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Topic: M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts (Read 2562 times) previous topic - next topic

M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts

While I did torque the ball joint nut that came with the Ford M-3075-D control arm, I discovered today the nut came off somewhere.  :hick:  Probably should have retorqued after the first 100  miles...

I didn't like the nut that came with this new arm in the first place, instead of the metal pin to make sure the nut could never fall off, the new nut has some plastic in it.  I guess the theory is the plastic crushes and keeps the nut captive?

Well, it didn't work for me.  and the nut from the old arm has different threads. 

Has anybody found a better nut (with the cotter pin) to replace the nut that comes with the arms?  Does any nut from 94-00 Mustangs work on this M-3075D Ford Racing Control Arm?


V6->V8HO 88 LS
5.0L V8 87 XR7

Re: M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts

Reply #1
Quote from: bondocougar
While I did torque the ball joint nut that came with the Ford M-3075-D control arm, I discovered today the nut came off somewhere.  :hick:  Probably should have retorqued after the first 100  miles...

I didn't like the nut that came with this new arm in the first place, instead of the metal pin to make sure the nut could never fall off, the new nut has some plastic in it.  I guess the theory is the plastic crushes and keeps the nut captive?

Well, it didn't work for me.  and the nut from the old arm has different threads. 

Has anybody found a better nut (with the cotter pin) to replace the nut that comes with the arms?  Does any nut from 94-00 Mustangs work on this M-3075D Ford Racing Control Arm?


Bummer - I haven't installed mine yet - thanks for the heads up anyway. Not sure about locating a castle nut for that application. Any impression of these arms BTW? I'm converting to 11" front rotors at the same time I'm changing arms - haven't had time to do this yet...
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

Re: M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts

Reply #2
wow..awesome. i had just stumbled upon these arms the other day and they realy cought my eye. i didnt know anyone was useing them...thought most guys were using the 3075-A arms. the D a arms are from an 03 cobra...how was the fitment? i intend on picking up a set very soon here. i wanted to go with those cause of the approx 10% in turn radius and the stiffer bushings. i assume they leave a little more clearance for wider wheels?...how do they ride, fit and how was the install...? thanks for your time...john
:america: 1988 Thunderbird Sport, Former 4.6 DOHC T56 conversion project.

Rest of the country, Welcome to Massachusettes. Enjoy your stay.

 
Halfbreed... Mango Orange Y2K Mustang GT
FRPP complete 2000 Cobra engine swap, T56 n' junk...
~John~

Re: M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts

Reply #3
Quote
While I did torque the ball joint nut that came with the Ford M-3075-D control arm, I discovered today the nut came off somewhere.
The joint didn't pop out of the spindle? The wheel/strut didn't flip up, ripping the fender to shreds? The arm didn't snap down, dig into the ground, and flip your car onto the roof while driving 80mph on the freeway?  I think your guardian angel deserves a bigger Christmas bonus this year.
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

Re: M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts

Reply #4
Quote from: MasterBlaster
The joint didn't pop out of the spindle? The wheel/strut didn't flip up, ripping the fender to shreds? The arm didn't snap down, dig into the ground, and flip your car onto the roof while driving 80mph on the freeway?  I think your guardian angel deserves a bigger Christmas bonus this year.


I was wondering about that sort of thing myself - nice vivid descriptions BTW :D
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

Re: M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts

Reply #5
I cant imagine a ball joint stud not having come with a castle nut and cotter pin. Anyway, if your only option ends up being the use of a nyloc nut use red Loctite 272. It wont come off... ever.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
86 5.0 Turbocoupe (Katrina), 87 5.0 Sport (Rita)

Re: M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts

Reply #6
I've never had any issues using the nyloc nuts on the ball joints......
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo

Re: M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts

Reply #7
MasterBlaster
Quote
The joint didn't pop out of the spindle?


I did a tight slow turn into a parking space, and the instance of the turn I heard a lound thunk.  No nut anywhere, so I can only imagine my 7 mile trip at 60 MPH with only moderate turns gravity kept things together.

-  For about a week, I had felt a very subtle variation in braking coming from the front, almost as if someone taped the brake pedal as your foot is pressing down.

-  I had front end noise over bumps, but couldn't trace it and my next step was to lift the front end and see if the swaybar/mounts had some sort of issue.  jcassity made a comment in some unrelated post that squeeks are okay, but thunks are dangerous, and that quote has been in my mind ever since I read it.  But I guess I know what the noise is now  :disappoin

The spindle is still partially seated on the joint, although its not lined in straight and doesn't go thru enough to put a nut on.  I thought the loud noise was a brake caliper cracking or wheel bearing trouble.  I jacked it up just enough to tug on the tire and  too many things moved when I pulled on the tire.  I couldn't believe it when I saw how catastrophic a failure it was.  :disappoin


When I get the new nut I will put a jack under the coil spring pocket and bring it up so hopefully it will seat in so I can get the nut on.  Any dangerous warnings with this idea????  The sway bar is still attached to the control arm, which probably kept a total disaster from happening.
 
If the spindel falls off the ball joint, I guess there is a risk the spring could pop out, so maybe I'll bring the chains to lock it in the hole.

Another thought is just to get it towed to a shop, but I don't want it to get damaged when its getting pulled up a ramp for the tow.

Chuck W     
Quote
I've never had any issues using the nyloc nuts on the ball joints......

What the heck did I do wrong?  I torqued the damn nut to specs.  Only thing I'd do different next time is recheck them after driving.  Any other hints, aside from lok-tite???

I took the car to a shop after my installs and asked them to "check things over".  But thats like asking someone to briefly look over the Space Shuttle to see if its good for flight - just too many things to check.  So if I get it rolling again this time I'm going to tell them to specifically torque the A Arm mounting bolts, the ball joint bolts, steering rack bolts, and check the alignment.  I don't trust myself after this one, not that I ever fully did :rolleyes: .  This was the first time I've ever tackled a car project (V6-V8 conversion, new rear end...)

shame302
Quote
how do they ride, fit and how was the install..

Had no other install problems putting the 3075-D on the car.  Its too early to comment on the ride, but the car feels much stiffer than stock, but I also did the poly spring bushings, so its hard to tell what has improved from just the control arm. It seems to harsh sometimes, but this comment is coming from someone who obviously had a nut loose  :crazy:


V6->V8HO 88 LS
5.0L V8 87 XR7

Re: M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts

Reply #8
No other tricks...just try the locktite and torque them down.

You should be able to just do as you mentioned and use a jack under the control arm to get the ball joint stud back up in place...however, you might have buggered the threads on the ball joint...
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo

Re: M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts

Reply #9
Got the nut back on with only about 2 threads & had it towed to a shop.  I'm getting a better memory now..

1) I don't think I did torque these things, but wrenched them on with the best I could do.  I remember now I couldn't get my torque ratchet in there because the strut was in the way.  Stupid is as stupid does.  :mad:

2) These are M-3075-D control arms, but I am using a spindle from a 92 Mustang GT.  I wonder if the 92 Spindle is thicker than the spindle that goes with a 99 Mustang???  Anyone know?

Then the nylock nut wouldn't have enough threads to effectively lock.  Here is a pic, the stud is just to the top of the nut.



V6->V8HO 88 LS
5.0L V8 87 XR7

Re: M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts

Reply #10
A Ha!  Pics helped.

Yes, the Fox spindle is thincker than the SN-95 one...but about 5/16"....so yeah, you probably don't have enough ball joint stud to fit all the way through and have enough threads to engage the nyloc insert in the nut.
THAT is you problem. 
You will either have to use some heavy-duty loctite, or swap in Fox-style ball joints...or swap to SN-95 spindles/brakes...

Took a sec for this all to click...The SN-95 ball joint stud is shorter than the Fox because of the thickness difference.  You can use a SN-95 spindle on a Fox ball joint no problem, but not the other way around....
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo

M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts

Reply #11
Just to document the conclusion of this thread I started a while back:

:nono: I used the SN95 M-3075-D control arm onto an 88 LS Coug, but used 92 Mustang Fox spindles to do the 11" brake conversion.  The ball joint that comes with this new control arm is not long enough to allow the ball joint nylock nut to seat & lock when using the old Fox style spindle, creating the potential hazard of having the nut pop off, then the spindle, etc.... It happened to me, but fortunately in the parking lot :nono:

The way I fixed my problem was to pop the ball joints that came with the M3075-D control arm out and replace them with stock Fox 88 year ball joints.  The diameter is the same and they fit right into the new control arm, and life is good again.

Obviously there are other solutions, ie replace the spindle with an SN95 set-up, but that road avalanches to more costs, ie 5 lug conversion etc...  But I still do feel better having the Fox balljoints  with the old fashioned castle nut with locking cotter pin as opposed to those stupid plastic nylok nuts ;)

Thanks again to everyone for helping me figure out the errors of my ways, and the solution...:bowdown: :bowdown:


V6->V8HO 88 LS
5.0L V8 87 XR7

Re: M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts

Reply #12
Couldn't I just grind a bit off the Fox spindle to gain that bit of extra thread engagement from the SN95 ball joint?
Mike

Re: M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts

Reply #13
Couldn't I just grind a bit off the Fox spindle to gain that bit of extra thread engagement from the SN95 ball joint?

Sure. Cougar 5.0 did that when he installed the arms on his car. Machined some of the spindle where the nut sits and it was fine. It's in one of his threads somewhere on here.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Re: M-3075-D Control Arm Ball Joint Nuts

Reply #14


Yes. It can be done. To be done properly, it needs to be done by a machine shop, and even then, it's a pain.
It's Gumby's fault.