Check out Moates, I use the quarterhorse on my A9L running binary editor to tune it. Theres plenty of youtube video tutorials and Dave is very responsive with any questions you might have.
I know I know. Once I blow up this AOD I'm switching over. Going to start piecing it together as I find stuff. Doubt the old 7.5 will hold up but we will find out.
Got my oil leak cleaned up and got to the track yesterday but only got one pass due to helping out other buddies there. Car ran a 12.81 at 103 mph with 2.0 60ft launched with a 125 shot and after 2.6 seconds it progresses down to a 50 shot. At the last second I also wimped out and turned the boost duty cycle down it only made 7.5 psi. For some reason right at around the 1000 ft the car just shut off which is a new one for me, thus the low mph. After looking at the datalog looks like right when the nitrous came on my afr went to 9.1. So going to investigate that and probably change my fuel jet for the nitrous system to something smaller. All in all I was happy with it haven't raced in a while so I was guessing on a lot of the tune.
Its always something.... Fixed my last exhaust leak on the passenger side was testing the car, spooled faster than ever, but I didn't notice the oil pressure line to the top of the turbo had found its way to the left manifold. Ended up burning a hole in it while out in the middle of nowhere. Talk about a huge mess. Got a replacement line overnighted and a new pressure washer, went to put the line on but the threads on the AN fitting on the turbo were stripped so then I ordered that. Well funny story I get the envelope today and there's nothing in it. It was completely sealed but they didn't put the part in it so after a fun phone call now I have another fitting on the way. And hopefully everything will be back to normal again.
Heres my spark at idle, Its brief because I have more oil to clean up turns out. Also while you're tuning bump your base idle up 100 rpm and see if it smooths out at all.
Just so you know my tune is always open loop. I did that so I can lock the fuel and timing in and don't have to worry about the computer trying to adjust when I'm about to hit the nitrous. I always know what spark and fuel I should be at for any given Load.
Airfliow may be close but without an accurate wideband reading we wont know you'd be tuning in the dark. How are you going to set up the wideband in BE I have mine hooked to the EGR output and adjusted the transfer function accordingly. But you're still running an EGR right? I run an innovate LC-2 w/gauge haven't used the dataQ yet. Disconnecting the alternator is a good idea maybe see if your datalog signal cleans up still a long shot but worth a look.
Weird I swear I looked through all the posts and didnt see a thing about fuel pressure. Maybe try tuning it, you have all the equipment, force OL and recalibrate the afr sensor and adjust your MAF transfer until your open loop fuel table and AFR gauge agree with each other after the engine is warm. Maybe its just not happy because its getting more airflow than its expecting because you have a 306 with tw heads and a gt40 ported intake running on a stock tune. I mean im sure people have done it, but every single engine is different from each other not one tunes the same as the other. You could also tune the Idle but thats more difficult to walk through without being there and seeing the data, the link I sent earlier from efidynotuning is probably the best info on tuning idle Ive found anywhere.
Still going to get you that datalog of my spark at idle this weekend. But until then I have more questions, what AFR are you shooting for at idle? are you hitting it? and when was the last time you calibrated your wideband sensor?
Whats your fuel pressure at idle and what does it change to when you pull the vacuum line off the regulator?
So you have an A9P running on a 4r70w. Which controller are you using to control the trans?
Sorry for all the questions there's just such a wide range of things that can affect idle quality and trying to give you any sort of good idea without being there is difficult.
You have a stock cam in it right? Personally never had an issue but I also know all cams are different from one another. Is it possible yours is different enough to cause an issue, maybe but seems unlikely. Youre right though putting a degree wheel on it is the only way to know for sure but seems like a long shot to me. I personally would start with different plugs cap and rotor the maintenance stuff that has to be done eventually anyway. Cant say I've ever had a set of plugs last me more than a year even when I was N/A, now days I go through a set of ngk 5673-7 in about 3 months at most. I would also try and set base idle by unplugging the battery and clearing KAM unplugging the IAC reconnect battery starting it and adjusting the throttle plate until it idles where I want then shut it off and plug the IAC back in start it and let it run for a while sometimes Ive had to do it a few times after replacing my throttle body to get idle back to normal. You said it acts up at 2000 rpm right? Like its misfiring?
Sitting here thinking about it I remember a few years back I had a somewhat similar issue could not for the life of me get my idle to be steady but also on accel my tach needle would randomly jump all over, ended up playing the swap parts game until my cap finally fixed it, I keep a spare distributor with cap and rotor in my trunk now I've gone though 3-4 distributors and countless tfi modules the msd pro billet I have now has lasted the longest surprisingly enough.
Well if its not the cable its either a strange issue or just my imagination but I have yet to see that kind of electrical interference out of one of these but it may be normal. I've had GMs at work that had so much noise you would think they were possessed, wipers going at random times, flashers randomly going off, fun to diagnose but like I said usually when I removed the random aftermarket stuff it would clean up the CAN signal and everything would go back to normal.
Is he referring to your timing table? How would you check actual timing events of the cam?
Ok so long story short I don't currently have any datalogs of idle with spark in it somehow. I have a lot of driving but not enough at idle to give any definitive result, although what I see in your log looks strange. As of right now my car is down, didn't notice my oil line to the turbo slid over against my manifold ended up burning a hole in it, talk about a mess. I just got the new line today should have it running this weekend and I'll get some logs of idle with spark. I did change the scaling of my TPS log and I don't see near as much noise also strange. It could just be your USB cable and we are chasing ghosts. Do you happen to have any ferrite beads to put on it? I know mine came with them but I never had to put them on.
You're right, I didn't even notice the scale difference I've compared the same PIDS on a lot of datalogs and its never done that to me thats weird. After work I'll find one with a good spark log and mess with the scaling of mine to see how dirty it comes out just out of curiosity.
The first thing that really pops out at me is the amount of electrical noise that's being picked up, may just be your cable but might be worth looking into. You could scope the tps signal and see if its just as dirty. 90% of the time when I have electrical noise causing issues its due to aftermarket equipment or an alternator. The first thumbnail is from your datalog the second is one from my car a few weeks ago. I'll keep looking but that's the very first thing I see.
That looks pretty, so reading back through this post looks like you have swapped out a lot of things, as of right now what maf and injectors are on the car and around what afr are you shooting for? You also mentioned youve only changed CID what is your SARCHG at? Im trying to figure out if something is going on in your maf transfer or load scaling. Maybe once you get your computer going you can send me the .bin file. Ive had idle issues in the past ive been able to tune out with idle adjustments but thats not ideal. I feel like you probably want to get to the bottom of it. A good start may be a base idle relearn if you havent already
.png)