Have mine with Grundy. Cost is $265 for $20K agreed value full coverage in Chicago. There are usage restrictions (no driving the car to work, pick up groceries, I.E. daily driver stuff) but no mileage restrictions. Also have a few $K in spare parts coverage included. $0 deductible for all damage (comp & collision) and glass replacement. Had to make a claim for a windshield issue (chip repair on a 32 year old Carlite windshield) and it was no hassle.
Thanks for that - $177/year quick quote for double the vehicle value coverage of Haggerty. I haven't compared either one's agreements or ratings, but great to have a second option to review.
I went with Haggerty collector insurance on my car covering it for $5k. It is around $200 a year and limited to 5k miles per year with a bunch of other rules applied. You can list all your modifications to the car and they will be covered.
Although not a cost savings versus what you are doing, this insurance is full coverage versus just liability.
Great - looking into them. $222/year in my case for a quick quote. Agree that it's a benefit for more than basic liability at the same price.
Not sure where they get their value estimates from though. Humorous. Even the pristine TC being sold locally by a dealer is listed at $10k!
I've been sporadically re-adding and removing my Thunderbird from insurance as it hasn't been getting much road time. It's a hassle, but worth saving $20/mo for the couple times a year the car's getting out of the driveway.
Is there any insurance that you guys know about (specifically offered for Washington state) for collector vehicles? Even my plates today are non-expiring collector plates, so the car isn't to be driven like normal drivers. Would just like to find an insurance plan to match up so I don't need to go through the hassle of adding and removing my Thunderdbird every time I want to drive it for any reason on a specific day (and a day in advance...)
My current insurance plan is $1070 for 3 vehicles and 2 drivers, and it gets bumped to $1200 if I have the Tbird on there...no one else except us two will ever drive the four total vehicles, so it's crazy that even liability insurance continues to go up as more vehicles are added, with the same number of drivers (specifically 3 vehicles are mine).
I will have more followup details in the coming week - TMI is sending me some quotes, and a few dozen samples of 80's factory colors, all their reds, and their grays/blacks, in vinyls and carpets.
The TMI part numbers posted further up in the thread are also not 100% correct. For example, the seat foam part number is the back only - there is a different number for the pair. I believe the headrest upholstery was also not a correct part number, while discussing with TMI on the phone.
I'm looking at having charcoal black vinyl sides/back of the seats, perforated scarlet red vinyl seating surface, and some better/thicker carpet for the underside (to not be a lint magnet). Supposedly these changes will have minimal price difference.
Rear windows the same. The earlier part number with metal surround didn't come with rubber. When that stock dried up, the only option was the 1988 model which included the rubber; even if you didn't need it, you'd pay the increased part price. Then those disappeared from the market.
The outer rubber molding CAN come off, but I've had no luck getting the pliable rubber on my new rear molding to come out. Old harder rubber can be pried out of its retaining channel with little effort - I've done this twice, on my car and a junkyard vehicle.
Oh, I'd prefer to keep the passenger side lumbar, and adjustable bolsters on both. No worries there - the stock frames would be ideal for me too, so if I can find new owners for the Mustang seats, I'd be happy.
Years ago I figured the later seats may be stronger too, but I've seen some threads mentioning that the SN95 seatbacks can also twist/bend and get the lean.
I have listed the seats for sale, and have a potential sale already getting lined up. Mostly a waste of money and time, but I'll at least recoup my costs and gain some experience. Just lost some garage floor space and storage of foam/upholstery for a couple years...
I'd love to do this Mustang foam/upholstery swap onto the stick frames, after repairing/strengthening my driver side seat back. I'd also likely refinish the frames, as you had.
The Wideband(s) are on a DataQ. I have the EGR blocked off right now, but also have never used it for o2 input. Hardwired via analog lines in DataQ only.
I just need to look at the spec sheet and reset the wideband map to factory range, check again, and adjust as needed to get close to the switching from the narrowbands (a bit above and below lambda of 1).
Yeah, I want to throw fuel at it again. When I did this weeks ago, it didn't clear anything up, but I was also on the dying coil. Need to re-do some tests.
Install second LC-2 wideband in passenger bank and hook up to DataQ, setup in BE, run engine until CL and make any adjustment if necessary to get wideband map closer, disable CL and mess with either injector values or MAF depending on which settings look like they'll be the correct correction, richen mixture a point and see if anything smooths out. Mess with timing and see if anything smooths out. Run car without alternator to see how it is on a fixed DC Voltage from the battery. Run second EEC-IV ground from battery to EEC.
These are some of the things that I'd like to perform and (re)test tomorrow. Simple tests out of the way.
The stock tune reading the stock MAF should be pretty dead-on though, with the factory tune. Stock airbox. Airflow metering should be accurate between it or the PMAS/Pro-M MAF.
Block was 0-decked and TW170 heads were milled .030 to get 54c chambers. With those and the HO cam, there was loads of clearance when I checked. The clay looked to have almost as much as 1/2 inch - I didn't measure exactly as it was simply thick.
I am happy with the HO cam, if I could get the shortblock to run smoother at idle. Don't care about getting every last bit of power from the motor (even +30hp), it already moves fine with the parts it has. But if I were building a new shortblock today and knew I wouldn't have ptv clearance (clay), of course I'd try a different/newer style cam that's a bit more aggressive. I'd also run a completely different longblock, and wouldn't be cheap. Then I'd probably still have idle issues and hate driving the car.
Agreed on the pita, but carb is easy if you already have the intake pulled. Just re-use the old gaskets with rtv for the test, and new gaskets when reinstalling the efi intake. Degreeing the cam, I'd just advance it while in there already. I'd completely swap the cam if I wasn't worried about ptv - don't want to pull the heads. The motor has a ton of ptv clearance right now though - lots of clay thickness when I tested it during the head install.
Can you send me the set of photos from your other thread, so I can piece together what all you did? I can pm you my e-mail address if you don't have them up anywhere, such as dropbox, google drive, etc.