my son is dealing with a lot of dizzy problems like others who have decided to use the box stores and lifetime warranty and so forth. A few years ago his 88bird dizzy when bad and he did a core for a new one. For unknown reasons he seems to end up going through one about every 10 to 14 months. with a reciept its a simple swap at the parts store.
one of the key indicators your after market dizzy is giving you heads up its about to go bad is every so often your car feels like it just missed spark ,, engine may buck once or twice then the issue is gone. This is what mason is seeing happen. On my 1990 Bronco,, since i really dont do many mile per year on it,, i have had an after market dizzy in there and its just now starting to have a minor misfire as well.
getting back on topic. Recenty mason dropped in another dizzy. it went in like normal and all is well but within a 20 or 30 mile test hit, something did not seem right. He got back home and pulled the dizzy. The bottom of the dizzy gear was warn off (the size that faces the engine block "Pad" so to speak where you can see the oil pump drive shaft. Also the gear on the dizzy was jacked up. He is a steel on steel setup due to a new"er" explorer build i did for him a few years ago.
He inspected his cam and it looked like it survived. He mentioned that he seems to recall that when he installed this dizzy, it seemed like the hold down clamp felt different as he tightened it down. It was like the hold down clamp was "pushing the dizzy down into the engine as he turned the bolt. He ordered up a dizzy and dropped it in and all is well to date. He brought this faulty dizzy back home over christmas and i looked at it to confirm my idea was correct.
SO.... here is the meat of it....
CHECK your new dizzy for one particularly important measurement. I had suspected that the only way this could have happened is if the roll pin holding the dizzy gear on the shaft is located futher down the shaft. i compared an oem dizzy to this faulty one and found that his faulty dizzy gear roll pin was about 3/32'' lower than its supposed to be. The damage it caused was the bottom of the dizzy gear ate away at the engine block ear where the dizzy shaft drops into and as well the bottom of the dizzy gear and as a result the dizzy gear teeth themselves.
This caused us to look up specs on an oem 5.0L dizzy and to our surpise there is a huge amount of information on this topic as well as clearnces.
symptom. - while driving engine will shut down. -no loss of power to the IP, clock, warning indicators or speedo or elsewhere during the event of engine stop. There is no warning of hesitation,, not bucking prior to the event,, no odd "feels" to speak of. Its like someone just unplugged the car from the outllet,, it simply goes quiet in the cabin except for any accessory i may have on. My tach does got to zero though (the 87 20th is the full digi cluster for those who dont know. -I can not while coasting simply go to N and restart. -I must coast over to the side, put car in P,,, turn Ign sw off then restart which it does each time. -I do need to confirm if my fuel pump relay is loosing its trigger sig from the EEC or its high current contact power delivery,,, but i dont think so. The fuel rail does not seem to "sound" like its repriming when i turn the key from off to forward again,, trust me i know what that sounds like.
troubleshooting.... -yesterday i confirmed something. I coasted to the side of the road, put car in P, kept the ign sw in the run pos, popped the hood and removed the coil spark plug wire. I reached into the car and rotated the Key Sw from run to start and as the motor is turning over , the coil is not sparking to the car or anywhere. If i rotate the ign sw to the off pos then crank, sparks fly everywhere. So.... i put the coil plug wire back on and start up and go about my day. This is hapening without regard to engine temp, moisture outside, outside temp or anything,,, its just random and seems as though it only happens once or twice during a driving period of time. **Simply put,,,, engine spark will remain absent until i rotate the key sw back to the OFF pos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! -while driving i have beat the hell out of the steering col , inst cluster as well as wiggle tested harnesses within reach and no results.
Comments............. A few months back i noticed that when i first start the car up, i can not tune into any AM stations for my regular Glenn Beck,, Rush L or Hanity shows. The signal is totally washed out by engine noise ,, not static or anything ,, just a constant whine high pitch. Eventually over the course of 15 or so min, the signal is clear enough to listen to but ,,,, its like only 70% there with 30% engine noise. Normally when i have an intermittent what appears to be electrical issues, i tune into an AM station with KeyON Eng OFF or KeyON Eng Running and perform wiggle tests on various connections while listening for voltage / current static induced by my interrupting any possible bad connections. This helps me quickly narrow down particular circuits that otherwise an EVTM may not as quickly reveal.
So.. the reason i bring this up.............. Yesterday when i started my short trip,, my radio was acting up as it normally does but soon the AM band cleared up for the most part. When i had my loss of spark,,,,, and did my prior mentioned test...... when i got restarted instantly,, the radio AM station was back to 100% washed out by engine whine or noise. It soon cleared up again.
Final thought........................... My son's 88 5.0L bird is doing the exact same thing.
Conclusion..... Although i have not pulled codes yet,,, what i am starting to think is that perhaps my computer has reached the end of its life or is getting there. ,, or Maybe that diode that appears near the coil is faulty and is over clocking an EEC chip or over charging one of the 3 electrolytic caps on the EEC PCB,, or ...... nevermind.
SO,,, thoughts on this very odd problem which simply fixes itself ??????????????
we've got about 2300$ in the interior rework all in boxes ready to install but have body work to do. its not all that bad but the typical day at the office for any VW fan. this is the wifes daily driver we are working on. once the inside is done along with interior color change, i will move on to exterior painting.
here is my youtube channel... on this car .
If and when you get to part 6,, i have a couple tech questions that are going to need addressed prior to wrapping up the inside.
i think with a full body rubber kit (thats what they call it) for 600$ and paint stuff at around 500$.. that should call it a wrap for this shade tree mech resto work. I am taking my first crack at phosphoric acid being used as a rust remover so i will be testing that out and posting the results. The price point on "food grade" phosphoric acid is much better and since we are going to need to reduce it,,, i may end up with 2 gallons of somewhat safe to handle rust dissolving agent.
I come to the site i look at new notifications..... ok ,, i get it now.. the notifications is saying people have comments to a thead of mine. Its a useless feature if you ask me... however....
i go to my thread i read the comments and move on.
i keep on seeing new notifications pertaining to a thread i already viewed.
it appears this new board is set up where you have to manually acknowledge each individual notification by not going to the thread but you must go to a different tab called notifications to make it stop.
seems features like this are likely tied to facebook or something.....?
if we we are expected tolerate the fact that 66.6% of all information from nearly a 1/4 of a century and over 2 thousand years of combined knowledge become missing,, the moving parts we have now should not be in error to this level of simplicity. If i read a thread, my notifications should "self manage",, thats why we went to all this new social media platform,, right..? its supposed to be superior to everything else.
What we have now is a board with words... and no supporting substance.
88tbird Maf, A9P 306, 21lb inj, GT40 heads, Professional products Upper & lower. car has hi/low beam mod where when the hi beams are seleted the low beams remain on. Car runs a lot of led conversion lighting in either bulbs or led lighting strips along the bottoms of the doors... which are off when the doors are closed.
Issue-- while at speed, the engine will shut down for a time frame of less than a second to a max of a couple seconds then recover. This situation is more re-occurring or "more pronounced" during cooler days and / or during the time frame of the first t-stat cooling exchange.
Visual / feel symptoms-- The tachometer drops to zero rpm, all other gauges remain online and within normal visual expectations. The symptom can be "forced to happen" if extra heavy loads are added to the alternator such as hi-beams. This may be misleading because the key is still on so if the EEC shuts down, the coil will loose its ref ground yet other cluster items will still be powered "on" since the Alt is getting input signal and producing voltage because the belt is spinning. the overall misleading affect is that the Tach is the only thing that reacts during the event.
We are into researching what the issue is for nearly all of 2019. the car is a daily driver and is my son's car which with work and little time off, it limits progress but slowly we eliminate probable faults.................
Troubleshooting--- pulled codes,,,, we had .... 18 - gone now that tfi harness is fixed 91 & 95 - still remains
after codes are dumped, we proceed with cylinder balance test and passed.
We found that if with the most lightest of touch, if you moved the TFI harness, the symptom occurs............. >> purchased from LMR a TFI harness repair kit and retested. replacement of the above did not cure the issue.
Replaced Dizzy as a whole kit from one of the box stores...... did not fix the issue.
-did fuel pres test while driving and gauge taped to windshield.. pres was low"ish" during low RPM's and around high"ish" during high rpm's like 40 or so. -kept fuel pres tester connected while the car was off and parked, several hours later the pressure finally arrived at zero... like 7 hours or more.
we began to shotgun troubleshoot,, cause really we dont know here else to go other than REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP which has not been done yet.
we replaced the dizzy, dizzy harness, coil, plugs, wires, ECT, ACT, Alternator, Battery, Ign sw, i ign sw harness from LMR, O2 sensors, replaced EEC capacitors, EEC relay, added grounds to the engine bay, cleaned the MAF,
we are looking at replacing the EEC and the fuel pump next up.
I have recommended to Mason (my son the owner whom is out of state), to do the following ..... Pull every friggin fuse not required to make the car run and retest. Even if this means he has to drive with emergency flashers on as a safety step on public roads. If we are lucky enough to find the symptom is gone, this lets us insert fuses back into the car until the issue comes back which then tells us which ckt is a probable fault. if the symptom remains, it tells us what remaining ckts to focus on.
I think i asked this question nearly a decade ago,,, i cant remember the answer......
page 42- 3.8L start / IGN = near C403 there is a circuit ID #16 which is red/lt green. what purpose does this wire serve? page 43- 5.0L start / IGN = circuit ID #16 red/light green, what purpose does fuse link "P" serve?
in both instances what i am trying to understand is.... you have a jumper "wire" bypassing another "wire".??????