From the '94 T-Bird shop Manual 3.8L V6: RWD, Roller Cam, No Balance Shaft, Sequential Multiport Fuel Injection, Injectors in the Head above the Intake Valve,, Removable distributor drive gear on front of the cam shaft, Part # 6255 Bolt/washer on end of cam shaft, Part # N806049-S2
Posting some pics from the 84 Shop Manual. They still made the Carb version of the 3.8 V6 in 84 & 85 for sale in Canada. The mechanical fuel pump and the distributor are in the timing chain cover (they call it the front cover). The pump actuating eccentric is part of the cam shaft. Not a bolt on like the V8s. Makes sense they would make a cover for the pump hole when they were making the same engine for the CFI version. How long the actuating eccentric stayed on the cam shaft is another question. Note: Click pic corner arrow to make more readable.
After re-reading the whole thread, your fuel pressure checks in post #9 indicate the regulator has vacuum and is working fine. Sorry, I'm an old coot and can't remember what I read back in June.
Did you remove the vacuum to the thermactor solenoids? If so, maybe you inadvertently also removed the vacuum to other stuff. MAP sensor, fuel pressure regulator etc.
The smog pump (thermactor) system not working will not cause your problem. Is it possible your smog delete procedure screwed up some other systems? Give us the details of your smog delete and maybe we can spot something.
Yes, running rich can cause the cats to overheat and eventually ruin them.
Your idea that the O2's getting carboned-up and causing the EEC to dump in more fuel, I'm having trouble with that theory. The O2 measures the difference in oxygen content between the exhaust and the ambient air. A big difference means rich and a small difference means lean. If the sensor is carboned over so it can't sense anything, this would be a big difference and the EEC would cut back on the fuel.
KOER does change the idle speed as part of it's tests.
Check your fuel pressure. The no vacuum pressure is 39 psi.
Did you stop the KOER before it finished? It post the engine code, 4 for 8cyl engine, then runs the tests. If the tests found no problems it should have posted code 11.
You will be "over fueling" if the vacuum is not getting to the fuel pressure regulator. As the vacuum goes up, the fuel pressure is supposed to go down.
Code 18 R SPOUT c°ircuit open during self test (Check the jumper plug) Code 18 M Loss of signal from coil negative, Ignition diagnostic monitor. Or spout grounded.
code 21 O&R ECT out of test range. To pass test, coolant temp must be: KOEO- 50° F to 240° F KOER- 180° F to 240° F Code 41 R Right O2 sensor shows lean Code 41 M Right O2 sensor not switching (stays lean for 15 seconds or more) Code 42 R Right O2 sensor shows rich Code 42 M Right O2 sensor not switching (stays rich for 15 seconds or more) Code 91 R Left O2 sensor shows lean Code 91 M Left O2 sensor not switching (Stays lean for 15 seconds or more) Code 92 R Left O2 sensor shows rich Code 92 M Left O2 sensor not switching (Stays rich for 15 seconds or longer)
I was too quick to jump on the ECT as your cause of running rich. First we have to sort out when you got the codes. The codes can have different meanings depending on when you got them. For example, if you only got the 21 code from KOER, it means you didn't warm up the engine before running the test.
KOEO (Key On Engine Off) Memory KOER (Key On Engine Running)
KOEO runs self tests then presents on-demand codes (O). After a single separator pulse. presents memory codes(M). KOER presents an engine code, 4 for 8 cylinder. Then runs tests and presents running codes(R).
I would check the ECT first. It will have a 2 wire connecter. BK/W and LG/Y wires. If the one of the wires is broke, this will indicate to the EEC that the engine is super cold.
The ECT resistance range needed to pass the KOEO test : 50°F = 58.75 K ohms, 220° F = 1.84 K ohms.