The fuses have two test points that can be probed with a test light. No power to either test point: Problem is upstream from the fuse. Power to just one test point: Fuse is blown. Power to both test points: Problem is down stream from the fuse.
The test light probe is sharp enough to pierce the wire insulation for further testing.
Thanks. I found some pics and it looks like they have some locker pre-applied to them. I guess that stuff is only single use. I Checked the 84 shop manual and they say the same abount the steering wheel nut.Replace it.
So I went out to the car and the battery was dead. I hooked up the jump box and didn't even try to start. Got out to cables and something was visibly on fire under the intake manifold near the rear bell housing.
Shut off the jump box and pulled the cable. I was able to blow out the visible flames. But I am at a complete loss. I've never had a car catch on fire, and the only wiring I could see In the area was the o2 sensor harness. Fuseable links don't appear to be melted. I am not going to have a chance to mess with it until next weekend. Gotta be in bed by 8 and up by 4:30 in the morning for work
The O2 heater should only have power when the ignition switch is in RUN. May want to check the condition of the ignition switch. The fuse link is the ignition switch power.
Trying to avoid going the same rabbit hole of two years ago. The starting point should be to use the tools that are built into the EEC. If the KOEO shows no fault codes and also no code 11 to indicate the test ran successfully. this is where the trouble shooting should begin. I don't know if you have ever run the self tests or if you are still relying on what the mechanic said 2yrs ago.
If you are willing to acquire some basic tools. and willing to learn, I am willing to try to help.
Unfortunately not, when I turn the dimmer switch wheel the lights remain out. It only happens when the headlights are turned on, when they are off the digital instrument cluster is fully lit.
Sorry, I thought when you said the cluster was dim you meant on but not bright. If none of the dash lights up with parking lights or headlights on, check fuse 13. See post 5 in this thread for the fuse panel diagram.
What method are you using to pull codes? There should always be some codes. The KOEO (Key On Engine Off) self test will test the sensor inputs to the EEC. If it finds a sensor out of specs it will post a fault code. If it successfully completes the tests without finding any faults it will post a nofaults code.
I dove back into this issue and I made a discovery: the headlight switch gets really hot. Like hot enough that the coil for the rheostat was glowing. I'm not a genius, but if its getting that hot, that means its pulling a lot of current. So guess i'll be ordering a new headlight switch.
The rheostat is the dimmer control. Drawing that much current, you should be blowing fuse 13 again. Just turn the parking lights on. This will get the headlights out of the picture and still power the dimmer control. Pull fuse 13. Does the rheostat still overheat? If not, are you sure that fuse is only a 5 amp?
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Does the battery still measure 8v across the batt terminals? 2. If so, hook the negative cable of your jump box to the disconnected battery cable. Hook the positive jump box to the positive battery. This will take the battery out of the picture. Try to crank it.