I'm looking for a set of four 87-88 Turbo Coupe 16"X7" factory Snowflake wheels. Either refinished to new or mint condition (i.e. look brand new). Most wheel refinishers online list one in stock, and I have a feeling they all get it from the same source, so there is probably literally only one for sale. If no one knows of a set or has one they would part with I'll just get the Snowflakes on my car refinished locally. But again if I'm going to buy a set they must be mint or refinished to factory new. Thanks.
So waaaay back in 2006 I had all the seals/o rings in my Thunderbird's AC system replaced and the system filled with R12. It lasted till this week. It leaked out, and being that the A/C components are original to the car I'm planning on swapping everything out to new parts and converting to R134a. I'll be grabbing a brand new compressor, all lines, and a new condenser from Rock Auto. I'm just looking for feedback on how well the system changed over to R134a works.
I'm looking for an 87-88 Thunderbird headliner. I don't care if the fabric is bad as I'll be recovering it. I need an intact, straight board. I have a project in mind and a need a spare board, so I don't screw up the one in my car if it doesn't work how I want. Shipping and keeping the board from bending might be an issue but the local sources have kinda dried up.
"Very clean red 1986 Mercury Cougar with 5.0 V8 and 68,000 miles. New brakes, battery, tires and exhaust. Needs R134a AC conversion - AC does not work, everything else does work. Power locks, windows, cruise and power drivers seat."
So yesterday I was driving my Thunderbird with the A/C on, it was about 90* out, and it was working great. I went to pass someone and when I let off the throttle I noticed that the air from the vents was getting hotter. I pulled over and popped the hood. The A/C compressor was not engaged even with the ECC system set at 60*. Just for fun I tapped the front of the clutch with a screw driver handle. Sure enough the clutch popped in and the system started to blow cold air again. So I knew the clutch was either worn and had excessive gap or the coil is going bad. When I got home I checked the clutch to pulley gap. It's at .030, right on the high side. I decided to pop the clutch off to see if I could adjust the gap. I did so but found that there was only one thick spacer under the clutch. But looking at the clutch face I could see that it was worn. Also the pulley bearing was starting to have a rumbling feeling. I decided at that point that It's time for a new clutch assembly after 30+ years. I had a coupon for Advance Auto and was able to order a new clutch, pulley, and field coil (aka Air Conditioner clutch kit) for $50 shipped. It should be arriving early next week. So I'll be swapping that out and hopefully having fully fictional A/C again, that doesn't require a love tap from a screw driver.
I'll take some pictures along the way, just in case anyone else wants to tackle the job.
It's, uh, interesting? GST body kit. That color combo....
See more pics at CODYSCLASSICCARS.COM
One Owner Custom Cougar - Excellent condition with only 78k original miles! Garage kept and serviced every 3k miles since new. Custom made ground effects, full spoke wheels with raised white letter tires, spoiler and unique one of a kind paint job makes this multiple trophy winner a stand out on the street and at the shows. Original interior in great shape and the solid V6 drive train runs great. Custom dual exhaust gives this car a unique growl that turns heads. Must be seen to be appreciated. Shown by appointment only. Please contact us for more info, or to make a reasonable offer and make this one yours.
So last night I took the Thunderbird out for it's last ride of the season. Topped off the tank, added some Stabil, and drove around for 20 minutes to circulate the Stabil through the fuel system. So when I got back home I rolled the driver's side window down (it was about 39* out) before backing into the garage. When I went to roll the window up I noticed it went up about half way and stopped. I could roll it back down fine, but it would only go half way up. I looked closer and, even though the window went up horizontally level, the rear of the glass was popping out of the rear part of the window channel, causing it to jam half way up. I was able, with light pressure, to pop the back of the window into the channel and then it went the rest of the way up fine. I rolled the window up and down several times with the same result after figuring out the "pop it back in trick".
So does this sound like the infamous window clip glue issue? If so I'm guessing the rear clip let go, which is causing the window to shift around on the channel. The window worked fine all summer so I'm pretty sure I can safely assume that the window regulator/channel is fine. From the searching I've done on here either ultra black RTV or 3M window adhesive is recommended as a fix.
So one of the things I miss from my Mark VII LSC is the Marchal fog lamps. I'm toying with the idea of adding them to my Thunderbird as a kind of period correct modification. I know I'd have to fab up some kind of mounting bracket for it to work. I also do not want to cut any holes in the bumper cover, especially since the car was just painted this year. Is this even feasible or is it going to look like ass?