this is a minerva tropic master 8 tube radio. i wanted a meter to give me a visual indication that i was exactly on a station so this was my solution. i used only the needle/pointer system out of a cheapy 9$ buttstuffog meter.
links here to vids of my testing out the theory and a final vid showing it in use.
EASTERN CATALYTIC 30243 (combo "Y" pipe and catalytic together **eliminates both "pre-cats" !!! good ! ** this part requires minor BFH mod to clear your transmission cross member. A few bashes after you gut it and its all good. **this part has excessively thick s, they are so thick that they barely accommodate your existing manifold stud length. **i had to run my bandsaw laterally on the passanger side to finally be able to install the two nuts, basically making them a tad "thinner". (normally) larger s are a good thing but not in this case. **this cat very easy to gut **header "Bell" shape matched perfect. **cat to intermediate mating are "BALL/Bell" and match perfect,, no gasket req'd. darn near a perfect match with small minor mods.
WALKER 43907 Pipe, intermediate **does not come with a ,, so get one or reuse your old if you want. **the shape sorta "dips" "down" a tad lower than i like, you could manually tune it up a tad in he area of the longest radial. overall perfect match
EVTM 1987 bird/coug Page 60 showing the last section of the EEC pin outs.... the 88evtm may be the same.
I have been working on a resto and finally made it past start up day with my chip and a basic tune to get it running.
i wanted to make time to verify voltage at my TPS green wire KOEO and set up to do that.
i grab the connector and notice the chassis side harness (from the Computer), the color code of the wiring was not matching my blk/org/grn color coding of the tps. i dd a double take and started to worry.
I was forced to extract the computer and go to the two pins i can account for and verify continuity which were 47 and 26. for the designated blk/wht, i toned out and found no issue other than color..
so... for my tps it goes like this
wht/rd ends up becoming my Blk/wht wire somewhere
Gray/wht ends up becoming Dk G / Lt G at pin 47 of the eec Brn / wht ends up becoming Org/wht at pin 26 of the eec.
Has anyone noticed this issue around the EGR/TPS/Map sensor circuit?
This EEC harness came from an 87 5.0L cougar out of a junk yard up in pa that replaced my former CFI 3.8L EEC harness. I had no reason to question it other than inspect it as best as possible before installing. I did not notice this TPS wire color issue then.
this EEC harness has nothing to do with the fuse box harness grafting work i did to upgrade it as well to a 5.0L application.
I really need opinions.
I am testing for the presence of 5v and less than a volt on the TPS center tap in in a few.
the first pic is the MAP sensor connector.
the second pic is the EGR (left ) and TPS (right) connectors.
I think two things................... this was an assembly line screw up that was "made to work" or Ford had a short fall on certain color wires during that day and used what they had. at the end of the day,, if it has continuity to where it belongs,, it will work, i just need to dospoogeent it in my son's EVTM.
are you guys cutting your tail pipes before the axle and making the tubing height adjustable there?
i am finding it very difficult to use off the shelf 2 1/2 '' exhaust tubing a big challenge to make it over the rear axles without bumping into things.
i end up with almost a finger width of room in any direction.
in my situation i converted an originally equipped 3.8L 1987 coug fully to a 5.0L MAF car. Interior is empty for now. i turned my key forward in order to test that i hear my fuel pump.... Nothing... but i did hear an audible "pop"
i checked all fuses and they are good.
i isolate down to the fact i have two hot legs arriving into the eec power relay. the ground on the control or coil side has continuity to chassis.
the relay will not energize while its plugged in.
i remove the relay and manually power it up... it does not
i inspect the circuit board and see nothing odd.
on the circuit board i find the two pads where the coil ties in at. i add the correct polarity dc power there and the relay clicks. oddly the problem is from the connector up to the coil.. and that area is kinda burred.
since i heard a pop,,,, and can easily risk blowing up a new relay,, i have an idea....
extract the wires from the relay socket. install a resetable circuit breaker fuse across the trigger/ control/ coil wires.
install a resetable circuit breaker fuse across the contacts side of the relay
turn key forward and if all is well my breakers stay closed and the fuel pump relay can now do its thing to power up the pump......
thoughts on this???????????????
i need a new eec relay if anyone has one.
here is a pic of my eec relay mod where i relocated it prior to it failing.
this weekend the oldest boy is in to install various parts to replace his exhaust that came with the car when we bought it from Privateer member here..
2 1/2'' pass side ready to be mated to a store bought 2 1/2'' axle pre-bent pipe.
we need to repeat this layout on the drivers side
get everything hung and then mark for the H pipe just a little bit to the rear of the trans mount.
add qty 2 bungs for O2 sensors on the pass or driver side. add qty 1 bung for the other side. this allows for a future wide band 02 when the eec is chipped.
all welds need cleaned up but so far its seems to be going ok.
the cats are fake.
apparently in VA his old "turbo chambered" lers were not legal, yet this fiberglass cherry bomb design is!
looking to two options to build exhaust for 5.0L 331 stroker I have SS 2 1/2'' shorty
i need everything from the shorty on back.
opt 1 buy rock auto stuff for 87 Linc towncar -has 2'' hPipe and everything else
opt 2 purchase JD Squared https://www.jd2.com/model-32-bender which makes manually bending 2 1/2 pipe easy for diy use. allows me to custom bend pipe from now on.
question- for all the theories and facts about savaging ect, if stock 2'' hpipe is used, would this be sufficient for my 331 since "both" pipes are being shared by way of the 2'' h pipe? meaning i have both 2'' pipes in the exhaust game ,, seems like separate 2 1/2'' pipes is smaller than 2 ) 2'' pipes with an integrated H pipe.
i would rather buy bolt on stuff than to bend up pipe on my own. i think i will have the same amount of money in both options,, and with option 2 i have a new cool tool
