Skip to main content
Topic: New issues after the fuel pump change (Read 4208 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: New issues after the fuel pump change

Reply #15
Well I’ve got great news and I’ve got horrible news.


The great news is that I dropped the tank again, and found my stupid mistake.  I got in a hurry and didn’t change the four inches of fuel line going from the pump itself to the outlet.  I guess the pressure of the new pump just split the old line, so 95% of the fuel was just running right back into the tank.

Thanks to every one for their help.  This time it only took me about a ¼ of the time it took last time.  It was running about 80 pounds straight from the new pump, and about 35 at the fuel rail.  Still not what you guys said to expect, but I’ll change the fuel filter again in case I stirred some  up in the tank.



Bad news now –

When I moved the car off the ramps I noticed a little puddle of oil.  My car has always leaked a little oil, but this was more than normal so I crawled back under it and looky what I found.  Anyone want to take a guess at what the hell that is hanging out of the edge of my freakin oil pan?!?!?!


Sometimes I think this car will be the death of me.

Re: New issues after the fuel pump change

Reply #16
Change your fuel filter.  It could have gotten  in it from when you changed the pump.
1988 Thunderbird
5.0 HO, t5, TC rear, TC brakes, etc. - Gone

Re: New issues after the fuel pump change

Reply #17
Approx 30 psi with vac on the regulator, and 39 psi no vac is what you want to have.


As far as the oil pan you may be able to loosen the bolts and "tuck" the gasket back in place. I did just that on the sister in laws Areostar a while back. It was so bad she was only getting 75 miles to a quart(had so much oil under it you probably couldn't sink it) :giggle: It still leaks a little but only takes about a quart in 1500 miles. And the garage told her $450 to replace it(book says pull tranny)... NFW

Re: New issues after the fuel pump change

Reply #18
Thanks I'll give that a try.  After all what do I have to lose?


I'd like to do an engine swap, but not yet.

Re: New issues after the fuel pump change

Reply #19
It can be done in the car but you have to have faith in yourself, your tools and your common sense to safety.

undo the motor mounts and if you want, remove them completely
lift the motor up not by the till the bellhousing stops you.
(or jack it up on the crank pulley using wood to protect the pully)
add blocks of wood inplace ow the mounts till you have it toped.
remove pan bolts
pry down
remove front/rear seal
remove each side gasket.
install in revers (of course you know to clean up surfaces as well as what drops in the pan)
oopppsss,, forgot to mention drain the oil :giggle:

since you might wanna tune up the pan ,, a buddy showed me a way that you could do this with the pan in the bay like you have it.

use a bolt,nut and two washers

slip washer on bolt
slip bolt thru hole on pan
slip washer on the othe side of the pan
add the nut
tighten down pretty well till you feel like stopping

what does this do?  removes the bevel in the pan which reduces prevents you from tightening it down properly.

the other method would be if your pan was out and allows different steps.

Re: New issues after the fuel pump change

Reply #20
So here's a theoretical faux-paux. I have the same deal with my car (oil pan that is). Looking at the picture and mine as well for the overall setup of the pan vs. the k-member. I was wondering, and I am basing this on the use of a one piece gasket, is it possible to:
1) Simply unbolt the pan
2) Hold the pan up and slide the gasket between the k-member and around the oil pan
3) Let the pan drop and rest on the k-member
4) Get the old gasket outta the way (this could be done after removing the bolts actually)
5) Slide the new gasket side by side (flexible rubber hint hint!) back in between the block and oil pan.
6) Bolt it back up to appropriate torque specs.

 If this is possible it would alleviate the jacking up the engine. Granted I need to get back under the car and double check the clearance. But if memory serves, there should be more than enough room to do it that way. Using the 4 piece gasket as jcassity suggested would be even easier this way. Nonetheless let rebuttal begin!!!
Temporarily Foxless? Ride the Bull...

Re: New issues after the fuel pump change

Reply #21
Quote from: jcassity
It can be done in the car but you have to have faith in yourself, your tools and your common sense to safety.

undo the motor mounts and if you want, remove them completely
lift the motor up not by the till the bellhousing stops you.
(or jack it up on the crank pulley using wood to protect the pully)
add blocks of wood inplace ow the mounts till you have it toped.
remove pan bolts
pry down
remove front/rear seal
remove each side gasket.
install in revers (of course you know to clean up surfaces as well as what drops in the pan)
oopppsss,, forgot to mention drain the oil :giggle:

since you might wanna tune up the pan ,, a buddy showed me a way that you could do this with the pan in the bay like you have it.

use a bolt,nut and two washers

slip washer on bolt
slip bolt thru hole on pan
slip washer on the othe side of the pan
add the nut
tighten down pretty well till you feel like stopping

what does this do?  removes the bevel in the pan which reduces prevents you from tightening it down properly.

the other method would be if your pan was out and allows different steps.



Honestly I'm mot sure I'm ready to tackle that by myself.

Thanks for the info.  I'm going to do a little more research and see if I might want to try to cahnge it in the car. :sawzall:

Re: New issues after the fuel pump change

Reply #22
Well I did the whole “gasket tuck” thing.  Honestly I’m too tired to see if it worked (not due to the repair).


I tried not to tighten the bolts up too much, but I did snap one of the bolts off.  Strange, because I really didn’t put anything into it at all.  It must have been cracked already.


It is becoming increasingly clear that I better start saving my pennies for a swap.

Brace  yourselves for multiple “302 vs 351 swap” questions.