I come to the site i look at new notifications..... ok ,, i get it now.. the notifications is saying people have comments to a thead of mine. Its a useless feature if you ask me... however....
i go to my thread i read the comments and move on.
i keep on seeing new notifications pertaining to a thread i already viewed.
it appears this new board is set up where you have to manually acknowledge each individual notification by not going to the thread but you must go to a different tab called notifications to make it stop.
seems features like this are likely tied to facebook or something.....?
if we we are expected tolerate the fact that 66.6% of all information from nearly a 1/4 of a century and over 2 thousand years of combined knowledge become missing,, the moving parts we have now should not be in error to this level of simplicity. If i read a thread, my notifications should "self manage",, thats why we went to all this new social media platform,, right..? its supposed to be superior to everything else.
What we have now is a board with words... and no supporting substance.
88tbird Maf, A9P 306, 21lb inj, GT40 heads, Professional products Upper & lower. car has hi/low beam mod where when the hi beams are seleted the low beams remain on. Car runs a lot of led conversion lighting in either bulbs or led lighting strips along the bottoms of the doors... which are off when the doors are closed.
Issue-- while at speed, the engine will shut down for a time frame of less than a second to a max of a couple seconds then recover. This situation is more re-occurring or "more pronounced" during cooler days and / or during the time frame of the first t-stat cooling exchange.
Visual / feel symptoms-- The tachometer drops to zero rpm, all other gauges remain online and within normal visual expectations. The symptom can be "forced to happen" if extra heavy loads are added to the alternator such as hi-beams. This may be misleading because the key is still on so if the EEC shuts down, the coil will loose its ref ground yet other cluster items will still be powered "on" since the Alt is getting input signal and producing voltage because the belt is spinning. the overall misleading affect is that the Tach is the only thing that reacts during the event.
We are into researching what the issue is for nearly all of 2019. the car is a daily driver and is my son's car which with work and little time off, it limits progress but slowly we eliminate probable faults.................
Troubleshooting--- pulled codes,,,, we had .... 18 - gone now that tfi harness is fixed 91 & 95 - still remains
after codes are dumped, we proceed with cylinder balance test and passed.
We found that if with the most lightest of touch, if you moved the TFI harness, the symptom occurs............. >> purchased from LMR a TFI harness repair kit and retested. replacement of the above did not cure the issue.
Replaced Dizzy as a whole kit from one of the box stores...... did not fix the issue.
-did fuel pres test while driving and gauge taped to windshield.. pres was low"ish" during low RPM's and around high"ish" during high rpm's like 40 or so. -kept fuel pres tester connected while the car was off and parked, several hours later the pressure finally arrived at zero... like 7 hours or more.
we began to shotgun troubleshoot,, cause really we dont know here else to go other than REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP which has not been done yet.
we replaced the dizzy, dizzy harness, coil, plugs, wires, ECT, ACT, Alternator, Battery, Ign sw, i ign sw harness from LMR, O2 sensors, replaced EEC capacitors, EEC relay, added grounds to the engine bay, cleaned the MAF,
we are looking at replacing the EEC and the fuel pump next up.
I have recommended to Mason (my son the owner whom is out of state), to do the following ..... Pull every friggin fuse not required to make the car run and retest. Even if this means he has to drive with emergency flashers on as a safety step on public roads. If we are lucky enough to find the symptom is gone, this lets us insert fuses back into the car until the issue comes back which then tells us which ckt is a probable fault. if the symptom remains, it tells us what remaining ckts to focus on.
I think i asked this question nearly a decade ago,,, i cant remember the answer......
page 42- 3.8L start / IGN = near C403 there is a circuit ID #16 which is red/lt green. what purpose does this wire serve? page 43- 5.0L start / IGN = circuit ID #16 red/light green, what purpose does fuse link "P" serve?
in both instances what i am trying to understand is.... you have a jumper "wire" bypassing another "wire".??????
i bought one of those "heat powered" stove fans you simply set atop your wood stove,, the heat off the stove causes an isolated electronics part to generate power because of it. i know ,,, sounds like magic stuff in a bottle but read on,,, these things are real and im sure someone here will be getting a few for christmas.
inside of one use , i burned it up so i went on an exploration mission to determine what i had done wrong.
i had to learn about a product i had no knowledge of its existence.
the gizmo that converts heat into electricity is something call a Peltier effect. this tech is not that old and still kinda in its trial and error stages of engineering applications although you find them randomly on some high end cooling and de-humidification systems.
there are two types... TEC- thermal electric cooler
TEG- thermal electric generator
the TEC has a lower withstand point in deg F than a TEG.
they both actually do a somewhat similar job but are designed a smidge differently,, yet each has its own application. the tec has a lower output voltage as well so in my mind started to arrive at basic conclusions.
Come to find out the stove fan came equipped from the maker "Voda" with a TEC.
I took the bugger apart to understand what kind of electric motor drives the fan blade and discovered its a brush motor and it seemed to be ok with a 9v battery source, i did not put 12v on it figuring i was pressing my luck being i knew this motor design was never expecting to see any voltage higher than 5vdc when the TEC or TEG was on max.
Back pedal here a tad.. the TEC is 1/8'' thick by 1.5'' x 1.5'' device with a red and black wire hanging off it.
I researched out where i could find TEG's and there are mil-spec opitions, industrial options, then there are hobby options so i shot out an order to china for some cheapy renditions to tinker with... got a dozen of them on ebay for under 2$ ea.
I tossed out my defective one then installed 2 TEG in series thinking i would double my voltage potential which the results yielded a great operating fan.
these are very interesting units because all you have to do is have one side get warm while the other side stays at a different or ideally "lower temp by way of a mounted heat sync... if you do this the two wires will put out voltage and current proportional with the temperature difference the unit is experiencing. ~~ cool stuff eh???
here is a vid i did real quick......... i mispoke in the vid,, i think the TEG can go well over 200degF
this is a minerva tropic master 8 tube radio. i wanted a meter to give me a visual indication that i was exactly on a station so this was my solution. i used only the needle/pointer system out of a cheapy 9$ analog meter.
links here to vids of my testing out the theory and a final vid showing it in use.
EASTERN CATALYTIC 30243 (combo "Y" pipe and catalytic together **eliminates both "pre-cats" !!! good ! ** this part requires minor BFH mod to clear your transmission cross member. A few bashes after you gut it and its all good. **this part has excessively thick flanges, they are so thick that they barely accommodate your existing manifold stud length. **i had to run my bandsaw laterally on the passanger side flange to finally be able to install the two nuts, basically making them a tad "thinner". (normally) larger flanges are a good thing but not in this case. **this cat very easy to gut **header "Bell" shape matched perfect. **cat to intermediate mating are "BALL/Bell" and match perfect,, no gasket req'd. darn near a perfect match with small minor mods.
WALKER 43907 Pipe, intermediate **does not come with a flange,, so get one or reuse your old if you want. **the shape sorta "dips" "down" a tad lower than i like, you could manually tune it up a tad in he area of the longest radial. overall perfect match