone here would wouldnt mind walking me through it, or a thread that explains the process? BTW I appreciate the help guys.
You hit the nail on the head softtouch. I did have a chance to work on the car again today. I checked all my grounds and everything came up good. I started turning off things and saw that with nothing on I had right around 14 volts. Since the car has electric fans Im going to need a higher amp alternator. Right now the car is using a 75 amp and the highest advanced or autozone can get me is an 80 amp. Will that be enough to compensate? I have been searching online for a higher output replacement but they all seem to be single wire alternators? Is there a bolt on and go 100 or better amp alternator? BTW The car has an 88 mustang 5.0 if that makes a difference.
Oh and to answer your question yes the engine will run. The problem is that with too many accesories on it draws that battery down and will slowly kill the car. Id like to see over 13 at idle, however Im barely over 12 most of the time unless you increase the engine RPM.
Those are both good questions. Tom, I will report back with numbers next time I am near the car again. Hopefully that will be tomorrow. Did the 5L mustangs ground to the motor mounts? The negative cable seems to run to the center of the engine and then down toward the ground so Ill have to find out where that is going. The only thing that throws me off is that this problem started right after swapping the front clips.... but all I have changed is the headlight wiring. Wouldnt it be a coincidence if it was unrelated to the swap.
Even if I unplug the headlamp harness connector underneath the battery tray the car still shows very low voltage. The two ground wires that go to the core support are grounded correctly, could it be Im having a grounding issue somewhere else on the car. There was a large black wire coming from the 86 harness that changes to a large yellow wire (the splice doesnt look factory) that I connected to the ground that go to the inner fender wall right next to the started solenoid. I didnt see anything from the 87 harness that would compare to it. Im no electrical guru so I hope I have not bitten off more than I can chew. The annoying thing is the headlights (minus the brights) blinkers, and corner lights all work right. That leads me to believe the harnesses have been mated from the 87 and 86 correctly.
No modifications inside the car. I went back to work on it again tonight. I had the alternator and the battery tested and both tested just fine. However, the car is still showing around 12.8 volts at idle. When you jump the RPM up it will go to a little over 13. The highbeam indicator on the dash is on all the time and when I turn the highbeams on and off the outside lights get softer/brighter. The wiring from the cars 87 harness matched up perfectly with the colors from the 86 harness so Im thinking everything should be wired correctly. The only issue Im having is the very low voltage and the highbeams not working correctly. Im afraid to drive the car more than around the block as the voltage has dropped so low it has killed the car and not been able to restart without a jump.