Has anyone here mini tubbed their Bird or Cougar and if so did you use mini tubs for a Fox Mustang? I am considering this as it would be pretty awesome to see some 335's stuffed under my '83. I am not wanting to custom make them so it would be nice to just order a mini tube kit and only have to worry about removing the stock ones and trimming up the new tubs to fit.
This is waaaaaaay down the road but I am also considering this on my '93 Coupe so why not do that one first and then once I've got it figured out then do the Bird.
I think that is what you call it but I need one for an 83-88 Turbo Coupe so I can finish up my '83 as I never did do it correctly and I would like to as it will help with installing the shifter boot correctly. Here is a picture (curtesy of CougarSE) of what I am talking about:
The manual one is on top (the one I need) and the floor shift auto is on bottom.
So I have not really brought up my next project as the only thing I did was buy the '70 minus the power train and a slew of small stuff. I ditched the step side bed as I had decided long before I bought the truck it would be a SWB.
A little background on what I am shooting for chassis and power train wise: Crown Victoria front IFS swap into the truck (all of it including the sway bar) - 5" drop with the stock CV springs Fat Man Fabrications four link in the rear with the stock 9" housing QA-1 coil overs at all four corners Stock frame boxed where needed, custom trans cross member, and powder coated black of course 5.0 Coyote motor with 76mm Precision turbo and a Ford stand alone control pack (will have to be tuned) 6-speed 6R80 auto trans with a Baumann controller Existing stock width 9" housing with Torino large bearing ends, Moser axles, Explorer 8.8 disc brakes and the e-brake will function 9" third member with new trac-lok and 3.73 gears
So I have everything minus the power train but that is coming soon as I need to mock things up and get the chassis coated. I am hoping to have the chassis and power train done this year but this is by far the highest dollar build I have ever done so no rush. I am working through the body in my head but that will come later and trying to get all of this planned is pointless as I will change my mind. I have mulled over the chassis and power train for two years so I am settled on that. Was super relieved that the controllers for the six speed auto came out as I did not want a standard and who wants a four speed auto when a six is available?
So to date the 3rd member is built and all of the rear suspension and front suspension parts are bought. I have a buddy that can weld coke cans together so he will be doing all the metal melting as I decided not to learn on this one. We have been working on a time line to install the CV IFS and I think we are going to try it over the next couple of months. He works for Halliburton field services so his schedule is whacky but we think it will be a weekend to get it in there if I get the frame prepped. This means gutting the twin I-beam suspension removed which looks like it was riveted in by a 40's sky scraper metal worker...lots and lots of rivets.
So here we go, this thread will be updated but it will take a long time to finish (couple years???) so don't be surprised if its weeks between updates.
Is there a technical name for the side moldings on the fenders, doors, and rear quarters? I am looking for a used set of the moldings but only the ones on the fenders and rear quarters that butt up to the bumper covers.
We have tossed this topic around a bit on here and I wanted to put together a thread with aluminum driveshaft in the title as well as link some of the better threads on the subject within the body. I would also like for anyone (Vinnie, cough, cough) to post up what they used and where they had the DS fabricated or shortened (you don't lengthen one) and their results.
Driveshaft Shops Performance Driveline, Oklahoma City (Not finding them listed any longer, maybe Vinnie can update) Blumenthals Manufacturing, Oklahoma City Drive Train Specialists, Oklahoma City Drive Shafts, Inc., Tulsa, OK Inland Truck Parts, Tulsa, OK Action Machine, South Bend, IN
Anyhow one clear solution is the 1995 - 2010 police interceptor packaged Crown Victoria which comes factory with an aluminum drive shaft. These can be found at salvage yards for around $75 to $100. So you will need to supply the Crown Vic drive shaft, the input yolk to the trans in your car, the rear flat flange that bolts to the flange on the pinion of the rear end, and the drive shaft shop will provide the adapter u-joints. The Vic drive shaft will need to be shortened, the correct u-joints installed, and the assembly balanced so plan on another $120 or so for that work. So all in you might have $220 but that is cheaper than having one built. As Vinnie and a few others can attest to it takes care of the typical issues (mostly critical speed) with numerically higher rear end gears and steel drive shafts.
Feel free to tack on any other shops or other vehicles that have aluminum drive shafts that can be used to make one for our cars.
We have gone over a variety of brake swaps on this site from the anemic 10" front disc setup to the less anemic 11" front brakes and then adding on the TC rear disc brake setup and finally to adding the pinnacle of all Fox calipers the SVO/Lincoln 73mm front calipers. We pretty much know that going from the 10" to 11" front brakes and if we are running the stock drum brakes in the rear a MC (13/16" bore) swap is not necessary as the piston size on the calipers is the same at 60mm. Now when we up the game to the TC rear brakes (45mm caliper) with the 60 mm front calipers we need to upgrade to a different MC (1" bore). It is really hard to find the MC piston size anywhere due to the Hydro-boost system and the Teves II crap but remember the 1993 Cobra had the same braking system so that is where you find the MC bore diameter for that setup since the Cobra and TC shared the same brakes. Now when we upgrade to the SVO/Lincoln Mark VII 73mm front calipers a yet a different MC (1-1/8" bore) is once again needed.
This also applies when you install the SN95 V6/GT brakes on one of our cars. If you are installing the 94/95 GT or 94-98 V6 brakes they came factory with a 1-1/16" bore MC and the 99-2004 V6 cars came factory with a 1" bore MC. Just in case some folks do not know, in 1996 and up all of the GT and Cobra cars went to hydro-boost and in 2005 all Mustangs used this type of brake boost. I can tell you from experience that in all of the SN95 braking applications the all around best MC is one with a 1" bore and to utilize the 1993 Cobra booster as it has a Fox bolt pattern and takes very little modification to fit in our cars.
Okay, so with all of that said I see instances where we discuss swapping to another master cylinder due to some kind of brake swap scenario and we discuss soft pedals, hard pedals, lack of brake power, air in the lines, bench bleeding the MC, etc. The one thing I personally have never thought to bring up is the booster rod adjustment. This is pretty critical being that if the gap between it and the MC piston is excessively large you will have lots of pedal travel and not much braking power and if there is no gap or tool little gap the booster rod can pre-load the piston and cause the brakes to drag.
I have been taught how to work the math using a straight edge and a caliper (not the brake kind the measuring kind) to correctly adjust the booster push rod. 83TB and I were having this discussion and I was trying to figure out how to explain this without the hands on (that is how I learn the best) so I told him to let me research it and see if I could find it somewhere. I found it on Maximum Motorsports website on everyone of their master cylinder adapter kit installation instructions. You can go here and access them and the instructions on how to do this are in the first and second pages:
I know you can do a floor shift conversion on the 87-88 cars but can this be done on the 83-86 models? I am not wanting to do one but was curious what the options were for the 83-86 cars that were column shifted cars. I cannot remember for the life of me if the Turbo Coupes in these years were even offered with an auto or not.
Ordered a few parts over the last couple of weeks and got a discount code of 5% off from RockAuto and they said to share it so here it is:
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Does anyone know if the transmission tunnel hump from the 79-93 Fox Mustang will work for our cars when converting from a column shift automatic to a manual transmission car? I guess this would also be for converting over from a column shift car to a floor shift auto as well? The reason I am asking is that I just cut a hole in the tunnel on my '83 and called it good but I am thinking about reworking it as I think it would seal up better. LMR has the hump for the 79-93 Fox Mustangs new so if there is not a difference then I was thinking about going that route.
I need the entire door panels (left and right) for my 83 T-Bird as I used some Cougar panels back in the day and do not like the way the pull strap trim dips down in the back. I am pretty sure that the 83-84 T-Bird panels are the same where the 85 and up are different. The ones I am after are like this only I need them complete with the map pocket, armrest pad, etc. My car has manual windows and manual locks so they are the basic panels. Color wise I would prefer the charcoal or dark blue as the black interior paint covers those a lot better. And with that they will be covered with black materials so if there are small cuts, scrapes, or stains we can still talk some $$$.
I had this in my '07 and pulled all the stereo out before I traded it against my '14. I have the original box, instructions, test paperwork, and all the speaker wire connectors. $75 shipped to any of the lower 48 UPS or USPS ground.
I am looking at selling my 1993 Mustang Coupe and getting a 1971 Ford F150 SWB pickup that I can rebuild. My biggest concern is the body and trim items as this will be a resto mod so the driver train, suspension, electrical, etc will be scrapped. With that being said I only need a roller but if it is a complete truck I would consider for the right price. So this is more of "help me locate" kind of post than anything else as our forum is definitely devoted to a totally different kind of beast. My plans are a street truck with a 2013 F-150 drive train (5.0 Coyote and 6 speed auto) so I can properly haul my Bird when I want to. Anyhow, any help locating one would be appreciated as I have been looking online but the ones I am finding are either long beds (LWB), rusted out, or have been built to someone else's taste.
I took the Bird out for about a ten mile cruise and from the beginning the trans was super notchy going into any gear. Even for a Tremec TKO is was overly burdensome to get into gear. As the drive progressed it got to the point where I could not get it into gear at all. I called the house and had my father bring a jack and some tools to adjust the clutch cable as the car had zero clutch. After getting it up in the air I saw the nut on the cable backed almost all the way off and there was no jam nut. This was all my fault as I adjusted the cable but did not install the jam nut so I readjusted the cable. With only four miles to get back to the house I figured it would make it that far with what I was able to do on the side of the road and I could get it back up on the lift to install the jam nut. After a little more inspection I saw some wires that appeared to be broken clutch cable wires so I hoped that it would make it back to the shop where I had a spare clutch cable. Needless to say I got it back to the shop and just barely as I could only get it into 4th as again I had little to zero clutch. I will say that slipping the clutch at 4,500 rpm and leaving off two red lights in 4th was only possible with the 351W and the 4.10 gears. I got it up on the lift and found out what was going on, the clutch cable was toast. The wires that I saw were not the cable strands but the wires under the clutch cable sheathing. It was hard to determine what these wires were on the side of the road as I had previously wrapped the lower portion of the cable in header wrap. When I got it back to the house and and pulled the cable it was very apparent what was going on. Here is a picture of the old cable next to the new one:
I also purchased a firewall adjuster as I could never get one on the car with the stock T-Bird booster. With the SN95 booster it fits like one would expect:
I went ahead and pulled the X-Pipe, the collectors off the headers, and driver shaft to remove the transmission as it had a fluid leak. I suspected it was the seal between the tail housing and the case as that is where it was dripping. We pulled the two inspection plates on the top of the transmission and immediately found the leak. The forward inspection plate lost its seal at some point and the fluid was running on top of the trans and found its way to the tail housing to case joint and ran down the tranny so that is an easy fix. We looked over the internals and about the only issue we found was the 1-2 & 3-4 shift fork pads were boarder line on needing replacement so I ordered new ones as well as some new GM synchromesh fluid.
We are going to have to pull the tail housing off the tranny to change the shifter fork pads so I decided to look around to see if anyone made a 6 tooth speedo drive gear for the output shaft of a Tremec TKO. With the 4.10 gears and the stock 7 tooth drive gear in the TKO I am having to run a 23 tooth driven gear which is not optimal. I found one thread on the Corral where a guy had to modify a T-5 speedo drive gear to fit the larger diameter TKO output shaft which I thought to be sketchy at best. The T-5 speedo drive gear slides onto a splined section of the T-5 output shaft. This guy used a Dremel to make the ID of the T-5 speedo drive gear larger to fit the bigger output shaft of the TKO. The TKO has a 1-3/8" diameter output shaft and the ID of the original 7 tooth speedo drive gear is smooth. I did some serious searching on the net and I think that Tremec is simply using the speedo drive gear design from the old Ford Toploaders as they have 1-3/8" output shafts and the speedo drive gears have smooth ID's. I am not 100% sure but I went ahead and purchased a new 6 tooth drive gear for the Toploader and a 19 tooth driven gear for the VSS. I will know more about this in the next couple of days and will post up with some pictures.
Hopefully all of this will solve my shifting issues and I can get back to the custom instrument cluster I have been working on. When that it finished I will start a thread on that as the 83-84 cars are not as friendly so this mod as the 85-88 cars due to the really narrow instrument cluster.
I have the following 2-5/8" Auto Meter gauges out of my T-Bird for sale:
(1) Autometer Sport Comp 3521 (silver bezel black face) 0-100 psig oil pressure gauge (electric) with sender & fittings, light bulb assembly, and installation hardware - $30 (1) Autometer Sport Comp 3532 (silver bezel black face) 60 - 240 Degree F temperature gauge (electric) with sender & fittings, light bulb assembly, and installation hardware - $30 (1) Autometer Sport Comp 3561 (silver bezel black face) 0 - 15 psig fuel pressure gauge (electric digital stepper) with sender, wiring harness, light bulb assembly, and installation hardware - $175
The first two were bought on 11/16/1993 from Summit and I still have the original receipt for them. The third one I bought in 09/04/2012 from Chicane23.com and I have the receipt for that one also. All three of these gauges just came out of my T-Bird and all were verified working when I started the new 351W. I pulled them out as I need 2-1/16" gauges to put into a custom dash cluster. The last one is pretty high dollar but it was never put into service until I fired the 351W a couple of weeks ago. I ship USPS priority mail so Shipping will be $6 each or if you buy two or all three it will be $12 due to the size of the box needed for two or more.