I have the complete wiring diagrams for my '83 that look like this:
If you would like the whole set I can email them to you and then you could host them for the rest of the folks here. I did pay for these back in 1998 when I removed the CFI and EEC from the car and went carbed. I still have the hard copies that were sent to me and as far as I know these are super accurate.
For the internals (main, rod, head, & rocker arm) would only use ARP. Stud the mains and the heads. People tell me that they do not want to stud the heads as it does not allow for removal in the car. All you have to do is use two regular (grade 5) nuts for jam nuts and then remove each stud like a bolt. I also used ARP on the timing gear to cam and the cam plate to block.
One externals I used ARP kits for the timing chain cover & water pump and on the oil pan as well as an ARP bolt on the harmonic balancer to crank. For the lower intake on my Coupe (injected) and intake manifold on the Bird (carbed) I used the same coarse threaded by fine threaded studs that I found at O'Riellys. For the bolting on the upper intake I used studs that I ordered from McMaster/Carr. I also have stainless steel all-thread studs that you install with an allen key for the valve covers. All of the accessory brackets on the front of the motor are the stock Ford fasteners.
So I do not have the part numbers for the majority of the EEC's but I have never had to use anything but the ones listed to find what I needed. I would stay away from the California EEC's unless you have a California car as the rumor is they are less aggressive in tuning due to the stricter emission requirements. Also, the three or four digits in large letters on the EEC's label are referred to as "catch codes".
So let me back up here. I did not realize that you are dealing with an '84 car here so you have what I had in my '83 which is a low pressure in tank pump and an external inline high pressure booster pump if it is still factory (should have paid more attention to your first couple of posts). If I remember correctly the intank pump is good for somewherw around 30 gph or 115 lph so yeah your motor is starving to death. You can remove the intake pickup and try and make a pickup for a carb style externally mounted pump but they do not like to draw fuel from a tank rather they like it to flow to the inlet side of the tank i.e. a sump in the bottom of the tank. I am pretty sure you know all that already though.
If you want to clean up the intake try using a citrus based degreaser and just let it soak in it for a day or two. If that doesn't get it then try something like Citristrip and brush it on and let it sit for a couple days. This will take it down to raw aluminum so you will want to use a good degreaser, prime and then paint. Another option is if the intake runners are pretty clean on the inside take it to a powder coater and let them media blast it and powder coat it. So its elbow grease, your time, and a little money or drop it off and pay for it.
As for the Walbro pump you can get them just about anywhere but there are issues with low quality copy cats. I would suggest you get one from a reputable dealer like LMR, Summitt or Jegs to name a couple. Get one with the install kit which will have the wiring pigtail, new hose, and sock filter.
Sounds like its time to switch to a T-5 and toss those AOD boat anchor, horse power robbing, no gear shifting fun, pile of complicated crap in the scrap yard.
Seriously though, how many miles does the OP have on the AOD? If the TV cable is in working order then it could be the direct clutch pack or the direct input shaft is broken. A lot of guys in the past have gone to SilverFox (http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/) for help so I would start there. If you want to stay automatic then my suggestion would be to move to a 4R70W and a controller like Baumann Controls / US Shift (https://www.usshift.com/usq4.shtml). Swapping over to a T-5 is not as easy as it used to be as they are just not that plentiful as they used to be.