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Messages - EricCoolCats
Hood push pins:
I used these on my '84 and can confirm they are 100% identical to stock.
Awesome score, congrats! I've always believed that symmetrical dash looks best in a convertible.
If you remove the back seat top section, there might be a number written on a piece of tape or possibly on the foam itself. That would be the CC conversion number. It's probably an '86-converted car but it's hard to tell. Does the chrome piece around the back part of the roof have snaps on top, or no snaps, for the top boot?
There is an equalizer bracket that goes roughly under the driver's seat. The line from the pedal goes into one end; the other end is where both rear cables bolt in. They are adjustable in that respect. There is also a spring that hooks onto a cable to keep tension; I don't have a photo of that.
If you don't have the equalizer bracket, it's a tough find but I believe a 1990s Taurus SHO used the same piece.
Safe bets: anything Fox chassis, anything from the era with a halo headrest.
I did the LED conversion on my own two cars but neither had the System Sentry. If there's a problem then I need to let people know about that on my site. But it sounds like, if all else is working properly, then the LED conversion is still not an issue.
So with those out of the picture now, you're still getting a 'lamp out' warning light? That person might be on to something...personally I haven't experienced a bad LED bulb but that's entirely possible.
Another thing you can try is swapping in the old incandescent bulbs, one at a time, until the warning light goes out. That should give you an idea of which LED bulb has the weak diode. I've found that, once swapped to LEDs, you can put the old incandescent bulbs back in without penalty to the new LED-spec flasher unit. (You can actually mix bulbs and everything still works just fine).
So it seems like you'd need to put some inline resistors in. They're sold primarily for newer cars; older cars like ours technically shouldn't need them but in the case of System Sentry, I'm betting that's going to help, at least with high-priority bulbs like the headlamps and taillamps. For the rest of the car's bulbs, I think there's just too small of a draw to justify any resistors on those circuits. Just my thoughts on this.
It's been a few years for my LED conversion in both cars and they're just fine...then again, I don't have System Sentry in either car. But no issues with the multifunction switch if that helps.
Speaking of, if you resolve the issue with the headlamps and taillamps, your multifunction switch might just prove to be alright. Sounds like you're getting feedback through the switch...which kind of makes sense with the headlight wiring routing.
Looking for ONE THING..... The car that I want said item for is a 1987 Cougar 5.0 with FULL DIGITAL DASH
-- Fuel injection harness; with the correct connector for the temp sender for the digital dash on the driver side
OK boomer...I'll stay off your lawn too. Sheesh.
FOSZ13776C (passenger side)
1965 p/n (OEM style like ours, with chrome surround):
It looks like Scott Drake sells reproduction new replacements now, so that's a great option. Look under "interior quarter panel lights".
If you need some reference pix just let me know.
A square roller? Wow...guess I better check mine now too LOL.
I also need to play with the limit switches ... I assume the bottom one is supposed to cut the power to the motor once the window hits a certain spot?
Yes, exactly. Was yours not doing that?