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Engine Tech / Re: Proper injectors for stock Speed Density 5.0
Last post by TheFoeYouKnow -
That's a really good article.  If you do the bench test, be certain the output not only scales down, but does so with accuracy vs the table in the article.  It's a good idea to put vacuum to the sensor, and just check to make sure it HOLDS that vacuum for several minutes, because if it's leaking, it will give an inaccurate output.
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Engine Tech / Re: Proper injectors for stock Speed Density 5.0
Last post by TheFoeYouKnow -
That you clear keep alive memory, then get 10 good minutes says that your fuel trim adaptive is biasing rich. Super rich. Since your load sensor is the map, and probably the primary sensor for establishing fuel adaptation, I'd start there. You have no way of monitoring the output of this sensor, and if you had the live data value, I'm not sure reference data is available. The hard fact is that you have no way to test the output vs actual vacuum. If live data were available in parameter form, you'd compare it to an actual vacuum gauge. You need a known good sensor and a another 12v reset. You can also check for vacuum leaks, but based on the magnitude of your error, it would have to be a big one.
I believe it's likely that your MAP is reporting less vacuum than actual. Keep in mind that the MAP itself can be leaking vacuum internally.
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Engine Tech / Re: Proper injectors for stock Speed Density 5.0
Last post by Driverguy -
Also, further to the question about how I deleted the smog system, I removed the steel pipe to the back of the cylinder heads, cleaned out the threads the best i could with a 5/8 tap and brake clean, and plugged the holes with bolts and high heat thread sealant.  I removed the pump/bracketry, and shortened the serpentine belt.  I removed the hoses and air diverter solenoids, but I did NOT disconnect the 2 vacuum solenoids on the cowl behind the strut tower; I left them plugged into their harnesses, left the vacuum lines connected, and simply capped off the lines that used to go to the air diverter solenoids.  I assumed it would be better to leave them plugged in and connected to vacuum, so the computer didn't register them as missing/defective, was I wrong?
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Engine Tech / Re: Proper injectors for stock Speed Density 5.0
Last post by Driverguy -
Sorry I've been absent from this thread for the last few months, been caught up in another project.

I decided to test my exhaust/cats/O2 sensor theory a few weeks ago, mostly because I wanted to upgrade anyway.  I put headers on, 2 high-flow cats, 2 new O2 sensors, and an X-pipe, and took out each of my plugs, cleaned off the fouling, and re-installed.  Also disconnected the battery for a few days so the computer could reset itself. 

Ran the car for about 20 minutes today; for the first 10 minutes it ran fine, then it started spitting, which I could hear easily because I don't have mufflers on yet.  Then, a few minutes later, it started surging again.  No CEL, and it didn't stall, but still surging nearly as bad as before. 

My theory now is that it was still running rich, and took 10 minutes to foul up the plugs again and start really running poorly again.

My next ideas are to use brake clean/carb cleaner to test for vacuum leaks (although I checked the vacuum pressure, why not try anyways), and change plug wires (I put a high-end MSD coil on it last year to try to solve the problem, but i still have stock motorcraft 7mm wires, perhaps they are old and/or can't handle the hot spark from the uprated coil)

I'm hearing the MAP sensor come up often in your recent replies, is it something I should consider testing/replacing?
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User Rides / Re: New Addition
Last post by 85CougarCobra -
Quote
The car looks great!
  Thank you!

Kept the nice original grille and put it away for now, had a spare that had been roughed up over the years ... painted that body color with blacked out mesh.  Got that installed and the front end is pretty much locked in now.  Put a nice junkyard headlight harness in ... the original was breaking down around the starter relay and alternator areas.  Got that all cleaned, new loom, and tested.
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Engine Tech / Re: after market Dizzy FYI *** IMPORTANT READ
Last post by Aerocoupe -
The Cardone remanufactured units are really good as far as I know.  The one that comes with the TFI chip is P/N 842892MA.  They do not have lifetime warranties but I would bet the quality is a lot better than the AutoZone house brand.
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User Rides / Re: New Addition
Last post by 85CougarCobra -
Good progress this weekend, got all of the stuff inside the fenders taken care of and the front end pretty much squared away.  It's always time consuming getting body panels to space out evenly.  Still need to "fine tune" a few spots but got the fenders, hood, bumper, and header panel all reinstalled.
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Engine Tech / Re: after market Dizzy FYI *** IMPORTANT READ
Last post by Mikey97D -
The location of the gear is very important and it's a good idea to check side by side dizzy's before exchanging on the location.  If you have the chance to get one from the local yard whether good or bad electronically, it may be a good idea to grab it as a visual check.

Although the spring pin hole may offer a quick check, the location of the teeth is what matters.  The location of the spring pin hole for the gear and distributor shaft may differ but the teeth location must be the same.

Thanks JC for the heads up!