Skip to main content

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all Show Posts made by this member. Note that you can only see Show Posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - jcassity

1
Lounge / Re: AC Power grimlin
controlling the transient was not the problem, i have that under control.  I was just wondering where it was coming from even when i suppllied my very own power from a car powered inverter all the while making all wiring to the garage cold by killing the breaker in my home.

I can easilly get the pad under control and from what i have found, i see good reason to do so.  its as simple as doing a core drill into the opposite sides of the floor then get lucky and get a hold of the wire webbing or rebar, cad weld or connnet that to my copper clade rod after driving 
what i woud like to do is drive in a pilot hole with rebar into the earth after my concrete is cleared and remove the rebar then fill my hole with salt,, then set my permanent ground rod in the hole and drive it in.  tie in the floor rebar or webbing and that should do it  meaning next time i have  two pr0ng device its likely i wont see this transient voltage anymore
3
Lounge / Re: AC Power grimlin
softtouch
this issue was present before i made up the proper 3 pr0ng cord.
The day i got shocked, i discovered this stray / transient voltage and decided i would do a vid on it when i finally got my head around what was actually happened.  turns out i am still not undersanding whats happening but i do know a couple things that might help null it out.

i get what your saying and i would not have thought of it so good point,, coupling up at the wire nuts mixed with the temp two pr0ng would / could make that sort of thing possible.

I checked again today being its day 3 of decent no rain etc and can steadily holdd around 25 to 30vac.
all is well with a 3 pr0ng chord though.

the main thing i forgot to mention on the vid is what the purpose of the vid was actually about.  I wanted people to be aware of the dangers of 2 pr0ng devices even new items of today especially when the item has any exposed metal or exposed screw heads bonded to metal covers and such.

I am considering ideas on grounding my floor with driven ground rods. 
I know with a 3pr0ng cord this is likely not going to ever be an issue but I happen to work on super old electrical things all the time and the last thing i need is some random voltage being injected into it all because its raining outside or its wet.  I believe the reason why i just found this problem is that its the first and only time i have had an actual metal workbench in the garage and since the issue showed itself, i look at it as a cup half full giving me an opportunity to at least correct it before hand.

what i need to do is see if i can use my metal detector to determine the exact location of rebar,, then make an opening, then drive a rod,, then weld the rebar to the rod,,  Id like to do this near the area where my garage door is and another towars the long wooden workbench where all my tools are.

I am doing a part 2 on this soon to demonstrate how i sourced power from a car inverter and had all power cut off going to the garage and how the problem remained.
there is something about my pad that is doing this...  thats all i know at this point.
4
Lounge / Re: AC Power grimlin
most modern slabs **MUST** have a ufer ground rod(s) which is a cad weld to the wire mesh or rebar.
i am positive my slab is not grounded.
the following below is what i did to further troubeshoot..............and the outcome is short of an X Files moment.  I am thinking of posting this on MikeHolts forum

I killed my house main breaker feeding my garage sub panel which makes the primary feed to the garage cold.
I hooked up my 2kw inverter to my 20th cougar
i ran the same two pr0ng backfeed circuit from the inverter to the power strip.

THE PROBLEM REMAINED !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
5
Lounge / AC Power grimlin
if your power savey,  help me figure out what the heck is going on here in this vid i uploaded yesterday.

I have no idea what to check next  likely because i dont think i have a tool required to check my branch circuit feeding my garage.

This is a real mystery

https://youtu.be/kddeliIkjxI
6
Electrical Tech / Re: EEC / computer power relay relocation
since last dealing with this eec power relay, i did happen to spot it where it should be but that was on my white coug i completely overhauled going 3.8L to 5.0 & flat black paint, folding rear seat, fuel pump access hatch, subframes, dual exhaust,  fuel filter relocation to engine bay, 2'' tube steel re-enforced rad core supppor & front end support so car can be towed from front or rear, mining belt pads at four points for future jacking up of car or lifts,, list of improvments go on and on including built in pop out drink HOLDER!!!!.

my point was if anyone did this,, did they remember if any wires needed extended or not.
iirc, one or two wires traveled "up" wth no slack.

from what i observed, the best way to get to the relay is through the pass front speaker opening.,,, howeveer,,,
you have to fabricate a tiny tool to poke into a special spot on the speaker grill in order to remove it properly.  i did know this until i poped the grill off and discivered the tab.  the shop manual did not mention this at all anywhere that i was able to find.
7
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars WANTED / Wanted- Oil Pan for 5.0L
I am experimenting on doing a two piece oil pan and would like to also post the process on my youtube channel " I FIX IT ALL".

A two piece pan would allow one to remove the pan without too much trouble,, pull the two long bolts out for motor mount then jack up the engine a little bit to achieve bell housing and front rack clearance.

location is 24941 and ph 304 772 4082 ask for scott.

8
Electrical Tech / EEC / computer power relay relocation
I  was really disappointed in how ford mounted the computer power relay.  Its location being difficult to get to is an understatement.
I am considering lowering it downward and over to an area that would put it basically behind the glove box.

meaning,, you open said glove box then push in the tab of the clove box so it swings completely down.  now when you look at your hvac enclosure, to the right there would reside the power relay.

thoughts?

tid bit of random knowledge her in case anyone out there needs to know...............................................
*** IF *** you have a ford engine with a CFI fuel injection system.... your EEC power relay is unique unto itself.  it is not by any stretch a mirror of what you would know of as a standard relay.   more specifically, if your engine has an IDLE SPEED Control Motor, mounted to the side of your CFI,  the proper relay for your car would be one that has a time delay built into the low current side / coil side of the relay offering a time delay when you turn your ign sw "OFF".  during power down, the eec power relay stays energizd for a couple seconds to respot / re-position the nose of the ISC motor for your next startup.  once this eec command is complete, the eec power relay will power down.,,, actually after a couple seconds it will power down.  All im saying here is that the eec power relay has a power down time delay built into it just for the sake of properly operating the ISC motor controller.

I swapped in a 5.0L sefi into an originally built 3.8L CFI coug, i was able to use a standard relay for this application and so would anyone else who *does not* have an ISC motor controller typically only equipped on CFI application engines by ford.
 
13
Suspension/Steering / quad shock OEM parts on rock auto
once upon a time, i had to replace the OEM horizontal shock in the rear of the 20th and had a hell of a time trying to find them in box stores.  I ended up measuring the lenth and bought a set that seemed to be called out for Jeep.

later on i was drilling deep into Rock Auto and as with any life lesson,,,, if only you knew what the  thing is called you might be able to find the part.

i sumbled across what appeared to be an identical looking ""cone"ish ended looking shock that rock auto had at that time dub'd as a "steering dampener".  I lookded at the specs and it was a match for these two tiny shocks and ordered a set , stored them back and later on installed them.  I called rock auto and had them update how they classified these shocks so people can find them easier and now they can be found under the following path............
car info.../ drivetrain / axle shaft dampener 

just fyi incase you too were wanting something that looked identical to the ford OEM ones.  they are 24$ ea by Gabriel pn 14039
14
Engine Tech / Power Steering Pump mounting bracket modification *ACTUALLY WAS OEM AT ONE TIME*
A long while back i posted a thread about my "white" coug now black i was building for my youngest boy chance.

I modified the power steering pump mounting bracket which in its natural form we all know,, the aluminum mounting bracket "surrounds" the pump itself and does not allow you to remove the pump unless you have the special tool to remove the pully.

I noticed the pump is bolted to the braket with 3 bolts and lets say at the 12, 4 & 8 o'clock locations viewing it face on.

I broke out my bandsaw and cut away the minimal metal in between the 4 & 8 o'clock position and got a lot of ball busting for doing so.
Fast forward to me taking vacation in 14' up to reading pa to do nothing all but enjoy time with my Bro' in law, my son's and a member here "jayandmustangs" aka "justin" as we all hit the vast wealth of junkyards.
I stumbled across a ford that i dont remember the car,,,, but from the factory it had this very same quality.

I am going to do a vid on it and also capture the casting number for the sake of information preservation / knowledge of this forum so others can make it useful if they like.

stay tuned.
15
Engine Tech / TWO PEICE oil pan modification & replacement.
I am going to be forced to replace my oil pan soon,,, its given me no choice.  its rusting out.
during my "Jumped time" project" i found out where my majority of oil leak was.  Two pin holes on the pass and one on the drivers side.  I mixed up some super sauce of epoxy and putty and jbweld and its holding for now.  seems to be what everyone else is doing for a somewhat semi long term repair.

In the meantime i am looking for a oil pan from someone so i can "make" it into a two piece pan,  This will help "future proof" so to speak the ease of which it is to access the bottom end in the future.  Anyone with a pan can call 304 772 4082 and ask for scott.

i put this thread here because i know there will be questions.  I have found a sheet steel product that is "H" shaped which is the key to enable this idea to move forward.  if this has already been done then pls share cause i will need all the help i can get.  Overall this will be an easy project to achieve.  Sketch up available if needed and i will likely do a vid on it at "i fix it all" on youtube.  Its my belief this solves a burden us fox body people have.