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Messages - Jeremy Belcher
Have you at least checked the codes?
Ford's EEC-III Trouble Codes - Tomco Inc.
Is the kit just for the lower attach points or for the tether anchor?
Lots of tuners delete the O2 input...Lots of tuners do lots of stupid things (I'm not implying Aerocoupe 's tuner is stupid).
Deleting the rear O2s is common (in applications that have them), as they don't affect performance/drivability - they just let the user know when the cats dead.
Nobody even knows their O2's are out of range unless they test 'em....or a new(er) vehicle throws a light or code...The front O2s in closed loop (>99% of time spend driving) help fuel efficiency, drivability, and emmissions.
As long as the trim is +/- 25% of nominal, the O2s can get the AFR back to stoichiometric for good fuel economy without bucking.
Going Open Loop 100% of the time is generally a strategy used when properly tuning the vehicle is too hard or time consuming. Instead of really nailing down the MAF table or SD tables, you can specify OL 100% of the time, richen the mixure a bit over stoichiometric and just take the mpg and emissions hit.
Aerocoupe might have some insight as to why his tuner went full OL tune, but I've never seen a good reason (for me) to go that route.
He made two more pulls and came back inside and said he deleted the O2's from the EEC so I can now unplug them and plug the holes in the X-pipe. Said the signal on them is usually crap and he can tune without them and the signal on mine was crap.Sounds sort of ghetto to me.
Imbalance is with the engine flywheel, not the transmission torque converter.
C5 is shorter than the AOD. You'll need a shorter D/S.
You may have to cut the tack welds on your crossmember to move the mount back.
Freeze 12 is 80% R134a and 20% R142b. The R142b is to make it miscable with the mineral oil. (R134a isn't miscable with mineral oil [it's like oil and water, compressor would oil starve]) You can use Freeze 12 as a substitute for R12 without changing the oil. However, head pressure will be similar to R134a - not a good idea for the HR980.
I'd get the HR980 and run R12 - not Freeze 12.
Is also get a new condenser to replace you current one if it's still tube/fin. That'll lower head pressure and improve performance. Not sure you can handle the visual difference though.
When you replace the compressor, replace the lines as well and have blow out the evaporator and condenser if you don't replace it. Since you have a leak, you've also leaked oil (and there is no way to know how much) so removing all the old stuff and starting from scratch is the correct way to do it.
That'll get you another 10-20 years out of it.
Also, you can still get R12, so just use that until the compressor grenades.
Edit: Looks like R12 is ~$50/lb on ebay.
Pics show 3.8LMaybe he installed the rare destroker kit to take the 3.8 down to 3.0 to allow for high revs on the circle track.