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Messages - Aerocoupe
Again, I am still curious if the Birds and Cats have the interconnect between the dash harness and the ECU harness.
I am only going down this rabbit hole as my '93 Coupe needs the ECU harness, injector harness, O2 harness and AC compressor harness. All of them I bought used when I converted the car from a 4 cylinder and they are not in the best shape.
86 - non mass air, non air bag, and dash harness connection is specific to this year
87 to 88 - non mass air (except California cars), non air bag, and dash harness connection is specific to these years
89 - mass air, non air bag, and dash harness connection is specific to this year
90 - mass air, air bag, and dash harness connection is specific to this year
91 to 92.5 - mass air, air bag, dash harness connection is specific to these years (two plugs), and there is one relay under the MAF and one under the driver seat (fuel pump)
92.5 to 93 - mass air, air bag, dash harness connection is specific to these years (one plug), and there are two relays under the MAF (fuel relay moved)
That was a lot of crap most here could car less about but I have always wondered what the difference is in the V8 injected Birds and Cats. Again, I am pretty sure that the 86-88 V8 are injected and they are all speed density but do these cars also have a dash harness connector(s) just under the brake booster and by the EEC test ports? Were any of the late 85 V8 cars injected?
If you have one install a vacuum gauge in the line at the booster, start the engine and check the available vacuum. Typically you need around 17-22” of vacuum for the booster (and everything else in the car) to work right. I think you can borrow a gauge from the parts stores if need be.
The other thing I have seen is plumbing the MC incorrectly. Typically the primary port is the one closest to the booster and should be plumbed to the front brakes. This is due to the primary moving more fluid than the secondary which the larger front brakes need. With a proper functioning MC this could cause the front brakes to not receive the volume or pressure necessary to work 100%.
The only way I know a booster can cause a mushy pedal is for the booster rod not being properly adjusted but it sounds like you have that covered. Booster is just a multiplier for manual brakes. To get the power you would need from a manual brake setup you would have to change the pedal ratio i.e. lever arm principle.
The use of the Fox booster with the '94 Cobra MC is not a good choice. The Fox booster cannot deliver enough boost to compensate for the additional pressure it takes to move the 15/16" bore '94 Cobra MC. The 93 Cobra MC is a 1" bore, the '95 GT MC is 1-1/16" bore, and a '93 GT MC is 21mm (between 13/16" and 27/64"). As far as I know the 83-88 Birds and Cougars (other than the 87-88 turbo cars) came with a 21mm MC as well. So with all of that you can see that a stock fox booster was meant to be coupled to a 21mm bore MC. The 15/16" bore MC is roughtly 13.4% larger in area, the 1" bore MC is roughly 21% larger in area, and the 1-1/16" bore MC is roughly 46.3% larger in area than the stock 21mm unit. So with that I would suggest not mixing and matching but either run a Cobra MC with a Cobra booster or SN95 GT/V6 Booster with SN95 GT/V6 MC. The 93 Cobra MC will work just fine with the SN95 GT/V6 booster as many have gone this route so they did not have to change the brake line fittings being the 93' Cobra MC is SAE threads and the SN95 GT/V6 MC is metric.
So with the larger area on the MC bores you can see that they will move more fluid which the larger front Cobra calipers require. This is also true if you are going from rear drum brakes to calipers. And the larger area also equals more pedal pressure because you are not changing the pedal ratio hence the need for more boost.
Note - The reason the '93 Cobra runs a 1" MC is the calipers are not the same as the 94+ Cobras. I know the rears are the Turbo Coupe calipers and the fronts are the same as the GT cars with the exception of the rotors having a taller hat which I believe was done to use an 8.5" wide wheel. The 93 Cobra R uses the same exact brakes as the 94-95 Cobra.
If you use an SN95 booster you will have to slot the holes on the firewall or get a reman 93 Cobra booster as the mounting studs on it were meant to fit the existing firewall holes. Massaging the driver side strut tower may be required with the 93 Cobra Booster (seems to be hit and miss) but the SN95 booster will most definitely require it and it can be a bitch with the motor in the car.
So back to your problem. How did you run the brake lines from your MC to the brake calipers if you no longer have the stock combo valve? I will wait to go any further until I understand what you did here.
I used the '95 brake booster out of the car and got a reman MC for a 95GT which has a 15/16 bore. I gutted the stock Fox combination valve (proportioning / shuttle) on the proportioning side and installed a Wilwood manual proportioning valve to the rear brakes. Screwing the adjusting knob all the way in (clockwise) produces zero reduction in pressure. I then backed it out four full turns based on previous experience with other Foxbody Mustangs. Installed the SN95 spindles, dust shields, new hubs, turned rotors, remaned '99 GT twin piston calipers, new pads, and the flexible lines to the front calipers were swapped to Maximum Motorsport SS braided lines.
The body hard line to rear end line and the hard lines to rear calipers were also swapped out to SS braided lines from Maximum Motorsports. I pulled the stock Fox axles and all the Fox drum brake stuff and into the metal scrap bin they went along with all of the stock Fox front brake parts. Installed the SN95 axle brackets, dust shields, axles, caliper brackets, turned rotors, calipers, new pads and connected the MM SS braided lines.
Adjusted the booster brake rod so that it was almost touching the MC plunger and I mean almost. I have a brake booster rod gauge that I use and suggest you buy one.
Then it was a lot of work plumbing in the ABS and wiring the sensors so we will skip that but it does work and anyone that says they can manually modulate the brakes better is full of crap.
Next I bled the system with a power bleeder. Again, get one and just be done with it. They are mandatory on ABS systems and should be on non-ABS systems as gone are the days of pumping the brake pedal.
Dropped it on the ground and about choked myself with the seat belt the first time I hit the brakes.
Note - My Coupe was a 4 cylinder car converted to a V-8 car. I used an 8.8 out of an '87 GT Mustang and then sourced the body hard line and bracket for the body hard line to rear end soft line off of a salvage yard car.
Go look at a 331 or 347 rotating assembly that your stock flex plate or fly wheel will bolt to and tell me how much you are saving by NOT ??? going with a striker short block.
Sure it will not perform like it would with a better cam and induction system but you can always put a cam in it now for the better induction and it will run better than a 0.030” over 302. Save yourself the headache and just stroke it now with a game plan to upgrade the induction later. I did it with my 93 Coupe and do not regret it.
Family is good and healthy which is great and hope everyone else here is doing well.