I usually carry two brands of loctite,, medium and heavy "thread locker"
I picked up some Loctite 609 just for curiosity sake. Its bragging rights is that it will act as a shim as well as a retaining substance.
beware!!! this is some good stuff. I placed a small amount on a 1/2'' nut (on the side of the nut, not the threads) then i placed another nut up against it. I cant break em apart now cause its cured. My father inlaw retired from Timkin Roller Bearing in Canton OH and he says ,,"yeah, when that stuff sets up and you dont have the bearing race just right,, it takes heat and a chissel and a grinding wheel to loosen it up.
good stuff if you ask me. I only experimenting with it in order to use this stuff in place of shim stock.
Not sure why im putting this here but i thought it might be a decent BS topic
does anyone have any experience with older 60's-70's bus engines. im curious because i have a local down here with a torino but the engine is an old bus engine with a stroker kit plus lots of wing dings including a blower. Im almost afraid to say this but he claims it was a different V8 engine which were made for larger vehicles and says its along the lines of a 427?,, now to the other question if the possiblity is confirmed, How hard are they to find?
Looks like the wife has problems with her bronco. she says it seems to stall out on her when she pushes in the clutch. I toyed with it yesterday late eve and decided i better start getting familiar with this thing. I guess ill start by seeing if it will pull codes and if so, dig up the info.
interesting thing i noticed on this engine,, the location of the TPS is outragious!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mounted upside down on the second lower throttle body,,wtf.
The wife claims that just before it stalls, the voltage needle shoots up above normal,,,,
EGR isnt clogged and it operates as well with vac applied ill check the alternator output and test it try to fiddle with the green wire on the tps for output. PVC is clear removed airfilter,, no change in symptoms
Im not sure what this will end up being because its all factory with all the emissions wing dings still on ect ect ect.
Does anyone know where i could get a hold of a very low cost and very small "thermal switch"?
I found one exactly perfect on the honeywell web site but they are silicone based and not cheap.
Im looking for something that detects heat and opens up then closes again when cooler temps arrive. The principle i am after is what involves your dryer heating elements to go off and on again by the use of the thermal switches but these switches are too large.
Id like to find something along the range of 100degF when it finally opens.
J or K wire would work ok but still the cost is out of reach.
In the fall of 2002, i got a champion battery for the tractor and later on that winter it gave us trouble so i brought it back to Kmart to trade in.
during the winter of 2003-2004, this new one started giving us trouble and i noticed that one day it was frozen inside! I traded that one off last year so the battery i have now is giving me trouble also.
the battery says it was made in may of 04 and i bought it in july sometime. I went out a couple days ago to try to plow the driveway but the battery had not power. today, i removed the covers on the battery and its frozen inside also.
i wonder if Kmart is buying mild weather range batteries which have a hight mix of water than the deep cold climate batteries?
i called kmart to tell em again like i did last year that the battery had frozen. I think champion might get a letter about this also.
This poor battery sits in my living room right now by the fire to thaw out. Ill see if it can take a charge after all the ice melts. its a 23month free replacement battery but thats beside the point.
On a footnote, my neighbor bought his marine and truck battery from the same place and i called him about the problem. You'll never guess what he found,, both frozen also.
I found some sort of trojan horse and did a little research on it. My AVG detected it and i was able to research out some file names that were involved. I scan my hd for any files like the ones associated with this virus and find these a few days ago. I mined them out and put em in the recycle bin. they sit there now and my pc does not run any different.
are these files usless? other than the purpose they originally served if in fact they are a part of the virus?
Virus name (and you gotta dig to find this) Stubby B
Would anyone happen to have the step by step for a mustang AOD to T5 swap? Pls dont make me go hunting down stang sites. It gonna be pretty much the same but different with respect to our cars.
This mustang happens to be one of those years where the 4cyl had 8 plugs,, knotch back stang is the patient.
anyone? I know there are some differnces and maybe some specific info of what to do and what not to do would be helpful.
just thought id share this cause the cost to repair a flywheel ring gear is by far cheaper than buying a whole new one especially in the case of the standard drive lines.
Flywheel repair for ring gear
TRANNY steps unhook battery block wheels remove starter remove stick shift and 4x4 shifter if a truck remove drive shaft or just the front end if a truck undo txfer case drive shaft on the front only if a truck unplug speed sensor / cable at tailshaft remove bolts from tranny mount and install 12'' blocks leave hyd clutch assy alone remove top two bell housing bolts and install two very long ones, i used pivit bolts for power steering remove flywheel dust cover remove presure plate/flywheel bolts entering from the bottom or through side hole of bell housing if equipped. rotate crank via the harmonic to get at next bolt remove all bellhousing bolts except the two long top ones loop a wratchet strap to the rear of vehicle loop watchet strap to the tranny tailshaft wratchet the tranny backwards, wood blocks acting as a slide, two long bolts act as guides remove presure and clutch plate since they are now free install a breaker bar/socket/extention on the front of the crank to put crank in a bind against the frame somewhere remove all 6 of the flywheel bolts, crank should be in a bind in a way that assists you when loosening the flywheel bolts to prevent it from turning mark flywheel to block as the flywheel only goes in one way and saves time on install remove flywheel
RING GEAR R/R Start a fire somewhere like in a burning barrel or shop wood stove place your new ring gear over a direct fire of some sort (maybe a cookout grille) Give even taps with a heavy hammer to the old ring gear Tap evenly moving around till it starts to give in and come off. use welding gloves and retrive your new ring gear from the fire lay ring gear on flywheel and it should drop right on.
I did up a purdy pic below but this is what i have here. A friend of mine showed up today , with 7week old girl in tow i might add, to show me three connecting rod caps and a single bearing he pulled off his 400m. This engine is sort of fresh on a rebuild but the source of the rebuild i am not sure of. anyways, a couple rod bearings spun initially and again here yesterday.
I noticed something about the keyway that the bearing locks into so i had to sort of draw a picture. the rod cap has a blow up of the keyway right next to it. I noticed that there was an oil stain right in and around the keyway. that tells me that the bearing was not seating properly in the lock keyway. next , i noticed that the keyway was sort of ramped instead of being deeply cut on the lower edge. this ramp made me think that the keyway was full of debris from the past two spun bearings. If he installs bearings again, id think they would spin again because they are not seating properly with reguard to the keyway being full of . The oil stain right around the key way area also tells me that there must have been an air gap between the bearing and the cap thus it was not seated well due to this build up.
I suggested he remove all the rod caps and clean out that debris to form some sort of sharp edge like i depict in the second blow up shot of the key way area in the pick below.
am i on to something here based on what ive said?
again,, the below pic shows the cap then the blow up of the keyway with the "ramp" effect i found. the second blow up is what i "think" it should look like or there abouts.
I also suggested he may want to consider my rebuilding it so that i could go and have the rods broached as well since they might be out of round with all the off roading hammering away and the lack of a double sump oil pan. Usually with a single sump setup you burn out the rear couple or three if you dont watch out.
did i notice something here or not? seems to me that keyway should not be so milled out like its a smooth ramp but have a sharp edge to it so the bearing is retained like in the second blow up of the keyway.
down at the bottom,, a button called,,,,,,"Archive"
whats that button collecting? is it capturing current threads from this site only or is it linked to the old site as well? just curious cause i never noticed it before
