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Topic: BlueBird (Read 39765 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: BlueBird

Reply #240
And today, I mounted the hydroboost

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gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

Re: BlueBird

Reply #241
I snagged the P/S cooler loop from the crashed Mustang core support and fitted it around the Fox condenser

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Then I threw parts at the left side of the engine bay until I found locations that would allow everything to cohabitate

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gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

Re: BlueBird

Reply #242
So if you do not mind, what is the measurement from the pivot point to the dowel pin on the brake pedal?

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

Re: BlueBird

Reply #243
100% didn't measure anything. I used info Hidley posted in bodyman's thread as a general reference for where I needed to go, then I picked one stud on the hydroboost that made sense for locating the unit as a whole, and relocated the pin accordingly.  :crazy:
...
I think you are going to have one problem with the hydroboost installation. All of the 1987-88 T-Birds have a 3.5:1 pedal ratio. That is the pedal pad moves 3.5 units for each unit that it pushes the m/c pushrod. I do not have the data for your 1985 2.3l turbo, but I assume it is the same. You can check you pedal ratio be measuring the physical brake pedal dimensions and dividing one by the other.

The Mustang that you pulled the hydroboost unit from has a pedal ratio of 4.75:1.

Since you appear to have connected the hydroboost unit pushrod to the 3.5:1 pedal pin, the required pedal effort and travel is going to be quite a bit different than what Ford designed. The brake pedal effort is going to be 36% (4.75/3.5) higher. The travel at the pedal pad is going to be reduced by the same amount.

To correctly fix this, the pin on the brake pedal should be moved upwards slightly less than 1" (0.97") and the hydroboost unit should be raised on the firewall to correctly align the pushrod so it is straight.
...
gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

Re: BlueBird

Reply #244
That is what I needed and thank you.

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

 

Re: BlueBird

Reply #245
Dumb question but why not just use the hydroboost pedal?
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Re: BlueBird

Reply #246
The SN95 pedal assembly might fit our cars but I do not know for sure. If they fit a Fox Mustang then I would be highly confident it would work.

Trying to make the brake pedal fit a Fox upper assembly might not work.

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

Re: BlueBird

Reply #247
The sn95 pedal box is different and not a direct bolt in for a Fox. I sold the set I had before I ever compared swapping the brake pedal itself into a Fox pedal box.
gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

Re: BlueBird

Reply #248
I had looked at using a SN95 pedal assembly because the spacing for the clutch is further out.
Here's the thread I saw about doing the conversion:
https://www.modularfords.com/threads/109943-How-to-use-Cobra-(SN95)-pedals-in-fox
1988 Thunderbird TC, 5spd
Stinger 3" single exhaust, Cone Filter, Adjustable Cam Pulley, Schneider roller cam, Walbro 255 lph, AEM Wideband O2
'93 Mustang Cobra replica wheels on 235/50R17

'21 F150 Powerboost
'17 Husqvarna TX300

Re: BlueBird

Reply #249
I have spent the last couple weeks of shop time chasing myself around in circles, starting 15 different tasks, but not getting much of anything finished.

  • Two new hydroboost lines installed, third one repaired(return line is NLA)
  • Fit the '97 PCM in the stock location and installed the main harness
  • Laid the rest of the engine bay wiring in for mockup, scoured EVTMs to begin interfacing 1997 wires into 1987 car
  • Removed new wiring harness and set aside to clean and pare down later
  • Junkyard run for injectors and a handful of bits that were smashed in the crash
  • Began disassembly of the engine for cleaning
  • Sidetracked into mocking up new coolant pipes for the heater core
  • Cleaned lots of battery acid induced corrosion off of engine bits

None of this really makes good pics, but I took one today after the first valve cover was finished
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Also note the new injectors installed in the intake on the far right. The PO of this engine had swapped out the OE 24lb injectors for stock 2v 19lb units to keep the GT PCM happy. It ran OK with this set up but was clearly handicapped by the GT maps and rev limiter. These are GM 36lb injectors from the Series II 3800. They should run about 33lb at Ford rail pressure and provide plenty of fuel to get a good tune on this mild combo.

I am about out of patience for cleaning, and I need a big visual marker to boost motivation. Paint the k-member, run some brake lines, trim the shifter hole, and cut out some spacers for k-member mounting. Then, I should be able to stuff the drivetrain into the car all clean and pretty.

...and circle back for the wiring I put aside....
gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

Re: BlueBird

Reply #250
Progress is progress, even if you can't see huge results!  :like:
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo

Re: BlueBird

Reply #251
Clean enough for driver status. Parts mock up

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gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

Re: BlueBird

Reply #252
That thing is a chunker.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo

Re: BlueBird

Reply #253
Pulled the Kmember free of the engine, broke out the pressure washer, and them slathered on a couple coats of Ford Grey tractor paint

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While that cured, I started on the brake lines. This one is almost done, and the other two are less complex, so maybe I can have the brake lines all wrapped up on Sunday.

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gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

Re: BlueBird

Reply #254
Toight!

What material are those lines?
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo