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Messages - ipsd

16
Engine Tech / 130Amp 3G alternator into 87 3.8L How you do it! Bracket with pics.
Well I got back on my bracket today for this 3G upgrade.  I started out with some poster board/old food box. I had thought previously that I could make a one piece bracket but I wasn't using my head so I had to make a two piece unit so things would line up to bolt in. Here are a some pics of how I got things going.

I cut out the poster board and made my design.

Grabbed a piece of 1/4" plate I had in shop.

Cut out the basic shape of my design.

Put my pattern on my rough cut parts so I could re-trace design outline so I could shape the pieces to fit and look some what factory.


Kinda missed a few pic in my working but they are simple ones. In this pic you can see how I used vice grips to hold the pieces in the correct position. I then drilled two holes and used two aluminum rivets to further keep everything lined up nice and tight. While still using the vice grips to help and hold the part while drilling and finish grinding.



Still not completely finished with this but those are the so far pics. As you can see it is bolted in. So far just the rivets are holding the two pieces together. Welding together in next couple of days. Then the nut on the front side of the bracket at the alt ,and the one on the rear side of the bracket I made where it bolts on the car. Those both will be welded on. Then I will grind and finish the welds and give it nice coating of black paint. I will get pics of the in between and finished unit. What do you guys think so far? Was thinking about cutting and bending a support piece for the back side of the bracket for added strength? Hope this helps and maybe even motives others.

Thanks for looking
Stuckman
17
Engine Tech / I cant figure this out
Have you run codes also did you clear/reset the ecu before you installed and tried the new TPS?  I would also say it kinda sounds like your O2 sensor heater may have gone bad. Run it for a mile and half and it gets heated up to operating temp, then things run great. Then when it sit for 30min or more the O2 sensor has cooled back down, maybe not fully but sure it not up to operating temp. O2 sensor part might be fine prob just the heater portion not working. With the info at hand that is the best I got for ya

Hope this helps
Stuckman
18
Engine Tech / The question of the century??
Well I'm not a professional engine builder and only build engines for myself. So the saving time of cutting corners in the way that I was shown to do things I JUST DON'T DO. Not so sure how you guys do your stuff but this is a little insight in to how I do things. Once I get the parts back from the machine shop its time to get cleaning. Not to sure how those little particles would be in there. I've always cleaned and cleaned and cleaned. I start out with fresh roll of paper towels coat the  towel with clean oil and clean each cylinder until when  I go over it get  I nothing but a clean white paper towel . We're not talking a 5min job here were talking working each cylinder over and over and over and over until all the left overs from the machining process are gone. This takes time and that seems to be the thing that most don't want to spend. Now if I was dealing with a remaned unit or one someone else built I would have to agree with you TOM.

Hope that helps clear things up.
Stuckman
19
Engine Tech / 3.8L V6 oil level sender leak
I did this on an 86 2.3t motor I got from a yard. I just bought me an oil plug and put that in there. Found out later my 84 does have the light in the dash for LOW OIL so I could have used it.  Don't remember the thread size and pitch. That was like 8yrs ago. If it is just leaking why not just head to parts store and gove the the oil drain plugs/gaskets and find a new one that will fit your sensor.

Hope that help
Stuckman
20
Engine Tech / The question of the century??
I use NON detergent oil for initial break in. I run the car up to about 30mph then speed up to about 55mph all while in 5th gear 8-10 times. Then I drain and change in to Regular oil run that about 500 miles then drain and fill with standard Rotella 15w40. I always make sure to put about 10,000 miles before I switch to syn oil, that is if the application I'm working with can handle the lack of zinc. I know running my 1st 2.3T I ran syn had problems spiting out the followers. After several telling me and lots of research backing them up, the syn oil lacked the zinc I needed for the cam and followers. So since then been running just reg rotella 15w40

Just how I do things
Stuckman
21
Drivetrain Tech / Need information to replace rear diff
Or you can find a couple of ranger/aerostars in Junk yard and pull both the long side axle's  from both vehicles. Take those home slide those into your housing. Now if your doing this might want to upgrade to the bigger rear drums from the ranger. you would need that backing plates and all other part to make sure you aren't missing things. Sometimes its easiest to keep the housing you have.

hope that helps
Stuckman
22
Electrical Tech / Power Window Motors / Door Locks
if your hearing a click sound I would pull the motor.  Then the part with the gear on it pull that apart. like 3 bolts. Then once apart inspect the gear. The small gear meats up with regulator on car. There is a Bigger gear inside. The big gear and little gear are held together with  3 round hard solid plastic fillers . Those things can break and then things inside shifts and just binds up the motor. Not sure about over there but here we can buy the little plastic things, or a new gear set with those plastic and such already put together, or we can buy a re-maned window motor.  So if the switch  checks out tell you to check that. I will say when I sold auto parts most of the time it was those little plastic piece got old and broke.

hope that helps
Stuckman
23
Engine Tech / 130Amp 3G alternator into 87 3.8L How you do it! Bracket with pics.
hell even the 1G to 3G swaps are simple. If you look at regulator on the 3g it has the same I.S.A as on the external regulator. Not sure about you but matching letter wire to matching letter wire is simple.  Haven't got my bracket fully done. but so far got it cut out and just about ready thinking need to weld it together and slap it in there maybe some finsih work so it don't look like my hillbilly ass made it! LOL

Thanks just trying to help others with the things I'm doing
Stuckman
24
Misc Tech / Interior repairs
From what I've got to go on I would have to say epoxy, nuts ,bolts, washers, U/J nuts think they are call you know that U shaped metal piece that slides over a sheet metal panel and has some form of threads for a screw/bolt in the side. Now with some good pics might be able to give better ideas!

Hope this helps
Stuckman
25
Misc Tech / A.c
Not sure how bad it is to do that. I know they have it kick off to give you that lil bit of extra power your wide open you wanna go not be cool! Other than that I have no idea! As far as idle just have to set carb to idle higher so it don't drag the motor down to much when you turn on the A/c not a big deal.

Stuckman
26
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars WANTED / WTB Keys and locks (ASAP) and few other things
Do they not have locksmiths where you are at? I had the door lock problem when I first got my 84 T/c. Not sure about the 85's but 84's have one key for doors and a different one for the ignition. All I did was take a door lock out and brought it to a locksmith. He made me a key to work it. Took my new keys home and they worked both doors, the trunk and glove box. Now with being where you are not sure about getting parts without paying tons for shipping and the like. So I would tell you should be able to do the same thing with the ignition lock. If you lived here in the states I would tell you can buy all that stuff at your local parts store.

Hope that helps out
Stuckman
27
Misc Tech / Interior repairs
1. The door armrest you can by new clips at the parts store/dealer. Now don't just walk in a go the the clips and look prob gonna have to head to the parts guy and have him break out the book and match them up by picture. The ones that comes to mind for me are those metal wires ones that are kinda arrow head shaped. I've gotten them from the parts store before. As far as the cover coming off the armrest depending on what you want it to look like. I say get you some spray glue really strong stuff(headliner type) and some other stuff like hot glue  or the like to hold the underside edges.

2.What you need for the dash is what they call a dashcap. I haven't looked at them in some time but last time I checked they were running about $100-$150. This is just a cover that you trim to fit over your current dash board.

3. Seat belts not sure about this one. When I start having your problem I head to the s yard and get me good workable units. Just about any older ford units will work and prob even some chevy and dodge units too.

4.Shift  boot I have been told you can get them on Ebay pretty cheap but being as I like to play with leather I made my own. Looks like this:

5. Rattles these are pretty easy to fix. Most of the time things just work them self loose form all the shaking of going down the road. Get in there and go over all the screws/bolts/nuts give them a nice tightening. Then to cure your dash panel problems get you some thin sheet aluminum and glue that to the back side of the offending panel. then remake your own screw holes in the aluminum. You can use just about any metal just aluminum is very easy to work.

Hope that helps
Stuckman
28
Misc Tech / A.c
It is not to hard haven't done what your asking but it should work like this. The main A/c compressor clutch wires come from the back of the control unit in the dash. Should be something close to this with either setup manual or electronic. Then once you get that wire into the engine bay you would need to work in the A/c compressor relay. Now this one gets wired to the low pressure switch. This need to be hooked up to where when the low pressure switch shows no/to low pressure it makes the compressor relay stay open(compressor not kicking in). Then the next relay has to do with Wide open throttle it needs to be wired in, like the other relay only wire it to the TPS so that once you show wide open throttle it cuts out the A/c compressor.Also you would need to get signal to the ECU letting it know you have turned on the A/c  so it knows to idle up and turn on the fan/fans out front so you don't over heat and it keeps you cool.  I know just telling and not showing what I would recommend is get you a wiring diagram for the A/c system and look that over it should be rather simple to get this back into you car. Maybe some work but not to hard.

Hoping to help
Stuckman
29
Misc Tech / A/c gets warm at times?
First off let me Thank Everyone for there input.

I am aware of the need to use less of replacement refrigerants than what it had for the original R12. So Yes I should go back out there when its hot hot and keep gauges on it watch the pressures. Yes I did pump the system down when I got it all working last year. I own a robin air Vac pump so I hooked it up and ran it for 1.5hr. I never really get less air from the vents just it starts getting warmer as you can tell the A/c isn't on.  Yes I'm using off branded freeze 12 not R12 or R134a.I've used freeze12 in 20 or more r12 systems it has done great for mine and others, and yes I did  attach the fittings and labels on there cars. It is a good works better in R12 than r134 from my personal experience. I don't have a problem with it and I can find it. I don't have the lic to get hands on real R12,or R22. I have a couple of buddies in the HVAC business and had them give me there opinion on the stuff before I used it. They both told me should work great. Take that I do all my own work and by installing the Freeze12 fittings and labels on the cars that should tell all the system doesn't have there recoverable refrigerant in the car.  Purge the system and start over ONLY as a LAST RESORT. I don't worry about wrecking pro service guys/gals recovery machines plain and simple "I don't ever ever ever go there for them to work on my stuff". only time I take any of my autos to a shop is if I'm outta town. I do all my own work I even do work for several other of my friends and family. I worked in auto shops and parts stores and been all around cars/trucks. So flylear45 I plan working through the first part of your post. Get it to stop working and test clutch coil wires like you said. Thanks again guys for all the help and ideas.

Thanks for lookin
Stuckman
30
Lounge / OK how about this
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;394279
Haha! we need a like button! lol!!

Maybe you need to go back to FACEBOOK!!!! ROFL

stuckman