i have a few treated "things",, lying around. Most noteworthy is one of my 10'' long spiral spikes.
its appearance is just as it was from when i treated it many moons ago.
you can purchase a gallon of concentrated "food grade" phosphoric acid from amazon for around 85$ US. thats pretty much al you'd prob need for years.
Also,,, although this is kinda breaking the rules in neumistics,,, but i usea sonic cleaner on coins with 1/4 of a shot glass of phos acid to 2qts of water,,, then run the sonic cleaner. this makes all the coins appear to quaify at a higher grade especially when the coin itself has very low circulation characteristics.
i am going to do another vid on this topic because i like this topic and also to promote a cost affective way of killing rust to common folk. My origial mission is the same then as it is now. Find a product that removes rust with the "least amount of effort with the maximum amount of results".
i find this topic so frustrating sometimes. so ,,,, recently i am on youtube and see a adam savage vid on evaporust. long story short,, you actually watch him intentionally misrepresent a product in order to elevate it into something it is not.
i found his review of evaporust to be a flat out lie. you actually experience him struggling with the lie but,, like a tropper in lockstep with some sort of cult like trance,, he pushes you to drink the coolaid to!.
I normally have nothing bad to say about this guy and / or the entertaining work he has provided so many across the planet to expose us to science. After watching this on his personal youtube channel,, i now question his character and truthfulness to us, his viewers. there are a lot of us who actually count on smarter folks to show us "how its dun",,
so, in retaliation to his vid,, i am going to do another one of my phosphoric acid vids and i am calling out Adam in a negative light for pushing this product.
He actually shows you at the end the product never even worked,,,, so he expains that you gotta get your wire brush out and clean off the rust.
My approach to killing rust is more on point with what people are looking for. My mission (now complete) was to find a product with the least amount of negative environmental impact, least heath risks producing the the maximum amount of results with the least amount of effort.
thats exactly what i would've done, home grown solution. i like this thread.
btw, i had no idea this car had factory dual snorkle air cleaner.
i know you mentioned tossing the cfi stuff but.. investigate the 351 80's/90's bronco or trucks. those eec's may be the power adder solution rather than grooming in a new eec harness. all the truck eecs i mention only have two injector pin outs which is what you have now on that car.
everything about the dizzy itself appears to be correct. the only difference is the hole that was drilled for the dizzy gear roll pin. that hole is further down the shaft.
this problem dizzy is already back into the autozone system as an exchange for a new one.
this issue is going to be really hard to detect and i guess the only way you will know is when you drop it in the hole and notice that you have an ever so slight gap between the engine block and the dizzy base.
my son is dealing with a lot of dizzy problems like others who have decided to use the box stores and lifetime warranty and so forth. A few years ago his 88bird dizzy when bad and he did a core for a new one. For unknown reasons he seems to end up going through one about every 10 to 14 months. with a reciept its a simple swap at the parts store.
one of the key indicators your after market dizzy is giving you heads up its about to go bad is every so often your car feels like it just missed spark ,, engine may buck once or twice then the issue is gone. This is what mason is seeing happen. On my 1990 Bronco,, since i really dont do many mile per year on it,, i have had an after market dizzy in there and its just now starting to have a minor misfire as well.
getting back on topic. Recenty mason dropped in another dizzy. it went in like normal and all is well but within a 20 or 30 mile test hit, something did not seem right. He got back home and pulled the dizzy. The bottom of the dizzy gear was warn off (the size that faces the engine block "Pad" so to speak where you can see the oil pump drive shaft. Also the gear on the dizzy was jacked up. He is a steel on steel setup due to a new"er" explorer build i did for him a few years ago.
He inspected his cam and it looked like it survived. He mentioned that he seems to recall that when he installed this dizzy, it seemed like the hold down clamp felt different as he tightened it down. It was like the hold down clamp was "pushing the dizzy down into the engine as he turned the bolt. He ordered up a dizzy and dropped it in and all is well to date. He brought this faulty dizzy back home over christmas and i looked at it to confirm my idea was correct.
SO.... here is the meat of it....
CHECK your new dizzy for one particularly important measurement. I had suspected that the only way this could have happened is if the roll pin holding the dizzy gear on the shaft is located futher down the shaft. i compared an oem dizzy to this faulty one and found that his faulty dizzy gear roll pin was about 3/32'' lower than its supposed to be. The damage it caused was the bottom of the dizzy gear ate away at the engine block ear where the dizzy shaft drops into and as well the bottom of the dizzy gear and as a result the dizzy gear teeth themselves.
This caused us to look up specs on an oem 5.0L dizzy and to our surpise there is a huge amount of information on this topic as well as clearnces.
yes all emissions. to cap off and delete, notice the main vac source line being red and a "T" to the round canister near by. that canister i believe needs to stay put. follow your vac line sticker and you will see the colors are going to be in line with what all your years of experience tell you for instance the white and black are smog,, the green being EGR, red being the main vac source, the orange if i recall correctly ends up at the map and at that intake mounted vac diaphram that is totally in the way of a couple intake bolts.
i suggest you lift off the CFI / EGR spacer and chip away at the carbon deposits. Especially on the base of the CFI where the large gold fitting is on the rear drivers side.
also note that the CFI came factory with and adjustable fuel pressure regulator. OEM came with a small freeze plug on top that when drilled out and removed, reveals an allen screw. aftermarket ones "sometimes" had an allen head with a plastic plug to pop out.
one more step to rid yourself of that pita typical CFI issue of hesitation is to rid yourself of the injector screens. purchase from tractor supply the same kind of final filtration system if you like with the 1'' long 1/4'' dia "slip into your line" screen filter. these are found on older carb tractors. just slip it up inside your fuel inlet fitting on the rear of the CFI.
WOW!!! reading all this sounds just like what the year 2020 would be dishing out.
ive said it before,,, these cars are getting to a point where they have exceed all engineering expectations and as time marches on, some of the things we never looked at before are starting to show up as the problem.
so.... put this one on your diy list of things to do.............. replace the three capacitors on your eec mother board sometime soon. even when these caps are somewhat bad, the eec still functions and the only results you get are odd ball intermittent problems.
watch this i did and maybe it will cause you to come up with more information. besides,, you can do this check on your rockers in advance,, assuming your lifters are pumped up. i suggest you do this check with a couple modified lifters making them solid so you dont have the lifter giving in during your check.
I confirmed the green wire potential and yes the green did have source 12 with the key kept in the on pos.
this is normal so,, i have to conclude as well that since its the job of the TFI and PIP to switch on and off the ground potential to the coil (green wire) then the dizzy pieces parts must be the issue.
I will try to find a complete dizzy with "STANDARD" branded tfi and pip.. meaning i want the highest quality / rated as such dizzy money can buy.
TFI is Gray the PIP might be bad as well or going out. we will see.
so....after several days of this problem not showing up ,, it did today.
so with key still i the RUN pos i tested the following.............. -TPS org to blk= 5v =unplug spout and recrank but no spark. -poked at the shrader valve and fuel went everywhere. -confirmed no spark at coil -the red wire at coil had 12v -****i am 80% sure the green wire had zero volt but this confused me because after my tests,,, i went to key off then key back on to retake coil voltage readings. the red had 12v,, the green had 12v. when it breaks again,, i will double down on the green coil trigger wire to see if it actually did hold a zero volt condition
sorry for late updates but i decided to wait till the car failed again... evidently it took a few days.