Im pretty sure im only on my second windshield since i got this car in 1990.
there are soooooooo many tiny little scratches from days gone by that i have a hard time seeing when the sun is just right . I guess the billions of tiny little scratches are from general wear and tear.
anyone know how to buff this windsheld back to life? could i use buffing compound of a fine grit? or am i way off. I dont need a new windshield ,,,humm or do i?
I forgot to mention what i did when i had my CFI off a few days ago.
this would apply only to CFI folks.
I have deleted my egr sys as well as the need for the gold vac fitting on the driver side rear of cfi all together but thats a different story so inquire about that if you want.
this is for a new shape gasket that simply cuts off the egr port way down at the intake.
remove the cfi and cfi spacer gasket remove the lower egr plate make a new gasket that lookes exactly like this. If you notice, it will end up covering a small hole that the egr gets is source from. You will end up sealing off this port all together. IF you make this gasket, you can then remove the egr valve and install gasket and plate from you own spare parts bin.
when you cut your gasket, it should look pretty much like the one below. Just cut the outter shape and then cut the two holes for the trottle plates, thats it. Now compare that to the one they sell you and you'll see what i mean. there's too much emission stuff factored in to the bottom side of the cfi and that thin ass narrow gasket just does not cut it.
the X represents the area that is the creator of all the carbon build up in the base of the cfi and can be blocked off. I dreamed up a way to get rid of this plate all together but it involves epoxy and an aluminum spacer plate. do not cut your gasket for the area outlined in red,, only the ouline in black should represent the actual gasket shape. the object is to block off this hole.
do dishes for the wife get the boys to get rid of the mess in the living room pull out the ham from the freezer for tomorrows dinner start a fire in the garage clean out the fireplace in the house start a fire in the house fireplace
then some fun
im gonna shim up my valve springs on my 6cyl. ill let you all know what happens after i test drive it.
I plan on using a home made tool to pry up on the lower part of the spring then slip in my horse shoe shaped shims i need to finish making. they MIC out at about .035'' thick.
any advice , it will be a while before i get to my fun but in the meantime, if anyone has a input, id appreciate it.
has anyone ever tinkered with the octane rod on the distributor? it seems you could use this to adjust the stator assy in the distributor to time when the armature does its thing but ive never messed with it.
well, per the above link, i have chased this problem for several months now and its fixed thank goodness :)
my egr base plate gasket was ,i guess, all fuggerd up. It was new from my rebuild but upon separation, the paper gasket supplied by the kit just fell apart.
mystery to consider i sprayed carb cleaner along the seems of my cfi to detect a vac leak and no change in engine rpm.
i hooked a vac guage up to the car and had a solid 17 or so psi. WOT dropped it to zero but i shot right back up to 17 there abouts.
I checked the tps several times but this last time i checked it with a light bulb which was kind of neat. you could see the light getting brighter and brighter ect.
i check my fuel pump presure and wiring
i checked my engine bay harness
i checked my alternator
i checked my rear differential a while back
i checked the HVAC system in the dash
i check and checked and checked then yesterday i said screw it and did a tune up.
as i stared at the cfi, i decided to pull it off so i could determine my options for deleting the CFI EGR aluminum base plate.
i found a couple britttle pieces of the paper gasket separated and cracked so i replaced it and all is well.
Car now is back to liking 38psi fuel presure exactly and pulls constantly in passing gear like its suppose to do.
MY THEORY on why i could not detect a vac leak the vac leak was small enough that carb cleaner would not make it stand out.
the vac leak was large enough that when i put the added load on the engine by calling on the power steering pump that it would stumble like a sommmbeyyyoch.
Microwave went bad, it would do everythng needed except make things HOT All functions worked except for this so out to the workbench she goes. It went bad directly after heating up a frozen dinner for 35min. I thought ,humm, might be an easy problem to find.
I could not see anything burnt up and after checking switches i went to checkt he output of the transfromer which was connected to a .9uf capacitor. something told me to back off when the rating was 2100v but my meter was stamped to a rating of 2500v. the large capacitor charged / discharged with my meter set on ohms while i isolated it and read across both terminals. Im pretty certain the magnetron is bad cause the txfmr seemed to have output.
I gator clipped my ground lead to chassis ground and used the red to probe (ie-one hand troubleshooting keeps you safe). As my hot lead got close to the capacitor, a arch of electricity jumped from my meter to the cap.
Im not sure what is broke in my meter cause all the settings just show numbers that climb up then go back down. DC v setting just shows ZERO and does not change when hooked to a car bat. the diode function constantly goes beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep when diode setting is selected and meter leads not touching eachother.
you can pretty much tell the microwave was made during an era of pride in work. Manuf date 12/81, made by GE. Made in america,, full schematic specific to my model ect. inside had no rust along the seams like the newer ones get in just a couple years time. RIP oh great nucozapper, your gonna get stipped for all the cool parts you got. hehe me gonna be playing around with that transformer to rig up a mini welder with the help of a high wattage recitifier and thats about it.
this sux cause im still chasing my bucking issue on the cougar and this is my only meter. I need to check my tps again for an open, maybe ill use a small light bulb in place of the meter, it should be real dim but increase with intensity as i move the linkage or go out completely if there is a slight open.
just great,, and not chance of getting a new one anytime soon with money how it is around here for the past year and a half.
two blonde chicks laying on the beach at night. one looks up and at the moon. she asks the other blonde , do you think florida is closer to us than the moon?
second blonde slaps first blonde in the forehead and says......
i grab my drive shaft where is comes out of the tailshaft of the tranny and there is a lot of play. Im gonna keep putting this off till one day i see smoke pouring out the rearvew mirror.
the bushings are very cheap but i cant seem to find em on the shelf anywhere.
for anyone who's like "wtf is this guy talking about" the tail shaft bushing is what your yoke on the drive shaft spins against while it turns. when this shim gets worn,, you will have a vibration and noise that sounds like its coming from the center of the car.
My oldest boy mason who is 12 has been messing around with melting aluminum in his homemade forge. Yesterday he must have made an error in trying to warm up in the garage.
I have an duplex outlet mounted on the cieling right beside one of my overhead lights. one plug in usually powers my cieling mounted heater. one powers my self winding / retracting shop light cord.
there is a 3way adaptor on the end of my shop light cord and mason decided to plug up the heater to that.
today,,,im needing the shop light so i grab the cord but notice the heater is hooked up to it,,im like WTF!!! I unplug it and plug it in to the receptical where it belongs. I pull on the cord leading it to my cougar cause im doing my yearly tranny filter change. Suddenly smoke pours out of the little round black thing a ma jig that winds up the cord. I notice that the outter jacket on my cord is melted everywhere.
the guage wire in the shop light cord is the same guage as what the heater is so im like,, what when wrong here..... It then dawned on me..
anytime you run electricity in circles that many turns,, it will give off heat and magnetism. I guess he suceeded in two things today....
he melted aluminium with a wood source and created a resistor or inductor
all i know is im lucky the garage did not catch on fire.
Ok while waiting for a light to turn green my car suddenly lurches forward as though i pressed the gas but i did not.
this really has me bothered and makes me wonder how related it is to the bucking in right / left turns.
could a power booster cause this since my foot was on the brake?
scared the outa me cause i was luckly 10 or so feet behind the other car. Quickly i threw it into N and when it was time i dropped it back to drive. Never happened again this afternoon but this morning when it did, i almost wanted to park it for safety reasons. If something happens like this even once,,it worth parking in my book till the problem is found.
All functions worked except for this so out to the workbench she goes. It went bad directly after heating up a frozen dinner for 35min. I thought ,humm, might be an easy problem to find.
hehe me gonna be playing around with that transformer to rig up a mini welder with the help of a high wattage recitifier and thats about it.