Our cars and pretty much every FoMoCo product that had illuminated sun visors had a very basic one wire feed for power and grounded to the frame through the metal mount and screws up until the 90's at some point where they went to a 2 wire setup and the mount material was switched over to plastic.
Many moons ago I found a set of early 90s Explorer dual illuminated sunvisors that were a direct swap. No cutting, no splicing.
Someone put a terrific rip in the passenger one on my car a few months ago.
I picked up a set of 03-04 Marauder Illuminated dual sun visors.... The mount holes for the TWO of the screws line up. I'll have to drill for the 3rd. Apparently they moved one of the holes with the metal to plastic mount switch..... No biggie.
Another thing. The pigtail for the newer style visors is as I mentioned; TWO wires.... I'm ASSUMING one is ground and one is power It gets better. The driver side has 2 black wires, no markings. Passenger side has a green with red striped wire and a black with orange striped wire....
I TRIED feeding power to one wire and grounding the other on the roof. Blew the fuse for the circuit.... Someone I know suggested trying to test it direct to the battery. No dice..... Also a theory..... Both wires somehow get power and the ground is the metal nub the wires come through.....
If anyone actually KNOWS I'd be grateful. I have the sun visors installed and the wires taped so that can fish them back out. It's not as if it's an absolute necessity for me to have the visors illuminate, but it would be nice. I mean the car came that way so....
would it make a difference that I can still manually adjust the speed?
Ummmm, I dunno I'd suspect the controller I mentioned is OK if manual adj works...
May want to check EATC temp sensor mounted at heater core hose connector... It prevents blower from operating on automatic when engine is cold, then goes to full on once temp starts to rise... It's one of the things that pissed me off about the EATC system, as air was never warm enough when high speed activated(and part of reason why I specifically sought out my TC with a manual HVAC system)... Then you are talking about A/C, so again I dunno...
BTW there is also a cabin ambient temp sensor that plays a large roll in operation, it's mounted in dash above the Graphic EQ/storage well...
I'm sorry..... WHAT? A cabin temp sensor?!!!!?????
I never knew about this let alone noticed it when I've been messing about in that area.... Someone please educate me on it.
Looking for some things..... The car that I want said items for is a 1987 Cougar 5.0 with FULL DIGITAL DASH
-- Fuel injection harness; [COLOR="#FF0000"]with the correct connector for the temp sender for the digital dash on the driver side[/COLOR] -- Clean, rip free, and tear free trunk weatherstripping. -- Factory Premium Sound AM/FM/Cassette radio.
It's been a while. Detailed the heck out of the car Sunday. Of course the rain came because you know, my roof is supposed to get done and I need good weather. Typical. Car still looks good though. Plans for when the weather FINALLY breaks here (because it's still in the 40's most nights with a few barely above freezing) are to redo a couple of problem spots and totally sort out the wiring harness on the driver side of the engine bay. No issues, but I really want to tuck it and make it a bit more organized. The factory was lacking in that regard.
1st is out of a 1987 Cougar 2nd is from a 1989 LSC.
Both had auto lamp and auto dim.
The switches APPEAR identical other than the part #....
1st one has a broken rheostat. It's from a friend's car. The plastic tab one of the contacts was mounted broke. Just want to make sure they are in fact compatible as I wanna give him the second if he can use it. It'll save him about $70....Maybe more.
The Optima red top that had resided in my Cougar for the past year and a half has been draining quickly. Like from full down to 4.5 volts inside of 5 days quickly. Nothing was left on. I gave in and bought a new battery. The Optima itself WAS 3 years old so I figured I'd buy one and check the car to make sure this battery won't be toasted by some electrical problem.
There's. Under 7 milliamps on a current draw test with a new battery.
It's charging fine. The alternator in the car tested with the new battery at 14.6 volts @ idle.
For the hell of it, I hooked up my charger to the Optima. I let it sit for 7 hours inside my house and the charge went to 12.4 volts. 2 hours later it was down @ 12.1..... That was Thursday night...... I just checked it again.....12.06.....
I'm tempted to charge it fully (the charger even stated it wasn't done, but I had to go somewhere) and see what happens.... Maybe it's NOT dead. Perhaps it just sat too long too many times? I typically only start the car about once every 2-3 weeks from October until the end of March/beginning of April. There was a 6 week long stretch this year where I didn't turn it over. Since November it's been on the charger about 5 times......Other than the last time I usually just hooked it up for about an hour to get the car started. Typically the voltage was in the high 10' or low 11 range though. NOT 4.5......
Hadn't logged in to my Photobucket forever. This morning I was looking for a technical photo only to discover my entire album on that site has apparently vanished. Luckily all my high end photos are backed up, but I had some technical car related photos/graphs/etc. that I had amassed there that I think are just there now as the only other place they would be is on an older laptop that has a corrupt hard drive.....
Didn't wanna put this on Facebook. Hell, haven't even told anyone I hang out with on the regular who lives close by.
Tomorrow we have to put the dog down. She had surgery to remove a mast cell tumor on her back about 10 days ago. It had shown up out of nowhere in late September and became really aggressive after Thanksgiving. She was fine after surgery for the first few days. Eating. Jumping around..... About 3 days ago she stopped eating and drinking. She has begun to throw up..... I'm fairly certain that one of the medications they gave us for her is causing an allergic reaction (dry patches on forehead and inside her ears, NEVER HAD THIS BEFORE). We stopped them all yesterday, took her cone off, and have been doing what we can to make her comfortable. he can't stand without enormous effort and was walking fine the other day.
I know if they recommend another procedure, she won't make it. I've seen enough animals at their end to know this.
Still, it feels rotten, like I've failed her..... Just wanted to vent.
I've seen a lot of threads on here concerning idle issues as of late. While some will invariably be electrical and/or faulty component related; there are plenty of times where the ol' vacuum gauge will help you immensely. I've noticed in my area that as car electronics become more advanced; the amount of new drivers who can use a vacuum gauge diminishes....
If you fall into the category I just mentioned; please take the time to familiarize yourself with the following links. They may save you time and money.
Well, I finally went and did it. The Mustang now sports a 4000 RPM stall Pro Torque Triple disc torque converter and a Level 10 hardened input shaft. The car is going in to the dyno tuner to remap the curves for the shift points sometime soon. Until then she's gonna be packed away in the garage awaiting a few other supporting modifications to keep the heat down.
Step 1: Fr500s Radiator Ford Racing part # M-8005-MGT
Step 2: 2013-14 GT500 Fan assembly Ford Racing part # M-8C607-MSVT
Step 3: Install larger transmission cooler.Problem is which one. I have a few options in mind.
The S197 chassis cars do not have a transmission cooler built into their radiators. Part # 5R3Z-7A095-A. They have an all separate unit behind the A/C condenser and in front of the radiator. It's the cream in the Oreo if you will..... Pic for reference:
It has 9 rows, is a stacked plate design and is perfectly adequate in stock applications..... I have a blower......and 4000 rpm stall speed..... So no mas for this.
[INDENT]2011-2014 Mustang OEM trans cooler. Ford part # BR3Z-7A095-B. This is a direct swap. 15 rows as opposed to the stock 9. Yay, better cooling and OEM parts! Problem is the fact that I don't know if it will be enough..... I cannot find any info on BTU rating or cooling capacity. [/INDENT]
[INDENT]Tru Cool LPD 47391. Similar in size to the 11-14 Mustang piece with a SUPPOSED 45,000 BTU/40,000 lb GVWR. Would take some fabrication to make it mount nicely and appear factory.[/INDENT]
[INDENT]2005-2007 F-250 Super Duty 26 row cooler. Part # 5C3Z-7A095-CA. TWENTY. SIX. ROWS. This thing should be able to cool off a Rhinoceros in the pit of Hades.... This is a very popular upgrade for the 7.3 diesel guys. Problem: WILL IT FIT?????? Obviously I'd have to cut/file/sand the bottom mounting tabs off as well as pop the rivets on the side extensions as shown. After that, some brainstorming would occur on how to mount it; that is if it'll fit!!!! Height and thickness aren't the issue. It's width. I cannot find any info on the width of the unit itself minus the tabs. If it's under 25 inches, I'm golden. It's the no-brainer.[/INDENT]
So, anybody have a 2005-2007 F-250 they can measure the trans cooler on for me????? :hick: