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Messages - Jack Hidley
We do have rear caliper hoses which will fit on a Thunderbird TC. These are in the 1994-95 Mustang section.
Bizzaro-world Thunderbird parts:)
Axle should only be measured from the brake mounting flange to the very tip of the inner end. This is the dimension that affects the trackwidth of the car. It is the dimension that Ford uses in all of its drawings. The graphic shows the dimension to go from the brake mounting flange to the end of the splines. It should show this going to the end of the axle. The name should be changed from "Spline-Flange" for C and F to "End-Flange".
The correct dimension for the 1979-93 Mustang axles is 29.16", not 29.18".
The correct dimension for the 1994-98 Mustang axles is 29.91", not 29.97".
The correct dimension for the 1999-2004 Mustang axles is 30.63", not 30.69".
Once these dimensions are fixed, the dimension A will need to be fixed with the formula below. There should be significant figures added in some of the cases.
It should be noted in the document that the 1999-2004 Mustang axle housings have 14mm bolt holes for the RLCAs, instead of 12mm. This means that a custom RLCA would need to be used with 12mm crush sleeves at the chassis end and 14mm crush sleeves at the axle end for use of this housing in any Fox chassis or 1994-98 SN95 chassis.
I would also add a note that the total axle axle flange to axle flange dimension for any assembly is dimension C+F+0.75" for all assemblies listed. If the car has a 31 spline differential or any Torsen differential, add 0.125" to this dimension as the pin/block is 0.875" wide in these differentials. This measurement must be taken with both axles pushed into the housing. This enables one to accurately determine what length axle is installed in the housing as well as if the differential is 28 or 31 spline when using stock parts, without taking anything apart. This won't work well with many aftermarket axles, because their length tolerance is usually poor.
Most rear disc rotors have a 0.235" thick hat. Drums have a thickness of 0.060". If you measure with the brakes installed, 2X of these dimensions need to be subtracted from the measurement.
I really wish this BBS would allow a larger font size;)
You can't really compare the internal friction of different ball joints which are not installed in a car. What really matters is the friction level when the ball joint is loaded by the sprung weight of the car. The OEM SN95 ball joints are much better under these conditions than anything made by the aftermarket.
The several data points I have for Fox Thunderbirds is that both nuts are the same size as each other on both sides of the car. For a Thunderbird installing SN95 calipers, you will need to use the MMBK15F front hose kit. This will not need any adapters.
1984.5 to 2004 Mustangs all used 12mm bolts for this. So the racks had bushings with a smaller ID. You can swap the bushings between the racks.
All 1979-2004 manual racks use the same spline and diameter on the input shaft as a 1979-93 Mustang (and Fox Thunderbird) with PS. If you use an aftermarket manual rack with the long input shaft, this will put it in the same location as the stock PS rack does.
What year and model is the car in your axle housing photo?
Is it a 7.5" or 8.8"?
Stock Mustang springs will lower the T-Bird quite a bit and won't really be stiff enough. The T-Bird uses longer springs and has more static weight on the rear tires, so it needs springs longer than a Mustang and stiffer. We have a number of stiffer Mustang springs, but most of them are too short to work properly. To solve the length issue, we designed a new RLCA with an adjustable height spring perch that is higher.
There is no need to cut off the bump stop brackets.
I don't think the Crown Vic rear calipers will create a major problem on your car. There do have larger pistons than what is ideal for your application. This creates two problems.
1) Increases the amount of rear brake bias. Most of this can be dealt with through the adjustment of the proportioning valve. Since your car is going to have a staggered tire setup, that helps compensate some also.
2) It will make the brake pedal have more travel and require less effort. As noted above this is being countered by the fact that that the pedal ratio in the car is to low. It could also be corrected with a different m/c diameter, but there are no other diameter m/c that will fit on the hydroboost unit.
With the pin on the pedal raised 0.75" I think it will be fine.